Ford - Taurus :: 1999 - Dies While Driving At Will
Sep 12, 2014
My 1999 Ford Taurus has been dying randomly at any given time. I have changed the fuel filter, top grade fuel, fuel cleaner, and it has thrown no codes. It will start and run, and I will drive down the road just a mile and the first thing that happens is the wheel locks up, the battery light comes on, then all others. It turns over and over and will not start, let it rest for a few hours and it will start again and do the same thing. some times it will go a few days with no problems, then it will go only a few minutes. Next thing on my list is change plugs and wires because I do not have much money so am just guessing at cheap things and hoping for the best. What this could be to make it stall at random times, not throw the engine light off?
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My 1999 ford taurus station wagon has recently been stalling out while I'm driving. It happens usually after a 30-40 minute drive on my way home from school. There is no warning the car sounds great, and none of the lights come on. The car tends to stall either when I've braked to slow down for a light or I've stopped in general. Also it takes anywhere from 30 minutes to and hour before I can restart the car, after the stall if I try to start it, it sounds like its trying to catch but it cant. My mechanic is unable to figure it out and we both don't want to just start swapping out parts needlessly. My car has a V6 is a front wheel drive and has 93529 miles on it.
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I have a '99 Ford Taurus that was hesitating and sputtering while driving. I had the fuel pump replaced about a week ago thinking my problem was solved. Lo and behold, while driving about 50mph and trying to pass vehicles, my car started doing the same thing. It acts as though I have bad fuel or there is dirt somewhere that is entering my gas line.
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My 1999 ford windstar died last month while driving. No signs no symptoms just shut off while driving. Towed it to a mechanic paid $400 for a new fuel pump. I get it back and still having problems. The van dies while driving at any speeds. I've had it shut off when starting to stop at stop signs and I've had it shut off while driving 60. Each time I put it in park it starts up just fine. I took it in to get a computer check and all that it said is rich fuel. So they told me o2 sensor. Two mechanics have informed me o2 sensor would not cause those problems.
Recently someone told me ignition coil was their problem on a truck they had having the same problems. So I watched a YouTube video and I think I can do it myself. Let me just say I don't know anything about cars but it looks simple and I am not willing to sink money on mechanics that clearly themselves can't figure out the problems. Am I right to change the coil or do any of you think it might be something else? I don't want to waste my time if it's not the coil. I have had this van for 3 months. I got for $800 and have now paid about $800 in repairs. Its a good van but im Not paying out more so from here on out this is my let's learn about fixing my own car car. I've read some threads about also changing the spark plugs or the coil will break again I'm also think I can do that as well. Again do you think this is the right track or is it maybe something else.
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1996 Ford Taurus 3.0L EFI DOHC 6cyl...... Every time I try to start the car it want start less I push on the gas pedal... Then its start to sputter really bad then dies.. I put new spark plugs in and new spark plug wires.. I do hear the fuel pump turn on... Car has about 147000 miles...
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I have a 1996 ford taurus lx 3.0 v6 engine dohc about 150000 miles..when i start the car about 5 mins the car dies..so i start it back up then it dies again.. So I start it back up then i keep my foot on gas the car stays running as soon i take my foot off gas it dies. I did have a new fuel pump in..
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For the past couple months every now and again the power dies in my car for merely two seconds, then flickers back on and I can accelerate again. Just the other day the car completely turned off and all the lights on the dash lit up. I had to break and restart the car in the middle of the road. What is the problem here and how cheap will it be to fix?
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My 1997 F250, 4x4, 460, auto has started dying with no warning while driving from 5 to 30 miles. Changed the fuel filter and the fuse under the hood. Where to start.
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I have a 2005 Ford F-350 with the V10 4x4. I was backing out of the driveway and it just died. I stopped put the truck into park and it wouldn't crank. The dash lights up and everything else works but the truck will not crank. I continued to attempt to start it and eventually it turned over and ran. It has been doing this intermittently for a couple months but never this bad. I've taken it to mechanics and nobody has been able to rectify.
