Ford - Taurus :: 2003 Start To Shudder Intermittently If Turn On The AC When Idling
Jul 15, 2014
I'm having trouble with my Taurus 2003 and the mechanic is struggling to find anything wrong;When idling, if I turn on the A/C on the car will start to shudder intermittently. It feels kinda like an engine misfire...The mechanic replaced the spark plugs and the trouble seemed to disappear but was back again after a number of weeks. When I took the car back the oil-seal was leaking so I got those replaced. It may possibly have been better for a few days [It's a bit difficult to gauge as the problem is somewhat intermittent] but then the problem was back.
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My 2003 Taurus sometimes refuses to start. There's no real pattern: sometimes it's after the car has run for a while and other times not. Sometimes the starter clicks, other times the engine lights come on with no sound at all from starter/engine. Thing is, the car always ends up starting if I let it sit long enough (15 minutes--several hours). I've read around on the internet and realize this seems to be a problem experienced by many owners. I've changed the battery, checked all the connections, cleaned the starter connections and the Mass Air Flow Sensor. If the starter was bad, it seems like it wouldn't start at all, right?
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My parents' car is a '99 Ford Taurus. The first time they go to start it in the morning, it either won't start or has some trouble starting. If it doesn't start, they can go back out a little later and it starts fine. Either way, once it does start, it runs fine for the rest of the day, and can be started with no trouble at all. Then the next morning the cycle begins again. It's been to the mechanic twice for this problem, but he can find nothing wrong with it. Btw, this problem has been happening in May and June, so cold weather is not responsible, it has been warm.
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My 2003 ford taurus SES randomly has problems with the speedometer fluctuating from 0 to 10 mph upon idling. Sometimes the car will eventually stall out but always restarts without a problem. You can feel it "jerk" when changing gears or what I describe as a "hesitation" once in awhile. The car is an automatic and we have already replaced the relay and the voltage regulator/alternator - that has not workeded. I can't afford to keep throwing money into it replacing parts that don't fix the problem. What could be wrong?
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I have a Ford Taurus 2003 wagon. We bought it used in 2010. Initially we had the car checked out and only needed a transmission fluid flush because of a shift delay. We replaced the battery and oil changes for it on a regular basis. Last year, we had an issue where the engine would suddenly turn off while driving and then turn back on. The dealership said it was the synchronizer and replaced that. We also had then check out a burning scent and they said that it was from oil leaking from the engine.
I am not sure that they fixed what they said they did since it still smells and some times there is smoke or steam coming from under the hood on the right side near the windshield. A month later the car was still turning off while driving and the dealership said they didn't know why. We ended up taking it to Advanced auto parts and having the battery tested. The alternator needed to be replaced. We wasted a ton of money at the dealership... So mad about that and never going back there again. They clearly don't to a good job. We replaced the alternator.
So now, a few days ago, the abs and fuel lights came on while driving, and the radio also made a noise like an electrical surge type. ~10 minutes later I noticed smoke or steam coming from under the hood. What is going on with the car?
I am so anxious driving it since last year when the engine would turn off while driving. I have my baby in the backseat and I have already decided what to do if the engine catches fire. I want to get rid of this car and get a new/used one but my husband wants to keep it since it should be cheaper to fix then to get a new one. I don't want to spend a ton of money either, but I also want a car that will reliably drive us to work and daycare. Oh and of course the car works fine anytime when time my husband is driving it, but that is only on the weekends occasionally.
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My 03 with a 5.4 has been hesitating a when you accelerate and cutting out as well as idling rough and die when you slow down. It does all this intermittently. Not every stop or every time you accelerate. I first got a code for the MAF and both banks running rich (PO102, PO172, PO175) so I cleaned the throttle body and MAF. The running rich code came back (PO172, PO175) so I then changed the MAF and air filter . It seemed to work for a day or so then my light came on and I figured the same code was back but to my surprise it was now both banks running lean(PO171, PO174) so I took my MAF back and got another one. It hasn't set a code yet but it is still running poorly. I have changed all the COP's and plugs as well ....
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I have a 99 f450 with a 7.3. Here lately it has been "missing" when driving or idling, but only every now and then. When driving down the road it will start bucking and boiling black smoke out then the ses light will come on and like turning a switch everything clears up and it acts and drives normal.
