Immediately after putting new tires on my '02 Taurus SES, steering is really hard at the pullout, or turning at slow speed just after startup. After several seconds, steering is back to normal. I did have the steering pump flushed out with new fluid several months ago, and fluid is up to level now.
View 6 Replies2007 G6 Problem occurs at slow speed with sharp turning, such as coming out or into the driveway. As the steering rack moves slowly it tends to stick and release 3 or 4 times when turning sharply at very slow speed. It makes a sound so loud even the passenger cam hear it and the driver can feel it in the steering wheel. Does occur while driving normally. The dealer says its a GM problem with no real correction. They greased the rack and said the problem would return soon, but it is not a safety problem. So far they have been right on both counts. Are there any real cures?
View 5 Replies1999 Ford Taurus V6 DOHC Battle Wagon. It will not start. It is barely turning over so I started with the battery. Battery is good so I then cleaned all connections to the starter with no change. Still turning over but only barely. Took the starter off and had it tested at O'Reilly's and the starter is also good according to them. I guess my next step would be to start replacing the wiring from battery to starter? After that I am not too sure on a direction to go. On a side note, my cousin did not think it was very funny when I told him that the title was already signed and that it was his problem now.
View 4 Replies6L w/automatic trans,no tunes,no mods. Fan doesn't speed up when ac is turned on. I checked connector at fan shroud and #25 10a fuse and wanted to see if there's anything else I can do or check before taking it to dealer. I haven't towed heavy since I noticed ac not cooling at idle but last time I did tow the fan ramped up on hills and stop and go. I'm in Texas so I must get this right asap. I heard of some with manual override so I would like to do that as well but also heard rumors the override can damage pcm. Any manual override?
View 8 RepliesI've gotten it a couple of times lately while turning at slow speed. The first guess is always the CV joint/boot - but wouldn't that be multiple pops?
View 12 RepliesSo, I just noticed this happening about a month ago and it's been occurring more frequently. Whenever I'm turning (left or right) and moving at a very slow speed (1 - 5mph), I feel a binding and sometimes I hear a slipping sound (that's the best that I can describe it). When I hear this sound, it feels like the Touareg's gears or center differential is slipping. What it is? If so, was the dealer able to resolve it quickly?
View 5 RepliesNoticed the front suspension makes some "flexing" noises when turning the wheel during slow speed maneuvers? (e.g. during parallel parking). The best way I can describe it is it sounds like the suspension is being compressed as I turn the wheel as the car has almost come to a complete stop. (yes I know we should avoid turning the wheel when stationary). I realize it's probably normal. I'll just add it to the list of other noises my car likes to make. My car is bone stock btw.
View 2 RepliesI have the same clunk others have suggested may be strut mounts or something. It only happens when I'm turning hard left and going slow. it may happen only when I'm going slow because it's the only time i turn the wheel that much. it's not too loud and sounds like it's coming from the right front wheel well, somewhere around there.
It started about 3 days ago and is getting much more frequent in the last day. It now is happening every time i turn the wheel hard left, and occasionally when I turn right.I have a loose bumper right front also. it's going into the body shop next week to further diagnose by elimination.
QUESTION: is the car safe to drive if there's the possibility of a loose strut mount? i don't know too much about the suspension assembly.
Getting a creak sounds like near struts at slow speeds and turning , it stopped when it got cold, but on the first warm day today its back . I did replace the struts, bearings and seats, but have to admit I used the cheapos . I just cant find where its creaking from...
View 2 RepliesI'm on my second A1 Cardone rack & pinion in six months. The first one had bad outer tie rod ends and this one is very hard to turn at slow speed like pulling out of a parking space. I would highly recommend using a ACDelco rack & pinion.
View 5 RepliesI recently bought an'08 Base model. It is making a creaking noise in the front end on the left side either behind the wheel or under the motor. It only does it when taking off from a stop and/or turning mainly to the right during slow speed, seems to be when the body weight is shifting. To me it sounds as though something needs greased or maybe a strut.
View 2 RepliesMazda5; 2010; 105,000 miles.
Recently, our Mazda has started making a subdued grinding sound. It happens only when accelerating from idling to 10 miles per hour. It does not occur over 10 mph, in neutral, or park. It doesn't happen when starting the car or in reverse either. according to my wife, it does happens when turning right at slow speeds, but not left.
We have just driven it to our mechanic but it may take a couple days before they are able to look at it.
I own a 2009 VW tiguan 2TSI 4WD. Lately i am experiencing undercarriage low tone grinding noise as i made turns at slow speed. i am not sure if the noise is coming from the rear or front. Why and what should i do about it.
