The rear differential is leaking on my 2000 f350, i am going to replace the gasket. When I take the cover off will all the gears pop out or are they held in? Also how much differential fluid does it take?
View 8 RepliesI was trying to determine how to read the metal tag on my rear differential in an attempt to figure out what rear gear I have.
The plate reads: "3 V 414 F" on the top line and "731053L03" on the bottom line.
It's a 2004 Super Duty 4x4 Crew Cab XLT with the 5.4 gas.
I need to replace the gear oil in the rear differential on my Ford F -350 and was wondering what the best sealer to use.
View 7 RepliesUsing a gasket on the rear differential? How did you like it?
View 11 RepliesI have a (new to me about 40 days ago) 2004 F250 SD Lariat Crew Cab 4x4 6.0 diesel. 137,xxx miles.
I thought Id gotten a good "deal" on this truck when Id bought it however the last 40 days have been very expensive. The "stealership" I bought the truck from was on a 35mph rd and I couldn't test drive it at highway speeds. So I bought the thing "knowing" there were a few "minor" sniggles wrong... however once about 15 miles from the dealership/stealership and on a highway, the real fun began.
I had a terrible shake, shimmy and groan/whine at speed no matter if the truck was in gear or not.
Since that time ive repaired/replaced:
1) Both front hubs/bearings
2) Both front hub locks
3) Both front brakes and calipers
4) 4 New Hankook tires
5) Ford Dealership Diesel engine service/lube (essentially an expensive oil change)
6) Ford Dealership transmission service
7) Drained (with a siphon) and refilled the rear differential + OEM Ford friction mod.
Ive eliminated problem after problem after problem with this thing.... and yes, the truck does get better with each repair HOWEVER.... Ive still had this groan/whine from the rear end of the truck and a rumble from starting at a dead stop despite my changing out the gear oil in the rear diff.
So I take it today to a local shop (that I trust/sort of) for a 2nd opinion. Their technician takes the truck out for a test run and comes back in 10 min saying he has no clue but the sound was annoying and he'd need to put it on a lift if I could wait.
I saw the truck go up... a few parts get wiggled, some head scratching, saw the truck go down, watched another tech jump in and 2 techs run it out for a test drive.
When it came back, I watched the truck go up again on the lift... this time however they just lifted the rear and with one guy in a pit the other revved the motor. I watched as the wheels spun. A few minutes later both techs came in and said my "rear differential was shot".
They pulled the diff mag plug which was caked in metal deposits. It looked the same when I pulled it off the first time and did the fluid change (yes i cleaned off the plug before putting it back). I had seen differentials (in the past) have deposits like that before on plugs but the units were still good and such deposits were considered casualty of wear and tear.
However im being told the rear end is shot.. When I inquired about just replacing the internals of the diff, it was a simple bolt in/bolt out job.
Wondering what difference in tire pressure are you running front to rear. I have a 1999 CC LB 4x4 with a v10 with 180k on it and have always had to run lower on the rear with a empty bed. Most of the time I'm empty. If I don't the rear centers wear a lot quicker.
I ran KO's most of those miles and recently switch to Geolanders. The tires are 315x75x16. BTW the geolanders are doing great. A better rain tire, smoother and much more quiet. 6k on them so far and very little wear. Time will tell, I would get 55-60k out of the KO's.
I have a quick question. I am gonna change the fluid in my 01 f250 rear end. it has 410 gears and a limited slip diff. if i use full synthetic gear oil do i have to add the limited slip additive or just the 75w-140 full synthetic gear oil.
View 14 RepliesLooking for a breakdown for installing a new clutch pack in the rear differential of my 06 F250 Diesel sterling 10.5. I found a kit on rockauto.com but it has 4 weird looking shim things I don't recognize, I rebuilt my diff in my 03 crown vic 8.8 but there's some extra pieces in this kit I don't recall.
View 6 RepliesMy rear end cover has been leaking and I don't have time to fix it right now. I was going to check the oil and maybe add some if needed but I cant find anywhere to ad oil or check it? Am I missing something? The add plug is the one Id like to find.
View 2 RepliesIf you look at the top of the picture you can see the two bolts with fresh oil on them.
I have a 2002 Ford F250 V10 Pick up. I noticed oil leaking from under the oil pan. I wiped off the pan and bolts to see where it was coming from. The oil seems to be leaking from the rear of pan. There's always fresh oil on the rear bolts that hold the pan and I also noticed oil coming from one of the two hoses that go from the radiator to where the oil filter mounts.