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This has been driving me crazy for the past 3 years. My car has 276,000 miles and runs great with no hesitation. I drive this car 1/2 the year and my 2012 Nissan Altima the rest of the year. I alternate every other month so neither car sits for too long.
My problem is most of the time the 2003 FORD TAURUS starts right up. However, sometimes, about 1 out of 5 times or so of starting, when I turn the key, I get nothing. The dash board lights come on, but the car does not start. So I found that after turning the key back and forth from ON to ACC (with nothing) and then turning the key back and forth (left to right and back) after doing that 6 or 7 times, the car finally starts .
Then it runs fine, starts the next 5 or 6 times with no problem. Then I turn the key to start it again, then nothing. So I turn the key back and forth 6 or 7 times and it starts. I took it to the Ford dealer and they said I need a starter. I went out and bought a starter and had Pep Boys install the starter (total price was around 1/3 the price quoted from FORD dealer). By the way, Pep Boys also said a new starter will fix this.
Then 3 months later, same problem. I took it back to Pep Boys and they said most likely the starter is defective. So I got the starter replaced, and all was great for another 3 months. Then the same problem. So I took it to NTB and NTB said it was also the starter. So I had them install a brand new starter.
All was Ok. My battery is brand new and my alternator is ok, used but OK.
Then 6 months later, the same problem. So a friend of mine tried to fix it. He unplugged the battery over nite, and had my re plug the battery cables to the battery terminals the next morning. And all was fine for 4 months. Then the same problem again. This time it took about 14 or 15 key turns before the car finally started. (Note: after 8 turns of the key back and forth, it resets the key FOB for programming on the Ford Taurus). This guy checked my electrical and cable from the starter to the battery, and he said all was Ok. He then tried to start the car, turned the key, and it started right up.
I don't mind turning the key back and forth, but if someone is in the car with me with the summer Atlanta heat and humidity, it can be a little uncomfortable, until the car finally starts. Keep in mind, the car always starts eventually. The car has never let me Down. I got the car in 2007 and the car still runs great and the A.C. blows super cold, no funny smells inside the car and the transmission is good. I like this car. I think it is built Much better than the 2012 Nissan Altima.
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My daughter has a 1997 Taurus SHO and it's been running pretty well until this morning when a turn of the key failed to start the engine. The battery is fully charged but when she turns the key, we get the click from several places under the hood, including the starter relay. I'm pretty sure it's the starter relay, it's inside of the fuse box, is identified as "starter" on the guide printed inside of the cover and is black plastic about 1.5 inches square. The windows, radio, horn and all of the other accessories work, but no reaction to the key.
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I have a 2003 Taurus wagon (a real babe magnet) that has 63K on it. On random occasions recently, I turn the key to start it and there is dead silence--no groans, no clicks, nada. This happened for the second time last week at a tire shop, and the technician had me hold the key in the start position while he tapped the starter with a metal rod, which worked miraculously. He showed me where the starter was and how to perform this miracle. Unfortunately it is a two-person job, and I was stranded the next evening alone at my house, and missed work the next day. Later that day it started right up like nothing had happened.
It stranded me again two days later, and nice lady in the parking lot held the key in start position while I used my cane to tap the starter as I had been shown. I took it to the dealer and explained the problem and my temporary solution, hoping they would know from this exactly how to fix it. After four days, they said they could not duplicate the problem, that the car started right up every time they tried it. Meanwhile the car I had borrowed from a friend broke down in a busy intersection, stranding me again for a short while. I went back to the dealer and brought the Ford home, figuring there isn't much to do but play the odds....Logic suggests that because tapping the starter seems to get it to go, that the problem must be in the starter. Yet the guys at the dealership wouldn't touch anything until the car refused to start for them. Where does one go (or in this case, possibly not go) from here?
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About three weeks ago I noticed a slight shudder in my 2008 Ford Taurus with app. 75,000 miles (automatic). It did not come from the steering wheel, but the car itself seemed to be shaking, but only slightly. Like someone who's had too much caffeine holding out an unsteady hand kind of shudder. It was going in for an oil change anyway, so I had my mechanic check it out, even thought the shudder was gone the next day. It came back, for a few moments while the mechanic was driving. He couldn't tell what was causing it, but said not to worry.
