1996 Ford Taurus 3.0L EFI DOHC 6cyl...... Every time I try to start the car it want start less I push on the gas pedal... Then its start to sputter really bad then dies.. I put new spark plugs in and new spark plug wires.. I do hear the fuel pump turn on... Car has about 147000 miles...
View 13 RepliesI have a 1996 ford taurus lx 3.0 v6 engine dohc about 150000 miles..when i start the car about 5 mins the car dies..so i start it back up then it dies again.. So I start it back up then i keep my foot on gas the car stays running as soon i take my foot off gas it dies. I did have a new fuel pump in..
View 12 RepliesRecently my car has been sputtering a bit after I start it. It starts fine, but it sputters like it is going to run out of gas, but it's always at least 1/2 full.
To get it to stop I have had to pull over, turn it off, and restart it after a few minutes of running, then I haven't noticed anything again until the next morning when I start it again.
One time it turned off by itself when I stopped it and put it in park.
If at all possible we'd like to repair it ourselves, but we are not sure what could be wrong.
Our thoughts are: clogging/clogged fuel filter or spark plug issues. What could be causing this sputtering?
Again, it is not constant, as after restarting I continue to drive almost 60 miles to work, then back home in the evening with no issues yet. It has stopped once, but never while moving.
I have a '99 Ford Taurus that was hesitating and sputtering while driving. I had the fuel pump replaced about a week ago thinking my problem was solved. Lo and behold, while driving about 50mph and trying to pass vehicles, my car started doing the same thing. It acts as though I have bad fuel or there is dirt somewhere that is entering my gas line.
View 5 RepliesI changed my plugs a few days ago on my 96' Taurus GL 3.0LI checked under my hood to check the recommended gap size and it said .42 to .46.. I went with .46. after putting them in i started the car up just fine, but later in the day i noticed when I came to a stop at a red light my car would sputter and my check engine light would start blinking. When I'd accelerate and drive it again everything would clear up and the light would stop blinking. I didn't change the wires, just the plugs in case you were wondering but I am unsure of how much that would influence my problem. Today after work i had a little trouble starting my car. After a few tries it started and my exhaust smelt rich in gasoline. Did i gap them too much? Should i get new plugs again and regap them? should i buy new wires also?Is my ignition coil going bad?
View 19 RepliesWhen I go to start my car in the morning the first 5-6 times I turn it over, doesn't start, than it starts than dies out about 3 times than it will keep a idle, but if I press the gas pedal when it starts to idle it always dies out but if I let it warm up when it starts to idle it doesn't die out? If I drive it and shut it off as long as the engine is warm it starts right up..
View 4 RepliesMy 1999 Ford Taurus has been dying randomly at any given time. I have changed the fuel filter, top grade fuel, fuel cleaner, and it has thrown no codes. It will start and run, and I will drive down the road just a mile and the first thing that happens is the wheel locks up, the battery light comes on, then all others. It turns over and over and will not start, let it rest for a few hours and it will start again and do the same thing. some times it will go a few days with no problems, then it will go only a few minutes. Next thing on my list is change plugs and wires because I do not have much money so am just guessing at cheap things and hoping for the best. What this could be to make it stall at random times, not throw the engine light off?
View 2 RepliesI have a 1996 ford taurus lx about 150000 miles.. When I start the car the rpm goes up then drops to like 300 rpm then goes back up then back down.. Now if I hold on to gas pedal the car runs fine then and I don't have any codes.....
View 8 RepliesMy 2003 2.3L used to run bad... it had a lot of lag to it when i would try to accelerate. The check engine light was on so i got it checked, and the reading said o2 sensor high voltage or something like that... anyways, i purchased a new sensor (i researched, and found there is only an upstream o2 sensor), replaced it, and the truck ran WAY better, no more lag during acceleration, it was crisp. As i was driving home one day, i was accelerating up a hill, and at about 4000 RPM, the truck almost dies and starts sputtering.
The check engine light started flashing, so i new it was serious, but luckily i was able to make it back to my house. When i got home, i looked under the hood and noticed that #2 & #3 spark plug caps had popped off the spark plugs. What I don't understand is what would have caused that to happen in the first place.... Is it a clogged Catalytic convertor, or is the o2 sensor bad.... Ive read different opinions and technical diagnostic possibilities, but man, i don't want to throw a bunch of money at a truck that I'm really going to have for a few more months. but I need to get it fixed in the mean time.
For the past couple months every now and again the power dies in my car for merely two seconds, then flickers back on and I can accelerate again. Just the other day the car completely turned off and all the lights on the dash lit up. I had to break and restart the car in the middle of the road. What is the problem here and how cheap will it be to fix?
View 6 Replies96 Taurus 3.0 liter OHV will not shift out of Park. I tried the workaround in the owners manual where you take the key out, re-insert it, turn it to the OFF position then start car in neutral, but shifter still will not come out of Park. Fuse #5 is fine, and all my brake lights work. Steering wheel is not locked.
View 6 RepliesI have a 1996 Ford Taurus. With the headlight in the OFF position and the ignition off, key OUT, the headlights stay on. All other lights are off. The highbeam indicator in the cluster stays on also. I've disconnected the headlight switch (completely removed from vehicle), and the headlights still stay ON! I know absolutely nothing about this car.
View 7 RepliesI have a 1996 ford taurus dohc v6 147239 miles..when i get over 60 mph my overdrive light starts flashing and the car still drives find..i did have new transmission fluid and new fillter put in and the light was coming on before i did that and still comes on when i get over 60 mph.
