Ford - Taurus :: 1999 - The O/D Light Indicates It Is Off
May 18, 2012
My 1999 Ford Taurus (140,000 miles) is giving me trouble. This usually happens when I have just driven off the freeway and now am driving in stop and go street traffic. The O/D light indicates it is off. The odometer stops working. The needle on the tachometer slowly accelerates. The speedometer remains stuck at zero. The engine sounds like it it straining to work.I fear that this is going to be an expensive repair; I hesitate taking it to my Ford dealership. My family's trusted auto repair shop technicians seem perplexed by this problem. They hint that this might have something to do with my turbo engine.
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I have a 99 Taurus with the airbag lite on. has 110,000 miles. had it in the shop and they said there is power up to the fuse box, but there is an "open" somewhere in the wiring. I have heard that the steering wheel is the most likely culprit.
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I just replaced the rear calipers on my wife's Taurus wagon (old ones were siexed) and bled the brakes as normal, but now the brake warning light is on and staying on. At first I thought it was the parking break, but it seems to work fine, (Tried setting the parking break while in motion and the car slowed quickly.) Its the first time I have changed the calipers on a car. When bleeding I did so until there were no more bubbles pulling about 8 oz from each side. The reservoir did get low but I don't think it emptied. Is it possible that I went too far and now have air in the master cylinder? How would I correct this?
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I changed my plugs a few days ago on my 96' Taurus GL 3.0LI checked under my hood to check the recommended gap size and it said .42 to .46.. I went with .46. after putting them in i started the car up just fine, but later in the day i noticed when I came to a stop at a red light my car would sputter and my check engine light would start blinking. When I'd accelerate and drive it again everything would clear up and the light would stop blinking. I didn't change the wires, just the plugs in case you were wondering but I am unsure of how much that would influence my problem. Today after work i had a little trouble starting my car. After a few tries it started and my exhaust smelt rich in gasoline. Did i gap them too much? Should i get new plugs again and regap them? should i buy new wires also?Is my ignition coil going bad?
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Just today I noticed an indicator showing up on my dashboard. The indicator shows the passenger side of the car, and a little screw coming out of it. I grabbed the giant book of boredom (Car manual) and the indicator is one for checking the gas cap and says once the gas cap is seated properly the light will go out.
I reseated the gas cap making sure it clicked when I turned it, and drove the car for about 45 minutes (My drive back home), and the light has continued to stay lit. What seems strange is that the check engine light is not showing up, which I know typically happens if the gas cap is not on properly.
Is there a sensor somewhere in the car that will cause that 'check gas cap' light to come on, and if so is it something I could find and replace myself, or am I better off going to a shop?
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I have a 1996 ford taurus dohc v6 147239 miles..when i get over 60 mph my overdrive light starts flashing and the car still drives find..i did have new transmission fluid and new fillter put in and the light was coming on before i did that and still comes on when i get over 60 mph.
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I have a 2003 Ford Taurus with over 117,000 miles on it. I use the car to get home from Texas to Florida about twice a year, but otherwise hardly touch it since I'm a college student. I've noticed lately that the car has been jumping when either waiting at a light or driving at lower speeds.
However, yesterday something strange happened. I was waiting at a light and the car started bucking more than usual. It was at night, so the dashboard lights started fading and the car stopped. The air and radio worked still after the car shut off, but the car wouldn't move. I tried cranking it, but it wouldn't crank. I pulled the keys out, cranked and it started it successfully. While it waited at the light it bucked violently. Then, when the light turned green it ran no problem like it normally does at normal speeds. When I got to my car parked at my place, I let it sit in the parking lot for five minutes running and it didn't buck once.
I am about due for an oil change. I haven't reached 3,000 miles yet, but my last change was in August. I've read a few other topics with similar problems on here and people have suggested transmission flushes. I did have my transmission fluid flushed at about 70,000 miles. Is it possibly due for another one?
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I have a 1996 ford taurus dohc v6 147239 miles..when i get over 60 mph my overdrive light starts flashing and the car still drives find..i did have new transmission fluid and new fillter put in and the light was coming on before i did that and still comes on when i get over 60 mph.
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How are they connected?
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I have 2001 ford taurus the transmission went out on me -as i started from stop light the transmission sounded like it was going into gear all the way I let off the gas and it went into gear this happened a few more times until i got on interstate and when i interstate no problems at all with transmission then I pulled off to go home and mre stop lights it acted same way then after a few more lights i gave it the gas from stop light and no forward gears i do have reverse is a sensor bad ...
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i have a 98 ford taurus and the other day it just stopped running at a stop light. After having it towed home I took out my jump pack and it started up and ran for like 15 mins and it shut off agen.i jump started it agen but when i took the jump pack off it stopped agen. What I need to look at?
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I have a Ford Taurus 2003 wagon. We bought it used in 2010. Initially we had the car checked out and only needed a transmission fluid flush because of a shift delay. We replaced the battery and oil changes for it on a regular basis. Last year, we had an issue where the engine would suddenly turn off while driving and then turn back on. The dealership said it was the synchronizer and replaced that. We also had then check out a burning scent and they said that it was from oil leaking from the engine.
