Ford - Taurus :: 2001 - Transmission Went Out As Started From Stop Light
Jun 6, 2015
I have 2001 ford taurus the transmission went out on me -as i started from stop light the transmission sounded like it was going into gear all the way I let off the gas and it went into gear this happened a few more times until i got on interstate and when i interstate no problems at all with transmission then I pulled off to go home and mre stop lights it acted same way then after a few more lights i gave it the gas from stop light and no forward gears i do have reverse is a sensor bad ...
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It seems like a sudden transmission, happens JUST a MOMENT after I start to go forward from stopped, like at a light. It might be worse if I did a jackrabbit start, but I don't.
It's a pretty hefty "jerk" and I would think the car is already in first (automatic) but it feels like a crappy shift on a manual trans.
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I have a 1995 Ford Taurus when I press on the brake to come to a complete stop the transmission slips from second gear to first gear. But when I press on the gas and go from 1st to 2nd gear its a hard shift but no slipping. I checked the transmission fluid it was low and dark so I replenished the fluid and put in this slip and seal stuff in the transmission. What else can I do and how long do you think I will be able to drive my car until it dies completely?
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I have a 2001 Ford Taurus I bourg a month ago. The dealer I bought it from replaced the air compressor on June 29. Today I had been in my car for a couple of minutes and was stopped at a stop light when my car idle increased and all of a sudden I heard a high pitched screeching sound. The a/c immediately quit blowing cold air. I turned the a/c immediately to vent and continued to drive home. After raising the good once I got home, I could see a bunch of what looked like rubber and oil shavings down under the compressor. What may have happened?
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I changed my plugs a few days ago on my 96' Taurus GL 3.0LI checked under my hood to check the recommended gap size and it said .42 to .46.. I went with .46. after putting them in i started the car up just fine, but later in the day i noticed when I came to a stop at a red light my car would sputter and my check engine light would start blinking. When I'd accelerate and drive it again everything would clear up and the light would stop blinking. I didn't change the wires, just the plugs in case you were wondering but I am unsure of how much that would influence my problem. Today after work i had a little trouble starting my car. After a few tries it started and my exhaust smelt rich in gasoline. Did i gap them too much? Should i get new plugs again and regap them? should i buy new wires also?Is my ignition coil going bad?
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i have a 98 ford taurus and the other day it just stopped running at a stop light. After having it towed home I took out my jump pack and it started up and ran for like 15 mins and it shut off agen.i jump started it agen but when i took the jump pack off it stopped agen. What I need to look at?
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I have a 2003 Taurus that runs fine until I stop at a traffic light and then has a misfire about every 5-10 seconds. This diminishes greatly if I put the car in neutral or park while I wait. I have had the spark plugs changed twice. It seems to be more severe in hotter weather. When I was visiting LA, I noticed my cab driver who was driving a 2003 Taurus always put his car into neutral at stop lights as well and when I asked him it turned out that he and all of the other 2003s in their fleet had the same problem. What is wrong?
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2002 Santa Fe, 2.7 AWD
The transmission has started going into limp mode and causing the check engine light to come on.
The codes given are p0750 and.... I think p0751, for shift solenoids C and D. There is also the generic Transmission Control Module code.
Limp mode only occurs at higher speeds although shifting feels a little rough at times in lower speeds.
If operated in manual mode the vehicle can be driven normally at all speeds without going into limp mode.
Fluid levels are fine.
With limp mode occurring in automatic but not occurring in manual mode, is it more reasonable to believe the solenoids are malfunctioning or the control module itself? I'm inclined to replace the solenoids but find it odd that the vehicle operates normally in manual. Also, can the solenoids be replaced without removing the transmission? It looks like I could get the pan off but am unsure if there is room to get the work done once it is removed.
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Bought the Camry new in May 2006. Besides the oil hose leak (which a recall fixed), it's been a perfect car.
Fast forward to the present. I needed a brake job, so my master mechanic buddy installed front and rear powerslot rotors and akebono performance pads and flushed my brake fluid. No problems with the brakes.