View 1 RepliesMy 1996 Taurus has 202,000 miles on it. One day a while back I was headed home from work. I had the AC on and fan on HIGH. I all of a sudden started smelling something hot. I threw my sunglasses into the passenger seat and saw a gray haze in my interior and slammed on the brakes and pulled over thinking my car was on fire. I got out quickly and looked under the car and then under the hood. I then followed the HOT ELECTRICAL smell to passenger side floorboard under dash. Blower motor part so I changed it. The weather got cool again so i didn't need AC for a couple of weeks. Now, ANYTIME I try to put the fan on HIGH I get that hot electrical smell. The fan has 4 settings, on the first three it's fine, but as soon as you put it on high it smells very hot. My AC isn't as cold as it used to be but it was like that before the fan motor gave trouble. I think I just need to charge the system. Why my fan motor gets/smells hot on high setting. No fuses has blown. I definitely don't want to burn this motor up. I got new fan motor that has the same electrical connection so I didn't have to splice anything. Is something overloading??
View 6 RepliesCan I replace a non-heated passenger side view mirror with a heated one?
View 5 RepliesCar started losing electrical power on the way home from work last week. Dim lights, blower stopped, wipers stop, almost stalled out when getting off the interstate. Barely made it home. 30 minutes later went out to troubleshoot and it started right up. Ran for about 2 minutes and stalled out from lack of electricity. Put voltmeter to alternator and it seemed to only be putting out 8.5v. Took to store to have tested. Replaced alternator and it didn't work. Reman alternator still seemed to only be putting out 8.5v or so.
Checked fuses and cleaned battery terminal and verified good block ground and good body ground. Still having problem. 1996 Taurus. What next? Battery is exactly 2 yrs old and was putting out 11.6 when the problem first started last week. Due to cold and this existing issue, battery is only at 6.5v right now. Can jump the car, but then after removing jumper cables car dies in 30 seconds. Should I have the battery tested? What else could/should I be looking at?
Well, let me rephrase that, the AC works but blower motor doesn't. When you put your hand up to the vents, they're cold.
Long story short, I ran my AC on MAX on way home from work, driving time of approx. 35 minutes. I got home, showered, and got back into car to go downtown to store. It was then I discovered that the AC wasn't coming on, and it was still on max. I shut it off and turned it back on, but to no avail. I checked all related fuses, or at least what I think is related and checked my "Taurus Bible" the chilton manual. I swapped out a blower motor relay and it didn't work, but i'm not sure that relay was or was not good, it was out of a '96 E-250 at work.
So now I get out my test light. I pulled the connection from blower motor, connect it and turn on AC and light comes on. Vents are getting cooler. So I get my tool and pull the radio and climate control assembly. I pull the plug to the actual fan connection, the part that connects to the fan switch that controld fan speed. I'm getting nothing there.
Is there a relay I don't know of? I know the AC still works because vents are still getting cold, but I can't get air to move. A LONG time ago it did this but "corrected" itself. What is my next step? I'm not sure what to check next and my repair manual is leaving me in a boat with no oars.
More details of car:
1996 Ford Taurus 3.0 V6 Vulcan motor, 8th VIN is UAUTO188,000 miles
White 4 door gray interior 3 car seats
GoodYear Tires inflated to : 33lbs LF34lbs RF36lbs RR35lbs LR
I have a 1966 Ford Mustang 2 + 2 (289 cu. in.) V8 with four barrel carburetor. It has more than 170K miles on it. It starts right away, but when I shift the automatic transmission to reverse or forward it dies out every time. I changed the fuel pump and the fuel filter, but the problem persists. I have had this car for almost 46 years now and I cannot bear to part with it.
View 2 RepliesHave a code PO305. Replaced coil. Plugs and wires. Checked front injectors. They make that correct clicking noise when listened to with a long screwdriver touching their bases. Attempted to listen to rear injectors. Only could touch outer two and they make more of a swishing noise. CEL will blink after driving higher speeds but will return to steady on when engine is turned off and rested for a few minutes. Does have new fuel filter. Newer pump. Newer Cat. CEL came on when driving at highway speed with cruise control on. Engine is a 3.0 not flex.
View 14 RepliesBack in January I drove my excursion about 1 1/2 hours or so and my tank had about 1/4 left. I shut it off and went to start it about 15 min. later. It did start but was sputtering. I shut it off and it started back up and ran fine. Drove another 1/2 hour... Shut it off, went to start I and it would only crank. Sounds like it isn't getting fuel. I also tried pressing he gas pedal thinking maybe a faulty IAC but that didn't work. I waited 1/2 hour and it started an ran fine. has not done it since... Always had more than 1/4 tank left.
This past weekend drove to the same place pulling my trailer. No issues at all. Coming home I live at the top of a big hill. My tank was at 1/4. Backed the trailer in and unhooked. Shut the ex down and walked away for 15 min or so. Went to put it in the garage and it started and sputtered, it did clear up after a few seconds and idled fine. I then shut it off. Tried to start it again and it would only crank. Waited a few min. and it started and ran fine. Does this sound like the fuel pump giving out?
- I have a scan gauge a checked for codes.... Nothing
- Garage kept hardly sees rain.
- Just over 95 k miles
- Only other thing is both times this happened it had sea foam in the tank
Napa says that bosch is the OEM pump. Is there a difference between motorcraft and the Bosch? Is one better? Could this also be a symptom of a crank sensor going bad or a cam sensor.
Took it in to my local mechanic that also has a v10 excursion. He hooked up fuel gauges and a computer to monitor the engine and codes while driving. He said everything is well with in the range of the specs. He will drive I for a coupl days to see if he can reproduce the issue. Where do I go from here with out just guessing what's wrong?
I have a 04 fx4. Was sputtering for awhile. The engine light came on. Now it won't start even with a boost. What it could be has 290 clicks.
View 2 Replies