I am not sure that they fixed what they said they did since it still smells and some times there is smoke or steam coming from under the hood on the right side near the windshield. A month later the car was still turning off while driving and the dealership said they didn't know why. We ended up taking it to Advanced auto parts and having the battery tested. The alternator needed to be replaced. We wasted a ton of money at the dealership... So mad about that and never going back there again. They clearly don't to a good job. We replaced the alternator.
So now, a few days ago, the abs and fuel lights came on while driving, and the radio also made a noise like an electrical surge type. ~10 minutes later I noticed smoke or steam coming from under the hood. What is going on with the car?
I am so anxious driving it since last year when the engine would turn off while driving. I have my baby in the backseat and I have already decided what to do if the engine catches fire. I want to get rid of this car and get a new/used one but my husband wants to keep it since it should be cheaper to fix then to get a new one. I don't want to spend a ton of money either, but I also want a car that will reliably drive us to work and daycare. Oh and of course the car works fine anytime when time my husband is driving it, but that is only on the weekends occasionally.
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I put a new ignition cylinder the key won't come out at all. I was told that the key needs to come out in order for them to code the key. How do I get the key out of the ignition??
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My Grandaughter's husband just HAD to install another radio and amp and speakers in his car. Now the speedometer won't work. Does that car have a speedo cable or is it electronic? It is not digital.
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My 1999 ford taurus station wagon has recently been stalling out while I'm driving. It happens usually after a 30-40 minute drive on my way home from school. There is no warning the car sounds great, and none of the lights come on. The car tends to stall either when I've braked to slow down for a light or I've stopped in general. Also it takes anywhere from 30 minutes to and hour before I can restart the car, after the stall if I try to start it, it sounds like its trying to catch but it cant. My mechanic is unable to figure it out and we both don't want to just start swapping out parts needlessly. My car has a V6 is a front wheel drive and has 93529 miles on it.
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I have a 1999 Ford Taurus and a month ago I replaced the V-belt (which I think is the serpentine) and had the transmission fluid changed. This past Monday (March 7, 2011) I drove an hour to work on the highway going 70mph for about 35 minutes then successively lower speeds as the weather was getting worse closer to town. When I parked the car, I noticed smoke coming from the grill at the front of the car. It did have a sort of burning rubber smell. The temp gage on the dashboard registered normal. So, what kind of repair am I in for?
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My 1999 Ford Taurus has been dying randomly at any given time. I have changed the fuel filter, top grade fuel, fuel cleaner, and it has thrown no codes. It will start and run, and I will drive down the road just a mile and the first thing that happens is the wheel locks up, the battery light comes on, then all others. It turns over and over and will not start, let it rest for a few hours and it will start again and do the same thing. some times it will go a few days with no problems, then it will go only a few minutes. Next thing on my list is change plugs and wires because I do not have much money so am just guessing at cheap things and hoping for the best. What this could be to make it stall at random times, not throw the engine light off?
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I came out from work this afternoon to a dead battery in my '99 Taurus. I saw nothing left turned on. I got a jump and went to Autozone two miles away. By that time there was enough charge to restart the car. My battery checked good, but they said the car had a 4-1/2 amp draw when it was shut off. The alternator still put out over 60 amps when reved up. That's good. Can a bad alternator on a modern car run the battery down? I know the old ones did sometimes, but I thought they "fixed" that aspect of them several years ago.
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The check engine light came on again after coming on about a week ago and then shutting of by itself. Everything seems to run normal with the car so I don't know if I should ignore the light and just keep driving or what. What would you do? My car is a 2011 Ford Taurus.
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So my car's emission systems light came on last Saturday and after work today I took it to the local Auto Zone to have an onboard diagnostic done to see what the code was, as some friends had recommended. I have a 2004 Ford Taurus with about 146,000 miles on it. It came back as only one code, P0456, which according to the clerk meant one of four things.
1.) Defective, loose, or missing fuel cap
2.) EVAP Canister Broke, hose cracked or not connected
3.) Purge or vent solenoid defective
4.) Vacuum leak at engine
I asked him if there was anyway to eliminate a few of these, but he wasn't sure and said I would have to take it to a dealer or a repair shop (which I expected). I was wondering any tips or tricks so I can eliminate a couple of these, and also if this is a five alarm fire I should be panicking about. I did call my Dad and he did not seem overly concerned about it. Plus my car is still running fine and the light has remained steady and not flashing. My friend at work suggested I put a piece of black electrical tape over it and ignore it, but I want to be sure it passes inspection in September.
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I have a 2001 ford taurus. just changed the engine with a used engine has 130k, did tuneup changing all spark plugs, wires and distributor cap. Also changed the 02 sensor upstream. And the check engine light remains on. if i start the car and it idles the check engine light flashes. but once i drive it, it just remains on. brought to the mechanic and he put on the machine and it reads that the problem is the 02 sensor upstream and the spark plugs misfiring. my mechanic is lost not sure what the problem is. someone told me it could be the manifold gaskets and pedlum gasket.
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