Ford - Taurus :: 1999 - Start To Shift Hard After Long Drive?
Mar 26, 2014
I have a 99 Taurus. Had the car about 2 and a half years. When I bought it the previous owner said he had the transmission rebuilt a year before,(he did have the repair receipt). Some times, not all, after you've you had to accelerate hard (like getting in a highway),or after a long drive, the car starts to shift hard. It also seems to go from first then neutral then second when taking off from a stop. A quick hesitation,rpm's go up a little,then shifts. I can park,turn the car off, sit a few minutes and it goes back to normal shifting. What this issue is? I thought about changing the filter and fluid,but I've known a few people that have done this while having issues, and the transmission went out soon after! I can't afford a rebuild! What to do? What to do?
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My 97 Taurus shifts hard going into 2nd gear only. It started as just a cold problem but now does it all the time and there are no computer codes stored.
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The problem I'm having with this vehicle is that, it will start up just fine most of the time if I just hop in my after and haven't drove it for a while, however after I drive lets say 20 min+ and then decide to turn the car off and go back to turn it on, it just wont, it will turn over and its getting power but it won't follow through to start the engine, took it to a place by my house for 3 days and they said its probably the fuel filter but they couldn't give me a straight answer, what it most likely is? Its a 2001 Ford Taurus...
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My 2005 Ford Taurus (3.0 liter engine, auto trans, 117K miles) recently began shifting hard (dropping suddenly, not smoothly) only on the 2-3 shift at 20 MPH. The check engine light is not on, and the car functions perfectly otherwise. A mechanic removed the trans pan, replaced the filter and fluid, and added Lucas additive. The interior of the trans was clean, and did not have a burned smell. The 2-3 shift did not improve.Could it be a valve body or a solenoid? Is it repairable? I drive it gently, and the problem hasn't gotten worse (2 months). What's up with my trans?
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'02 Taurus SES, 3.0L Vulcan, AX4N, 140K miles.
The car drove normally the other day, but now the transmission won't shift into drive. Actually, I've been able to get it to shift to drive by easing back on the accelerator, but it will shift back to the next lower gear as soon as you attempt to get back on the gas.
I dropped the pan today to check for metal fragments and found nothing out of the ordinary, just the normal graphite-like sludge around the magnet, maybe about 1/16" or so thick. This leads me to believe that the transmission has not (as of yet) begun to consume itself.
The OBD II is throwing a code of 0750, which is SHIFT SOLENOID A MALFUNCTION. Don't want to deceive myself in thinking this is something simple, but could this fix be as straightforward as going in and replacing the shift solenoid?
I did a little investigating (not sure if I came up with the correct info, though) and found some info regarding testing the solenoid coil resistance. Disconnected the trans harness and took some continuity readings between the pins. Here's what I was able to obtain.
PIN 2 to PIN 1 3.6ohms
PIN 2 to PIN 6 15.6ohms
PIN 2 to PIN 8 16.6ohms
If my test method is correct, these readings are showing that the coil associated with PIN 1 is weak.
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On Saturday I drove my truck 450 miles, all of it towing, in hilly New England. The turbo boost gauge was operating at 20psi or higher for many of the hills, and the 13mpg average was indicative of how hard the truck was working (normally empty I will get 20+). The next day, I drove it about 3 miles and it started a regen. Why? Wouldn't it have been passively regenerating for most of those miles? A steady 75mph for hours at a time?
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About once a week our 2011 Prius will start, but the "Ready" indicator does not come on and the car cannot be shifted into drive. Once this happens it takes several attempts, turning the car on/off, until it finally comes on "Ready." I cannot create the problem, but it may stem from pushing the start button before the brake is fully depressed.
Last night it took more than 5 minutes to get it going. I "reset" the car by exiting, locking, and re entering the car. Then it worked, that procedure caused it to work.
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Recently purchased a 99 F250 SD w/ V-10 Triton which purrs like a kitten and drives great until I turn it off and then re-start. It has trouble re-starting and then when started and put in drive...won't go anywhere. Zero power. Oddly, in reverse it goes. Getting decent flow from exhaust. No vacuum leaks I can find. No check engine light on either. Strange.