A few weeks later I wanted to treat my car to a 90K full transmission flush (it's first transmission service). I had it flushed at a local toyota independent shop. They used WS fluid. A few hours later, my transmission which shifted perfectly fine before the flush started shifting weird. I thought the computer had to relearn my wife's driving style. When she brakes hard (if she's going 50 and the light turns yellow and she brakes hard, her car slows down normal, but right before it comes to a complete stop is when the car shakes. She said it started right after the transmission flush.
A few days later when she was at a red light, the car check engine lit up with a check battery (she thinks that's what it said on the screen). When the light turned green, it wouldn't accelerate, but it would roll forward when you let go of the brakes. When she got to a safe place to park/stop she turned off the car. A few minutes later she turned the car back on and it was fine.
I told that to one of my buddies who had something similar happen to him in his 06 Mustang GT, the Ford dealer cleaned his throttle bottle and maf sensor and he was on his way. I had my throttle body and maf cleaned. Now with new brakes, new brake fluid, a flushed transmission, a clean throttle body and maf, I thought everything was good.
On the freeway , the car would not shift to 4th gear or higher. So I exited the freeway, drove the surface streets to a independent Toyota shop. Left the car there all day, they could not find anything wrong. So, right now everything is back to normal except the shaking when you are almost at a complete stop, which started AFTER the transmission flush, what that might be?
To describe the shaking problem, imagine I'm driving 45-50, light turns yellow, I slow down, 50-20 is fine, maybe even 50-15 is fine, but the car shakes right before it fully stops.
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Had this thing rebuilt less than 8k by a reputable local trans builder and the reverse started to fail on me told the guy the problem and said everything is "normal". Drove it and the thing started to act up slamed out of OD and the light started to blink. Took it to the guy to get it checked and said most likely the tranny is toast the fluid does smell burnt.
Then he told me that I had two codes and that they were the cause of the tranny to fail, the codes were P1105, P1106 and that the voltage going to the solenoids was low roughly at 8.6 volts... Can the alternators have anything to do with tranny messing up? I took the to be tested and both alt are good I have a constant supply of 14.4 volts from the alternators. Can this be the pcm taking a dump?
Forgot to mention that this is a 2001 f250 platinum Edition 7.3 power stroke.
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I have 104k miles on car, had tune up back in 09, new die hard battery from sears spring '10, just today my car started to shake when in idling, check engine light flashing. It seems to shake itself even while driving, when in idle it will then kill or die. Had radiator flushed January 2nd, 2011 due to heat not pumping through, still doesn't work (I know heater core) like it should. Finally the other problem is when I start & turn the car on it won't turn over-it wants to but takes a few tries like turning key each click like as if it were alternator, does sound like it would if it did turnover but like I said it takes a while & maybe will fire/catch. What the heck is going on? 2001 flex fuel as well but I only once put it in.
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I've had this problem with my 08 v6 camry se recently: when i first start my car and stop at a stop light my transmission will seem to disengage or not switch gears properly resulting in me redlining and not being able to accelerate properly. shortly after everything returns back to normal and the problem goes away on its own never to return until i begin the process all over again.
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I have a 2001 Nissan Altima. Recently it started to surge when I come to a stop. It doesn't always happen, in fact it can do fine for a day or so. But every once in a while, when coming to a stop, the engine rev's up to about 4000 rpm. It immediately returns to a normal idle, but I have to throw it into neutral to stop. Nissan said it was the idle sensor in the throttle body, so I replaced the throttle body. Still happens. Another Nissan mechanic said it could simply be that the sensor needed to be re-programmed. Did that, still happens. Today, it happened, but stayed at 4000 rpm until I took my foot off the brake. Then it returned to normal idle. It doesn't matter if I come to a quick stop or let it drift to a slow stop.
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I have a 2001 Grand Cherokee 4.0L with 215xxx miles. It just started stalling coming up to a stop, but then it starts right up no problem. Engine idles a little rough and the gas mileage has gone down somewhat. The CEL came on a while ago, and the auto shop checked the computer code and said it was the neutral safety switch. I brought this up with a friend who had the same problem and he rebuilt his and said it was easy. So I was going to attempt it, but I can't find the darn thing. @ questions:
1)where is it? and
2)could the NSS be causing the stalling?
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working on a 2000 F-150 (5.4L & 4R70W). the truck was towed to me with the complaint it would not go forward.
