Ford - Taurus :: 1994 - Turn Signal Is Stuck On
Jan 9, 2016
I own a 1994 Ford Taurus. One day o had made a sharp left turn and jolted my car and every since then my left blinker is constantly on. It doesn't shut off and doesn't switch to the right one. I tried the replacing the fuse with a spare one and completely took the fuse out because I can't figure out how to fix it. The handle to turn the blinker works fine and clicks in all the right places. But how do I fix this?
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2005 Ford Taurus, 6cyl, 3.0L, OHV, 90K miles. CEL came on and code read was P2272 with info "O2 Bank2 sensor2 signal stuck lean". Should I assume that I need to replace one of the O2 sensors and if so, which one ?? Not sure, but I think this car has four O2 sensors ??
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Jumped in the truck this evening to go to the store and when I stared it up the left turn signal was blinking. Lifted the arm as usual to cancel and it does not cancel. Cannot get the left signal off unless I hold the turn signal up for the right signal. The right signal does not activate, but the left does go out as long as I hold the arm up. Let go and the left starts blinking again. Tried driving around to see if it would cancel and no luck. The bulbs are all good. I checked the relays in the fuse panel and they are good. Dang thing just won't shut off. It is a 2011 F150 SCREW Platinum w/5.0.
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Long story short, my truck's front turn signals and rear turn signals/tail lights won't work. I am thinking that the relay is burnt. Whenever I look in the manual I can't seem to find the location for this relay. Is is built into the flasher?
Also, I am just assuming because the rear turn signals and tail lights are the same bulb that fixing this should clear up both problems. Am I right in thinking that?
I have already checked all of the fuses. Also, the Hazards don't work either.
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Every time I use my left turn signal it tends to get stuck and stay on...never turns off unless u get luck enough to jiggle it a little... So I have reverted to not using.. Why this could be happening? Its funny cause when it gets stuck it even stays on when i turn the car off so i end up disconnecting the battery...any way to stop this? 2000 buick park ave.....
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I locked my 98 passat yesterday with the key , activated the alarm and the horn honked and the lights flashed, but the passenger side turn lights will not go off, I pulled the flasher out and dis connected it but the lights stay on, I am guessing I have a stuck relay in the security system, but where to start looking. the turn signals will not flash with the turn signal switch or the hazard button pushed in, only the drivers side turn signals will work. This is my 1st VW and I am lost.
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I have a 72 F250. When I put the left turn signal on and apply the brakes, the signal stops blinking. I checked the bulb and it was fine. What is the likely cause?
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We have a 2015 Sonata 2.4 Sport that has developed an intermittent turn signal problem. When the left turn signal is turned on, the right signal will blink. When the right signal is turned on, nothing blinks. A new symptom that recently started is sometimes neither turn signal will turn on regardless of the position of the turn signal stalk. I managed to get the car to dealer #1 while the LEFT=RIGHT & RIGHT=NOTHING issue was happening but while troubleshooting it, they ran across an inactivated aftermarket alarm system that dealer #2 that sold me the car had installed. I guess the alarm they install is so cheap, it's not even worth removing if they are unsuccessful in upselling you at the time of purchase.
Since dealer #1 would not troubleshoot any further unless the alarm was removed, I retrieved the car and took it back to the original dealer #2 I bought it from. They removed the alarm and the turn signals started working again, however, this lasted about 2 weeks before the symptoms returned. I booked an appointment at the dealer #1 to bring the car in & half way during the drive there, the turn signals started working again. With nothing to show them, I didn't drop off the car. Now the problem is back. Since it tends to come and go, I have try and time when I can drop the car off so it's happening when they get it.
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I have a need for a 12-volt signal to indicate the engine is in start or run mode. I would like to pull this from the engine compartment but I'm not sure what would be the best or easiest way to do this. The 12-volt signal is not used to power anything so it will draw very little current. I have a 94 F150.
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I have an 03 Ford Taurus I recently bought. It had a remote starter put in it. About a month later none of my windows will go down. What first happened was only the drivers window went down but not up. I finally got it up messing with the door lock on my remote and it will still go down but going up is another thing, just hit or miss for days. Still none of my other windows will go down.
