Ford - Taurus :: 1996 - AC On And Fan On High / Hot Electrical Smell
Apr 29, 2012
My 1996 Taurus has 202,000 miles on it. One day a while back I was headed home from work. I had the AC on and fan on HIGH. I all of a sudden started smelling something hot. I threw my sunglasses into the passenger seat and saw a gray haze in my interior and slammed on the brakes and pulled over thinking my car was on fire. I got out quickly and looked under the car and then under the hood. I then followed the HOT ELECTRICAL smell to passenger side floorboard under dash. Blower motor part so I changed it. The weather got cool again so i didn't need AC for a couple of weeks. Now, ANYTIME I try to put the fan on HIGH I get that hot electrical smell. The fan has 4 settings, on the first three it's fine, but as soon as you put it on high it smells very hot. My AC isn't as cold as it used to be but it was like that before the fan motor gave trouble. I think I just need to charge the system. Why my fan motor gets/smells hot on high setting. No fuses has blown. I definitely don't want to burn this motor up. I got new fan motor that has the same electrical connection so I didn't have to splice anything. Is something overloading??
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Car started losing electrical power on the way home from work last week. Dim lights, blower stopped, wipers stop, almost stalled out when getting off the interstate. Barely made it home. 30 minutes later went out to troubleshoot and it started right up. Ran for about 2 minutes and stalled out from lack of electricity. Put voltmeter to alternator and it seemed to only be putting out 8.5v. Took to store to have tested. Replaced alternator and it didn't work. Reman alternator still seemed to only be putting out 8.5v or so.
Checked fuses and cleaned battery terminal and verified good block ground and good body ground. Still having problem. 1996 Taurus. What next? Battery is exactly 2 yrs old and was putting out 11.6 when the problem first started last week. Due to cold and this existing issue, battery is only at 6.5v right now. Can jump the car, but then after removing jumper cables car dies in 30 seconds. Should I have the battery tested? What else could/should I be looking at?
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I have a 1996 ford taurus lx about 150000 miles.. When I start the car the rpm goes up then drops to like 300 rpm then goes back up then back down.. Now if I hold on to gas pedal the car runs fine then and I don't have any codes.....
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96 Taurus 3.0 liter OHV will not shift out of Park. I tried the workaround in the owners manual where you take the key out, re-insert it, turn it to the OFF position then start car in neutral, but shifter still will not come out of Park. Fuse #5 is fine, and all my brake lights work. Steering wheel is not locked.
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I have a 1996 Ford Taurus. With the headlight in the OFF position and the ignition off, key OUT, the headlights stay on. All other lights are off. The highbeam indicator in the cluster stays on also. I've disconnected the headlight switch (completely removed from vehicle), and the headlights still stay ON! I know absolutely nothing about this car.
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I have a 1996 ford taurus dohc v6 147239 miles..when i get over 60 mph my overdrive light starts flashing and the car still drives find..i did have new transmission fluid and new fillter put in and the light was coming on before i did that and still comes on when i get over 60 mph.
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1996 Ford Taurus 3.0L EFI DOHC 6cyl...... Every time I try to start the car it want start less I push on the gas pedal... Then its start to sputter really bad then dies.. I put new spark plugs in and new spark plug wires.. I do hear the fuel pump turn on... Car has about 147000 miles...
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I have a 1996 ford taurus lx 3.0 v6 engine dohc about 150000 miles..when i start the car about 5 mins the car dies..so i start it back up then it dies again.. So I start it back up then i keep my foot on gas the car stays running as soon i take my foot off gas it dies. I did have a new fuel pump in..
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I can smell antifreeze under the hood, so I took it to be pressure tested. They found no leaks, but I can still smell it. When I add it to the reservoir, it goes down. What can I do ?
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Car has been having a myriad of problems that seem to be related to the electrical system. First warning sign that something was wrong was the car wouldn't start up immediately after turning the car off. We had to wait between 5 and 20 minutes before the car would start up again. It was also revving up briefly at idle. Brought it into the mechanic, they replaced the power steering pump. We told them about the issues with turning the car on, they said they didn't see anything.
