2005 Taurus. 82K miles, 3L, 6cyl, OHV engine, auto transmission. Occasionally the tachometer goes crazy. When this happens, it seems like the car loses some power. The reading on the tach is definitely incorrect when this happens (needle all over the place). Replacing something called the "speed sensor" ??? Couldn't find anything else that this problem may point to ??
View 1 RepliesMy mechanic put a used 2005 PMC in my 2004 powerstroke. Now tachometer does not work, trans and coolant temp guages don't work and drives as if it is stuck in 3rd. gear. Does it need flashed @ a ford dealer to sync the two together?
View 14 RepliesI have an 06 f250 6.0. When I bought it a few weeks ago I turn the key on and let the glow plugs warm up and start the truck it would start easily. Now it seems like it's taking longer to start . The temperature are between 50 and 80 degrees. I changed the fuel filters and it's still taking to long to start.
2nd I noticed today that when my truck is at idle the Tachometer is at 0 and when I'm driving 60-70 MPh it goes up to 900 or maybe 1200. It seems to be running fine no loss of power that I can tell. What could be causing the long crank time and my Tachometer problems.
the glow plugs and injectors are new I don't remember the brand and the fuel filters are brand new Motorcraft.
The tachometer in my 2010 golf recently stopped working. it just sits at 0 RPM's no matter what. I'm not sure if it is a fuse or something else has gone wrong. I'm not even sure which fuse to replace to try and fix the problem.
View 1 RepliesWe have an intermittent (now more regular) issue on our 2005 SF of the instrument cluster (tachometer, speedometer, gas gauge, temp gauge) sitting at zero - no motion whatsoever. In the summer months, the gauges came on after a while of AC being on, which I thought odd. But it just happened here in October (and the temp is just around 5C/41F) so a temp issue is unlikely. No OBD codes that we know of, all the fuses are fine, and while we did have a PCSV issue earlier this year, it did not seem to affect this particular issue with the gauges.
Threads such as the one below seem to say that it is the speedometer that is wacky... 01 Santa Fe Speedometer Not Working! , and the general solution to the problem/issue is to replace the vehicle speed sensor (VSS) and associated gear mechanism. And on a different thread, Input Output Speed Sensors , it was suggested that the problem could be addressed by changing the input and output sensors.
In the last six months I've occasionally seen both the tach and the speedometer slowly peg when I start in the morning. My mechanic says to not worry about it but I do. The car is a 2005 Toyota ECHO with manual transmission.
View 11 RepliesSons 03 accent tachometer stopped working. It now reads zero..... All other gauges fine as well as lights. Question is , is there a sensor that controls it that may be bad??
View 3 Replies I just Put an 98 1.8 T engine into a 2000 2.8 passat , Everything is working fine , But The Tachometer , The Rpm And The temperature Gauges in the cluster are not working ... The Fuel Gauge also Beep and indicate low fuel when i'm turning ... Actually , the car has the V6 Cluster , i switch those and it make no difference ....
All the wires are hooked up in the ecm compartement , each wire with good color ...
Is someone has both wiring diagram of ecm compartment plug ?? 2000 v6 and 98 1.8T
2005 Taurus - 6cyl - 3L - 85K. 2nd post on this on. Have had this vehicle to 2 mechanics now and problem is still there. First mechanic checked the refrigerant pressures, added dye, couldn't find a leak. Told me that he had to add a small amount of R134 and the pressures were "spot on" but the problem was still happenning so he supposedly trouble-shot the system and found it to be electrical. He said that the controls on the dash were causing the problem and changed them. When I picked it up, everything worked fine for the first day. After that, the same thing happenned where it would intermittently work.
I took it back to another mechanic (who specializes in AC work) and he evacuated and recharged the system (also said that he added dye and couldn't find any leaks). When I questioned this, he said the pressures were low and that would cause the intermittent loss of the AC cooling. This time, it work for 2 days and then the same thing happened where it intermittently works. There is no pattern at all to it working. Sometimes it's when the car is first started ; sometimes it quits just driving down the highway ; and sometimes it quits for 5 minutes and then just comes back blowing ice cold air. I suggested the AC compressor clutch or coil to the 2nd mechanic and I'm not sure he even checked it. Does this "still" sound like a leak somewhere or more electrical ?
I have a 2005 Ford Taurus SE 3.0 v6.. Where the fuel filter is located ??
View 5 Replies2005 Ford Taurus
It always makes this sound when I first start and it is wet outside. After a few minutes the sound stops, presumably after whatever is squealing dries up.
My 2005 Ford Taurus (3.0 liter engine, auto trans, 117K miles) recently began shifting hard (dropping suddenly, not smoothly) only on the 2-3 shift at 20 MPH. The check engine light is not on, and the car functions perfectly otherwise. A mechanic removed the trans pan, replaced the filter and fluid, and added Lucas additive. The interior of the trans was clean, and did not have a burned smell. The 2-3 shift did not improve.Could it be a valve body or a solenoid? Is it repairable? I drive it gently, and the problem hasn't gotten worse (2 months). What's up with my trans?
