Ford - Taurus :: Checked Back Brake Drums Now Feel Tire Wobble Around 20+ Mph
Dec 18, 2012
I had reason to believe that my back brakes needed replacing. While I was at it, I also attempted to swap out my front rotors, but was stopped when I was unable to remove my front brake calipers. All in all, I essentially did nothing. I checked the back brake drums and put those tires back on and then took front tires off and put them back on. I woke up today to drive to work, and and after getting about a mile down the road and going about 30-35 mph I noticed my wobble. It seemed to be coming from the front, but still hard to be sure. I know my rotors are a little warped, but I usually always experience that when braking, not when just coasting or accelerating. What to check on, or what I could have done? If it makes any difference, I am driving a 2002 Ford Taurus.
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Did a complete rear brake job on a 90 Ranger including a pair of Pronto brake drums. Here are some videos of the problem.
Wheel and tire with new brake drum. Bad wobble.
Wheel and tire with brake drum - YouTube
Wheel and tire installed without brake drum. No wobble.
Wheel and tire without brake drum - YouTube
Brake drum only. Bad wobble
Brake drum - YouTube
Bare axle. No wobble.
Bare axle - YouTube
So is it safe to conclude the brake drum is bad? The other side is worse. I cleaned the axle surface so its flat. Wheels and tires are new.
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My 2002 SC430 is driven 2 -3 times week and has 30K on it. January '08 I replaced run-flats with high-end non-RF Michelins sugg'd here. Ever since, tires have lost pressure. So far, I was told front pass. rim (orig. factory chrome) had a crack, that was fixed, but tire still loses pressure. Rear Driver's tire supposedly punctured at 2 weeks & replaced..but still loses pressure. All tires & wheels were checked & rotated, now 2 still leak in new positions.
According to Dealership & Tire place familiar with SC430's, my Valve stems and sensors are fine (TPMS works fine), tires are good, rims aren't cracked, but tires go soft. Yesterday a Tire place that does only Lexus & Toyota just told me "invisible corrosion" on rims makes moisture collect where tires seal to rims and this causes slow leak!?
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My 2003 Ford Taurus vibrates when I am going between 60-80. Before and after those speeds it is fine. I read an article from Tom and Ray in my local paper that instructed to do a couple things to see what it could be. I cut out the article and have never seen it again! One step was to drive on the freeway and take your foot off the gas to see if the vibration stopped. If it did, such and such was the problem, etc. I think another thing to try was put it in N.
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I had new tyres put on my 2002 Accent 1.5 CDX a few weeks ago, they are 175/70 R 13 and i have Genuine Hyundai Alloy wheels. Over the past few days, Ive noticed a bad wobble that i can feel through the steering wheel, but seems to come from the rear of the car, although it could come from the front, as the car seems to wander around on the road, but going along at 50 mph and taking my hand off the wheel for a second or two it doesn't pull either way, you can just see the steering wheel visible moving from left to right and back again!!!!!
I changed the back wheels to the front and vice versa, and the problem went away, for 24 hours and came back again!!!! This wobble is getting worse, I've had the wheels balanced, rims seem ok, suspension checked, etc and all fine. The only thing I am not sure about is worn track rod ends, and I am not sure what to look for this wobble is at its worse between 30 and 55 mph, but it can be felt on any road (from starting off) and at any speed.
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Gen 5.5 (2006 LE (57K miles), Rear brake drums and parking brake.
I want to get my parking brake lubricated and rear drums cleaned and adjusted. Is is difficult to lubricate the parking brake?
I plan on getting this done with a Mobile One oil change at a local garage.
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I have A 97 F-150 4X4 with rear drums. I noticed the brakes felt like they weren't releasing right away after i let of the brake pedal. i took drums off and noticed on the left rear the front shoe moved normal but the rear shoe didn't move at all. on the right side front shoe moves normal rear shoe very very slow, and i could see rear shoe was worn way more than front. So I replaced on both rear the shoes, all the hardware, springs, wheel cylinders and brake line from cylinders to the proportioning valve.bleed the brakes, and adjusted the drag on the drums. Now i drive it, test it out, feels like the same issue is going on. feels like im driving with the brake on, and right rear gets really hot. Did i miss something? not do something right?
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My c is about 5 12 months old now, and the rear brake drums are already covered in rust.
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I recently put new wheels on my 2012 (more open spoke than stock ones), very soon started to notice the brake drums getting rusty. Is there anything I can do to 1) get rid of that and 2) stop it from happening? It's really killing the look of the new wheels. (The wheels themselves are spotted right now from sprinklers this morning.)