Two days later when I was in the car for the first time that day the car jerked when I put it in reverse out of park. I checked the transmission fluid, and, sure enough, it was about a quart low. All symptoms went away. I took it back in to double check that there was no leak and that everything seemed in good working order. The car was given the all-clear.
Then this week the shudder returned, again, only sometimes. It doesn't seem related to temperature, distance driven, or weather. And the maddening thing is that it only does it sometimes. I checked the transmission fluid again and it is still in the safe zone.
Two days ago, after being parked overnight, the car shook very noticeably for about ten seconds the first time I switched it out of park, first into reverse, then into drive. This was different to the other shudder (I know, seriously). This was a shake, like the bass in a super strong stereo was cranked. Then it stopped and the car drove just fine. I parked it for twelve hours then switched the gears again. Nothing out of the ordinary happened.
Today it had no issue when I first switched gears, but while I drove (for about a half an hour) that original slight shudder was there. This time at all speeds, not just low ones. I went where I needed to go, drove it again about four hours later and it was fine. No shudder, nothing and this drive went through road work with stop and go traffic as well as some time on a highway at speeds up to 55mph. I drove it another time after that, and again, no symptoms. Finally, I drove to the store. The shudder had returned. I parked, shopped for about 15-20 minutes, returned to the car, and it hesitated to accelerate as I pulled out of the spot. It did not jerk or seem to try to catch up. It simply delayed, but accelerated smoothly.
I parked again and let it rest for about 10 minutes, started it up, and no trouble at all. Even that weird shudder was gone. I think this car is toying with me. I'm taking it back to the mechanic, but the trouble is that it doesn't always have these symptoms. I drove it Thursday on a two hour trip and back again with no issues at all. This might make it difficult for the mechanic to diagnose, but at least it's a guy I trust. There are no warning lights on, no smells (unless they are faint as I don't smell things well), and no strange sounds.
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2003 Ford Taurus, 49k miles, 3.0 OHV V6 (Vulcan).
It's my daughter's car, she's away at college, so it only gets driven once a week at the most. For the last year or so when I turn the key to start, the starter starts to turn, hesitates for a second, and then turns over and starts the car. I've been assuming the battery was a little run down from sitting so much. There are no noises, clicking or grinding, just this slight hesitation. The battery terminals are clean.
Last night it wouldn't start on the first try, I had to turn the key 2 to 3 times before the starter would turn the engine over. I took the battery to Advance Auto and it tested fine but needs a charge (~12.2V). I'm slow charging the battery with a Battery Tender so it's going to take a while.
This hesitation, is it a sign of a failing starter?
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while driving her 01 taurus to work last night my daughters car just died while in motion. the "check transaxle" light came on. car would not turn over and start. went back this morning, and it still won't turn over...what gives?
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I have a 2000 Ford Excursion with multiple transmission symptoms, so here goes.
The problem doesn't occur until after the vehicle has been driven approximately 100 miles as far as I can tell. At that point, I'll start to notice smoke coming from underneath the vehicle caused by the transmission leaking fluid onto the exhaust from the front of the transmission. At lower speeds, and while idling, the transmission will shake and shudder. It's not noisy or that extreme, but definitely noticeable.
I've also noticed on occasion there is a loss of power at higher speeds when the vehicle is in 4th or 5th gear. This mostly happens when trying to accelerate to pass on the highway. The transmission sounds like it downshifts, but the hard I push the gas pedal, the less power I have. If I push down far enough, the RPM's begin to drop. I've noticed that after I let the vehicle sit turned off for a couple of hours, it begins to work properly again, but it only lasts until the transmission is hot again.
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Own a 1997 F-150, 4.6 L, 4 x 4. I know it's old but it's in very good body shape, has been undercoated for years. I've only had it for a year. This summer it began to not start (intermittently). The dash lights all come on but the starter will not engage. Brought to my local garage, he changed the starter and the ground cable from the battery.
Was ok for a few months and now it's beginning to do the same thing. Brought it back to him, can't find anything. He did say that the battery is a bit weak, the terminals are spotless (I keep them spotless, coat them with white grease). I measured the voltage with the engine stopped and with it running. Stopped, the voltage is 11.94, running it is 14.87. This clearly shows that the battery is weak.
My question is would this cause the starter to not engage after 4 or 5 turns of the key and then on the 6th try, the starter turns over? I don't want to spend more money ($ 450) the last time and have the same result. If it's possible it's the battery, I'll replace it no problem.
