Ford - Taurus :: 2002 - Trans Seems To Hum While Car Is Down In Dip
Mar 21, 2014
Driving an 02 Taurus, 3.0 motor. Trans was rebuilt recently. Car seems to drive smoothly, with 1 driver. But on a road with dips, the trans seems to hum while car is down in dip. Hum lasts for 1-2 seconds. Back on level road, car is quiet. Only had car for a few weeks. I noticed hum within 1 day of driving. Tires? Wheel bearing? So, last weekend I had 3 passengers. Tried to accelerate up on ramp and the "hum" was very noticeable while accelerating. Any light cruising, the car seems quiet. I am leaning towards binding cv axles? Or bad valve body. Or something internal in trans. Gonna talk to former owner who paid for trans work.
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My 2005 Ford Taurus (3.0 liter engine, auto trans, 117K miles) recently began shifting hard (dropping suddenly, not smoothly) only on the 2-3 shift at 20 MPH. The check engine light is not on, and the car functions perfectly otherwise. A mechanic removed the trans pan, replaced the filter and fluid, and added Lucas additive. The interior of the trans was clean, and did not have a burned smell. The 2-3 shift did not improve.Could it be a valve body or a solenoid? Is it repairable? I drive it gently, and the problem hasn't gotten worse (2 months). What's up with my trans?
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What is going on with my dad's car. This car is a 2000 Ford Taurus with about 160,000 miles. In the morning, when he starts the car and drives away, sometimes the speedometer will not work and the automatic transmission will not shift out of first gear. After a few miles, the transmission will suddenly upshift and the speedometer will jump from 0 to the current speed. The door locks will also lock at the same time (they normally lock upon reaching a set speed). However, the car can be "forced" to shift, start the speedometer, and lock the doors by accelerating to 5000 RPM. The problem appears to have something to do with the vehicle speed sensor, but I don't know what exactly is wrong with that system. The car also knows that something is up as the Check Engine light is on.
What might be wrong with the VSS that causes this problem?
Why can it be forced to shift at 5000 RPMs?
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I have a 2002 Ford Taurus with 219000+ on it. The las couple times that I have driven when the air temp was over 85 the temp gage moves to hot when the air is on. When I turn the air off the temp comes down. I have checked the fans and they are running. I also looked at the condenser and it seems to be clear. I have talked with some one and he suggested flushing the radiator.
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My A/C does not work on my Taurus. It never has since I bought the car about 7 months ago. A few days ago I attempted to add freon. I started adding it with the A/C on at max. As I started adding A/C my compressor kicked on and started making an ominous noise; the sound was of air hissing for about 2.5 - 3 seconds punctuated by a click. So it would go something like this: airrrrrrrrrrr CLICK airrrrrrrrrr CLICK airrrrrrrr CLICK etc... My A/C starting to cool EVERSO slightly; almost imperceptible. It was advertised as having COLD A/C but I could not very well test it as I bought it in the dead of winter.
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I have LOVED my 2002 Taurus SEL..until just recently. I have ac but no heat! which is a bit of a problem because I am in Minnesota and soon the snow will be flying!! Also, my vents on my dash are not working either.
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Just today I noticed an indicator showing up on my dashboard. The indicator shows the passenger side of the car, and a little screw coming out of it. I grabbed the giant book of boredom (Car manual) and the indicator is one for checking the gas cap and says once the gas cap is seated properly the light will go out.
I reseated the gas cap making sure it clicked when I turned it, and drove the car for about 45 minutes (My drive back home), and the light has continued to stay lit. What seems strange is that the check engine light is not showing up, which I know typically happens if the gas cap is not on properly.
Is there a sensor somewhere in the car that will cause that 'check gas cap' light to come on, and if so is it something I could find and replace myself, or am I better off going to a shop?
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Found on road dead is right, my car has 160000 miles before it broke down. The early symptoms that I noticed was my brake light would come on every now and then. When my car first broke down a plastic pin or clip that connects to the column above the transmission next to the senor disconnected. I noticed this when my car wouldn't move and then I put it back into the hole so it can shift into which it did when I started it. I then went to a store and got a metal pin to hold it in place so I can shift into my gears.
After I left the store about 30 min later I was trying to get up to speed and my car wouldn't go over 45 mph and then wouldn't shift into any gears and I parked it on the did of the road. I later replace the plastic pin that holds the shifter cable to the transmission column and still nothing. I then thought it was the transmission range sensor because the brake light is on and still nothing. When I turn on my car the brake light remains on and I can shift out of park and when i do that it will shift threw all the gears. I'm starting to think my transmission gone but I'm confused why the brake light is on.