View 1 RepliesMy wife's 2004 Ford Taurus has been acting up. It shudders sometimes at stoplights and also while driving sometimes. The auto parts store plugged in the computer and said it was the torque converter not working properly. We took it to "The Answer" in Evansville, Indiana for their advertised free diagnosis. They checked it out and told us basically the same thing. The torque converter was acting up. (Slipping? Catching? I don't remember the exact details...)
They said the remedy would be a big expensive job (install rebuilt transmission? Replace torque converter?). Is there anything we can do to prolong the inevitable such as fluid, filter change...flush...additive? We are resigned to the fact that we will need to buy another vehicle but wonder if we should buy one now since the Taurus may only last another few weeks or can we put off buying another car because the Taurus may last another six to twelve or more months.
2001 ford taurus. The heater worked (not great) then slowly got colder each week for 4wks changed the thermostat.
View 14 Replies2005 Ford Taurus 3.0 engine. Only at idle has a popping noise out of throttle body. Found lots of people with same problem but no fixes.
I did find out noise goes away when unhook alternator wire and comes back when reattach. Found someone replaced there alternator and that didn't fix it either. I think its electrical?
The problem is intermittent: After turning off the car, there is a clicking noise coming from the needles in the dash. Sometimes the needles click and jump repeatedly; sometimes there is just the clicking noise. To get it to stop, I'll turn the ignition switch several times. At this point, the car seems "dead" but not from the battery. The car actually will not do anything electrically including popping the truck, unlocking, etc. It will not start.
After turning the switch several times, the car would eventually start like nothing was ever wrong with it. I am just guessing that there is something wrong with the switch or something electrical. I also want to think it coincides with something to do with the battery. The problem seems to be worse after checking and seeing that the battery may be low. We have had the alternator checked, we've had the battery itself checked, etc. In addition to driving around with an angry (bad) catalytic converter, this problem, etc, I really would like to send it off of a ravine.
I had a check engine light on my 2005 Ford Taurus and my mechanic suggested cleaning the mass air flow. Afterwards, the light was off and the car seemed to drive fine ( it was driving fine even with the check engine light on) But my mileage dropped drastically. On the freeway it went all the way down to 10mpg! Right now around town it is fluctuating a bit, but around 14mpg. Should I have the mechanic check for a loose wire or something not connected properly? Or just replace the darn mass air flow?
View 9 RepliesMy wife's car suddenly started running rough. 2005 Taurus, 6 cyl, 3L, OHV, 83K miles. CEL came on and code came back as "P305 - cylinder 5 misfire detected". As a side comment, her tachometer has been fluctuating big of late as well.
View 2 RepliesWell, let me rephrase that, the AC works but blower motor doesn't. When you put your hand up to the vents, they're cold.
Long story short, I ran my AC on MAX on way home from work, driving time of approx. 35 minutes. I got home, showered, and got back into car to go downtown to store. It was then I discovered that the AC wasn't coming on, and it was still on max. I shut it off and turned it back on, but to no avail. I checked all related fuses, or at least what I think is related and checked my "Taurus Bible" the chilton manual. I swapped out a blower motor relay and it didn't work, but i'm not sure that relay was or was not good, it was out of a '96 E-250 at work.
So now I get out my test light. I pulled the connection from blower motor, connect it and turn on AC and light comes on. Vents are getting cooler. So I get my tool and pull the radio and climate control assembly. I pull the plug to the actual fan connection, the part that connects to the fan switch that controld fan speed. I'm getting nothing there.
Is there a relay I don't know of? I know the AC still works because vents are still getting cold, but I can't get air to move. A LONG time ago it did this but "corrected" itself. What is my next step? I'm not sure what to check next and my repair manual is leaving me in a boat with no oars.
More details of car:
1996 Ford Taurus 3.0 V6 Vulcan motor, 8th VIN is UAUTO188,000 miles
White 4 door gray interior 3 car seats
GoodYear Tires inflated to : 33lbs LF34lbs RF36lbs RR35lbs LR
What is going on with my dad's car. This car is a 2000 Ford Taurus with about 160,000 miles. In the morning, when he starts the car and drives away, sometimes the speedometer will not work and the automatic transmission will not shift out of first gear. After a few miles, the transmission will suddenly upshift and the speedometer will jump from 0 to the current speed. The door locks will also lock at the same time (they normally lock upon reaching a set speed). However, the car can be "forced" to shift, start the speedometer, and lock the doors by accelerating to 5000 RPM. The problem appears to have something to do with the vehicle speed sensor, but I don't know what exactly is wrong with that system. The car also knows that something is up as the Check Engine light is on.
What might be wrong with the VSS that causes this problem?
Why can it be forced to shift at 5000 RPMs?
How to check the stabilizer links. 05 Taurus, 4 sedan, 83K miles. Have a distinct noise coming from the front passenger side when going over a bump. Just checked the following and here's what I've found: Checked the ball joint - no play whatsoever, it looks good under the "pry bar" test under the control arm. Tie rod end is tight- no play at all. Strut mounts seem fine. The stabilizer link looks fine - no rust, tears, etc. But I can easily, by hand, twist it freely. However, prying up on the stabilizer bar doesn't seem to show any play on the link itself. Should these be tight (at the joint) to the point where you need some "muscle" to turn them ?? I'm not sure what's left to check.
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