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Had a shudder/shaking sometimes on my 01 Superduty. Found left front caliper was sticking. Took it to a shop and he replaced both calipers and pads. Picking it up after he was done and he asked if I had the ABS light on before the work was done and I said NO. He tried and tried to get the light off but it is still on. Codes are C1155 and C1158. I got home and checked the abs connector it seemed ok. Looked at the master cylinder and it was a little low but also noticed he did not put the cap back on(it was just sitting aside). I kinda thought if he got air in the system....it would be a hard pedal but all works ok except for the ABS light. Will not go into how it shudders a little when stopping because he did not resurface the rotors like I asked. Maybe I should go back thru and bleed the brakes again?? The abs sensor on the hug is approx. 3 years old. and have never had the abs light on.
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This spring I installed a Ford OEM limited slip unit in my 05 F 150. Recently I notice a brief, intermittent shudder when turning right or left from a stop sign. Does not do it all the time. I don't notice this any other time. The Valvoline synthetic oil I used said the Ford additive was not needed. Is this the "nature of the beast", should I be concerned, should I put the additive in anyway?
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I have a 2002 Nissan Altima. When I am sitting at a light, there is sometimes a shudder that runs through the vehicle. If I put it in park while at a light, it doesn't happen. Also, when I'm accelerating, there is a sound like a rattling growl coming from the front right of the vehicle.
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Several months ago, my truck begins having starting issues. Intermittently, the truck will not start, even though it cranks fine. I have done the following:
- checked inertia fuel switch. Okay.
- checked connections under hood for corrosion. Okay.
- checked fuses & start relay. Also swapped relays with no luck fixing the problem.
- sprayed water at various locations under the hood and bed, since the problem occurs more often when raining. No luck stressing the problem.
- changed fuel filter a couple weeks ago. No luck fixing the problem.
- changed battery over the winter (due to my 8 year old battery was becoming weak). No luck fixing the intermittent starting problem.
- changed the starter a month ago (since the truck stopped cranking). No luck fixing the intermittent starting problem.
- Installed a fuel pressure gauge on the fuel rail.
- Tried banging on the fuel tank with a rubber mallet. No luck fixing the intermittent starting issue.
When the truck refuses to start, the fuel pressure reads 0. Sometimes I can wait 5-10 minutes, and it will start. The truck runs fine after starting.
Sometimes waiting 5-10 minutes will not solve the problem (fuel pressure remains 0). Then, I hook my battery charger to the battery, and the voltage climbs from ~12.5V to 14.7V. The fuel pressure climbs to 30, and the truck starts.
I'm apprehensive to change the fuel pump, since it seems like more an electrical problem than a pump problem. Any diagnostic test that will tell the true problem source?
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My 2002 F150 Screw has been giving me issues when trying to start it for the last month. Sometimes it will start sometimes it won't. When I turn the ignition on the gauges all seem normal, the theft light turns solid then goes out, but engine will turn over but not start. Sometimes it will start if I leave the ignition on for 20 seconds then pull the key and try again. (this doesn't always work). I have disconnected the battery for about 2 minutes this usually works but not always.
Sometimes it will start first time with no issues. Once the the engine fires it runs fine. Another symptom is when I shut the engine off, pull the key and open the door, the chime telling me that the key is still in the ignition sounds. (but the key is in my hand)
I put a new battery in yesterday to rule that out and because the old one seemed to be getting weak. (starting issues didn't go away). I don't want to put 300+ into a fuel pump without being sure that's the problem.
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1999 Ford F-150 V8 5.4L... The other day I was attempting to fix my 4wd. I discovered that the vacuum tube by the 4wd solenoid had become disconnected. I reconnected it and in an effort to see if my fix was successful, I drove my truck up one of the canyons nearby. I got to an area full of loose rock and popped my truck into 4wd. As soon as I began to drive, the truck started idling very rough and died. I attempted to restart it for the next few minutes unsuccessfully. I got it started once and it continued to idle rough for a few seconds and died. I have not been able to start it since. It turns over but will not crank. It is not throwing any error codes. What I have checked so far:
Spark plugs are working.
When turning the ignition into the ON position, I am able to hear the fuel pump working.
I have not seen any cracks in the vacuum hose.
All the fuses are still okay.
What the culprit may be?
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