I have an f350 and it came with the snow plow package, does this make the front end of the truck sit higher? I was thinking about getting a leveling kit for it but when i measured there is only about 1 inch difference between the front and back.
View 8 RepliesSo I have a 2004 F250 5.4 regular cab 4wd long bed that was bought used with a very heavy Western Pro plow. The truck only has 70K miles and it is equipped with the snow plow package and heavy GVWR package. Since I had no use for the plow, I removed it and all mounting hardware as soon as I got it home. The truck wanders and bounces down the road terribly.
It is tiring to drive and requires total attention. Reading posts on here about "wandering" left me thinking my steering box was probably worn out. I replaced this without any change. I figured that I must have other components needing fixed, but had not had time or money to dig deeper yet.
Now, this morning when leaving work, the truck had accumulated nearly an inch of very heavy, wet snow with a small layer of ice on the hood. Driving home was as if I were in another vehicle. Everything was tight and much less "hopping" when hitting small bumps. So, this leads me to my question. Do you think that simply adding some weight back to the front end, i.e.,: bumper, or brush guard, could be my answer? Or, is this simply covering up a more extensive problem?
I just finished putting a 7.3 back in one of our f450 plow trucks today, so then i moved onto our 2001 F250 5.4 plow truck. The dipstick tube was rusted in half so i pulled on the remaining half to get it out and put in the new dipstick. However, it broke off at the block. So now i cannot see how to get the rest out with out doing a lot more work. I haven't removed the splash guard yet but will i have to remove the manifold , the oil filter base, or both?
View 14 Replieswhat I need to do to remove a plow kit on my truck? I bought the truck with the kit already on it and I figured I could get some $$ for it, but I gotta get the darn thing off! I'll be posting pics soon. It looks like it'll come off easy by removing a few bolts, but with my luck I'll completely ruin something.
View 11 Replies15 f350 gas xlt with 8.6 Western proplus straight blade. I noticed that while only applying throttle and fully angling the plow ,the hvac system turns off and then on again and the dashboard lights also turn off with the message system also going blank. I've brought it back to the body builder, twice, that installed it and they don't acknowledge a problem. The only answer I got was it's probably a bad battery. The funny part is you can angle it all day while it idles but as soon as you apply throttle and fully angle it left or right it cause the loss of power to certain accessories. When it does this it also causes a relay to click under the dash panel on the drivers side .
View 8 RepliesI noticed my truck makes a high pitched whining noise. It does it at idle and while acceleration up to 40 mph or so. The pitch of the wine increases with RPM'S. It is not the cold start whine issue I have researched on YouTube.
It is in the cold or warmth. No difference. It's always there. My 2012 6.2 did not sound like this at all. I have crawled under the truck and it appears like it is coming from the transmission.
ust bought a new to me 01 f150 7.3. Looking to put a plow on it. I cant figure what these brackets are for, they under the front bumper visible through the wheel well. Thinking maybe for a plow?
View 2 RepliesSo I've had this WAAG brush guard laying around for a few years and figured it was time to do something with it. Of course it was bought with no mounting brackets. I had found a lower gear from a Fisher MM1 plow. Tossed the in the truck and started from there.
Broke out the cherry picker and started lining stuff up. Drilled some holes and bolted it up. It's all bolted up but I still need to take a piece of 2x3 angle and weld it to the lower plow mounts to tie the bottoms together and create a step.
I am in the process of replacing the front hub seals so my ESOF works again. I tested both front hubs with a mityvac and neither one of them holds any vacuum at all. All the lines are good, and the pump and solenoid seem to be working fine.
I have the driver's side apart and I have a couple of questions.
What's a good source for the vacuum seal? I've checked rockauto, riff raff, and diesel o-rings. Diesel o-rings has it, but the description says it's only for 2003+ Excursions so I didn't order it.
There is no yellow o-ring anywhere on the hub. I assume that someone forgot to put this o-ring back in and this is why I don't have ESOF? I guess what I really want to know is that there isn't some 2000-specific thing where there's no o-ring, right?
After I got the hub off, I spun it around on my workbench and it doesn't sound good at all. It makes a slight metallic grinding noise about 1/2 way around. I assume this isn't normal? AFAIK these are all original parts - but the missing o-ring means to me that someone already had it apart.
There was a lot of water intrusion and rusty colored grease but nothing was dry, the needle bearings were intact and the shaft isn't scored at all where the bearing rides. I'm hoping new seals and good cleaning and it should be good as new. And then it's off to the next side.
Went to pick up a serpentine belt, they are diff for warm weather package. How do you tell if your 2008 F350 has the "Warm Weather Package".....
View 9 RepliesThis is the first winter for my truck, and the first time I've driven a truck in the winter. I struggled to get out of my street this morning, through 15" of unplowed heavy snow. As the traction control seems to engage, and even sometimes when it doesn't, the truck literally shakes very violently. I even had to lock the rear diff to get out this morning, but that didn't seem to make the shaking any worse. What causes the shaking? Is it just my truck? I've driven Land Rovers with full-time 4x4 for years, never any shaking even when they are spinning like crazy and traction control is operating. One thing I did learn that seemed to be a question of several on this forum...traction control does operate on the front wheels when 4x4 is engaged, in addition to the rears.
View 14 RepliesMy 2wd truck sits just a tiny bit low in the front. I see a lot of the hockey puck leveling kits on ebay but there are SO many options that I don't know where to turn. I want to up 1 inch and id like to use a nylon or rubber spacer. Will I need shock extensions?
Also do the 4wd trucks use the same front coil springs? I looked under a 4wd truck today and noticed it has a big rubber isolator on top of the spring that my truck does not have.
