I have a '99 Ford Taurus that was hesitating and sputtering while driving. I had the fuel pump replaced about a week ago thinking my problem was solved. Lo and behold, while driving about 50mph and trying to pass vehicles, my car started doing the same thing. It acts as though I have bad fuel or there is dirt somewhere that is entering my gas line.
View 5 RepliesI have a problem in the form of a 2000 Buick LeSabre Custom with the GM 3800 series II engine. After 245k miles, it has begun to show it's age in some very unaffectionate ways. It has been stalling, sputtering, hesitating, and unwilling to start at seemingly random intervals. And, such is my luck, there has been no 'check engine' light on at any point during this saga. Here's the chronology of events spanning 6 months:
The first symptom I experienced was occasional sputtering, mainly while going uphill. This began to occur shortly after the spark plugs were replaced during regular maintenance. So I replaced the spark plugs again, and also the wires, fuel filter, and fuel pressure regulator. Plus I gave the MAF a good cleaning.
But the problem persisted, and grew to include intermittent stalling when I would come to a stop. Undaunted, I replaced the ignition coils, and swapped in a used ICM.
The car, obviously displeased with my choice words toward it, began to not start every now and then. It would just crank to no avail. So I would try again after an hour or two and it would immediately start as if nothing was wrong. Fearing that I or my wife could be left stranded I replaced the fuel pump. It continues to stall every once in a while and it still sometimes sputters at low rpms. A lot of times it just wont idle at a constant speed.
So then I replaced the crank sensor and I cleaned the camshaft sensor too. Guess what? It's still intermittently sputtering/hesitating when I accelerate from a stop. And I have noticed that it will also sputter while idling in park as well. It's like it's misfiring, but with no engine codes. I'm not happy.
I have an 2004 treg V10. I put in diesel yesterday morning(10/13/2010). I went to work, everything was fine. On my way home I started feeling a slight hesitation and sputtering in the motor. It's something that I noticed but didn't give much thought. 10 minutes into the drive and the sputtering became more noticeable. To the point where I would floor the pedal and the treg wouldn't go anywhere, it felt like all the power got drained from the motor. I came to a stop, and listened the engine, no noticeable change in engine noise. Everything seemed fine, but the truck was sputtering every time I would press the gas pedal. I parked the truck for the night and forgot about it.
Now this morning. Driving around in some local streets I def felt like something was off with the truck, it felt like it had a V6 not a V10. took it on the highway and opened her up, car took way too long to get up to speed and once it reached 90 MPH it didn't want to go any faster, it just stayed there. I took an exit off the highway and stopped at a light and the car sputtered and hesitated and eventually stalled at the light. I tried re-starting the truck and it was just stay in the crank position. The battery light came on. I tried starting it again and it would just remain in the crank position. It eventually turned over and started after cranking it for about 5 or 6 times. But the car is still sputtering a bit.
I changed the spark plugs in my daughters 2003 camry, and now it is sputtering and and hesitating. is there a chance I put them in to tight? The check engine light is on, and it will start blinking for a few seconds and then stop blinking and remain on when the car gets up to speed. The car wasn't doing this before the sparkplug change.
View 9 RepliesRecently my car has been sputtering a bit after I start it. It starts fine, but it sputters like it is going to run out of gas, but it's always at least 1/2 full.
To get it to stop I have had to pull over, turn it off, and restart it after a few minutes of running, then I haven't noticed anything again until the next morning when I start it again.
One time it turned off by itself when I stopped it and put it in park.
If at all possible we'd like to repair it ourselves, but we are not sure what could be wrong.
Our thoughts are: clogging/clogged fuel filter or spark plug issues. What could be causing this sputtering?
Again, it is not constant, as after restarting I continue to drive almost 60 miles to work, then back home in the evening with no issues yet. It has stopped once, but never while moving.
1996 Ford Taurus 3.0L EFI DOHC 6cyl...... Every time I try to start the car it want start less I push on the gas pedal... Then its start to sputter really bad then dies.. I put new spark plugs in and new spark plug wires.. I do hear the fuel pump turn on... Car has about 147000 miles...
View 13 RepliesMy 1999 ford taurus station wagon has recently been stalling out while I'm driving. It happens usually after a 30-40 minute drive on my way home from school. There is no warning the car sounds great, and none of the lights come on. The car tends to stall either when I've braked to slow down for a light or I've stopped in general. Also it takes anywhere from 30 minutes to and hour before I can restart the car, after the stall if I try to start it, it sounds like its trying to catch but it cant. My mechanic is unable to figure it out and we both don't want to just start swapping out parts needlessly. My car has a V6 is a front wheel drive and has 93529 miles on it.
View 3 RepliesMy 1999 Ford Taurus has been dying randomly at any given time. I have changed the fuel filter, top grade fuel, fuel cleaner, and it has thrown no codes. It will start and run, and I will drive down the road just a mile and the first thing that happens is the wheel locks up, the battery light comes on, then all others. It turns over and over and will not start, let it rest for a few hours and it will start again and do the same thing. some times it will go a few days with no problems, then it will go only a few minutes. Next thing on my list is change plugs and wires because I do not have much money so am just guessing at cheap things and hoping for the best. What this could be to make it stall at random times, not throw the engine light off?
