Ford - Taurus :: 2003 - Fuel And ABS Light Turning On Intermittently?
Oct 21, 2013
I have a Ford Taurus 2003 wagon. We bought it used in 2010. Initially we had the car checked out and only needed a transmission fluid flush because of a shift delay. We replaced the battery and oil changes for it on a regular basis. Last year, we had an issue where the engine would suddenly turn off while driving and then turn back on. The dealership said it was the synchronizer and replaced that. We also had then check out a burning scent and they said that it was from oil leaking from the engine.
I am not sure that they fixed what they said they did since it still smells and some times there is smoke or steam coming from under the hood on the right side near the windshield. A month later the car was still turning off while driving and the dealership said they didn't know why. We ended up taking it to Advanced auto parts and having the battery tested. The alternator needed to be replaced. We wasted a ton of money at the dealership... So mad about that and never going back there again. They clearly don't to a good job. We replaced the alternator.
So now, a few days ago, the abs and fuel lights came on while driving, and the radio also made a noise like an electrical surge type. ~10 minutes later I noticed smoke or steam coming from under the hood. What is going on with the car?
I am so anxious driving it since last year when the engine would turn off while driving. I have my baby in the backseat and I have already decided what to do if the engine catches fire. I want to get rid of this car and get a new/used one but my husband wants to keep it since it should be cheaper to fix then to get a new one. I don't want to spend a ton of money either, but I also want a car that will reliably drive us to work and daycare. Oh and of course the car works fine anytime when time my husband is driving it, but that is only on the weekends occasionally.
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My 2003 Taurus sometimes refuses to start. There's no real pattern: sometimes it's after the car has run for a while and other times not. Sometimes the starter clicks, other times the engine lights come on with no sound at all from starter/engine. Thing is, the car always ends up starting if I let it sit long enough (15 minutes--several hours). I've read around on the internet and realize this seems to be a problem experienced by many owners. I've changed the battery, checked all the connections, cleaned the starter connections and the Mass Air Flow Sensor. If the starter was bad, it seems like it wouldn't start at all, right?
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I'm having trouble with my Taurus 2003 and the mechanic is struggling to find anything wrong;When idling, if I turn on the A/C on the car will start to shudder intermittently. It feels kinda like an engine misfire...The mechanic replaced the spark plugs and the trouble seemed to disappear but was back again after a number of weeks. When I took the car back the oil-seal was leaking so I got those replaced. It may possibly have been better for a few days [It's a bit difficult to gauge as the problem is somewhat intermittent] but then the problem was back.
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I have a 2004 F150 XLT 5.4 L 79,000 miles. Yesterday i was driving home turned a corner and the low fuel light came on and the fuel gauge is well below empty. I had approx 1/2 tank of fuel when it happened. I have since filled tank all the way but the gauge will not move and low fuel light stays on. Everything else is working fine! I have never run the truck low enough on fuel to make the dummy light come on.....
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The past week or 2 I have had an intermittent starting problem. Engine is turning over but wont start, but after i wait a second it will start up. I listened to see if the fuel pump was running and heard the whine. I checked the battery and the starter voltage and it was all good. i primed the fuel pump a couple of times and it started up on the first crank of the ignition. The truck runs great when driving and idling, no misses or loss of power that i have felt or heard yet. I am thinking it is either the fuel pump is starting to go or maybe the fuel filter is getting a little clogged up. Like i said up above this is an intermittent problem and that is why I am confused. Its a 2001 F150 4.6 4X4 ....
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I have a 2003 Ford Taurus with over 117,000 miles on it. I use the car to get home from Texas to Florida about twice a year, but otherwise hardly touch it since I'm a college student. I've noticed lately that the car has been jumping when either waiting at a light or driving at lower speeds.
