Ford - Taurus :: 2001 - Fourth Cylinder Misfire / Car Won't Accelerate
May 6, 2011
Question about a 4th cylinder misfire question? The engine light has been on off and on for about one year. I have not had any problems with performance until about one week ago. sometimes it shakes and the engine light flashes when it is idling. Today my husband drove it, and it would not accelerate when he put his foot on the gas, but it would pick up speed when he left his foot off the gas! Weird. This is an old car (2001 Ford Taurus station wagon) with 137,000 miles on it. We need this car.
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Wife's car - 2005 Taurus, 6 cyl, 3L, OHV, 83K miles. CEL came on and code came back as "P305 - cylinder 5 misfire detected". The car had been running rough. I changed the plugs, wires and coil. After changing these (and clearing the code) the car seemed to run better for about a week. Today it suddenly started running rough again and the CEL came on with the same code. I'm guessing now this is probably fuel related as opposed to spark related??? As a side comment, the tachometer has been fluctuating as of late as well (again, intermittently).
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01 Taurus, 3.0 pushrod motor. Single 6 pack style coil. I replaced worn plugs 2 months ago for misfire. Car seemed to run fine. Now, I have misfire again. Code is for single cyl, 0303. Would u expect plug to foul, or bad wire, or possibly bad coil? I don't know how these ford coil packs fail. Can u lose 1 or more spark outputs with them?
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My wife's car suddenly started running rough. 2005 Taurus, 6 cyl, 3L, OHV, 83K miles. CEL came on and code came back as "P305 - cylinder 5 misfire detected". As a side comment, her tachometer has been fluctuating big of late as well.
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Ford F150 1999 5.4 XLT... I've had this truck since may 2013 from the 2nd owner who only drove it
occasionally to make sure it ran. For the last 5 weeks there have been two occasions where my service engine light appeared...once on 12/28/15 and again today. Both read cylinder 4 misfire. Upon searching this piece which I'm assuming is the boot that covers or houses the spark plug is very unsecure and causes a shaking feeling as I accelerate or idle. Being so far back I can't reach it with extensions on a ratchet and barely fit my hand back there. Having to consider taking it into a shop for further analysis and repair but I'm trying to save as much money as possible as I am in between jobs since mid January. I have a picture attached...
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I am having a lot of issues with my 2002 ford escape, a while if I drive the truck acts normal, but after driving it starts missing when beginning to accelerate at a dead stop check engine light starts flashing pulled codes coming up with #4 cylinder misfire and #5 cylinder misfire detected, also a catalyst system below threshold bank 2, I have had the vacuum lines repaired and still no changes and went through and changed my grade of fuel from regular unleaded fuel to premium fuel, actually went worse with using premium fuel. I was thinking of replacing all three coil on the front of the motor, putting new plugs in it and seeing what that does.
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I had a consistent misfire on this car and finally got a P0301 trouble code. I installed new Autolite AP 104 plugs and wires. Now, when I start the engine. it runs perfectly. But when I put it in gear, it misfires. After a minute or so, the misfire clears and the engine runs perfectly. I have not received another trouble code. One thing I did notice is that the plugs I took out (Motorcraft AWSF 32P) had a much larger gap than the .044 the associate at AutoZone set the new plugs to.
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I have a 2001 ford windstar the codes are bank 1 lean (wires have been cut) could this cause the miss fire on the #1 and 3 cylinders? The previous owner put copper plugs in it instead of platinum. How hard is it to change the plugs?
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I have a Nissan Frontier, 2002, 4 cyl., manual 5 speed transmission. It seem to slip out of fourth gear, and only fourth gear, especially if I try to drive aggressively, or if I try to accelerate from fourth gear. It happens most when I am driving at lower speeds in fourth gear. Also, the colder the morning, the more likely it is to slip. IS this a transmission problem or a clutch problem (or something else), and what needs to be worked on or replaced- i.e. a whole system, or only a select couple of parts?
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2001 Ford Ranger 4.0L V6... Okay so I bought my truck last September with 100K on it. Ran perfectly fine. No problems for for the first two months and then it started to misfire when at idle. Check Engine Light came on. Scanned and got a random multiple misfire code. I then changed the plugs and wires. Had to repair the threads for cylinder two. Did all that and it kind of but not really solved the problem. A few weeks later got another check engine light. Cylinder 3 misfire. Changed ignition coil. No better. Shortly thereafter I checked again whilst at work and read misfire on 3 and now 2. Currently replacing the intake manifold o-rings and cleaning out intake.
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I have an 01 5.4 Triton with engine light on I put it on the scanner and it read miss fire on cylinder 6 and 1 I changed the cops and plugs boots and spring erased the codes but the check light is back on and scanner is say miss fire on same two cylinders u can hear it in the exhaust u can smell gas when sitting at an idle around 40 MPH has a slight engine shake goes away when u accelerate I am not sure what else to do some one told me to check for vac leaks and fuel pressure.