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I have a 2002 ford excursion. I know they have cali emissions. It runs fine then suddenly dies while driving. We've replaced the glow plug switch and relay. Neither one fixed the problem. we washed the motor a while back and it fried the programmer wiring.
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Like the title says my truck has been stalling while driving. Accelerating or cruising it dies for a second, two at the most, and then just keeps chugging along again.
I thought i'd fixed the problem last year when I did injector O-rings and 50 cented my UVCH. It hadn't done it since, until two days ago. Started out with a two good solid stalls while gently accelerating up hill. I had thought maybe my fuel pickup foot had finely given up the ghost because I was below a quarter tank. But I filled her up full, and then she did it again about 50 miles of driving later.
I didn't catch the first four stalls on my torque app, because I'd just recently decided to stop logging every trip, with the thinking that it had been half a year problem free, why keep logging waiting for something that isn't going to happen. I did catch the 5th stall on the torque log. But I'm having trouble trying to figure out where it happened in a 30 min log.
First question where would yall start in tracking this thing down? Next what data actually should be logged? I think I've got some extra stuff in my logs that isn't necessary, and is maybe bogging down the system. I get one data point per second resolution on my logs. Are there ways to improve the resolution, will getting rid of some PIDs work?
Lastly I need to attack this thing smartly, without throwing time and money at unneeded parts. I had surgery and I've been out of work for 3 months and I'm looking at another 6 before I'm making money again, and there is no unemployment for the self employed. Also I only get 3-4 light weight upright hours a day to work, exceed that and I'm back on the couch battling swelling for a week.
Also is there anything I can do while driving to "flag" the stalls so I can find them more easily in the logs?
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My truck is an 02 F250 7.3 with 280,000+ miles on it, so I wouldn't be surprised if I might have a number of things going wrong. It runs pretty good, but is still far from 100%, at least up to my standards. So the problem has been going on for the last two or three weeks and got worse today, and there were a few things leading up to it as well. I'll start off with the first thing that happened that I think might be related. It was about 6 months ago, my buddy and I were putting my new headlights in.
It was parked in his garage and we backed it out a little bit to try and adjust them. It was sitting there idling for a minute or two and just shut off or almost stalled out. Tried to restart it and it wouldn't start, tried multiple times to no avail. It acted similar to when I had glow plug troubles when I first got the truck, it would just crank and crank, but never actually kick over and start, along with putting white smoke out the exhaust. Ended up waiting about a half hour and then the truck fired right up with no problems after that, so I didn't think much of it.
Then fast forward to last week to when something similar happened. Started it up after sitting for a few days, started right up, idled for a few seconds and then just shut off. Started it back up ran for a second and died again. Tried a third time with the same result. Fourth time fired right up again and stayed running, let it run for a few minutes and was fine. Also along with this, there was a bad squeaking coming from the front of the truck, like what a belt would sound like. I have recently replaced the belt because it was squeaking and actually got chewed up and almost shredded completely apart.
So not sure why it is squeaking again, but not sure if this could be related or not. Then took it back to my dorm room to get my stuff, and then made it the hour or so drive home from school, without issue. Even went to a few stores before I went home, and shut the truck off and started it back up multiple times, again with no issues. When I drove back earlier this week it was fine until I got there and put it in park. It idled for few seconds and then cut out for a second, but then idled back up and continued to run fine. It has done that a few times as well. So it will do it on a cold start or after already fully warmed up.
Then it got worse today. Again had trouble starting it cold, same as what I explained early. Except second time cranking it wouldn't start at all, then on the third crank it started up and stayed running. But on the drive home is when it got worse. About 5 or 10 minutes into my drive, was just cruising doing at about 45 or 50, and truck just shut off, died/stalled out. It cut out and shut off for a second or two and then started itself back up and continued on like nothing happened. It scared the crap out of me the first time it happened, I was waiting for something like that to happen, but still wasn't quite ready for it.