However, yesterday something strange happened. I was waiting at a light and the car started bucking more than usual. It was at night, so the dashboard lights started fading and the car stopped. The air and radio worked still after the car shut off, but the car wouldn't move. I tried cranking it, but it wouldn't crank. I pulled the keys out, cranked and it started it successfully. While it waited at the light it bucked violently. Then, when the light turned green it ran no problem like it normally does at normal speeds. When I got to my car parked at my place, I let it sit in the parking lot for five minutes running and it didn't buck once.
I am about due for an oil change. I haven't reached 3,000 miles yet, but my last change was in August. I've read a few other topics with similar problems on here and people have suggested transmission flushes. I did have my transmission fluid flushed at about 70,000 miles. Is it possibly due for another one?
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My parents' car is a '99 Ford Taurus. The first time they go to start it in the morning, it either won't start or has some trouble starting. If it doesn't start, they can go back out a little later and it starts fine. Either way, once it does start, it runs fine for the rest of the day, and can be started with no trouble at all. Then the next morning the cycle begins again. It's been to the mechanic twice for this problem, but he can find nothing wrong with it. Btw, this problem has been happening in May and June, so cold weather is not responsible, it has been warm.
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I have a 2003 Taurus that runs fine until I stop at a traffic light and then has a misfire about every 5-10 seconds. This diminishes greatly if I put the car in neutral or park while I wait. I have had the spark plugs changed twice. It seems to be more severe in hotter weather. When I was visiting LA, I noticed my cab driver who was driving a 2003 Taurus always put his car into neutral at stop lights as well and when I asked him it turned out that he and all of the other 2003s in their fleet had the same problem. What is wrong?
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My coolant indicator light keeps returning on my 01 Jetta GLS 2.0
I have searched in the forums and read that its likely a coolant sensor and requires replacing the coolant tank. I am wondering if there are other possible causes as I want to drive it for another 3k before replacing tank (as I will be having timing belt replacement and coolant flush at that time). Previous owner had universal (green) coolant in and it will be replaced with proper coolant when the flush is done.
The indicator comes on within a minute of starting the car. The thermostat seems to operate just fine and car is not overheating. I have topped off with diluted water, it definitely has proper level.
Safe to ignore as long as I watch coolant level and temp?
On a separate issue: I tried to use code reader but it would not connect to my car (had successfully connected at some point prior), I believe it may be because I have an aftermarket radio (the K-wire issue?). If that is true, should it resolve if I swap the stock radio back in? I need to be able to connect to the car eventually when it is time to renew registration (for state emissions control testing).
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My 1995 Ford Thunderbird has a problem when I turn it off. After turning it off and removing the key the gauges still stay on and the low fuel light come on even though there is a full tank. Every other time I turn the car off the heater fan turns on even though it is in the off position. I replaced the ignition switch and cylinder but it didn't make a difference. I'm thinking it might be the ECU but I don't want to just start replacing more and more things trying to find this out.
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1999 Ford Taurus V6 DOHC Battle Wagon. It will not start. It is barely turning over so I started with the battery. Battery is good so I then cleaned all connections to the starter with no change. Still turning over but only barely. Took the starter off and had it tested at O'Reilly's and the starter is also good according to them. I guess my next step would be to start replacing the wiring from battery to starter? After that I am not too sure on a direction to go. On a side note, my cousin did not think it was very funny when I told him that the title was already signed and that it was his problem now.
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So my 7.3 started sputtering and lost power, died on the side of the road. I wasn't far from home put about 8 gallon of diesel in the tank with a couple of fuel jugs and it fired right up.
Gauge was reading 1/8 of a tank and low fuel light did not come on. (low fuel light comes on when you start) Gauge came up to about 1/2 after putting fuel in.
What happened? Gauge was always reliable and low fuel light always did work. Only work done to fuel system was had new tank straps put on a couple of months ago.
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I cant find the port on fuel rail to get a fuel pressure reading.it is nothing like my tarus.saw astem sticking up on front right of rail but it has some kind of covering over it. It is a 2005 freestar with the 3.9 motor.