Car worked fine for a couple of weeks, then when we were driving a longer distance (more than an hour drive) the tire pressure alert light went on. We were close to our destination, so we drove and parked, and the tire pressure was a little low. We were asked to move the car to a different spot in this lot, and it wouldn't turn on. When we came back to the car (this was after flying out of down for four days) the car started up fine, and we filled the tires with air.
Next time we went on a longer drive, the tire pressure alert light went on again, but we checked the pressure and the tires were fine. This light turning on issue has continued, without seeming to be related to the tires actually losing pressure at all.
A couple of other problems that may be related. One, the car completely stalled out once at an intersection, and the battery warning light went on. I turned the car off, waited 60 seconds, then turned it on again and drove home just fine. Also, the right turn signal is flashing at double speed on the dashboard, but there aren't any issues with the headlights or taillights themselves that would cause the light to flash at double speed. The left turn signal and the light on the dash flash normally.
I'm worried that this may be indicative of a larger problem in the electrical system, and since the mechanic told us the first time that they didn't see any issues I wanted to get a second opinion before I brought the car in again. I also don't really have a lot of money to spend, so I need to know if this is a critical issue or just something I can ignore until I get a new car early next year.
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Can I replace a non-heated passenger side view mirror with a heated one?
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I have a 1995 Ford Taurus, and I just swapped in a new engine from a donor from 2000. The engine is a Flex Fuel 3.0L Vulcan OHV.I've got a wealth of background knowledge as a mechanic [5 years+] and an electrician [4 years+]I have swapped over everything required to make this work, in theory. I swapped exhaust, fuel system, and computer/harness and all the relays to go with it. I also made a custom gauge cluster from a 2000 Taurus as well.
Well everything works just peachy, all the wiring for the most part is correct minus a few buzzing relays that I just need to work out. The main issue this [now monster in my eyes] has is the PCM is not telling the FPDM to tell the Fuel Pump to start. Turn key, and no 3 second startup. I've checked the fuel pump, and it's fine. I replaced the PCM and that didn't solve it. I have the security system from the 2000 in there as well, thinking that was an issue. I also have the emission sensors and canisters installed, just like you would see in the 2000.
I'm at my wits end trying to figure out why the PCM isn't sending voltage out to the FPDM. I had to of missed something along the way but I double checked and still can't find anything. How to get this working properly.
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When my car is stopped/idle I smell burning. However when it is in motion the smell goes away. Other than that my car runs fine. What could this be? My oil change guy told me to just add Lucas Oil Stabilizer and that would eliminate the smell but it has not worked.
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Well, let me rephrase that, the AC works but blower motor doesn't. When you put your hand up to the vents, they're cold.
Long story short, I ran my AC on MAX on way home from work, driving time of approx. 35 minutes. I got home, showered, and got back into car to go downtown to store. It was then I discovered that the AC wasn't coming on, and it was still on max. I shut it off and turned it back on, but to no avail. I checked all related fuses, or at least what I think is related and checked my "Taurus Bible" the chilton manual. I swapped out a blower motor relay and it didn't work, but i'm not sure that relay was or was not good, it was out of a '96 E-250 at work.
So now I get out my test light. I pulled the connection from blower motor, connect it and turn on AC and light comes on. Vents are getting cooler. So I get my tool and pull the radio and climate control assembly. I pull the plug to the actual fan connection, the part that connects to the fan switch that controld fan speed. I'm getting nothing there.
Is there a relay I don't know of? I know the AC still works because vents are still getting cold, but I can't get air to move. A LONG time ago it did this but "corrected" itself. What is my next step? I'm not sure what to check next and my repair manual is leaving me in a boat with no oars.