View 2 RepliesIt started completely unexpectedly about a month ago when I was driving around 70kmh while cruising. I would get a few "jerks" of a sputter, then was able to drive a km or 2 before it did it again. I drove to a friends and he got in, and the sputtering episode was over.
Since then, I cannot simulate the way I was driving to make it sputter for any mechanic, but I have been getting sputter on and off the last month.
The one time I got in the truck and started it, put the truck in drive, and it sputtered for a few seconds. I wasnt driving at all this time. This was the only time It sputtered in a stading position.
Here are a few points to maybe, narrow down what happens.
-I am usually driving around 70-90kmh
-I am usually under no loads (not towing, hauling etc).
-My mileage seems to be getting worse.
-this was normally happening not only when the engine was warm, but when it was warm outside and I was driving it for a longer period.
-When I started driving my truck I calculated around 16mpg city. I am currently getting around 13-14. I was on the hiway for around 250 km and got 14mpg. Seems I get better mileage when puttering through the city than when I am on the highway.
I had the truck in to a dealer 2 weeks ago. They did an injector flush, new sparkies, number 5 coil, and took me for $780, saying the problem is fixed.
A few days ago, I was driving on the onramp to the highway accelerating around 90kmh and for around 4-5 seconds I was sputtering and jerking so bad I thought I was done for. The truck finally recovered and again, haven't had any episodes since.
The dealership says their electrician doesn't know what to do, and would need my truck for 4-5 days to try to see the problem for himself. I can only think, as a non-mechanic, that it is something to do with some sensor, possibly a fuel, and/or oxygen sensor.
2005 F-150
4.6
88000km
gas
My 05 Cherokee has begun to jerk while driving. It's only just a jerk or two and then it smoothes out and drives fine. It only happens while driving never from a stop.It is also hesitating a little while starting. It always starts but I have never had this problem before. Not sure if the two issues are related or not but thought I would mention it.
View 16 RepliesI have a 97 Jeep Cherokee with a 4.0 V6, fuel injected, 4 wheel drive with a 5 speed. It has developed a stuttering or a hesitation at times while driving. It's hard to describe, but feels like the engine is not getting fuel or air at short quick bursts, thus a stuttering feel.
Some things I've noticed: It happens mostly when the engine is cold, but can happen any time.It seems to be worst during rain or snow.At low throttle, it can cause the whole vehicle to shudder violently and at full throttle (gas pedal down for acceleration) it is very noticeable but doesn't seem to cause the vehicle to shudder as hard. I think I hear a metallic pop or clack when it happens, especially at high throttle. It doesn't seem to matter what gear I'm in.It doesn't matter whether I'm on a flat or a hill. It doesn't seem to matter what speed I'm going, but it is a little harder to notice cruising along at 65.
Maintenance History: The vehicle has had several things replaced in 2011: Alternator, crank position sensor, relay on the ASD, serpentine belt, spark plugs, plug wires, cap and rotor, battery, engine compartment fan.
The vehicle went into the shop when it started dying at stop lights or stop signs and starting hard. The diagnosis was the crank position sensor and that did indeed seem to fix that problem. Within a few days, however, the vehicle started running rough and would come close to stalling when idling at a stop. My mechanic sprayed a bunch of cleaner down into the air intake part of the engine (a part that reminded me of the butterfly valve on a small carburetor). The problem went away, but this stuttering problem started up about a day later.
I have an '03 Jeep Grand Cherokee that has twice had issues with hesitating while driving (like it's not getting gas--tank is full), then starts rattling, then dies. I had it towed to the shop 3 weeks ago. "loss of cam or crank sensor misfire codes found loose connection at pcm, connector 4, re-attach connector to lock position, erase codes". Picked it up after work was done. When driving it to work two days ago, the same exact situation presented. Had it towed again to shop. They're saying they ran it all day and cannot get any codes to come up and that 90% of the time it's the cam sensor. He also said 1/3 of the time (math issues) it's the computer. How can you know if it's the cam sensor or the computer?
View 6 RepliesSo i have a 2005 Sonata GLS and it has been giving me issues. A week or so ago, the 'check engine' came on so I took it to the shop to have it fix. Problem fix, no more light popping up. Now two days ago, the car all of a sudden started stalling and hesitating while I was driving. I kept pressing the gas and the car will accelerate to 40 before slowing down to 20 and the acceleration will then drop as well. I had a mechanic look at the issue and he said it was the throttle position sensor. He changed the sensor and its still acting up. He said to buy the carburetor cleaner and it worked fine for a hour until we drove it again. The problem is still not fix.
