Pretty much like clockwork. Every 9 seconds the power dies for about 1 second and then comes back on. Sometimes the Theft light comes on.
If I am at idle, the car dies. No check engine light. The car has had all new ignition parts in the last year except battery and alternator.
I own a 2007 Ford Taurus with about 108k miles on it. When I first start the car, the rpms stay very high (2000) or so for about25 seconds. Once I start the car, until it gets all the way warm, the rpms want to stick around 1300 until I'm stopped for a few seconds, then they jerk downwards hard to almost 400 and come up to around 700.
After the car gets warmed up, it no longer sticks when I brake, but then when I'm stopped it lurches shakes and jerks between 400 and 1000 rpms. Occasionally it will die ( maybe twice a week) but then starts right back up again. I have replaced:
Air compressor
Idle air control valve
Throttle body sensor
I replaced the throttle body sensor yesterday and it seemed to drive better but it only lasted for about 12 hours then the next time I started the car it's doing it again. The only solution I've found so far is that it jerks just a little less when I'm in neutral.
For the past couple months every now and again the power dies in my car for merely two seconds, then flickers back on and I can accelerate again. Just the other day the car completely turned off and all the lights on the dash lit up. I had to break and restart the car in the middle of the road. What is the problem here and how cheap will it be to fix?
View 6 Replies1996 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, 183000 miles. Car loses all power, randomly. Then starts up in about 3 seconds.
The following repairs have been done: crank sensor, cam sensor, idle control valve, ignition switch, all ground wires checked. There are no computer codes generated. This has been going on for over a year. Has been checked by dealer and three other mechanics.
Recently I've been noticing a gas smell after parking my car after the drive home from work, but engine performance and mileage efficiency didn't seem affected, and I found no visible evidence of leaking on the ground (nor in the engine, but I likely don't know the right places to look).
Today, with the engine running, I looked around the engine to see if I could locate any gas leakage -- I located the fuel pressure regulator (I think; a golf-ball sized acorn on the right of the engine with a hose coming in the top and a pipe coming out the bottom and going down and to the left) and didn't see any leaking during my brief test. I'll check it again after my drive home tonight.
One new thing I did discover, though; while in park, when I slowly pressed on the accelerator, there would be a point where the engine started losing power and going into a rev/slowdown cycle: about a second or two of revving, then a half second of slowing down. This was while cold and in park; I've not experienced this in normal driving.
I have a 2006 ford taurus that the dash started flickering about a month ago then it was fine for a couple weeks, yesterday it started flickering again, and then today it completely stopped working all gauges like car is off, check engine and battery light is on as well as oil light, car runs great regardless of cluster out or not. Air conditioning goes out when cluster goes out. I see many things on lights for the cluster but nothing for this and nothing with the a/c as well.
View 8 RepliesI have a 2007 6.0L 4x4 it has 225k on it. I just had it into the dealer this past week (which we just purchased end of June) they replaced back pressure sensor and #7 injector. Now when you get to about 70-75 on incline it is decelerating and hesitate and looses some of its power.
View 4 RepliesFor the past day, when I turn on my 2008 Ford Taurus X, i hear a repetitive flapping sound for about 15 seconds. It seems to be coming from the center of the dashboard. It sounds like " bap bap bap bap..." My son said it sounds like a metronome. Is this bad??
View 3 RepliesI have a 2012 Ford Taurus when I turn the ac on it goes fast and then back to normal every like 3-5 seconds. It blows cold air and it doesn't matter the speed of the ac it speeds up and slow back to normal. Has 49100 miles...
View 3 RepliesI have a 2003 Taurus that runs fine until I stop at a traffic light and then has a misfire about every 5-10 seconds. This diminishes greatly if I put the car in neutral or park while I wait. I have had the spark plugs changed twice. It seems to be more severe in hotter weather. When I was visiting LA, I noticed my cab driver who was driving a 2003 Taurus always put his car into neutral at stop lights as well and when I asked him it turned out that he and all of the other 2003s in their fleet had the same problem. What is wrong?
View 2 Replies2007 350 the truck sat overnight (15 hrs) I went to start the truck and it had to crank for about 3 seconds which is abnormal for my truck?? It was about 80 degrees outside. Is there any reason for that?
View 7 RepliesSo the 04 is rolling down the road when the cluster gauges ping, the truck loses power/acceleration but the radio never goes out. Have a new alternator and batteries passed a check. It has done it three times. We are 1100 miles from home. OBD and cigarette lighter fuse was blown as well.
View 10 RepliesI have a 1999 Ford F450 Tow truck with a 7.3 turbo. It loses power and misses when I give it gas but when driving normal speed no problems.
I had a ford technician look at problem with a computer and he said number 8 injector . Today number 8 was changed.
Test drove it same problem. I also changed th fuel filter. And I emptied the tank to make sure No water
1994 f250 7.3 turbo problem.. runs great on the level.. Cruises 65 no problem.. We have an 8% grade coming from town and half way up it starts cutting out and sounds like a jack brake under the hood and loses power.. Once over the top it clears out and runs fine again.... I just changed the fuel filters but no luck... I have been wrenching on cars all my life but no diesels..
