Ford - Taurus :: 1998 - Shower Of Gas Every Time On Fill Up
May 9, 2011
We had to replace the gas tank on my wife's 1998 Taurus recently when it developed a hole from rust and started leaking. Since then, when we're refilling the tank and the pump automatically shuts off when it's full, we're always treated to a shower of gas coming out of the car. Sometimes it just runs down the side of the car, but other times it sprays out and would soak my legs if I didn't jump back quickly enough. It doesn't seem to matter how much gas we put in or how fast we fill it or even if we stop it early and fill slowly to the end. How to avoid this gas shower?
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The problem I'm having with this vehicle is that, it will start up just fine most of the time if I just hop in my after and haven't drove it for a while, however after I drive lets say 20 min+ and then decide to turn the car off and go back to turn it on, it just wont, it will turn over and its getting power but it won't follow through to start the engine, took it to a place by my house for 3 days and they said its probably the fuel filter but they couldn't give me a straight answer, what it most likely is? Its a 2001 Ford Taurus...
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My 82 year old mom had to have a new battery put in her car. Now the airbag alarm is going off. Why is this happening, and is it safe for her to drive somewhere to have it looked at?
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The headlights stay on all the time & wear the battery down. I've replaced the DRL module with two new modules & neither fixed the problem. I even examined the headlight switch (some burn up at the switch), but this headlight switch & wiring look new. I even took the headlight switch out & the headlights still stayed on. I made sure that the new modules were grounded to the chasis properly.
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I just had the engine in my 2001 Toyota Celica replaced with a rebuild at 145,000 miles (the original engine was burning oil). It runs fine but now every time I fill the tank with gas and start the car it runs for about 15 seconds then dies. This goes on about four times then it runs fine. After the initial dying eposoide the car runs fine until i fill-up again (i usually fill-up when i have avout 1/4 tank left). Before the engine replacement I had no problem like this. The mechanic thought the problem was the fuel pump and replace it and the filter and inspected the tank for debris. I am still having the problem
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My 98' Taurus will not hold a charge. I have replace the battery 3, The alternator was replaced 4 times, and the 175 amp mega fuse was replaced once.I am at wits end cause I don't have a clue what is causing the the battery to discharge over night in the winter and with in 3 days in the sommer. I have rewired the main fuse box under the hood cause the relay to the starter melted the box, I replaced cables to the battery, the alternator, the starter, and the ground to the battery, and the main fuse box under the hood. I have tested the battery to see if it will hold a charge on its own. This test took 3 weeks before it drained. I know it is not the battery. What is going on with this car, Did I miss something?
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This is for my previous car that I used to own in 2005. It was a 1992 Honda Accord and the issue it had was anytime I went to the gas station to fill up the gas, the car refused to start and I would need to jump start the vehicle every time. I used to take the DC metro to work everyday, so I did not have to use the car as much, but it was a hassle. This happened all through the year and I was just used to carrying a Jump Starter Box with me in the car. There were no other issues with the car. I do not recall needing a jump start any other time. This one time, I forgot to keep my car in the garage and it was out in the snow all weekend. Come Monday morning, I started the car without any issues. I went to a friends place about 10 miles away and then tried to fill gas at a gas station near his place and it died at the gas station. I do not have the car with me now, having totaled it in an accident couple of years ago. But I was always amazed at this and would like to know what would cause something like this.
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My daughters 2002 HYD Elantra engines misses sporadically often every time after a fill up. What it might be. Once some of the gas is used then it stops.
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i have a 98 ford taurus and the other day it just stopped running at a stop light. After having it towed home I took out my jump pack and it started up and ran for like 15 mins and it shut off agen.i jump started it agen but when i took the jump pack off it stopped agen. What I need to look at?
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I have the strangest problem on my 2006 Audi A6: whenever I fill up my tank with gas the car has a very hard time starting. This has happened 3 times in a row now. I run the tank fairly low - to about 1 quarter tank or a little lower but never to empty....then I fill the tank. When I get in the car to start it, the engine just keeps turning over trying to start but will not start. Then I stop trying, let the ignition rest for a bit, and try to start it about 5 minutes later and it starts just fine on the first try.
What could be causing this?One thing that has also started happening around the same time as the problem above is that when I'm idling at a stop light, I notice the car may start to idle roughly and seem like it is about to die out. I am the first and only owner of this car...I take good care of it and am an easy going driver. But I do drive a lot and have about 200,000 miles on it after 7 years.