View 3 RepliesI drive a 1999 Ford X V8, 189,000 miles and it's been a great car. Lately tho, and in particular when the temperature is above 90, it begins to miss, hesitate, then jerk forward all at once. Some times, when the accelerator is depressed, NOTHING happens. No response form engine at all. This can last three seconds of so, then the car will lurch forward. I have done a 180,000 mile complete tune up, a, fuel induction system service, replaced the Mass air flow sensor and checked all points, plugs, new air filter, etc. Still, the problem persists.
View 3 RepliesI just bought this car from a estate has a hundred and ten thousand miles. I'm a postal the mechanic that works mail trucks and have not worked on any issues like this before.
After driving when I park it in the garage. it sounds like it's hot but there is no smell there is a sound every few seconds until something cools down. at least I think this is what the noise is. dual overhead cam engine.
Hesitation while driving mostly in city traffic.....
View 5 RepliesWhat is the cause of my 2007 Ford Taurus that sporadically shuts off while driving? This problem started to occur about a year ago when I was stopped at a light. Then it would start to shut off while driving around town. The problem now occurs when traveling 70 mph on a highway which is dangerous. I typically see the theft light, airbag light, etc. come on and the wheel locks up. IF I quickly turn off my radio and air or heat (not set on full blast) then the car typically returns to normal driving.
If I do not turn off these items quickly then the car completely dies and I have to restart the car - so far the car has always restarted. This problem is quite sporadic - can be morning, night, been driving for 10 minutes or 40 minutes. It can happen one time and then not again for many months or it can happen 5 times in one day. I have taken it to 3 auto-mechanics (this last one being the Ford dealer). They have checked the keys, key fobs, alternator, never throwing a computer code, etc. I have driven it to the mechanic as soon after it happens and no computer code thrown. This is getting quite dangerous and about ready to sell the car.
I have a 2002 7.3 160k miles and recently it has been hesitating while cruising along at 35mph roughly. In park right off idle the engine does shake but if i give it a little more pedal the shake clears out. Not sure if that has anything to do with my issue but im just throwing it out there. Anyways cruising down the road the truck will hesitate almost like its not getting enough fuel the engine bogs then picks up then bogs and picks up but it i give it more pedal the truck gains speed and the issue stops and i can resume cruising at say 45 and not feel this hesitation at all.
On the toll road i never feel the hesitation cruising at 2k rpms. A problem that might of lead me to this issue was in the winter below 30 degrees i would drive the truck get to a stop light engine still cold or maybe warming up off the cold mark but when i go to take off from a light its like my fuel pedal doesn't work but the rpms will climb a little then the truck takes off and jerks really hard since i had the engine rev'd up. which made me think throttle sensor immediately or maybe the trans is having issues. since its warm out I don't have that issue now so i believe that it the trans. do you think maybe my hesitation now is also the trans? I never get a CEL. I did recently change the coolant temp sensor and now i am having this hesitation issue.
But I was told the ECM does not care about coolant temp on an auto truck so i dont see how that could affect my performance. Instead the autos monitor oil temp and the manual trucks monitor coolant temp correct? I had an issue like this with the truck years ago when i purchased it i was leaving the gas station on very cold maybe 10 degree day and the truck fell flat on its face and threw a bunch of codes but i let off the throttle and got back in it and it took off like nothing happened. So im not convinced the coolant temp sensor was defective from factory. But this old problem of not accelerating seems to be coming back to haunt me.... and i think its in a new form with the hesitation once in a while. I think i forgot to mention the hesitation isn't all the time!
This happened a year ago. We got it running after a few minutes, and had the fuel filter changed before continuing on the highway again. It ran fine for the remaining 2 hours of the trip. I looked online and saw this as an issue, but no one knows why. It was suggested to take a break after 2 hours, and that has worked until 2 days ago, when it stalled an hour after the break, then restarted after some time and made it the next 1 1/2 hours home no problem. Each time it stalled, the air temp had been in the high 90's.
View 2 RepliesI recently bought a 1997 Ford Taurus. It ran fine when I got it but the third time I drove it, it started acting up. I was driving down the highway and I noticed it was missing a little bit. Then about 10 minutes later it started not being able to keep up speed. It just seemed to kinda bog down or something when I gave it more gas. The longer I drove the slower it would go until it eventually stopped. I took it to a mechanic and he said it was a cam sensor and cam synchronizer or something like that. When that didn't fix it he said it was the fuel pump and filter, which didn't work either. Took it to another and he said to try changing spark plugs and then coil pack after that didn't work. It runs fine when I first start the car but the more I push the accelerator the faster it starts bogging down.
View 15 RepliesI have a 92 Ford Taurus that runs warm, can overheat, especially in city driving. When driving at faster speeds with less stopping does not give any trouble. The radiator is full. I tried putting a new thermostat in and it overheat just the same. I took it out and it would run warm but not overheat. I flushed out the tranny. There are not leaks. Seems like water will come out to easy from the radiator cap. Thinking maybe it is blocked up some inside the engine. Can a water pump be kicking in and out at lower RPM's
View 15 Replies