Ford - Taurus :: 2004 - Heater Malfunction / No Hot Air Coming In
Nov 26, 2012
This morning, I started my car and turned on the heater to let things warm up while I finished getting ready. When I came out to the car about 15 minutes later, the temp gauge was showing normal operating temperature but no hot air was coming in and didn't for the rest of my 15-minute drive to a meeting. When I next drove the car about an hour later, I let the car warm up first, then turned on the heat. It started to blow warm air, but then after a couple of minutes, the air got cold again.
Don't know where to start on this one.
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Car has been having a myriad of problems that seem to be related to the electrical system. First warning sign that something was wrong was the car wouldn't start up immediately after turning the car off. We had to wait between 5 and 20 minutes before the car would start up again. It was also revving up briefly at idle. Brought it into the mechanic, they replaced the power steering pump. We told them about the issues with turning the car on, they said they didn't see anything.
Car worked fine for a couple of weeks, then when we were driving a longer distance (more than an hour drive) the tire pressure alert light went on. We were close to our destination, so we drove and parked, and the tire pressure was a little low. We were asked to move the car to a different spot in this lot, and it wouldn't turn on. When we came back to the car (this was after flying out of down for four days) the car started up fine, and we filled the tires with air.
Next time we went on a longer drive, the tire pressure alert light went on again, but we checked the pressure and the tires were fine. This light turning on issue has continued, without seeming to be related to the tires actually losing pressure at all.
A couple of other problems that may be related. One, the car completely stalled out once at an intersection, and the battery warning light went on. I turned the car off, waited 60 seconds, then turned it on again and drove home just fine. Also, the right turn signal is flashing at double speed on the dashboard, but there aren't any issues with the headlights or taillights themselves that would cause the light to flash at double speed. The left turn signal and the light on the dash flash normally.
I'm worried that this may be indicative of a larger problem in the electrical system, and since the mechanic told us the first time that they didn't see any issues I wanted to get a second opinion before I brought the car in again. I also don't really have a lot of money to spend, so I need to know if this is a critical issue or just something I can ignore until I get a new car early next year.
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Car dies going down the road, last year I was towed three times on freeway, once in town. I noticed that before it shuts down the air condition stops and auto windows won't work then I go to step on the gas and nothing.. it can happen two miles from home or 100 miles from home. after it sits awhile it will start. been to mechanic and he had it for a month and ran it everyday he said and nothing like that happened.
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2001 ford taurus. The heater worked (not great) then slowly got colder each week for 4wks changed the thermostat.
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Coming home from work tonight, Radio turned down, Air off/Heat off. Whats the sound coming from the dash around the radio/heater controls/ vents? Can't really explain the noise, but its like a boiling/clicking/scratching noise.
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[URL] .... This is interesting! Too bad i just found it last night after i spent the last week removing my entire dashboard steering wheel/column. etc.
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I have some codes on my ranger 2000 here goes
P0141: o2 sensor heater circuit malfonction (bank 2 sensor 2 )
P0455: evaporative emission control system detected (large leak)
Now I will need to get that fixed cause I don't know where to look and what to look for ... For the leak I know there is a big crack on the plastic where the gas lid is could that be it ?
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Our 2005 Sonata GLS with 100,000 miles has a digitally controlled system for the heater & A/C. For more than 2 years the only way to get heat was to raise the temperature up into the 85 - 90 degree range. Now we must put it all the way up to 90. When we do, the heat is extreme.
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This one has me stumped, and I can't find a rational explanation on the net but it appears to be a known problem. I have a friend with an '06 Nissan Pathfinder that has climate control with dual zones (front and rear) that fails to blow hot (in front) when the vehicle is stationary and the rear heater is on. I used to wrench for a living so I've eliminated the obvious. The front blows hot air when the vehicle is in motion and also when stationary and the rear climate controls are off. So clearly it would seem to me that the issue probably lies in the switching of ventilation ducts from hot to cold. I'm not familiar enough with the system to proffer a solution though. The way I see it it's probably a sensor at best, an issue with the climate control unit itself at worst, or some sort of bizarre mechanical malfunction involving the vents closing when they should be passing air from across the heater core to the entire interior.
I haven't spent much time diagnosing the issue mainly because I don't do it for a living anymore. Hot air comes out of the front when the car is warm, stationary, and the rear blower motor is off. My friend who isn't very technical and speaks English as a second language tells me that when the rear heat is on it blows cold in the front while the vehicle is stationary (in Park or perhaps just when stopped for an extended period i.e. at a traffic light).
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SC430 came up with the check engine light, showing a "Oxygen Heater Circuit Malfunction", code P0155 (bank 2, sensor 1). Searching, I found out this is the oxygen sensor in the passenger side exhaust manifold.
My car is high mileage (over 130K), it's hard to justify purchasing a $230 sensor and paying for installation. My only goal is to keep the check engine light from turning on and passing state inspection/emission (the check engine light will prevent passing inspection/emission in my state).