View 6 RepliesThe last couple of days with the temps in the 50's, my 2000 F550 with a 7.3, will start normally and idle fine. When I try to drive it, I get less than a quarter mile and it just looses power and will die.
If I flutter the pedal, sometimes it will keep running, very poorly. And when it does this, it is putting out blue smoke. After it does this, it will run fine. Just like nothing is wrong.
What do I look for, or is this normal. I have had the truck since last October and this is the first time it has acted like this.
I am a mechanic and tow operator running a late 99 f350 7.3 6 speed cab and chassis wrecker. This truck has had a hard life and has been neglected for quite some time, and now has become my baby/headache. Truck starts great, idles nice, and will run great for about 5 minutes until it starts billowing white smoke that smells like fuel and loses all power. If you continue to drive it it will die. Sounds like it's dropping cylinders and will barely idle. If you stop for 5 minutes or so and let it idle it will smooth back out and will run great again for another minute or two, then right back to stumbling.
Using torque app, hpop pressure looks good when it's running well. Peaks at 3k, IPR maintaining 30-40% max. As soon as it stumbles you can see the hpop drop to 5-600 and the IPR will climb to 65%. Let it idea bit and they go back to normal, and stay good until it stumbles again.
Ive changed the fuel pump, ICP,rebuilt FPR, change fuel filter, pulled and cleaned the fuel tank (metal tank, no delamination, looks perfect inside). Pickup screen looked good. Cleaned the IPR, cleaned the hpop reservoir, there was no screen inside. Checked voltage at fuel pump, 11.78 across the pump with it running. Pulled valve covers, no noticeable leaks around injectors. Injectors have less than 5k miles. Remans with 100% larger tips.
To me it seems like the lpop is not keeping up with the hpop under load, starving it until you idle and let it catch up. Could it still be bad injector orings? Bad lpop? Something I'm not thinking of?
This applies to a 2001 F-350 with 73,000 miles on the engine. Engine oil level is good, batteries charged, HPOP reservoir is full and passes Cody test with flying colors. Fuel pump runs for 20 seconds at key on. Start takes about 6 seconds. If I shut the key off and restart immediately it starts in under 2 seconds but if I wait about 30 seconds it's a 6 second start. Here is an AE that I ran on it, it has me stumped. FWIW it seems to start quicker when AE is hooked up. ?? An odd whir type of noise comes out from somewhere under the hood when I first turn the key on and when I clear the codes with AE.
View 14 RepliesI've got a 2005 F350 that i recently did balljoints, tierods and shocks/stabilizer on. Just stating that because i don't believe anything could be binding up to cause this.
If i am to take a left turn, more than 45 degrees, the truck will seem to lose power assist on the return to center and be very stiff when i return it by force until i jerk the wheel past center and let it come back the other direction and it seems to regain power assist.
Also, the steering is just generally bump. I have not driven a better condition 2005 to tell the difference but i'm sure this isn't the way it's supposed to be
I am not having any issue with braking force, as of yet. The first winter i got the truck i blew a power steering line that goes from the gear to the cooler, in which direction i don't know. It's been a year and a half since then so not sure that caused any failure.
Before this symptom the pump would whine when on left turns only, no problem turning right if i feel like doing right turns the rest of my days. I guess what i'm getting at is, does this sound like a bad pump? Bad gear? Both?
My car loses power when it's to hot outside. When pressing the gas from a complete stop it can barely get going and then within a few seconds the power kicks in and it goes. One summer I was away for 10 days, when I came back, it started, then stalled and died. i took it in, the dealer said the main computer chip had re-scrambled it's self. this has happened twice, the dealer could not give me an answer as to why, but they were happy to take my $260 to fix it. 2006 Ford Escape Hybrid...
View 3 Replies5.0L V-8, Electronic Fuel Injection, 79,000 miles, 2 WD, 4 speed manual. I'm the original owner.
If I drive it 4-5 miles on secondary streets (25-40 MPH) it shuts off without warning after 10 minutes and will not restart without a 20-30 minute wait. If I drive it 2-3 miles and park it for a couple of minutes it will not restart without waiting 20-30 minutes. Checked engine water temp gauge and it is normal.
The local mechanics found no spark when it failed at their garage. They replaced the ignition module on distributor. This did not fix the problem. In their second attempt they replaced the coil. Still the same problems persists and the mechanics are stumped.
It's like something in ignition package heats up after 10 minutes and either sticks open causing no spark or closes shorting out the spark if that is possible. What is causing this and how to fix it.
I have a 2007 Taurus and for all intents in purposes the car runs great, expect during a snow storm. I drive 30 miles on the hwy too and from work. During a snow storm no matter how bad or if snow is blowing or on the ground my car bucks. I don't know how else to explain it. It is like the transmission is slipping but I know that it isn't because it happens for only a split second. It almost seems like the car wants to shut-off or the brakes are grabbing. This will happen the entire way to work or home every few miles but only during a snow event.
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