Ford - Taurus :: 2000 - Scraping / Whirring Sound On Deceleration Only
Dec 15, 2014
So, I'm minding my own business pulling out of Starbucks with my gingerbread latte, making a nice and easy right turn when I hear "clunk" ("pop" maybe??). I hear a scraping/whirring sound on deceleration only (once I get past say 30-40 miles per hour). NOT brake related at all, occurs only when I let up on the accelerator. My baby is a 2000 Ford Taurus with 238,000 (yep, you read that right). I'm thinking transmission (and, I really want to be wrong). I've had the transmission flushed every 30,000 miles and serviced at 150,000 per Ford's maintenance schedule. I have taken very good care of my vehicle, but I do put a lot of miles on it every day as I drive 120 miles round trip to work 5 days a week.
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Bought a Jetta GLI 2004.5 in January. 94K miles. No noises accelerating or while coasting (clutch or neutral). However, when I decelerate in 3rd and 4th gear w/ no foot on gas, there is a very apparent whirring sound from the front-end (maybe in the engine bay). But I don't hear it while decelerating in any other gears. What is the cause? I will try and capture sound later when I get home. Just wanted to see if this was a common fault.
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Started getting a whirring / rubbing sound during deceleration and took it into dealer for diagnostics. They said driveshaft needs replacement. Fortunately they are covering under warranty but it's got me concerned about longevity.
I've got an APR Stage 1 ECU upgrade but otherwise stock. Not a track car and i'm not moonlighting at the drag strip dropping the clutch at 5000 RPMs to try and make into the 11's so am baffled by the issue.
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My "05" Prius has 164K, I'm the original owner and I have had great success with this car. I know some owners talk about the loud whining humming sound from the A/C unit which I am aware of but this newest sound is different and after 4 hours with a Toyota tech all they can come up with is an A/C compressor going bad. I only hear this sound after I reach 40MPH+ and then decelerate. It then winds down with the speed of the car sometime intermittently. If I accelerate it goes quiet.
I've also tried speeding up to 40MPH and then move into neutral. It will stop the noise. I'm adding a video and I realize there is standard road noise but if you watch my energy monitor you will hear the noise whirring winding when the green arrows point back to the electric motor. Pay close attention to the viseo frames at 13 seconds, 22 seconds and again at 29 seconds. Turn up the volume. Of course inside the cab it is much more pronounced. I'm finding it hard to believe this is an A/C compressor. Sounds more like an electric motor whining/whirring. I'm concerned about driving my car for safety reasons.
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I have two issues with my 2000 6.8L gas excursion. Neither seem to be causing any harm...
1st issue - While its raining, or even just really humid, on a cold startup, my truck runs rough. it almost feels like it wants to die, but doesn't. After about a 1000 feet down the road, it runs normal.
2nd issue - I've started noticing that almost always, I here a whirring type of sound coming from the back. It is not from the brakes, as they are new and the sound is best heard at a complete stop. The sound lasts for about 3 seconds and then repeats after a few more seconds. At first I thought it was the coolant circulating through the pipes that run to the rear heater unit, since the sound sounds a lot like fluid flowing through a pipe. However, my coolant level is normal and the system is tight and I have not had to add any since the only major overhaul in January. At idle, the engine sounds like it isn't idling at a constant rpm, but more like a slight up and down in rpm, but the amount is so slight, it doesn't register on the tach. The only other thing that comes to mind is the fuel pump. Is this sound a sound of imminent failure of the fuel pump? Or is it normal? The truck otherwise runs great at any speed and pulls my boat as well as I would expect it to.
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It's not entirely repeatable but only happens on tight left turns under deceleration such as a u-turn or turning left into a parking spot. The noise is a continuous whirring like a bit of plastic is rubbing the front passenger tire tread and continues for a moment even as I straighten the wheel out. I'm going to take the wheel off tomorrow to change my brake fluid and will take a closer look then. I'm on stock suspension and wheels.
