We hadn't started our 2008 F250 in about 2 weeks. It got really cold the last few nights, about 10 degrees, so I thought I should start it. It started and ran for about 30 seconds, stalked, then the wrench light came on and it will not start. The truck only has 84k original miles and we just had a tune up about 8 months ago.
View 2 Replies2007 ford f250 .... 200k on it ....
Just had refurb engine installed with new oil elements as well. On a 9 hr road trip, the wrench light came on but no other warning lights.
No stock gauges showed any raises in levels.
No noticed loss of power at all.
The light would only come on once I drove at about 75 mph for about 10+ miles. It would not turn off when i slowed down, but when I would kill the truck and restart it, the light would be off. Just driving in town or on the highway briefly, nothing comes on. Took it in to oreillys to get scanned and they tell me a few codes pull up but none of them are valid. What would trigger the wrench?
I have a 2005 F250 5.4L 2wd. Parked the vehicle in my driveway and the next morning there was no response from the accelerator and the CEL light and the wrench light on. I pulled the codes and came up with codes P2104, P2107 and P2110. The KOEO code was P2122. I checked the wiring and connectors and all appear to be fine I replaced the throttle body and no change. I removed the accelerator pedal and tried it on another vehicle and it worked fine. I have power to pin 16 on the diagnostic port. After clearing the codes and rescanning the same codes come up immediately.
View 14 RepliesPulled into work and the truck was running fine then i got out and shut it off and went to start it again to move it 5 minutes later and it would start and misfire and chug and the wrench light came on as well as check engine and abs. I replaced the throttle body motor with the doorman part and I'm installing a new electronic pedal today as well.
The weird part is the chugging as i replaced all plugs and coil packs, plugs are champion double platinum. when all this started it was raining pretty hard out side I've cleaned all plugs with compressed air and used dietetic grease on most until i ran out. Truck is a 2006 f250 with 3v 5.4 automatic... Truck is my work truck and i am stumped on this .....could cam sensors cause the same issues? What about egr valve?
Having problem with oil cooler pump throwing the wrench light? Dealer says it cools the oil and mine could be clogged a bit.. cost of total job around 8-10 k. And take cab off.
It seems when engine gets hot wrench light comes on cause not cooling oil down properly... it overheated. Gauges were very high.. Once when I was in full boost towing a ranger up a hill. First time it ever happened.. pulled over for 5 mins than started temp went back normal and finished tow no problem after that cause I kept boost lower!
So today. I filled my truck full of diesel. when I started it back up, it through the wrench light plus drain water separator. What it could be I have a loss in power. wont get over 45mph.
View 2 RepliesStarted truck it ran about 10 sec. then quit, low oil pressure came up on the dash will not start now.
View 2 RepliesJust this morning I tried to remote start my '13 F250 6.7 and all i got was the doors lock and a two honks. The two honks are usually when there is a door left open when you click the lock button two times but all of my doors were locked. After I started the truck with the key and took it out to go run a errand I noticed the check engine light turned on. Could this be connected or just a coincidence?
View 4 RepliesPulled into parking lot this morning, 05 F250 CC 4x4 V10, truck starts dinging at me, Park brake light comes on. Ease off of gas and idle around to parking place, no sign of brake drag. Release Park brake, no difference, set the brake and release, no difference, guess the microswitch went bad. Not raining, never hit a bump, MAY have had my foot on the brake, but that shouldn't effect the P Brake.
After setting for the 12 hour shift, all is good and well. Did not come back on.
Where this switch is? Is it under the cover by the foot set or under the truck along the cable? Would like to know where to look next time this comes up. Did have 2 new tires installed on the front a week ago, new tierod and aligned at the same time.
Just wondering and curious, my last F150 had all kinds of electrical germlins in the windshield wiper arm.
I was changing the vct solenoid on the driver side and I dropped a 3-4" Allen wrench inside the hole. I tool the valve cover off and can't see much down inside. Its not to the right by the cams, I think it fell down in front by the timing chains but I can't see it caught on a chain or anywhere. I drained the oil and took the filter off and looked in the oil pan with a snake camera, no luck.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2000 F250 with a V10, that won't start or turn over. I replaced the solenoid on the fender well, auto store check the starter 3 times and said it was good, new battery installed and same issue of not starting.
Here is a video of what it does when attempting to start : F250 starting issue - YouTube....
Where and what to look at?
I have a 2000 f 250 that will not start... I have replaced many parts all electronic sensorsm the past week i have spent in the neighborhood of 1800.00 on this truck. Cps, icp, idm, ebps, fuel filter, new oil, hpop level good, gpr, all new need starting........
View 4 RepliesFrom reading some of the posts on here it seems this is an air bag warning. 5 chimes five times in a row. The fuze is fine and there are no warning lights on the dash.