The truck acted just like it would before you start it, with the key on, dash lights worked and the radio still worked. It did this 4 more times in similar ways, would die and then start back up, at various speeds and at roughly 5 or so minute intervals. I decided to just keep going as long as the truck would start and stay running, hoping to make it home. It did it a fifth time and this time the truck completely shut off and wouldn't restart itself. It was hard to see, as I was watching a few different things at one time, but I think it tried to restart, I noticed the tach bounce between 200-400 RPMS and then die. So I had to pull over and then restart it, fired up and drove fine. That was about half way home, and I made it the rest of the way home without any more problems.
So obviously I'm wondering what would be causing the truck to do this? I've done some reading and have a couple ideas, but not really for sure on anything. I was thinking maybe the CPS, I think it can cause a no start issue. Could ICP or the ICP sensor have something to do with it? I was also thinking maybe something fuel related, such as fuel pressure or a bad fuel pump. Any of those sound to be on the right track?
I have the torque pro app, but not exactly sure how to use it yet, and also just got access to my Uncle's Snap-on scanner, so I ran some tests and pulled some codes. How to more utilize these tools in diagnostics. I did get a few codes, but I'm not exactly sure how they might be related. The codes are pulled are:
P0470 Exhaust Pressure Sensor Circuit Fault. Just cleaned that out as well as the tube about a year ago, but I guess could be clogged again or has gone bad.
P1274 Cylinder 4 (E) High to Low Side Open. Did some reading and figured out that this could be UVCH related. At the same time, about a year ago, did new injector O-rings as well as all new Motorcraft UVCH's, so can't imagine that one is bad. Or that one could be loose, I would have guessed it would have happened more when I first did them, not a year later, but who knows.
Also pulled P1876 T-Case 2wd Solenoid Circuit Fault. Not sure if this is related at all, but also not sure what it means either. I read that it could be ESOF system related, which I do have, but I have manual lockout hubs, so maybe that's why it throws the code.
Also a few things that may or may not be related, but I think worth noting. Ever since I've had the truck the check engine light will pop on and off sometimes. It will do it on a cold start or, when I first start driving and its not fully warmed up yet. It does it most when the engine is still cold, and it almost never comes on once the truck is fully warmed up, but has came on and off more frequently lately. When driving, it will only stay on for a few seconds and more often when I'm lugging the engine or at lower rpms, and will commonly shut off if I let off the throttle.
I don't think it really comes on at higher rpms. I also have a slight oil leak in the valley of the engine, seems to maybe be coming from the front of the motor. Nothing too serious, leaves a small puddle where I park, loses enough to be at the add mark, a little before an oil change. Changed the oil about 1500 miles ago and have been able to notice a slight drop in oil level. Also I have changed the fuel filter in the last 500 miles.
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My 2002 F250 7.3 randomly dies while driving and seems to only be when I hit a bump no matter the size. I have checked the valve cover harness connector outside of the valve covers and they look fine. I checked the ECM connection took it off and reconnected it.
Changed the CPS censor twice, checked the ICP sensor, checked continuity of all the glow plugs through the valve cover harness. Checked the fuel pump, checked all related fuses, changed the fuel filter, checked glow plug relay, batteries hold good voltage and were recently upgraded to bigger batteries.
Engine runs just a little rough but not enough to be of concern. Air filter is clean and oil level is perfect. What could possible be causing my truck to randomly die when it hits a bump and not start back right away??? This truck is new to me and its the first diesel engine I have ever owned.
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Does it every time. It started suddenly out of the blue. Start it up if i leave town i get 3 or 4 miles out if ni stay in town i might get back home from post office if i hustle. Let it sit 10 or 15 minutes and it will start again for 4 or 5 mins. again. I have replaced the distributor the whole unit and replaced the ignition switch, both parts are new.
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I just bought this car from a estate has a hundred and ten thousand miles. I'm a postal the mechanic that works mail trucks and have not worked on any issues like this before.
After driving when I park it in the garage. it sounds like it's hot but there is no smell there is a sound every few seconds until something cools down. at least I think this is what the noise is. dual overhead cam engine.
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Hesitation while driving mostly in city traffic.....
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What is the cause of my 2007 Ford Taurus that sporadically shuts off while driving? This problem started to occur about a year ago when I was stopped at a light. Then it would start to shut off while driving around town. The problem now occurs when traveling 70 mph on a highway which is dangerous. I typically see the theft light, airbag light, etc. come on and the wheel locks up. IF I quickly turn off my radio and air or heat (not set on full blast) then the car typically returns to normal driving.