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CEL/OBDII code P0141 - O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction
So I just bought this car 64k well maintained but cant get rid of the check engine light. Replaced downstream O2 sensor with no luck. As soon as I get home I'll check voltage @ connector. Lets test the O2 sensor connection and test the pins to make sure there is no break in the wires.
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Just got a P1135 Code on the 1MZ-FE 2002 Camry.
My code reader pulls it up as (no typo below) : AirCFuel Sensor Heater Circuit Response Malfunction.
So I know it's a bad Air/Fuel sensor. Which one though? I replaced the rear sensor by the firewall about 6 months ago which fixed the check engine code (I don't remember the code). Would it make sense that the front one failed now or the back one failed again? Most of my research points me to a bad rear sensor however a lot of people also report that a code reader would report the sensor as "Bank 1 Sensor 1".
The rear sensor was replaced with a Denso 234-9042 Sensor.
I would play the replace and test game... however inspection is due within the month and after resetting the code, it usually takes about 50 miles to return. Being in college, 50 miles takes about 2 weeks.
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2005 Ford Taurus 3.0 engine. Only at idle has a popping noise out of throttle body. Found lots of people with same problem but no fixes.
I did find out noise goes away when unhook alternator wire and comes back when reattach. Found someone replaced there alternator and that didn't fix it either. I think its electrical?
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The problem is intermittent: After turning off the car, there is a clicking noise coming from the needles in the dash. Sometimes the needles click and jump repeatedly; sometimes there is just the clicking noise. To get it to stop, I'll turn the ignition switch several times. At this point, the car seems "dead" but not from the battery. The car actually will not do anything electrically including popping the truck, unlocking, etc. It will not start.
After turning the switch several times, the car would eventually start like nothing was ever wrong with it. I am just guessing that there is something wrong with the switch or something electrical. I also want to think it coincides with something to do with the battery. The problem seems to be worse after checking and seeing that the battery may be low. We have had the alternator checked, we've had the battery itself checked, etc. In addition to driving around with an angry (bad) catalytic converter, this problem, etc, I really would like to send it off of a ravine.
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I have a 2000 Ford Taurus and when i am going down hill and coming to a stop sign the whole car shakes , the whole front end was redone and yet the problem still persists, It also stalls out when coming to a stop sometimes what could this be ?
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I noticed my serpentine belt started squeaking about 3 days ago. And yesterday as I was driving to work I heard a clicking sound coming from the left side of the hood, then my car started to gradually shut down and white smoke was coming from the engine. When I got to the stoplight it completely turned off, but I was able to turn it back on again to turn into the parking lot before it shut off again. When I checked it there were no visible leaks, my reservoir for my coolant was still full, and my meter never went up indicating that my car was over heating. I'm not sure what's wrong with it, but after it sits for awhile it is able to turn back on again for a while.
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When I got home from a long drive I noticed this white-ish smoke coming from under the hood. I opened it and found that the tube for the window wash was disconnected so I re connected it. Idk if that's what was causing the smoke or not. I also noticed That at the bottoms there was something leaking from the tube. See pics. Bottom tube with the silver connector. What do these go to? The smell was kinda sweet.
[URL] .....
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I have a 94 ford Taurus all of a sudden my ac doesn't blow cold and my heat doesn't blow hot. Also every now and again I hear a sound like an alarm clock coming from passenger side??
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How to check the stabilizer links. 05 Taurus, 4 sedan, 83K miles. Have a distinct noise coming from the front passenger side when going over a bump. Just checked the following and here's what I've found: Checked the ball joint - no play whatsoever, it looks good under the "pry bar" test under the control arm. Tie rod end is tight- no play at all. Strut mounts seem fine. The stabilizer link looks fine - no rust, tears, etc. But I can easily, by hand, twist it freely. However, prying up on the stabilizer bar doesn't seem to show any play on the link itself. Should these be tight (at the joint) to the point where you need some "muscle" to turn them ?? I'm not sure what's left to check.
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'01 Taurus with an occasional rattle/clunking sound coming from the front end when going over bumps. Took it to the local shopping center auto. service dept. (probably 1st mistake I know) They say the only thing they could find was the RH CV boot was bad and was probably the source of the noise. Doesn't sound right to me since the boot is rubber and what I hear is more of a metal sound..what I was thinking possibly a suspension link or tie rod end. I know what a bad cv JOINT sounds like and it's nothing like this. Now if the CV boot is bad I don't mind to replace it, but I don't want to spend the money if it is not going to solve the problem. I've never heard of a boot making noise before.
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My mom was driving to pick me up and she said that all of a sudden about half way here that the car started making a knocking sound and white smoke started coming from hood, the car was also trying to shut itself down while she was trying to pull over. It is a 2000 ford taurus with like 130k. I am so scared that it is the head gasket because my mom, myself and my daughter, and my 16 year old sister all share that car to get around. Is there anything else it could be besides that or is that probably what it is?
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