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I have a 2002 Ford Taurus which I bought in the Winter and didn't check the air conditioner. It only blows hot air on any setting, some settings blow more hot air than others. I will have to pay to remove the dash to find out. Here's the weird part, last summer the coolant was a little low and I was stuck in a drive thru line. I watched the temperature go up until, lo and behold, the air conditioner kicked in and blew frigid air! It came on and worked twice more that day. I filled up the coolant and it hasn't worked since.
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I have a 2002 Ford Taurus. When we bought the car the heat worked fine. One day we went to turn the heat on and it would only blow out cool air. We replaced the thermostat and that did not work. The blower works fine it just doesn't blow any hot air out. Also, the driver side seat adjusting control went out. The seat will slide backwards and will raise the seat up and down, but when you try to slide the seat forward it just makes a funny sound. It was working fine and the other day I went to move my seat forward and it wouldn't go forward.
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I drove 10 hours in my 02 Ford Taurus perfectly fine then a day later New Year's Day car didn't start for some reason I took it to the shop turns out I needed a new alternator, battery, new belt, made sure all wiring was good, and topped off all fluids (which were very low) ...... After that everything was fine for awhile then in the evening I drove bout 36-40 mins turns out my fan wasn't on the whole drive and car started smoking bad (white smoke) when I got to a parking garage popped the hood water was trying to burst out of its compartment in a panic.
I opened the dam thing shit spewed everywhere and burned my arm we let the car cool down started it again added water to the tank where it was lost everything seemed ok then not too long later I was getting off the highways car starts smoking yet again but this time the engine literally stop working I pull over looked under the hood white smoke is now coming from engine and when I try to restart it it's starts and died couple seconds later and from the looks of it I was leaking some fluid as I was getting off the highway and still was leaking something when I pulled over. I just got smacked for the alternator earlier in the day and now all this happens and I'm so confused ...
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I have a 2002 ford taurus with a basic 3.0 v6 . The alternator stopped charging the battery.
New alternator
New battery
New pcm
Still nothing, this has been causing me the biggest headache. Alternator is pcm controlled btw...
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When my car is stopped/idle I smell burning. However when it is in motion the smell goes away. Other than that my car runs fine. What could this be? My oil change guy told me to just add Lucas Oil Stabilizer and that would eliminate the smell but it has not worked.
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I just recently purchased a used taurus and was experiencing rough idling and misfiring during operation. I replaced the EGR valve, the egr sensor, coil pack, spark plugs, iac valve, as well as check for vacuum leaks near all the hoses. I am a novice when it comes to this, but I was able to change those without issue. The misfiring was fixed during driving, but I still have rough idling. The needle seems to stay in check pretty well and the check engine light isn't on, but the car kinda hesitates and it causes the car to rock when idling. You can also feel the stuttering and rocking when cruising at very low speeds (5-15mph). I've already plugged in a decent amount of money into parts and am running out of patience when it comes to fixing what is a "potential" problem, and it winds up not fixing much.
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Three days ago, my 2002 Taurus ses, 144k, auto, 3.0 v6 motor, started "ticking" after I drove it to the local grocery. It is coming from the top of the motor, but does not make noise when it is first started, cold, only after it is warmed up. Oil & filter has 2500 miles on them, all other fluids are good.
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My car stopped in the middle of the road after going 55 mph. It wouldn't go drive or reverse. I did get It to go in neutral so I could push it out road. It has done this before but after stopping putting in park then drive it would go but not this time. What could it be and how much would it cost.
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I have a 02 excursion 7.3 with 120000 miles. Went camping and towed my 28ft travel trailer weighs about 9000 lbs loaded . The trans got super hot dumped fluid in the past this time same thing but the front seal went had it replaced and the trans pump rebuilt on the way home it got super hot a few times what I need to do now. The trans guy said the trans had been rebuilt in the past don't know when cuz I bought the truck used 1.5 yr ago..... The truck has tow package coolers its set up for towing how the hell do I keep the temp down...
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Where do i look for the trans ID on my 02, 7.3 ? thought there all 4r100's is that right..
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I have 2002 Ford Taurus SES. Currently the brake light is on and the ABS and traction control are not working. The brakes have been checked and are ok and it has been hooked up to a code reader and no codes come up. Occasionally the light will go off and the abs and traction control work for awhile.
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My 02 trans with 189k miles on it has lately started not going into park completely. Every once in a while it will feel like it is in park, but when i get out of the truck it starts to roll away, and the park pawl can be heard ratcheting. The shift tube screws are tight, as is the tube itself and the shift lever. Does this sound like the trans will have to come out?
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I am having trans problems with my 2002 V10 excursion. When in overdrive, the trans will rev up 300 rpm before downshifting into direct drive. It never varies in rpm always exactly 300 rpm. It's not slipping and it seems to be an electrical problem. It has 190k on it but has only been used as a family vehicle and has never towed. It has 50k on fluid change.
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