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My 2001 4.6L F-150 has been sitting on the driveway, used once every 2 weeks or so for the last 3 yrs. I came to start it a few days ago and it kept turning over but not starting. The key security chip is working, battery is charged, all plugs are firing, fuel pump fuse and relay check good. When I turn the key to ON, sometimes I hear the fuel pump priming, other times it doesn't. The times it does prime, the truck fires right up.
The times it doesn't prime, engine won't start. When the pump does prime, and while the engine is running, the pump makes a noticeable buzzing sound, much louder than normal. When the pump primes. fuel pressure measures at 42psi in the ON position, 36psi with engine running, and 46psi with engine running and vacuum hose removed. I believe all these are within specs.
My question is this: Is it safe to assume that the pump is going bad and will eventually fail completely? My second question is (and I know this can be debated til the end of time) should I get the Motorcraft or aftermarket? I have Airtex, Spectra, Carter, and Delphi available locally.
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2003 Taurus, 3.0 duratec flex, 30K. While driving at various speeds the theft light flashes for a split second and the car starts to stall before resuming normal operation on its own. The rpms drop off, and power is lost for a split second. This is getting more frequent and happened five times during a 30 mile drive. The original Ford key is being used. My scan tool reveals no codes. I understand that there may be anti-theft codes that my scanner cannot read.
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The pumps at times will function what appears to be normal. At other times the pumps will not stop running and it is at those times when the engine does not like to run.
I do not know if the engine will not run due to too much pressure or not enough fuel pressure. The problem is with both tanks and pumps so I do not believe the problem is inside either of the tanks.
One problem is that I just got the truck and the prior owner had at times done a little work and you know how that can be a problem. He could have done some damage to some hoses or who knows what. He had replaced the radiator and the left side exhaust manifold recently, though at different times. He thinks the problem started around the time he did the radiator. I know it doesn't make sense but things can get bumped or damaged.
What would the problem be that it could come and go? I drove it for a few miles and I thought that maybe the problem had gone away after I replaced what appeared to be a short vacuum line by the throttle body. But the problem still comes and goes. Now the truck is stuck till I figure the problem out.
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My battery light is coming on intermittently but the truck seems to be running fine need to know how to test it to make sure that is the problem.
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Immediately after putting new tires on my '02 Taurus SES, steering is really hard at the pullout, or turning at slow speed just after startup. After several seconds, steering is back to normal. I did have the steering pump flushed out with new fluid several months ago, and fluid is up to level now.
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When I turn the key all the way over, I hear only one click, and no engine sound. Playing with park or neutral positions do nothing. Battery and connections are good. I am getting a raw fuel smell out of the tail pipe after it finally starts. The check engine light intermittently comes on, by now it is mostly on.
My guesses are: fuel pump/relay problems, starter/connection problems.
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Intermittently blinking check engine light in a 2003(?) Ford Escape. I received a call from my fiance, who's about 45 minutes into a two hour drive. On the interstate, her check engine light started blinking, so she pulls off the interstate to a gas station (the light was blinking for maybe five minutes before she could stop, according to her). After she was off the interstate, but before she had turned the engine off, the blinking stopped.
She called me, and I looked up and directed her to an AutoZone about a half mile from where she was. Told her to drive there, and have them to try to read any codes from the engine. She drives over, engine light stays off the entire time. They hook up the reader, and there aren't any codes. My question is, if the check engine light stops blinking, and there aren't any codes for the reader, is the car safe to drive, or will she destroy the cat if she keeps going? Also, it's raining, if that matters for any reason.
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F250 LD 99. Battery light flashing from time to time. When it happen voltage gauge in dash go up (but not in red zone so far). All other light are blinking too but not on and of like battery warning light then like stronger - weaker. So far at Internet is said should be ground. I saw one ground at firewall close to negative post of battery but where is other ground? Can it be voltage regulator (alternator)? Did clean battery posts, didn’t work. 4,6 engine. Voltage at battery posts with engine on is 14,7 - 15,1 V. With engine off 12,3 V.
Didn't managed to check voltage when is battery light flashing as it only happen when I drive not at idle.
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