If I do not turn off these items quickly then the car completely dies and I have to restart the car - so far the car has always restarted. This problem is quite sporadic - can be morning, night, been driving for 10 minutes or 40 minutes. It can happen one time and then not again for many months or it can happen 5 times in one day. I have taken it to 3 auto-mechanics (this last one being the Ford dealer). They have checked the keys, key fobs, alternator, never throwing a computer code, etc. I have driven it to the mechanic as soon after it happens and no computer code thrown. This is getting quite dangerous and about ready to sell the car.
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This happened a year ago. We got it running after a few minutes, and had the fuel filter changed before continuing on the highway again. It ran fine for the remaining 2 hours of the trip. I looked online and saw this as an issue, but no one knows why. It was suggested to take a break after 2 hours, and that has worked until 2 days ago, when it stalled an hour after the break, then restarted after some time and made it the next 1 1/2 hours home no problem. Each time it stalled, the air temp had been in the high 90's.
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I recently bought a 1997 Ford Taurus. It ran fine when I got it but the third time I drove it, it started acting up. I was driving down the highway and I noticed it was missing a little bit. Then about 10 minutes later it started not being able to keep up speed. It just seemed to kinda bog down or something when I gave it more gas. The longer I drove the slower it would go until it eventually stopped. I took it to a mechanic and he said it was a cam sensor and cam synchronizer or something like that. When that didn't fix it he said it was the fuel pump and filter, which didn't work either. Took it to another and he said to try changing spark plugs and then coil pack after that didn't work. It runs fine when I first start the car but the more I push the accelerator the faster it starts bogging down.
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I have a 92 Ford Taurus that runs warm, can overheat, especially in city driving. When driving at faster speeds with less stopping does not give any trouble. The radiator is full. I tried putting a new thermostat in and it overheat just the same. I took it out and it would run warm but not overheat. I flushed out the tranny. There are not leaks. Seems like water will come out to easy from the radiator cap. Thinking maybe it is blocked up some inside the engine. Can a water pump be kicking in and out at lower RPM's
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'97 Taurus GL Wagon 197k: Some of this stuff has been going on for some time now (several months ... maybe even a year).
1.) Driving Itself:
Car seems to drive itself on my way home from work which is a long, flat road in the 45-55 mph speed range. Once I get into this range, I can take my foot off the gas pedal and the car pretty much maintains speed until I get to an upgrade. I've even noticed times when I'm not pressing the pedal but the car is slightly speeding up to the point where I have to keep tapping the brake to keep from getting too close to the car in front of me.
2.) Stalling/High Idle:
Sometimes when I come to a less than smooth stop at a light - say, a yellow light that quickly turns red and I have to stop quicker than I'd want, the car will stall out. This has only happened a couple of times in the last 6 months, but it had never done this at all up to this point, so it's a new phenomena. Otherwise, the idle is usually at 600 rpm (except recently I've been seeing high idles of 2000 rpm every so often, which is really weird!!). Also, it seems like if I park the car on an incline, the engine will turn over many more times trying to "catch" and start - and the whole start-up sequence just feels weak - like it's not getting enough gas.
3.) Tach Bouncing:
This one's got me the most concerned because I think it's the most serious (and potentially the most costly to fix). I completely transfused the tranny fluid a few months ago as a possible solution, by the way, so the fluid (Dexron Mercon IV) is fresh. At about 1500 rpm on the tach, the tach sometimes starts bouncing up and down on the scale and I can feel a metallic engagement/disengagement cycle. If I get above or below this area on the tach, however, no problem. Also, taking off from a standstill -even though I accelerate very slowly and smoothly because I KNOW the tranny is "soft" and will 'slip and slap' if I don't - I'm recently starting to feel a very very brief grinding-like slippage feeling that does not hinder acceleration much at all, but feels very unsettling. This is a new feeling and it only happens every now and then (so far).
You're gonna say the tranny's on its way out, right?
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