Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Intermittent Stall When Driving / Won't Start For 30 Minutes
Jun 7, 2015
I've been having an intermittent stall-out problem with my 2003 F250 5.4L (160k miles). The truck has been retired from DD to farm duty, hauling, and towing only. Over the past 9 months, the truck has stalled-out on me 3x while driving. I will be driving along sometimes at highway speed, sometime slower, and everything will die: no PS, lights go on all over the dashboard. It will not restart right away. I have to wait at least 20-30min to restart it and then everything is fine for several weeks and hundreds of miles.
There are no codes and I have been unable for reproduce it/cause it to happen purposely. My mechanic has changed the Crankshaft Position Sensor, and checked the fuel rail pressures. I also checked all the harnesses and fuses, cleaned the battery terminals, looked for vacuum leaks, and gave it a good look-over. The following are new: battery, IAC valve, fuel filter. After searching the forum I also pulled the fuse box and examined the integral fuel pump relay: it and the board looked perfect, no bulges, cracks, discoloration, etc.
My mechanic thinks this is more likely an ignition problem than a fuel delivery problem.
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1999 F250 SD Ex 4x4 V10 has been intermittently not starting, both cold and warm, began last fall but only happened once a month or so or longer. Would then start after trying again either right away or after waiting a bit. Now it is doing it on a regular basis. Sometimes it will start right away, sometimes won't but if you keep trying or wait awhile it starts, sometimes using the extra key will start it right away after the first one didn't, sometimes neither one. It does not try to turn over, make any noises, no warning lights flashing, just won't start.
Now also on two occasions within the past week, it just stopped while driving. Radio, dash lights, etc., stayed on. I got it to the side of the road with the little power steering left where it started up again right away.
No codes showed up. First mechanic couldn't find anything obvious or replicate problem. Changed air and fuel filters (fuel filter really needed changed), plugs. Got truck back and it wouldn't start next morning. He checked it again and got a code related to ignition, tried the spare key and it started up. Truck back home, next day same problem.
Mechanic 2 checked, no codes, kept several days but, of course, couldn't replicate problem. I'm not even sure what all they checked, used to be an excellent repair place but now they seem to only really on diagnostics and throw up their hands, very disappointing. Replaced solenoid and starter last year myself. Otherwise, have had no problems until this.
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My 2001 6.8 L V10 runs great all day & night without issue, but first thing in the morning when below freezing it has a hiccup. It'll fire right up and stutter and stall within less than 2 seconds. Usually twice. Third time it fires and keep running. Is there a fuel check valve somewhere on this thing? Not sure what that would have to do with the temps. Wondering if it's/there's an easy fix or not?
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I just changed all the pads and rotors on my 08 F350. The brakes are much better now, only the rear brakes got quite hot after driving it for about 15 min. Turns out the rear parking brakes are dragging on the back brakes. I adjusted the parking brake on both sides so they no longer drag and the heat issue is gone. The problem now it the parking brake does not engage until the pedal runs out of travel. Any tips to get this just right? Will the parking brake self adjust like the old drum brakes and shoes use to do years ago?
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Have been having issues with my truck starting for the last few months. Happens cold or hot. When I try to crank all I hear is a buzz and the starter trying to insert, but it doesn't. Just a tap. Has been happening the last few months here and there. Have always started after 1-2 minutes of trying. Yesterday went for a 60 mile drive and car didn't start after I parked. Tried for a good hour and decided to leave it and it fix the next day. In the morning, the trunk started on the first crank.
Drove home and parked. Tried to restart and nothing. Went to work and came back at night and nothing. I was just going to take out starter and have it tested and replace if needed. Also, will replace the starter solenoid. Have replace both of these the last 2 years with parts from Napa Auto Parts. Have a lifetime warranty for starter. How often do these parts need to be replaced? What my issues are or what else should I replace for preventative maintenance?
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I've got a 2006 f250 with 160,000 miles, trans was rebuilt by previous owner about 10,000 miles ago. The tow/haul light started blinking yesterday, only blinks for first couple of minutes of driving and then stops. Service engine light popped on today as well. Won't have access to a code reader until tomorrow, but looking for some preliminary info...
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As a follow up to my problem of intermittent stall and hard start, it is getting more pronounced. Now, every once in a while, it will start. Mostly it will not start.
This morning I connected an OBD2 meter with the key on and engine off. It told me that there are no DTC's. As I was attempting to run enhanced DTC's the code reader lost link with the computer. The connection icon was on but it lost the link. At one point, after several tries, I got the link back but it didn't last too long before it was lost again.
This is the same symptom that I have with running the engine. It will run and then shut off. After a hard start, it will start and run just fine and then shut off again.
My question is this. Can I still have power to the PCM and loose power to the processor? Is there a fuse or relay that could be causing this problem? If not, could the problem be a faulty PCM.
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Over the last two weeks I have had an intermittent no start on my 2005 F350 6.0. on four different occasions. With enough cranking and charging batteries it would start again. I am running a scangauge, during these no-starts ICP was at 200. I pulled the IPR and the screen was damaged so I ordered a new one thinking the IPR would fail intermittently. Replaced the IPR last night with a new one, and truck ran great. Started it three different times with no problems and let it run about twenty minutes.