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I just bought a 98 Ford Taurus, I've driven maybe 600 miles on it so far and it's been fine until recently. It first started with this jerking it was doing. I would press on the gas and it would do this jerking thing. And when I would pull up at a stop sign or put it in park it will do that jerking thing too like it's going to stall but never does. Then last week I start smelling this burn rubber smell, and then I saw a little bit of smoke coming from the right side of the Hood and then the check engine light came on.
It doesn't over heat though. Last nite I was driving, I pull into a parking spot and put the car in park and the RPM 's kept going higher, it scared me so I put it in drive and they went back down. I was going home and as I was driving I took my foot off the gas but the car kept going faster anyways. That's hasn't happened again but the burnt rubber smell, the jerking, smoking, and check engine light keeps happening. It's my only car.
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98 Taurus, 6cyl, 3.0L OHV, 184K miles. Check engine light is on and code reads "P0411 - secondary air injection system - incorrect flow". This is my son's hand me down car and has a rather large exhaust leak that I plan on fixing. Could this code be related ?? I found out that the CEL has been on for quite sometime now and the car is due for emissions testing (state inspection) in October.
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My taurus makes this weird sound when I turn my steering wheel left or right. It sounds like that cartoon "rubber being stretched" sound or maybe a little like plucking an overly tightened string. It doesn't affect driveability but I've been dealing with this for quite some time and I'm trying to sell it now... it's a major buyer turn off.
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Why the "esc off" light goes off in my 08 elantra se? This has happened 3 times in the last 4 months, every time while I am driving in rainy/snow shower conditions. I tried reactivating esc, but it does not allow me until I turn the ignition off and back on. Is this supposed to happen when it rains? I would like to take the car to the dealer for diagnosis but it happens at night and not close to a hyundai dealer.
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2003 Taurus, 3.0 duratec flex, 30K. While driving at various speeds the theft light flashes for a split second and the car starts to stall before resuming normal operation on its own. The rpms drop off, and power is lost for a split second. This is getting more frequent and happened five times during a 30 mile drive. The original Ford key is being used. My scan tool reveals no codes. I understand that there may be anti-theft codes that my scanner cannot read.
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as stated I have a '98 taurus and whenever I try to start it, the key gets locked in the ignition. I can turn the key to just before starting with the car in neutral and it will start, but not with it in park. Also the turning signals are intermitten at best. Brake lights and tail lights work fine.
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1998 ford taurus ohv is overheating and coolant is leaking out of fill cap takes forever for the temp gauge to read anything then after 6 or 7 minutes of driving it shoots up to about midway overheats and can hear serp belt squeeling from getting wet from coolant
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Our 1998 Taurus slips out of Drive occasionally when stopped at a stoplight. It is an automatic, and we shift it into Park,then back into Drive, and it will go again. This is intermittant so far. Is the transmission kaput? Any other things to check out?
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This is a question in general about Fords. My 98 Ranger doesn't do it. He's got a 1987 Ford Mustang 5.0 with original factory a/c. He changed his compressor to a used one and it started running all the time whether the swtich was off or on. He said he switched back to his original compressor and it still does it. I figured it might be something common for Ford a/c systems so I figured I would ask. I'm not sure why it would be unless the mode switch was bad.
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He has a 98 F150 4x4 and the tail lights are staying on all the time. I had him to replace the pressure switch(I think that's what it is called) but that didn't solve the problem. So now he has been taking the fuse out every time he stops, just so the lights will go off. When he puts the fuse back in, the tail lights stay on all the time, but his widows will not roll down. The windows roll down when the brake fuse is out.
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I own a 1998 Chevy K1500 Silverado. About a year and a half ago my interior lights stopped turning off. I found that the only way to make the lights go out is to pull the interior light fuse. With the fuse pulled my lights will go out when the key is in the off position. With the key in any position besides off and the radio on my cab lights are on half bright. If I turn off the radio or pull the radio fuse the lights go out. My mechanic and I both investigated this and came up with the same answer: the Keyless Entry Module. After living with no cab lights for a year and a half (in northern New Hampshire) I broke down and paid the 180 bucks for the "Remote Function Actuation Module" (I had to take my dash apart and get the part number off the old module to figure out which one of three or four possible modules was used in my truck). Now that I have replaced the module I still have the same problem. If it's not the module then what is causing my lights to stay on all the time with the fuse in or come on half bright with the fuse pulled?
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