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The sunroof on my 99 ford taurus has a dead motor as of yesterday and it's going to rain today! It is stuck in the tilted up position, is there anyway to manually close it until it can be repaired?
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My 1994 Explorer is stuck in 4 low. None of the lights are on in the dash or at the switch. I got the switch out & with a test light running I have weak power at the top left terminal better power at the 2nd, 3rd &4th on the right. No power on the opposite terminals. Is my switch bad or do I have a different problem. Also how do you remove the switch from the dash vent ?
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I picked up a set of harley davidson look-a-like headlights online for my 05. I go to install them and when I tighten them up it causes the turn signal bulbs to push in towards the fender on both. I put my hand back there and it feels like the bulb socket is being forced against the header panel assembly. Am I missing something?
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Okay, admittedly my car isn't top of the line. But I'd rather keep it. It all started one day getting stuck in traffic. Some kid claims something broke, causing him to serve in front of a bus bus and sending the bus into a creek. Luckily, all the kids had been dropped off, and the driver wasn't hurt. In my angrier moments, I figure the kid was texting but have no proof. I was stuck in traffic for 90 minutes, and within sight of getting out of the traffic mess, there was a loud bang and it overheats. Off to the side of the road, call the wife, she picks me up. Take it to the local shop, which replaces the Radiator and the Thermostat.
From then on, if I get stuck in slow traffic or at stop lights, it heats up quick. The dash temperature gauge has the word "NORMAL" spelled vertically. After a few traffic lights, the pointer is at the O or even the N. Before the next incident (below), running too hot would cause difficulty starting unless I pumped the gas pedal, or let it cool down for awhile.
Another incident: a rather sudden loss of power driving. The mechanic claims that the catalytic converters are clogged (the car has two). He opens up one of them, "unclogs" it. This didn't solve the problem. It did seem to clear up the starting problem. There's plenty of coolant in the reservoir.
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My transmission has recently locked itself up in reverse. The shifter can easily shift through 1st-5th but if i attempt to drive forward it is still in reverse and works against each other. If shifter is left in neutral position it is still in reverse. If i push the clutch in the truck will move freely. I have taken the cover off of the tranny and all of the gears appear undamaged. It was dry however, and i replenished the trans fluid but it still is stuck in reverse. baffled.
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About two years ago I sold my 1994 Aero (transmission was going, and other stuff) and bought a 1997 that was in much better shape. But one flaw it has is that it was used somewhere with high corrosion, so a lot of stuff is stuck or rusty. I haven't changed the rear bulbs since I got it, but this week, 2 out of three bulbs went. Actually, I only noticed the 2nd one because the blinker went too, and started blinking fast. The 3rd Brake light on top might have been out a while already.
Anyway, to my frustration, I cannot open the 3rd Brake Light to change the bulbs. Even after I removed the 2 screws, the lens won't budge. I tried gentle prying, but I can hear the plastic starting to crack. I figure there are 2 possibilities.
a) It somehow got fused to the gasket over time. or
b) It was crazy-glued shut by some insane maniac (a long-shot?). In which case I can try Acetone.
For starters, once the screws are removed, does just the red lens come out, or does the black frame around it come out with it? I tried prying on both, but one of them is surely wrong. Worst case scenario is that I break it, and have to glue it back on or get another one from a junk yard. But that is not good... Meanwhile I am living ok with just 2 brake lights.
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I bought the 94 B2300 from a guy that said he got it from an auction and didn't know much bout it. Got 30 mins down the road and went to down shift to 4th coming into town and all I got was grinding. Turned it off and it would go into other gears and start in gear with the clutch pushed in. Wen I tried to take off it wouldn't move and just died. Towed it home and installed a new clutch kit in it. Got the clutch bled and went to test drive it and now it is stuck in 1st gear. Can it be easily fixed or am I going to have to replace the transmission...
