I have a 2012 Ford Taurus when I turn the ac on it goes fast and then back to normal every like 3-5 seconds. It blows cold air and it doesn't matter the speed of the ac it speeds up and slow back to normal. Has 49100 miles...
View 3 RepliesFor the past couple months every now and again the power dies in my car for merely two seconds, then flickers back on and I can accelerate again. Just the other day the car completely turned off and all the lights on the dash lit up. I had to break and restart the car in the middle of the road. What is the problem here and how cheap will it be to fix?
View 6 RepliesFor reasons I can't figure, the Temp gauge on the wife's Explorer is shooting from normal to high in just seconds. Then, it drops back to normal. When I looked at it this afternoon, I noted 2 things.
1) There was no sign of a coolant leak or overheating.
2) There wasn't ANY coolant in the tank!!!!!!!
The truck has evidently been running fine while this is going on.
Vehicle: 1994 TripleE RV based on Ford E350 7,3 Diesel, 70000 miles.
My trans is skipping out of lockup for 1-2 Seconds and then goes back to normal operation with lockup engaged. I am shure that it is the lockup disengaging because the increase in rpm is not as much as between gears.
This happens appr once or twice every hour when driving at normal constant highway speed. It happens both in 3rd and in OD. There is no flashing OD lamp, and the OD button is working (I use this actively when going up hill to keep up momentum and rpm)
I am not able to find out what causes this. I have replaced the speed sensor on the rear axle, the rpm sensor on the engine and the brake light switch on the brake pedal. Replaced one item at the time to be able to determine if any of these items was causing the problem. But none of them made any difference, the problem is still there. I have also inspected the harness connector on the trans and it seems fine to me.
I was driving at 60mph and all of sudden rpm drop to zero went back to normal rpm after 5 seconds, pulled over thinking I blew some thing every thing seem normal is this a sensor problem.
2000 dodge ram 1500 5.9l 2wd
My vr6 some times loses its power but it's weird because the check engine light does not appear. It does for like 30 seconds then it goes back to driving normally.
View 1 Repliesmy 1990 Nissan 300zx with 136,000 miles often surges at highway speeds for several seconds then drops back down to normal. the surge is usually 1000 rpm. does not happen if not in overdrive, and will not happen unless having been driving for 15 minutes or so. also seems to occur more on hot days (80 degree +) than on cool days. mechanic has looked at this several times but not yet able to determine why.
View 2 RepliesIt takes almost 10 seconds for the AC to come on in my PIP when I first start the car. Is this normal?
Sometimes, if the AC has just been running, it will come back on in just 2-3 seconds.
I have rpm stalls then comes back every 2 seconds at idle After one hour driving . Whitout any error code and no check engine . I checked all the sensors and even changed alternator and throttle body completely. No I suspect to crankshaft position sensor .
View 4 RepliesSrange noises of my 1994 AWD. When driving, if I take off fast, it makes a lot of pop noise, but if I take off slowly, then It's Ok. Or when I make a quick acceleration after slowing down then it make noise, but if I take it fairly slow then it's OK. The frequency is getting worse. My front axles are in good condition (30K miles on a rebuilt pair). I have unplugged the AWD controller box, it didn't do any difference. All gear shipped OK. So what is that noise in that condition? My 94 AWD is about 110k miles, good shocks.
View 14 Replies99 ford taurus 232000 miles. Great car I keep it fairly well maintained or my mechanic does actually. The thermostat was faulty and while in a long idle it shot all the way to HOT. The car did not over heat. the thermostat was replaced. A week later another long idle and it shot up to HOT again. A few days after that it was discovered I had a leak from the O rings going into the radiator part/section. They were replaced.
Yesterday I drove from work to the store about 25 miles. I got back to my car - started it up - it was rough/sluggish. I drove it 100 feet and noticed the RPM dropped or would not go up to where it had been normally. 40 to 45 miles an hour RPM at 1 or 1.5 .....It drove home "ok" but, I have had the car 13 years and I know there is something wrong. But I do not know what.
My truck is a 2004 F350 6.0 as with most of the ford diesels from this era it has hydro boot brakes.
Under normal braking the truck felt fine and the brakes behaved as they always have. However if you where to depress the brakes hard, as if making an emergency stop, the brakes would not lock up in the way they did when I bought the truck two years and 80,000km ago. The problem was slow to appear and at first I blamed it on the larger tiers I was running (stock 2012 F350 wheels and tires (yes the offset is wrong)) but after switching back to my stock wheels for the winter I knew that something was not right. It was something I could live with, it did not make the tuck unsafe it was just that it did not stop as well as I knew it could and this avowed me. I replaced the front and rear calipers and when that had no effect I swapped out the master cylinder this still made little difference.
I drove the company truck all of last month (2008 GMC 2500 Duramax) and when I got back in mine I realised that I had to chase down the problem. I did a lot of reading online and after thoroughly flushing and bleeding my brake system I narrowed my problem down to either the hydro booster or the power steering pump. The plan we came up with for diagnosing was:
1. Thoroughly inspect for PS/Hydro boost and brake fluid leaks following the procedure found here Hydro-Boost Power Assist Systems: Operation Diagnosis and Repair
1a. Consider bleeding the brakes as a bit of trapped air would cause your symptoms.
1.b Consider flushing the PS system. Some suggest this works with tough steering.