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Brake rear drums overheating on My LC 80 series '90 GX model has been having reoccurring left side rear overheating after driving for 2-3 hours in traffic. It has been worked on many times since the lastest attempt both sides heated to about 100-110+F on the rim with the right one the hotter. The wheel cylinders have been replaced, the brake shoes, bearings and seals on the left side in the hub with the springs, self adjuster and cable in the drum, the front disc pads also. There has been some engineering: welding on the lh rear axle diff tube which was done. The problem stressed out the last mechanic. He wants to replace the master cylinder next. Remove self-adjuster mechanisms is it a possible fix?
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I have a 2010 f150 supercrew 4x4 with 8.8 3:55 nls rear differential. my driver side tire has a wobble to it it is wearing the inside of the tire. i have replaced the driver axle shaft with new ford oem shaft put in new axle bearings and seals on both sides and have replaced the spyder gears and i still have the wobble I don't know what is going on. the wobble is more pronounced when the tire and rim are bolted to the shaft only without the drum and caliper attached. with caliper and rotor attached i still have the wobble just not as bad however the tire wobbles going down the road more noticeable between 20-45 mph.
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I have a 1993 f150. Problem is that the steering wheel can wobble back and forth about a half inch or so. I took the wheel off and it looks like there is a lock ring holding everything in place. I just wondered if there was a solution to this to fix it
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I don't know whats wrong, last night i was driving and all of a sudden the car started to feel like it had a flat tire. The music was loud so i was sure...i pulled over and sudden my cel starts flashing. I turned the car off looked under the hood and couldn't see much (it was dark) i turned it back on and the same thing, when i accelerate there is a loud noise that seems to come from under my seat as well as a sort of stutter/putting like right before your stall out in a manual car.
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I own a stock 2010 golf with 22k miles on it. There seems to be a problem with brake feel. Brake pedal feels way too soft and there is way too much pedal travel for brakes to engage. Car won't start decelerating until pedal is pushed nearly 1/2 of its total travel length. However there seems no problem with stopping the car. On hard braking car stops well (with ABS). Another problem is brake feel isn't linear.
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I've had my new Camry a week now with Michelins on them and I feel every crack and bump in the road. Cold pressure they read 33psi. Do these tires need to be "broken in"? .What are you all running? The door label says 35 but that seems high to me.
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I have a Venture with a steadily-worsening vibration problem which is always worse at the front passenger side. The vibration is not the growly rumble I remember from the bad bearings I replaced 3 years ago. It's more like the thudding feel of an out-of-balance tire, but the tires are relatively new and have been rotated and balanced since purchase and since I noticed the problem. The vibration shows mainly from 45-55 mph, but not if coasting. It's only when the engine is under load that I feel it. It occurs when the gear select is in D or 3. At any other speed it is not as bad, but if I get on the gas, the vibration becomes worse. Revving the engine in park or neutral reveals no abnormal vibration.
I jacked up the van and rotated the tires again and checked for any play in the bearings or loose mounting bolts - nothing obvious there. I did notice on the passenger side of the engine, around the inboard CV joint, a spray of thick axle/moly grease, like one would find inside a CV boot, as if the boot has a small hole in it, but the CV joint does not grind or make any typical noise on sharp turn.
My list of guesses include: motor mounts, tranny mounts, bad bearing/hub, bad half shaft/CV joint, tranny going bad, bad bearing in engine.
History/details: 2004 Venture LS long wheelbase. 160,000 miles. Goodyear Viva 2 tires. Front bearings have been replaced as a set once, driver side again since then, when the ABS sensor went bad. Sometimes when I put it into drive and turn sharply to the left, traction control turns on momentarily. The tranny has begun to slip and grab on a coast-to-stop followed by sudden acceleration.
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I have a 2000 taurus and I have been having trouble with my power steering. Its leaking badly & from where I see it is Leaking is under the car on the passenger side by the tire. Also essentially the taurus power steering runs on transmission fluid so could it be a practical idea to use trans stop & sea to slow the leakage til I get to a mechanic?
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My 2003 shakes/jerks back and forth at 55 mph. Took to a mechanic, they found nothing...car did not jerk. Check engine light on (although it has been on for years)... Checked transmission codes and found nothing...could be oxygen sensor?
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My 2014 F-350 SRW always seemed to have spongy feeling brakes since day one and the e-brake has never been set-up to be very tight. Even though my truck has less than 25,000 miles on it, I'm half tempted to power bleed brakes to try to get a better brake pedal. All I know is that if I press the brake pedal on my '82 F-350 SRW as hard as I need to press the one my 2014 SD, it would try to put me through the windshield.
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The back turn signals on my 93 ford taurus wont work but the front ones do. i checked the fuses and the bulbs and everything was good. the brake lights work and the head lights but no turn signals. same with the hazard lights. front ones work but no back ones. what should i try?
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I have a 2012 Ford Taurus when I turn the ac on it goes fast and then back to normal every like 3-5 seconds. It blows cold air and it doesn't matter the speed of the ac it speeds up and slow back to normal. Has 49100 miles...
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