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I know I can fix this problem, but my question is which cylinder is #4? I don't see it marked on the engine. The counter guys at both my local parts supply stores (whose initials are A and O) can't even look it up for me. If #4 is on the front of the engine, then it's an easy fix. If it's on the backside, then the intake manifold has to come off to get to the plugs and coil packs. It's a bit more labor. I can do it, but I'd rather not have to.
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2001 f 150 5.4 liter with it being code pops up saying cylinder one misfire, I've charge coil and spark plug ran great for awhile now starting to act up again. Got coil check and says still good and look at spark plug and looks still in good shape being just replace two weeks ago. It's running fine but if it sits over night and I get in and start it and begins to shake when I but it in drive and don't even need to move the truck just place it in drive with foot on break. I drive it awhile and it stops and runs fine?
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So I have a 2001 ranger 2.3l . Runs very rough at idle.code says misfire in cyl.#1. I have changed plugs, wires, coil packs all motocraft. I did a compression test..
#1.170
#2 180
#3. 185
#4 . 180
Compression seems fine,but where do i go from here? Anything else i can check/replace to solve this?
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I have a 2001 Ford Windstar Sports SE with 155K miles. I did a tune-up eight months ago. With the tune up I had to replace the fuel pump because it was defective. Later, I found that there were misfires occurring since I was getting slow acceleration. I had the spark plugs on the guilty cylinders replaced again and the spark plug wires.
Periodically, I have had to return to the shop to have the vehicle checked. I sometimes get a blinking check engine light while trying to accelerate, which now occurs only while it is raining or I am exiting the car wash. The shop is at a loss as to what it is (spark plugs and wires are fine, no lose connections noticed). I am wondering if I should take it to someone else. Of course, taking it somewhere else will cost me $100 to check on someone's else work.
The shop replaced the ignition coil. Distributor cap is fine. They keep saying that the engine is running fine while in the shop and do not get any codes. I had them drive it while it was raining and they discovered that cylinder 4 is misfiring. They worked on the cylinder. The vehicle runs well, until it rains or I wash it.
My questions to the group, "If everything is OK, how come it is misfiring? What are they missing? What is the connection to the moisture?"
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I have a 2001 F 350 with a V10 it keeps coming back as a misfire on cylinder 3 and 4.. I replaced all of the coils and plugs and pigtails I have even swapped out the coil packs from side to side and I still keep coming back with the same code. The truck has a bad check around 1500 RPM with a load on the motor mainly doesn't in overdrive and first starting off...
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I have my timing belt and oil pump replaced and after 2 days the car was misfiring. Had the throttle body clean and reprogramed and still the same issue. run all test and its ok. What the issue will be. I was told it can be the ICM but the mechanic says there is no way to test it.
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I have a misfire on 1 I recently changed intake and plenum gasket, changed plug, wire, injector, cap, rotor, compression check and pulled valve cover rockers moving good and I recently swapped injector wires on 1&3 only shows misfire on 1.
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I am trying to fix my friend's 03 Santa Fe 2.7L with 325K miles on it. Pulled the codes and he has misfire in #3, 6 and a random one. It doesn't do it all the time, and when it does do it he can sometimes shut it off and restart it and it will be fine.
What is the likely culprit causing the misfires and how to test it? He can't just throw parts at it.
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my dad has a 2001 Passat and he recently had his check engine light come on. We had it checked by a guy who owns a tester (snap on) and it comes up with a misfire fault on cyl #2. Wire looks good, I didn't have tools with me so I couldn't take a plug out, but do you think it could be a bad spark plug? Bad coil? Car has 89K on it.
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New to the VW world but I am not out of my element for I am a Porsche guy. So I feel right at home. Last night I picked up a 2001 wolfy Jetta with a 1.8t on the cheap with a misfire on cylinder 4.
I have verified I have no spark on 4. I have confirmed the issue is not the spark plug, coil pack by swap and see method. My coil pack and plug work fine on another cylinder. I reset my cels and here are the new ones that pop up:
a 121 - gas pedal position sensor- doubt this would give me a no spark
a 304- Misfire on 4, (duh, like I needed to hear that)
a 030- bank one 02 -Doubt this would also give me a no spark condition)
In my testing:
I have good system voltage on the coil pack
I have good ground ohms
My signal wire is not shorted high or low
When I take V and ohm readings on the coil pack connection, either with the ign on or off they are all in line with the other sensors. So I don't think I have a wire issue.
The PO had the ECU replaced at a local dealer. I looked at the old ECU and it appears it had got wet at one point.
Im wondering if the same thing hasn't happened to the new one. however after they replaced the ECU they gave him the car back still broken. So it never ran even with the new ECU.
1 Where is the ECU?
2 What tells the ECU to fire the coil packs at the right time?
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