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Here is a link to the audio [URL] .... It makes this noise, whether I'm at idle or running, granted it seems to be happen more when moving, its quite intermittent as it stops sometimes. I replaced the serpentine belt a month ago, so it can't be that. Its coming from the front of the engine. Sounds almost like the fan bearings or something below that is scraping. I've turned off the heater and it still does it, but the fan is spinning all the time, so I'm not sure what is going on.In the background you can hear cars going by on the overpass above, but I'm focused on the grinding noise. Car is not moving, its in park and makes the noise when moving also, with gas or at idle.
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The wife was stopped at a light in her 2006 S60 and when the light changed and she accelerated the car stalled and died. It would not start and thus I had it flatbedded back to the house. Id been told at the dealer during a service trip ($$$) that the alternator might be going bad as it was making a whirring noise and was given an estimate to replace it, the serperntine, pulley, etc.. of $1300. At the time it wasnt a driveability problem and being a working stiff I didnt have the 1300 to spend so I decided against doing the work. Thus, when the car stalled I figured it would be the alternator causing the problem and draining the battery.
I recharged the battery overnight figuring I could get the car turned on then remove one of the battery terminals to verify faulty alternator. However, car would not turn over, Id only get what sounded like a click from the starter. Fine, I figured, the alt killed the battery so I went and purchased a new one and installed it. Car would still not start and Id still get the click from what I believe is the starter. Tried the old bang the starter with a hammer and still nothing. Checked the connectors to the starter and all seemed ok.
At this point, the dreaded "my wife seized the engine" thought popped in my head. I then tugged a bit on the serpentine and noticed the crank turn slightly so Im pretty sure she didnt seize the engine. (fingers still crossed on that one).
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When starting in morning (even if weather is warm) or after car has sat for several hours, my 1999 Taurus makes a high-pitched whirring noise. Thought it was a loose fan belt, but mechanic said that was wrong. Have taken it to several mechanics and, of course, it doesn't make the noise after I've driven it there. Have to leave it overnight, which is HUGE problem as I don't live near public transportation. Noise occurs several times as I shift into DRIVE and then accelerate. After that, it disappears, then comes back again, if I leave it sit for several hours. One mechanical friend checked the tranny fluid and said it's fine. Also said it is probably not the tranny but didn't know what it could be. I took it to one of your recommended mechanics, but they couldn't find anything and said they didn't even hear the noise, although I did leave it overnight at their garage. (Won't go back there again.)
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I have a 2000 5.4 4x2 with about 118k. the pinion seal was leaking. I replaced the seal and added proper amount of 75/140 diff fluid as listed on the tag. I marked the pinion nut, flange and housing, so I could count the number of turns it took to remove nut. I put back the same but now I have a whine at low speed on deceleration. under normal throttle and at higher speeds it sounds just fine. Its just on deceleration and at 5mph or less. The sound was not there before I did the new seal.
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70's Ford 4x4 truck. I'm getting a very noticeable --- but intermittent, doesn't happen every time -- metallic scraping sound when turning right at slow speeds. Coming from the rear of the vehicle. Like in neighborhood driving. No unusual sounds when going straight. For the past week the problem seems to have gone away, so I'm playing this one by ear. Hopefully whatever it was has gone away. But I'm ever the worrier.
when it happens, it sounds like if I dragged a big sheet of metal on the road behind the truck. I'm sort of suspicious this sound is from the rear limited-slip differential. Could it be the diff clutches are corroded? Coming loose from their moorings? A differential bearing on the fritz?
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I hear a metal on metal scraping/screeching sound with the windows down and only when i drive by guard rails and other stuff sound reflects off of. I saw the traveling hub zerk thread and that's what made me think of it. I've zerked every fitting I've seen, but this ones new to me. Problem is I can't even tell witch wheel (if any) it's coming from. It's consistent with speed.
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Vehicle: 1998 F150, 158k mi. MT (M5OD), 4.9l I-6.
Description of problem: About 2 weeks/500 miles ago, truck developed a scraping/squeaking sound. I thought maybe something was rubbing on the driveshaft, but inspection revealed no likely candidate, nor disturbed metal on the shaft.