I found 6 transmission trouble codes set. I cleared the codes and was able to drive the truck for about 30 miles. It shifted perfectly and had all 4 forward gears, codes did not come back. I parked the truck to check the fluid level (it was full) waited about 15 mins and went to move the truck, As soon as I turned the key and started the engine the CEL came on and the OD light started flashing, the transmission would engage in forward gears but would just chatter when you tried to accelerate.
I checked the codes and found P0743, P0750, P0755, P1747 and P1760 set. I tried clearing the codes again several times and come back instantly when the key is turned on.
I doubt all the electrical solenoids in the transmission have failed at the same time. I suspect the internal connector and/or harness maybe faulty. what is the best course of diagnosis on this? where so I start?
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2001 Excursion V10 with E4OD. Transmission is around 4 years. Old with 40-50K on it. Here's my timeline of problems.
Day 1. Went to dive and it slipped and caught taking off. Never felt that before. I drove it about 7 miles, no problem, when coming to a stop it stuttered a little. Checked fluid it was OK. Added some SeaFoam. Seemed worse and thought I was outta luck.
Day 2. I dropped the pan and found the normal metal around magnet plus a few metal shavings(not brass). Not many. I took it to a tranny guy and he said something inside has failed but he wasn't sure what. I changed filter, used same fluid as it looked ok, put it back together and added Lucas treatment. It moves ok, still slipping around 15% of the time on takeoff. After moving it runs/shifts great.
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One day I was driving my truck 96 f150 4x4 Eddie Bauer edition and the over drive light started flashing and the truck got jerky going up hills. I got home and hooked my code reader up and (p0708) it said transmission range sensor. I replaced that the next day and drove it around town for about 30 minutes and parked it all seemed to good. But the very next day I started down the road and the transmission was slipping very bad after I turned around after a few hundred feet I barley made it back to my house. I checked my transmission fluid it's full and doesn't smell burnt or anything, I double checked the alignment on the neutral safety switch I just installed and it still in line. So I'm thinking my transmission is going out...
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My ford taurus 1995 started squeaking really loudly. I think it is probably a belt and I plan to take it to a mechanic as soon as possible. No one is open on Sundays to look at it and I need to use the car. Would it be safe to use it for a couple days? Someone told me it could be the serpentine belt. Is there any other thing which could cause this noise?
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I have a 2001 pontiac grand am se 4cyl with an automatic transmission and I've been having issues with my transmission, about a month ago the transmission started shifting hard then just went out so i took it to a transmission repair shop and the tech said that it was the pulling clutches and i told him to completely rebuilt the transmission including new electronics and torque converter and he did i got it back and it drove fine for that day then stared doing the same thing my transmission slams into gears and I don't know what the problem is sometimes ill be going down the road and the transmission slams and then the trac light comes on for a little bit then goes back out??? also some days i can drive it a mile or 2 before it starts slamming into gear.. what this could be causing it to slam i would think it couldn't poss be the transmission as everything has been replaced? could something else be causing it to slam into gear..
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Had a front seal leak on my 2000 F250 V10 with 122000 miles. Since I've towed for years and the tranny had to be pulled I opted to just rebuild the whole tranny. I had problems from the beginning where it wouldn't shift into third and when I took my foot off the gas it would just go out of gear completely and just rev. After I stopped and started over, it would shift fine for the rest of the day.
Finally the O/D stem light started flashing and the mechanic did something to fix it. Since then it has shifted fine but when it went into overdrive the rpm would bump up and kind of slide into overdrive. Left the truck with the mechanic again for two weeks and it's better, sometimes revs and slides into overdrive not every time though.
My problem, besides the overdrive shifting, is it now takes forever to shift in to 4th gear. I have to take my foot off the gas to make it shift into 4th and overdrive won't kick in until 45 MPH. My gas mileage, while bad enough before all this, has now dropped another 2 mpg to around 7.5 to 8. I was thinking about taking it to a Ford dealer for some kind of analysis.
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Driving to work the other day my transmission shifted down and the transmission light started blinking. It felt like it geared down like it was in 4x4 I was doing about 55 at about 2600 RPMs. This has happened twice now and lasted around 2 minutes then stopped and ran great.
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