But don't those hoses carry radiator fluid and not oil? I bought this truck in July and no oil leaking from underneath. It seemed to have started after I did my first oil change on it. I used regular Vavoline 5W-20 and motorcraft oil filter.
This is something to check, I found the vent line pinched closed on my 2000 F350 when I was trying to find out why it was leaking. When I was under my 2013 installing the hitch I checked it and found the same problem. The clip doesn't pinch it closed right away but it will happen if you don't move the clip.
View 8 RepliesMy grandfathers 99 F350, started suddenly, do not know if it was while sitting or while driving. Its more of a stream than anything else. Coming from the rear, cannot see where, appears to be toward the vee of the engine, not inside the bellhousing. The firewall insulation is damp from coolant. Doesnt start until engine starts warming up.
Is there something commonly replaced back there? Didnt want to yank the intake in 20* weather for exploratory surgery. Is not the heater hoses. Idk if the EGRs are cooled on these, thats about my only idea other than freeze plug, coolant tests good down to -20ish, hasnt been below zero in weeks (prior to leak). Not familiar with any of the modular engines.
The rear hub outer oil seal on my 05 350 is leaking. The 350 Super Duty Twin Cab was never imported into the UAE so can I use the same seals as the Excursion or another Ford vehicle?
Failing that do we know the name and part number of a seal manufacturer whom I might be able to source from in Dubai? Ford don't make the seals them selves so there must be an alternate source for these things surely?
Changing out the rear main oil seal on my 1999 F250 Super Duty. I have a 7.3L diesel with 6 spd manual trans. with 98K miles. This past week it has developed a very slow engine oil drip where the engine meets the transfer case. Is it necessary to remove the engine or just the transmission? What does a transmission/transfer case combo weigh? What special tools would I need?
View 1 RepliesThe doors on my 2005 crew cab are leaking water. Its happened once before, I fixed it by resetting the main seal around the doors. Now this tropical storm had them leaking again. The rear doors are leaking from the top and getting the head liner wet, and the front left door is leaking a little bit onto the middle pillar Guage and down onto my leg.
Is it time for new door seals? My 01 has never had this problem so im not entirely sure what to do.
Here's my problem while replacing brake pads i found that my axle has leaked fluid on the pss,side rear rotor and all over .. I been looking for any info on repairing it myself . I found Everything for every other truck just not for this truck.
It's 2003 F-250 w/5.4L all Stock rear axle has 12 bolts and gears are 7.73 ... I believe its a Dana 60. No tags or markings on the Axle to go by..
I live in the Freak-en woods here so i like to order all the right parts once and do over the weekend .. its my only ride so once apart im stuck here.... I did check the Vent Tube its fine..
So I've put about 1000 miles on my 03 F250 since buying it, and just the other day it's started leaking from the rear of the passenger head gasket. Enough to drip on the driveway and exhaust, and have some exhaust smell. 126,000 miles, 5.4
I've checked with my local ford dealer, and It also needs passenger exhaust manifold and studs, so the dealer price to tack that on would be a whole lot more too since there are already a couple studs broke. It would be best to get it done when the head is pulled.
I've checked with several local mechanics, and none of them are interested in pulling the head on this engine. That has me concerned about doing it myself too..especially since it fits in my garage with only a few inches to spare..
I have a 2005 F350 XL Heavy Duty 6.0L truck that has 68,XXX miles. I recently changed the rear brake pads and about a week later the rear passenger side is leaking brake fluid. The fluid is slowly dripping from the bottom caliper bolt but i am not sure if there are seals in this area. the driver side is fine and the fluid is only leaking from the bottom caliper bolt not the top.
View 2 RepliesI just picked up an 09 F250 a couple of weeks ago and I was planning on replacing all the fluids since I'm not sure when everything had been done in the past, but it did pull a camper 5th wheel. It has about 93000 Km/57000mi on it
One thing I noticed when reading the manual is that a rear diff fluid change is not necessary on these rear axles unless they have been submerged in water or repaired etc..
Just after I got it I noticed the pinion seal was leaking. It was fixed under warranty but the dealer did not replace the diff fluid as they said Ford will not pay for it.
My question is do you think I need to replace the diff fluid or should it still be good, given the relatively low mileage.
I am getting ready to do my both differentials and need to know if I have limited slip or not on the rear, what is the best way to tell?
View 5 RepliesTorque on the differential cover bolts, 2016 F250?
View 6 Replies