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I have a 1997 Ford Taurus LX v6 DOHC. The car has almost 150000 miles. After driving the car for about 30 - 45 mins, I turn it off. About 20 mins later, I go to turn on the car and it has trouble starting and stay running. I turn the key to start it and it begins to sputter and then cuts off. When this happens, the RPM goes up and down and never gets to 700 - 800 RPM. After waiting for about 10 mins, the car finally starts but I have to push on the gas pedal to get it started and kept running. Once started, it runs fine. The car has enough gas, the fuel pump kicks on, and the oil level is full.
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Lately I've had some issues with the indicator(the orange needle telling you what gear you're in). Often when I start my car, it would let me shift gears but the indicator would not move. I've never once had a problem shifting into whichever gear I want(knock on wood). Usually when this happened I would bring the gear selector back to park then try shifting it again. This would fix the issue and it would bring the indicator with it, but I knew I had to do something about it eventually.
Last night when I was on my way home, I started my car and shifted into reverse to back out. It didn't move the indicator, and nothing I could do(no back to park then trying again) would work. I eventually decided I'd just count gears to get home, then I'd have it looked at.
At home I decided to do some research as to find out the issue, and I thought I'd found it. I removed the panel under the steering wheel to look at the thumb-adjustment. Many posts I read said it's likely broken and I may need a new one (Or to fix it with zip-ties or glue). When I found it though it had not been broken. The white housing and the black wheel were both working fine, the wire doesn't seem cut. However when I put the parking brake on so I can shift gears and see what it's doing, the gear selector moves but the wire just acquires slack in it. It's still attached and I can't see a break in it anywhere, however it may be broken inside the jacket. I tried turning the black thumb-adjusting wheel both ways and got no success from that. It moved a little once but that was it.
The indicator needs to be replaced?
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I have a 2006 Ford Taurus SE. Tried to start the car, it would turn over, but would not catch. I shut it off and tried again and it started right up. Is this a sign of trouble and needs something?
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This has been driving me crazy for the past 3 years. My car has 276,000 miles and runs great with no hesitation. I drive this car 1/2 the year and my 2012 Nissan Altima the rest of the year. I alternate every other month so neither car sits for too long.
My problem is most of the time the 2003 FORD TAURUS starts right up. However, sometimes, about 1 out of 5 times or so of starting, when I turn the key, I get nothing. The dash board lights come on, but the car does not start. So I found that after turning the key back and forth from ON to ACC (with nothing) and then turning the key back and forth (left to right and back) after doing that 6 or 7 times, the car finally starts .
Then it runs fine, starts the next 5 or 6 times with no problem. Then I turn the key to start it again, then nothing. So I turn the key back and forth 6 or 7 times and it starts. I took it to the Ford dealer and they said I need a starter. I went out and bought a starter and had Pep Boys install the starter (total price was around 1/3 the price quoted from FORD dealer). By the way, Pep Boys also said a new starter will fix this.
Then 3 months later, same problem. I took it back to Pep Boys and they said most likely the starter is defective. So I got the starter replaced, and all was great for another 3 months. Then the same problem. So I took it to NTB and NTB said it was also the starter. So I had them install a brand new starter.
All was Ok. My battery is brand new and my alternator is ok, used but OK.
Then 6 months later, the same problem. So a friend of mine tried to fix it. He unplugged the battery over nite, and had my re plug the battery cables to the battery terminals the next morning. And all was fine for 4 months. Then the same problem again. This time it took about 14 or 15 key turns before the car finally started. (Note: after 8 turns of the key back and forth, it resets the key FOB for programming on the Ford Taurus). This guy checked my electrical and cable from the starter to the battery, and he said all was Ok. He then tried to start the car, turned the key, and it started right up.
I don't mind turning the key back and forth, but if someone is in the car with me with the summer Atlanta heat and humidity, it can be a little uncomfortable, until the car finally starts. Keep in mind, the car always starts eventually. The car has never let me Down. I got the car in 2007 and the car still runs great and the A.C. blows super cold, no funny smells inside the car and the transmission is good. I like this car. I think it is built Much better than the 2012 Nissan Altima.
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