Over the course of the next 500 miles, it's gotten worse, so that current symptoms exhibit themselves (to one degree or another) 80% of the time. The symptoms are:
- Worst on first drive of day, on first mile.
- Sound produced somewhere between scrape and squeak.
- Vibration noticed throughout cab and through steering wheel ONLY when foot off clutch...smooth as soon as clutch depressed.
- Giving it a little gas (at constant speed) usually smooths out symptoms somewhat.
- Recently had bed loaded to gross. Vibrations went away, to return once bed empty.
- MT fluid found to be full, in good condition, and with 15k mi since change.
So, what's up? Given that a load in the bed improves things, I was thinking U-joints: but the driveshaft spins in neutral, too, so why would pressing the clutch change anything? I also thought about tired clutch bearings, but everything I've read says pressing the clutch makes things worse, not better.
Is it worth examining the tranny-to-engine bolts?
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My 2003 Ford Ranger started making a scraping noise a couple months ago - just a sort of quick metallic rasp that lasts no more than a second. It doesn't sound like a grinding noise - it's definitely a scrape, like if you dragged the edge of a shovel along some pavement. The sound comes from the rear of the truck. For a few weeks it only happened when I was driving uphill and making a sharp right turn at the same time. (My morning commute has one such right-turning hill, so I was hearing the sound every day at the same spot.)
A couple weeks ago, when the roads started getting really really terrible with potholes and frost heaves, the sound suddenly started happening more frequently. That same quick little metallic scrape happens almost any time I go over a big bump, and sometimes it seems to just be happening at random, even when the road isn't that bad!
What I picture when I hear the noise is that something in the undercarriage is loose, is briefly hitting the ground during sharp turns or jostles, scraping against the pavement and then bouncing back up. I've looked under the truck but I don't see anything that looks loose or dangly. My undercarriage is badly rusted, however, so it's not hard to imagine that something is swinging around that I just don't see when stationary. This could also be something in the wheels... but I don't know what.
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I'm getting a scraping sound on hard left turns. I've only noticed it on a steep hill where I work going under five mph and making a sharp left turn. I got out today and it doesn't look like the tire is hitting anything. The shield in front of the tire is slightly looser than the right side, but can't see it making the noise unless something is hitting it. I've read some previous posts that indicated traction control possibly coming on. I have about 4,000 miles, 20 inch tires, and everything stock.
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2000 Explorer 2WD. I had tons of front end issues that I have been working through. So far I have done upper control arms, upper and lower ball joints, tie rod ends, got an alignment. The steering/suspension system is in good shape now.
Now the only thing left is a scraping/grinding sound coming from the driver's side brakes. I mostly hear it at low speeds (taking off from lights, etc).
When I was doing all of the other work, I observed that the rotor is in great shape, brake pads look great. I am wondering if it is a caliper issue, maybe the caliper isn't releasing enough or something. What to check?
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I have a 2004 F150 4x4 Fx4 supercrew with 5.4 engine and 46,000 miles. For the past three weeks now I have a periodic Grinding /scraping sound that seems to be coming from the front passenger's side of the truck. It can come on with light driving and braking in town or start while driving 70 mph down the interstate without even touching my brakes. The thing is I just about always have to come to a complete stop to make it go away. 10 Minutes later it comes again. It's loud enough for everyone around me to start staring at my truck. Sounds like metal scraping concrete and gets deeper as I slow down and when I fully press my brake pedal it goes "curchunk and the sound is gone for a while. I thought maybe my caliper was sticking or maybe the truck is trying to go into 4x4. One friend even suggested me to check the dust cover behind the brake for rocks.