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I have a 1988 F150 which is in beautiful shape. My father in law had it since 1989 and had "babied that truck" according to him. So it's running great, has a mere 92,000 miles, is an automatic with 4X4 with manual shifter to put it into 4X4 or Low 4X4. Here's the questions: When driving in rear-wheel drive mode (I never drive it on the street in 4X4 - we don't get snow here in SC) it has developed a hard shift from first to second. It feels like it bumps when shifting. When empty it shifts at about 3200 RPM at average acceleration, which I think is a little high. Does RPM even matter when the shift occurs? Can the tranny be adjusted to shift at a lower RPM? Is my tranny about to go kerplunk? The transmission fluid was a tad low so I topped it off but that didn't seem to work.
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2011, 69,000 miles. My truck is experiencing very hard shifts from park to drive or park to reverse after a cold soak. It goes away once warmed up. I can't find any excessive driveline play and my transmission fluid level appears fine and in good condition.
The last repair done on my truck was around 7,000 miles ago and it was for a transmission fluid leak around the bell housing. They just replaced the seal between the torque converter and transmission.
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While the owner of 2 Ford Trucks, I also have a 2004 Ford Taurus with 28K on it. For a while now the vehicle is hard starting, cranks but acts like it is not getting fuel, however, I can hear the pump come on. Other times it starts right up, but a clicking sound can be heard coming from the firewall area. At times the gauges will not immediately respond when the Vehicle is started and then all at once they will begin to work. Now, my check engine light is on, but my hand held obd will not read it. All the terminal pins look great, obd tester works on my other two vehicles, cigar lighter working, the fuses i checked are good. Vehicle runs great. Can this all be related to a bad module?
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My wife called today after arriving at work letting me know she was having trouble shifting the car from D(drive) to P(park). I know the Gear box is set up in a stepped configuration. Sometimes its smooth shifting up to park and other times its not.
2011 Elantra Gls
Silver w/tinted windows
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This is wife typing in middle of trip. Today we drove almost 300 miles down the road before it stuttered. We lost the tach but nothing else. No check engine lights. It has done it a few times since. Watching with Torque and don't see anything there. Have 100 miles to go and it's happening more frequently. Replaced CPS 4 weeks ago with a Ford grey. Running down road it's 95 day. Oil was checked to be good at 211, transmission 182, EGT 790, pulling enclosed 6x12 cargo trailer. What can I check?
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My 6'4" hubby just got in my PriusV 2012 to use it and when he tried to shift into reverse, the parking brake was on and the anti skid icon lit up. It would not shift into drive. When I got in to see what was going on, after he turned it off, everything worked fine for me. It has never done this before but he rarely drives it. Is it possible he was mashing the regular brake pedal down too hard? He wasn't hitting the parking brake getting in or anything like that, I watched when he tried a second time.
We kept trying but he ended up taking his truck instead (which I was washing for him) I know on a couple occasions making fast, hard turns into our driveway I have lit up the anti skid icon but other than some extra braking action it has not caused a problem. And once while stopped at a light and reaching for something in the back seat, I lit it up, but I forget what the car did. I was mashing the pedal down hard as I reached back. I assume in both cases the car thinks I am getting in a wreck and is taking action.
Of course, I just finished washing it but there is no chance it's anything with that? I moved it from the front yard to the back and had no issues before he tried to use it. Anyway, I had this thought about pressing the pedal too hard after he left and here I am asking.
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I have a 2003 Saturn Ion-3 that I bought a few months ago. It has 157,000 mile and runs great when it will start. Here is the issue: after the car has sat for several hours it seems to flood and starts hard. I end up putting the accelerator to the floor and this seems to work. I have to crank the engine repeatedly and when it catches I hold it to the floor until the engine clears (lots of chugging and white/blue smoke until it clears) and then runs just fine. If the car sits for a short period, it starts ok. The longer it sits, the harder it is to start (i.e overnight or a whole shift at work).