View 3 RepliesI purchased my .:R last summer with just over 100k miles on it. Two prior owners, car was fully stock and in great condition except for one thing:
Humming/vibration ("brrrrr" sound) coming from the back of the car when turning at a slow speed with the wheel fully cranked, e.g. moving out of a parking spot. It only occurs when moving, and with the wheel fully or almost fully turned in one direction.
The guy I purchased it from brought it to a local VW dealership when he noticed this and they (obviously) did not find anything wrong with the car, and blamed it on the tire wear.
So I changed all four tires. Still made the noise.
Haldex oil had been changed by the original owner but not by the second owner (who owned the car for two years prior to my purchase). So I had the Haldex oil changed and my mechanic said it was dirty AND at a low level, and might be the source of this problem. The noise did diminish for a bit, but it is still present.
So, I'm afraid my transmission or differential are fried from running on too little oil. It does not affect anything but it is definitely worrying me.
i have a Subaru legacy rs 1996 twin turbo, about 6 months ago now i replaced both front outer CV joints and boots due to a grinding when turning at slow speed e.g a car park. the grinding had gone and its was all fine until now the same grinding as come back. its it normal for the CV joint to wear out that fast or could there be a different problem?
View 5 RepliesSo yet I found out about another common issue but not that publicized. This is the grinding sound when turning at full lock (left or right) in slow speed. I've read several people in the forum who has encountered this. I read different remedies but the most common one is to have the CV boots lubricated.
I have a 2014 Wolfsburg with almost 5k miles. I am really now worrying about my water pump crapping out on me but I heard this grinding sound yesterday.
My brother has a '99.5 with about 130k on it. It's extremely slow to startup even the the starter is spinning it over pretty quickly. I pulled my Edge CTS out of my truck to get some #'s off of his. At idle mine has about 700+ ICP, his has about 480. My IPR is about 14%, his is about 10%. The only other obvious things noticeable is that his oil pressure gauge takes 3+ solid seconds before it comes up. Once it's running, it's seems normal and ICP & IPR match mine under full acceleration. The only other thing that is odd, while cranking his volts drop to mid 10's but isn't turning over slow. Where to start?
View 6 RepliesSaturday while moving some items for the inlaws my truck, while moving at slow speed, reduced power to the point where it almost stalled, anti lock brakes were growling, right rear tire was dragging the brakes skidding the tire. maybe ten seconds then ran normal. got to stop sign and made a right turn and at about 30 mph started doing the same on and off for maybe 30 seconds. All the time Advance Track light blinking 3 times then pause, and repeating.
Stopped in a parking lot for a couple mins, did not shut off but drove the rest of the way home normally. At home we could smell brakes cooking, right rear brake disk was very hot. Drove to dealer Sunday morn with Advance Track over-ridden and ran normal. What would happen at highway speeds or towing my fiver? Bet they cant reproduce the prob, left no code etc. You know what that means.... I will update later.
I have a 1991 F250 Lariat, 4x4, 460 engine, auto trans. I am having trouble with my steering. The power stering turns good to the left but when I turn to the right it is like there is no power and is very tough to turn.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2001 Toyota Echo which developed severe vibration feedback to the steering wheel when the car was driven at low speed or stopped at a traffic sign or signal.
I took the car to the Toyota dealer and they checked the brakes, replaced the front rotors. They also checked the fuel pump and other engine components. The spark plugs and PCV vale were replaced, as well as the crank seal.
When I left the garage, the vibration reappeared after driving about five minutes. I immediately went back to the garage and waited while the mechanic checked the car. He came to the waiting room and said I would not believe what they found. I went to the garage with him and the hood on the car was raised. He started the car and there was no unusual vibration.
He closed the hood and the vibration started again. The problem was that the underhood reinforcement panel had come unwelded (or unglued) and it was vibrating. A mechanic came from the body shop and put a sealer/filler at the loose spots, we let the car sit for a while, the mechanic said the sealer/filler would expand to close the gap, and I drove the car home. The vibration had stopped.
I have a 2009 screw with ~60k miles. It is used for DD and tows our small camper or my flat deck w/jeep.
The other day I noticed an issue when turning right. The wheel gets hard to turn and does not want to return to center. There is also a low speed clunk you can feel in the steering wheel/column itself.
The truck is at the dealer now and they said the rack needs to be replaced and there is something in the column they need to replace too. I have the extended warranty, so this is all but covered 100%. I just have a deductible to pay.
I have not hit anything with the truck, so I am not sure what caused these issues.