View 5 RepliesI've had my 99 F250 for about 2 weeks and my SES light came on last week. I took it into AutoZone and they read the code. DPFE sensor EGR etc. The kid behind the counter mentioned something about removing those and saving some money. We don't have any emissions testing. I don't want to take any short cuts really, but if its unnecessary to have than why not delete it. I have the 5.4 and it has 189,000 miles and we did buy the truck to haul the camper so that plays into the scenario also.
View 9 RepliesThe problems that I am having at the moment are that the abs light is on from the speedometer, odometer, also the blinking overdrive light that comes on at around 25 mph. After some research I had purchased a ford factory sensor for the rear dif. I then replaced the old sensor with the factory one. Started the truck and not a single thing had changed, both the meters were not working as well as the od light was still flashing.
View 4 RepliesMy trouble is upon turning key to start everything goes dead (no power to anything). Does not always happen, sometimes she starts just fine.
After the power cut out if I turn key off, wait a minute, then back to on position she will sometimes come back as normal or sometimes the on "ding" will chatter and dash lights will be dim.
I have checked batt connections, starter/solenoid connections, block ground connection. All seems fine. Get same problem when I jump starter with screwdriver. Been suggested to me ignition switch to blame.
I have a '99 F-250 super duty with a 5.4 L engine and I am having trouble starting it. Initially it wouldn't turn over at all, so I had the battery checked, it was fine, and after charging it the engine would turn over very, very slowly once or twice then stop. I then replaced the starter and now it turns over very erratically but wont start.
View 4 RepliesLet me start out by saying that I have exhausted every option that I have read on every thread that I could find on the internet regarding my son's 2002 7.3L not starting. What I have is no 12v power to the starter solenoid at the starter when I crank the key. What we have done so far, had the starter and both batteries tested, all good. Swapped out the starter motor fuse and the starter relay. Tried a new ignition switch and a new trans position sensor. Found major corrosion in the fusible link junction box on the drivers inner fender so we cut out the fusible links and put in a temporary jumper wire, still no crank. I have power to the dash, power on the power cable at the starter. I can jump the terminals on the starter and the starter engages. I found the shifter linkage bolts loose under the dash and tightened them up also. We have been struggling with this for 3 days, out in the lovely Michigan weather, since it couldn't have died in his parking spot in our heated shop, and I am completely frustrated. Are we overlooking something glaringly obvious?
View 11 RepliesMy '01 f250 7.3 has gotten hard to start. It seems to maybe be due to cooler weather, but not always. I have been told that there is some sort of valve in the fuel tank that could possibly cause this when the fuel gets around a 1/4 tank or so. But, it's doing it at any fuel level. But it doesn't do it all the time. I do notice it more in cooler weather. Anyway, when I try to crank it, I'll let the "wait to start" light go off and then wait a bit more. I'll turn it over and it almost as if the batteries are weak.
I'll stop and give it a few seconds and turn it again and it will normally start. But sometimes I'll do this 5 or 6 times and it will finally fire. But the more I have to try, it's like fuel builds in the cylinders and it smoke like a coal train for a minute or so. Almost like gas motor that has been flooded. But the smoke burns off and it runs like a top. I was thinking the batteries may be weak , but sometimes the starter will spin the motor with no trouble at all. I'm at a loss. Is it possible for fuel to drain from the system causing it to have to reprime itself? Here lately the smoking has me concerned even though it clears up.
I'm in a real jam because my work truck won't start. 1999 F250 7.3 Diesel 157k mi. - Air and fuel filters were replaced in the last 500 miles. This pup ran fine when I parked it last Wednesday before the holiday.
Checked for start last night because I'd been having battery issues, Both were replaced the previous week. It's cranking good but just won't start, not even a bit. No wait to start light, oil level is good, can not get obd reader to link.
The truck starter and radio would magically turn on and off after the first rain, it was hard on the starter and I had to replace the starter and the cause of that problem was the vacuum line coming from the brake booster running over the top of the wires in the 4 plugs attached to the driver side fender. It rubbed through exposing the wires and got wet connecting them. I cleaned them and put the electrical tape silicone and then it has been working fine for a couple months.
Now every time I try to start fuse #20 blows. So far I have traced the wire that goes through fuse 20 through the firewall being the blue wire with a orange stripe on it it goes through the top plug upper left most wire. From there I followed it through the 4 wheel fender plugs the furthest plug from the firewall still being the blue with orange stripe. If I unplug that plug and try to start the truck it won't start but the fuse does not blow.
I then followed that wire all the way to the neutral safety switch. I hate tracing wires. (About 8 hours so far). I am thinking neutral safety switch. Also another thing I am thinking is weird is that blue wire with the orange stripe is grounded when the safety switch is plugged into the transmission and if it is unplugged is is not grounded. And I don't think it is supposed to be grounded because that is the hot wire when the key is in the start position.
Details about the truck : 1999 f250 diesel 7.3 super duty automatic 4x4 dated 4/99
I have taken pictures of the plugs and wires I was going to post it but don't remember how.