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2000 F250 7.3L ZF 6spd 4x4 regular cab long bed 253k
DP F6 chip, 4" exhaust, WW2, EBV delete
I run 5w40 Rotella Synthetic. Oil was changed about 1,000 miles ago. I also added a quart of Hot Shot stiction eliminator. I use Power Service and Stanadyne lubricity in every tank. Fuel filter is new.(motorcraft)
For a month or so its been acting weird. I get a stumble/miss/stutter, at random, but mostly under hard acceleration and high rpm (specifically approx 2500-2800rpm). It will also do it on decel when I lift after accellerating . Recently, I noticed it is also idling roughly. The engine is shaking and it feels like a miss. When it does its "thing" it sounds like a single "knock". Occassionally, it sort of sounds like an injector "buzzing". I've been using the "stock" tune for the last few weeks, to minimize any chance of engine damage, as I have to drive it. Turning up the chip makes the problems more noticeable and happen at a lower rpm. The truck has plenty of power, and pulls hard, except for the "stutter". If I hold my foot in it to "push through" the initial stumble at 2500 or so, it will keep going a few hundred more rpm, and then really start bucking.
There are no meaningful codes. I DO have:
EBV related soft codes - makes sense since its deleted.
Overboost related codes- from turning the chip up - won't happen in stock setting
A soft code for the back pressure SENSOR. I have a new one and will be cleaning the tube when I get a chance. I unplugged the sensor and it made no difference in the miss issue.
I have recently done the following in pursuit of a solution to all this:
New IPR (autozone) valve and pigtail
New ICP (motorcraft) and pigtail ( sensor had oil in it)
New CMP and pigtail. (2 actually. First a standard pc139 for the obs, and currently a Napa echlin correct for '00) No change. Although it initially had the dreaded Ford small head light grey sensor and failed cct for #3 & 8. After the cps change, it passed cct.
Accellerator Pedal Position Sensor. It would not read any higher then 3.95v at wot, and only 0.50v at idle, so I installed a new one. After adjusting it a little, I have 0.76v at idle, and 4.02 at wot. Didn't affect the stumble issue, but it seemed to greatly improve/eliminate my parking lot speed "bucking".
I just did the UVCH's. The passenger side was pretty much unplugged. But they all looked good. No burnt, melted,or chafed wires anywhere. I probably could have just plugged it back in, but I changed both sides with new Motorcraft parts anyway. I did the gaskets and the uvch, but not the engine side harness/pigtail, as they looked ok. I also did the 0.50 mod as a preventative measure. After seeing the unplugged harness, I really thought this would be the end of the problem, but its not. Very frustrated.
As a side note, I was surprised to see that I have 8 AD injectors, and not an AE in cyl 8.
I have an old outdated snapon scanner. Its only good up to '99, but I am able to scan my 2000 as a '99. I think I'm missing some pids though.
I can do cct and buzz test, but no PERDEL readings.
As far as ICP, it idles at about 450psi, at approx 12% IPR dc. On a brief 2nd gear wot run, it will hit (and hold as long as I have road to stay in it) a little over 2900psi, at 41-42% IPR duty cycle. I did notice, during these near instantaneous stumble events, ICP would flutter on the scanner about 75-100psi. Its almost too quick to even see it.
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Alright so car is a 13 R, bolt ons, c2 stage 2+. Drove the car yesterday morning all was good. Did an oil change and fixed my cts DV (the top nozzle had popped out, i glued around it as cts had suggested to hold it in place). At first the car was making an odd "weeee ooooo" sound on accel/decel. I went home, rechecked all couplers, vacuum hoses etc. then went for another drive, there is absolutely no boost. Car drives likes its naturally aspirated, no attempt to even go into boost just nothing. Ran vag com, no codes.
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Hearing a sloshing scraping thumping sound coming from their 36 gallon tank under hard braking accelerating? It's loudest when the tank is between 200 and 150 miles to empty, I checked the spare tire and its tight, haven't had a chance to crawl under and look around yet though, I think something inside came loose. 2013 XLT.
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Second gear, I am going 40mph and I let off the throttle and start engine breaking. My exhaust burbles and crackle a LOT. Now, I love the sound. But just want to make sure it is normal. I just took my rear seats out, so I am not sure if it is louder / there because of that, or its just a coincidence.
I read a thread a while back where a fellas intake changeover failed and it started doing that really loud as well.
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