Here's how it sits with 2 dirt bikes in it. Maybe I'll even go up a squeak in the back too, just to bring it up to 4x4 height.
Last night was changing front driver's side shock on my 2011 F250 PSD. Right front wheel still on ground and needed to turn wheel to right to better access shock mount. Started truck and turned the wheel all the way to the right and took the key out thinking the wheel would lock and I could change the shock easier. But the wheel didn't lock and actually spun itself almost a full turn after I took the key out...I'm assuming because the right wheel was still on the ground providing resistance, but I think the wheel lock may have broken.
Finished the shock and went to start, but nothing. Everything is clicking and buzzing like normal but wouldn't turn over. Checked all fuses that seemed pertinent but none were bad. Wasn't able to check any relays. Gave up and was going to have it towed.
Son and I had to straighten the wheel so I could roll in down the driveway and the dang thing started after the wheel was straight! Thought it was a fluke and parked it. This morning did the same thing so I cranked the wheel to the right and it started again. Now at work and thought I better check again and I can't get it to start for anything. The steering wheel lock seems to be busted and now I'm thinking it could be something in the steering column, but this is a little above my pay grade.
Need to get home tonight and was hoping my description would be enough to make a for sure diagnosis. Otherwise its getting towed to the shop and I'd rather fix it myself if i can.
So went back out and tried starting in neutral again, but this time fiddled with the shifter while turning the key...nothing again. Ran it up into park and tried it again and it started! Last night and this morning I didn't mess at all with the shifter, just manually turned the wheel with the engine off. This is the first time moving the shifter worked and I didn't turn the wheel at all this last time.
Had green substance in snow near tailpipe or exhaust pipe ! Im sure this is not good (most likely antifreeze ) Truck has about 82000.00 miles on it and has towed sleds to vermont and back each year about 6 times or so .Looks like a head gasket, any thoughts on this problem ,overflow tank is down a little below cold minimum line. Is a additive possible? I am original owner and have not beat on truck ,oil has been changed regularly ,tranny and coolant have been changed. 2004 F250 ext. cab 5.4 v8 gas...
View 9 RepliesSo the other day 2/3/2014 my dad and I went out during the snow storm for the people that needed assistance. That day I pulled a 95' RWD dually with a 4 car open trailer and pushed 4 people from one location. Then after I went to assist the tractor trailer driver. My truck is a 2002 F250 super duty 5.4L with 4:10 gears. I got him unstuck then pulled him a 1/2 mile up a hill.
Pulling a stuck semi out of the snow - YouTube .....
While driving into town during a recent snowstorm, my truck started to misfire quite badly. The check engine light started to flash and then remained on as I went to the auto parts store. The code indicated cylinder two misfire. I don't a few things of dry gas in the tank and let it run for a few minutes which seem to solve the problem.
Since then, however,every time the engine gets even a little bit wet it starts to bark again. It usually lasts a few minutes then goes back to normal. Typically, I would have replace the plug wires. When I lifted the hood of my truck I realize I knew nothing about it.
My truck has an intermittent shake with a grinding/binding kind of noise. It seems to happen at lower speeds, generally when slowing down and turning. When I apply the brakes or speed up it seems to stop the noise.
The rubber/plastic seal on the back of the wheel hub is loose on both drivers and passenger side but I don't think that is the problem. I'm wondering if it is the u-joints or something.
The brakes look shiny and i don't see any scratches on them so I don't think there is a rock or something in there. I have the wheel hubs in the auto setting, and it is a 4x4. The truck is a early 99 7.3L with a leveling kit and 230k miles.
I have an 07 350 6.0 was plowing last night toward the end of the night i herd a popping coming off the front end of the truck. My esof does not work so I manually lock the hubs and then turn on the 4x4 from the dash when I want 4x4, ok so after the few pops I heard while slightly turning I straightened out and all seem ok till I pulled outta the parking lot started driving and i had a noise kinda sounded like driving on a flat while at speeds at around 25-35mph so I got out unlocked the hubs drove it and it drives fine unlocked. so what I've done so far is while hubs unlocked climbed under it spun the front driveshaft by hand and spins freely. When the truck is rolling with no issues i locked the hubs left the switch in 2wd turned the wheel and started to make a turn and POP loud and shakes the truck violently it feel likes the steering and the truck is binding when trying to turn.
View 4 RepliesI have a 99, F-350, V-8 &.3 Diesel, 6 speed with 2 WD. Is there a way to temporarily lock both rear wheels to obtain better traction in the snow?
View 7 RepliesHaving a problem with calipers again/still seems like always. Replaced all calipers twice in 86K miles on a 2000 f250 crew 4x4 because of stuck calipers. Replaced brake hoses and all hard lines in the rear about 2 years ago. My problem now is the left front caliper is not squeezing hard enough to stop the truck evenly. (pulls to the right) The rotor had some rust from sitting and after driving a for a while the rust is not completely gone as you would expect. Replaced caliper bled a couple of times. Caliper looks to be getting pressure enough to bleed and can see it move when brakes applied when engine not running. I don't have experience with Proportioning Valves but do you think that is the problem and how do I fix it?
View 8 RepliesI have a 2002 F250 with 189,000 miles. Im having some very bad issues that im trying to fix. The truck idles rough, with fluctuating RPM's. In certain speed reanges it also shakes and runs rough. If I turn the overdrive off the shaking pretty much stops, but it still accelerates pretty slowly. There is also a whistling noise from the front of the truck until the engine warms up, someone told me it sounds like a bad intake manifold? Does that sound right? What could be going on with my truck? All spark plugs and coil packs have been replaced, as well as the fuel injector rails.
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