2. Have a shop check the PS pressure is within spec. (assuming this is cheaper than buying the tool or just replacing the pump) If it is low, replace the PS pump.
3. If PS pump is fine, or is replaced and the problem is still there, consider replacing the Hydro booster.
It is not super complete but it was a place to start. We checked for leaks and found nothing. The pedal would not sink under braking but would say firm meaning the brake system was free of leaks.
I began a rudimentary test of power steering pump. With the truck in the drive way I could easily turn the steering wheel however, applying the breaks about half way would make turning the wheel imposable. This led me to believe the power steering pump was starting to go. The next step would be to have the pump tested using a power steering pressure gage or take the truck to a shop to have it tested. I found the pressure gage to be more expensive then the new pump so went that way. With 350,000km on the truck I figured it was not a bad thing to do even if it turned out to not be the cause of the problem.
It is a bit tricky to get the power steering pump out but after pulling the radiator line under the truck I could drop the pump out the bottom. The new pump went back in the same way and after a full flush and bleed of the system it was time for a test. What a difference! The truck stops like the day I got it. If your symptoms are like mine I would recommend you check the power steering pump. If it is the problem it is a lot cheaper then replacing a master cylinder or calipers.
Pretty much like clockwork. Every 9 seconds the power dies for about 1 second and then comes back on. Sometimes the Theft light comes on.
If I am at idle, the car dies. No check engine light. The car has had all new ignition parts in the last year except battery and alternator.
On my 03 Camry (1MZ-FE engine) I noticed a few weeks ago that my engine wasn't coming up to temp as fast as normal. It was taking an additional 10-20min. Took it to my mechanic saying I had a potential faulty thermostat. They said they observed the thermostat opening and closing but coolant was a little low, which they topped off for me. Didn't replace anything or charge me for their services.
Now it's two weeks later and my CEL comes on. Take it to Autozone and I get codes P0128, P0420, P0430. So it would seem that my assumption was right on the faulty thermostat. But now I need to know how the other two codes are related to the thermostat. Based on what i have read, if the engine doesn't come up to temp right away, the computer will deliver more gas to the engine, thus creating a richer mixture, which in turn is not good for the catalyst system.
Could it be possible that just by replacing the thermostat (which i am going to do tomorrow) would cause the other codes to disappear? I'm thinking that I should, in this order:
- Replace thermostat
- Replace one (or both O2 sensors) (upstream or downstream first?)
- Replace converter
I've also read that you can offset the O2 sensors out of the exhaust stream to fool the engine, while still maintaining acceptable emission levels (due to Toyota having a higher than normal acceptable level).
For the past day, when I turn on my 2008 Ford Taurus X, i hear a repetitive flapping sound for about 15 seconds. It seems to be coming from the center of the dashboard. It sounds like " bap bap bap bap..." My son said it sounds like a metronome. Is this bad??
View 3 RepliesI have a 2003 Taurus that runs fine until I stop at a traffic light and then has a misfire about every 5-10 seconds. This diminishes greatly if I put the car in neutral or park while I wait. I have had the spark plugs changed twice. It seems to be more severe in hotter weather. When I was visiting LA, I noticed my cab driver who was driving a 2003 Taurus always put his car into neutral at stop lights as well and when I asked him it turned out that he and all of the other 2003s in their fleet had the same problem. What is wrong?
View 2 RepliesLate build 03 f350 auto, I got a p0500 code and noticed sometimes after 2rd-3rd gear engages theres a shudder or fast vibration for few secs unless i let off, it didn't start this till i took batteries out, where is the location of the vss at, I am seeing some say at each wheel, on top rear diff, on top back of trans so not real sure?
View 7 RepliesI currently have a 2003 F-250 6.0 with 112,000 miles on it. While traveling interstate speeds (70+) and the I can hear the cooling fan rev up and down every 10-15 seconds. Is this normal?
Also when it spins up, it sounds normal then make a high pitched squealing noise. Thoughts?
I am also needing to rebuild the fuel bowl. I noticed DieselOrings offers rebuilds for the 7.3 but not the 6.0. Will these fit or any suggestions on parts?
My 2003 shakes/jerks back and forth at 55 mph. Took to a mechanic, they found nothing...car did not jerk. Check engine light on (although it has been on for years)... Checked transmission codes and found nothing...could be oxygen sensor?
View 3 RepliesI own a 2007 Ford Taurus with about 108k miles on it. When I first start the car, the rpms stay very high (2000) or so for about25 seconds. Once I start the car, until it gets all the way warm, the rpms want to stick around 1300 until I'm stopped for a few seconds, then they jerk downwards hard to almost 400 and come up to around 700.
After the car gets warmed up, it no longer sticks when I brake, but then when I'm stopped it lurches shakes and jerks between 400 and 1000 rpms. Occasionally it will die ( maybe twice a week) but then starts right back up again. I have replaced:
Air compressor
Idle air control valve
Throttle body sensor
I replaced the throttle body sensor yesterday and it seemed to drive better but it only lasted for about 12 hours then the next time I started the car it's doing it again. The only solution I've found so far is that it jerks just a little less when I'm in neutral.
1997 escort lx wagon, manual, 173,000 miles... When I stop at a red light or stop sign, it takes 10-15 seconds for the idle to drop down to where it should be, and when I push clutch in to shift gears it doesn't drop down, it stays where it is. No codes are coming up. I'm thinking IAC....
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