If the car sits for several days it starts just fine. It acts as if it floods while it sits so I changed the Coolant Temp Sensor, still acted up. I then checked the fuel pressure at the schrader valve (55 psi) and noticed that it lost pressure as it sat. I assumed that the injectors were leaking and had them rebuilt (by Mr Injector). The flow bench results did not show and leaking. I reinstalled them along with new spark plugs and the car started up immediately and ran/drove great. This morning was the first morning of sitting all night and it would not start again. It tries to fire but will not catch. I tired to have the CEL code read at autozone but they told me my lighter wasn't working and the couldn't do it (although it runs my GPS just fine).
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I own a really nice original ' 89 Chrysler Lebaron coupe with the 2.5 N/A, throttle body injection and 3 speed automatic. It has just over 100k miles. The car sits in the garage all the time and is not used during the winter months and is never used in the salt season. I do "try" to start it sometimes just to keep the battery up. The problem is when I want to start it, especially after sitting for a while, often it will crank and crank but won't start. It's acting like it has no gas. When I take the aircleaner lid off and dump a little gas in, it fires up just fine then runs perfect after that. Even after it has been used as a daily car after that, when I shut it off, sometimes it will start just fine, other times it won't, then I have to use the gas can again. It has a mind of it's own. When you think it will restart, sometimes it won't. I've been keeping a little gas can in the trunk in case it does happen at odd times. With the gas can, it will always restart. I've talked to a few shops about this, they have no idea what might do this. Naturally, when I brought it in to show it to them, it would ALWAYS restart for them. Getting rid of this car is not an option for me, I love the car, except for that part of it.
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We have a 2012 Nissan Altima. There have been 3 times that it would not start -all times were after a long drive and a trip to the coast! Battery is fine. Nissan dealership could find nothing wrong. Why this is happening ? Is it possible this is a censor /salt problem?
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Lately my '03 1.8t with 90k has taken to long cranking before firing.Once it fires, it runs rough for about two seconds and then smooth as usual. Thought it might be Fuel pump relay but I'd think that'd show a fault light. Same with Fuel pump?No faults showing up. Plugs changed 9k ago. Only run Premium Shell.
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My truck is 2001 F250 with the 7.3 I have AFE intake, TS 6 position chip, Stage 1 Auto Tranny, 4in Exhaust all the way down. New glow pugs as of last week as well as uvchs and gp relay. Also has a new hpop line. New compression sleeves for fuel lines, riff-raff fuel banjo bolts and fuel pressure regulator.
I am having a hard start issue no matter what the temp is outside, unless it plugged in. Once it starts its good unless it sits for more than 5 hours.
Batteries have tested good, glow plugs ohm at 1.3, gpr 12.83 at batt side- once on it 11.9. All fuses are good. HPOP res is showing at about 3/4" down from top.
***Wires going to the MAT sensor are showing through at the connector, not sure if this could be a problem...if so why???
****Noticed some oil in the ICP, cleaned and unhooked will check start tomorrow to see if this works with long start as truck is plugged in.
Will also be putting a new fuel filter in and double checking oil level in the am. I do not have a scanner tool and am doing the best I can before I take it in to ford to diagnose.
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Car does not have to get wet, just be in humid air. Problem going on 2 years now, mechanics tried disconnecting a (?) ground/sensor from computer, major tune up, new fuel pump. Until recently, it just took keeping it in crank position for a long time for it to finally start. Recently, in crank position for 30 seconds does nothing and has me worried I'm doing damage. In dry weather, it starts first time every time.
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Every time I hit a hill, loaded or empty, or get on the truck on level ground after about 15 seconds it acts like it's running out of fuel. The pump starts getting noisy like it has air in it, but it'll straighten out eventually. If you don't let off the fuel it'll eventually stall out. No check engine light, no codes. Truck has a ts chip but it does it on all settings. New fuel filter, changed oil with hot shots secret, new air filter, hutch mod done. I'm at a loss for what to do. Good fuel pressure also.
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