More details of car:
1996 Ford Taurus 3.0 V6 Vulcan motor, 8th VIN is UAUTO188,000 miles
White 4 door gray interior 3 car seats
GoodYear Tires inflated to : 33lbs LF34lbs RF36lbs RR35lbs LR
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While the owner of 2 Ford Trucks, I also have a 2004 Ford Taurus with 28K on it. For a while now the vehicle is hard starting, cranks but acts like it is not getting fuel, however, I can hear the pump come on. Other times it starts right up, but a clicking sound can be heard coming from the firewall area. At times the gauges will not immediately respond when the Vehicle is started and then all at once they will begin to work. Now, my check engine light is on, but my hand held obd will not read it. All the terminal pins look great, obd tester works on my other two vehicles, cigar lighter working, the fuses i checked are good. Vehicle runs great. Can this all be related to a bad module?
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I just bought a 98 Ford Taurus, I've driven maybe 600 miles on it so far and it's been fine until recently. It first started with this jerking it was doing. I would press on the gas and it would do this jerking thing. And when I would pull up at a stop sign or put it in park it will do that jerking thing too like it's going to stall but never does. Then last week I start smelling this burn rubber smell, and then I saw a little bit of smoke coming from the right side of the Hood and then the check engine light came on.
It doesn't over heat though. Last nite I was driving, I pull into a parking spot and put the car in park and the RPM 's kept going higher, it scared me so I put it in drive and they went back down. I was going home and as I was driving I took my foot off the gas but the car kept going faster anyways. That's hasn't happened again but the burnt rubber smell, the jerking, smoking, and check engine light keeps happening. It's my only car.
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I own a 2004 Ford Taurus (3.0L V6, OHV (12), non-flex fuel) registering a P0420 engine code. If I can smell exhaust fumes in the cabin, can I assume there is a leak in the catalytic converter system, or could the O2 sensors be the issue (or could it be the catalytic converter itself...)?
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I have a 1999 Ford Taurus. I have noticed a faint knocking sound for about 6 months. I took it in and the mechanic said ' what noise? '. Then it got louder so I took ot back in and he ssid 'bad water pump' I had another mechanic friend check, and he said the water pump was fine. Plus, I've never had any overheating . a 3rd mechanic said "could be loose torque converter bolts." It sounds like metal clunking on metal under the hood.. rpms, speed, & temperature make no difference. Occasionally get a smell of coolant inside the cabin . I'll attach audio of the noise.
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I have been trying to resolve the last of my codes on my MAF conversion on a 460. I am using an EEC-V box and had two codes I couldn't get rid of. I solved one yesterday, P0443 a evap purge code, by running the circuit directly from the EEC to the VMV.
The current issue is a code P1351, which is the IDM circuit. When I put everything together originally, I assumed that all the later systems used the black CCD module, Motorcraft DY-533. Adam Maurer asked that I check this to be sure. When I went to the Motorcraft website, I found that all 460 remote modules are listed as a DY-1075, gray push start.
The wiring diagram (from the 1995 and 1996 EVTMs) shows a yellow with black stripe wire (circuit 382) from pin 3 of the ICM to either pin #4 (EEC-IV) or pin #48 (EEC-V). Older systems show to start (circuit 32, red with light blue) to pin #3 of the ICM and a suppression resistor from circuit 11 (coil -) to pin #4 of the EEC-IV. which ICM a 1996 EEC-V 460 should have?
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Have a code PO305. Replaced coil. Plugs and wires. Checked front injectors. They make that correct clicking noise when listened to with a long screwdriver touching their bases. Attempted to listen to rear injectors. Only could touch outer two and they make more of a swishing noise. CEL will blink after driving higher speeds but will return to steady on when engine is turned off and rested for a few minutes. Does have new fuel filter. Newer pump. Newer Cat. CEL came on when driving at highway speed with cruise control on. Engine is a 3.0 not flex.
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I was given a Taurus wagon a 2000, Taurus wagon and it has some electrical problems.
The rear hatch is a mess, the center tail light left, right hatch brake lights and backup lights, and automatic lock all seem to be out.
I pulled the two panels off the pillars and the first connection inside the car look nice and connected. inside the hatch it appears as if all wires are connected.
is there a central point where all of these lights and locks meet that can be disconnected.
Everything else in the car seems to work.
oops forgot rear speakers are not working either.
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