This morning, another no-start, but IPR is at 1162 psi now during cranking. I am thinking fuel delivery now, but have not yet checked fuel pressure, I need to find an adapter for the M12-1.5 port on the secondary fuel filter.
Details: 2005 F350 6.0 SRW 150,000 miles 4x4
Studded a year ago
New oil cooler a year ago
Upgraded STC fitting a year ago
Coolant system flushed and coolant replaced with ELC months prior to cooler change
Coolant filter installed months prior to cooler change
EGR Delete
Scangauge II
Plenty of Oil
New Motorcraft Fuel Filters
Fuel Filter Bowl fills fast during KOEO
LPO registering on dash gauge during long crank
1162 PSI ICP during crank
37% IPR during crank
FICM voltage 48 - 47.5v during crank and run
Batteries tested good last week
SYC = 1 (last night while running)
Codes: Threw a code this morning during long crank "P2614 - Camshaft position output circuit" - One forum stated that this code will appear during long cranks - don't think this is my problem. This is the only code that it has kicked out during this issue.
Fuel Pressure = UNKNOWN
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I have a 99 F350 with a V10. I just replaced all the spark plugs and a bad coil which solved the very bad misfire I had going on. I also just changed the fuel pump and fuel filter.
When I start the truck, it idles just fine, nice and smooth. After sitting there for a short bit, maybe a couple minutes, it starts to idle rough, not so rough that it's about to shut off, just a little rough. This lasts maybe a minute and then goes back to nice and smooth and stays that way.
I've thought maybe the EGR valve or Idle air control valve but I'm not sure if I'm way off or sort of close.
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My 2011 F-250 just started having a weird heater problem. My truck heater gets up to temp just fine but after cruising down the highway for about 15 minutes or so it starts blowing out cool air. I can turn the controls to defrost and back again and it blows warm, not hot but warm then cool again. It just started a couple of days ago. Temp gauges show normal temp also.
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Motor cut out while driving. it restarted once then died. Wrench light came on.. checked DTC, it was P2291... motor ran again for a few seconds and has refused to start since. The Lift pump/ filter housing underneath the truck has a leak that was only noticed after it initially stopped running.
Fuel Filters were changed and weren't all that dirty when taken out a nice easy brown color, not to dark. Itried keying the lift pump to prime the engine but nada... cracked open the fuel filter in the engine bay and the bowl was DRY
Left the bowl open and primed the engine... i could hear gurgling but after 4 key on and offs no fuel ever made it to the bowl... i figured it would have made it by then... Put 5 gallons in the tank because it was showing low.
I can hear and feel the pump humming when i flip the key on.
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TBC fault has been showing on my 2006 Ford F-250 for a couple of years dealer said it wasn't an issue--- check engine light has been on for months, then lost speedometer back in November. Intermittently radio and fuel gauge shut off while driving--- stared needing a boost in really cold weather for the last month.
Driving today my battery just died while driving and I had the truck towed to mechanic--- they put new battery in and ran electrical diagnostics. Saying that it might be timing chain/cam shaft OR electrical components for computer system... I'm lost and so are they and don't want to spend thousands while they diagnose the source.....
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My early 04 runs great until I tow my 24ft rv any distance over a 2 or 3 hour period. When I exit the eway to fuel up or take a break it will stumble and this last time it quit running all together. I use my scanguage, all Temps good while towing never go faster then 65mph, new batteries etc. I had it towed to a local diesel repair shop that I have used before (all the 6.0 problems, oil cooler, egr hpfp, ficm).. When I Went to see them a day later, told me truck started right up and ran great, pulled a few minor codes, none that would have caused my issues. Scanner based testing passed air management, injector balance, all cylinders even.
When they originally scanned, it did show multiple docs for injector contributing, egr insufficient flow, 2 glow plugs and cam/crank sensor, but after cool down again started up and ran great. Truck has 200k on it. Last oil analysis showed internal engine in great shape. I trust this shop and this is not the first 6.0 they have worked on, I am just learning now of taking the rv on the road now. It would be difficult to hook rv up and just runaround to try and replicate what happened and be able to get to any repair facility. Truck is stock with exception of 4 inch exhaust,turbo back, no tuner etc. Also shop and I checked ICP and it is good, quarter volt. It was replaced with pigtail a few years ago.I also have the blue spring upgrade .Just drove to town and back and it runs perfect!
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I'm really bad with cars but I'll try to be as specific as possible.
Car: 2002 VW Jetta
Basically the car will just stall out of nowhere while driving (not stopped at a light), I would say usually about 10-20 minutes after I started driving. After this, when I try to start it, it makes that noise like it is trying to start but the actual ignition doesn't happen. it usually takes me about 15 minutes to start it up again.
In addition to this, when driving, the RPM seems to randomly drop off often, and the car also jerks frequently, especially when I press on the pedal quickly.
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I have a 01 F550 Super Duty with a dynamic wheel lift system. One of my drivers was driving the truck when it just stopped running. I can't figure out what's happened. I think I have checked everything and yet it just turns over but won't start...
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I have a 2005 f252 6.0 diesel with electronic climate control and when my a/c comes on it surges/stalls my truck and throws several codes (P0108, 0403, 0405, 2104, 2123, 2138, 2139, 2140) and disables my gas pedal. I know I am loosing my 5v reference, but not sure where. I have replaced my compressor, alternator, both batteries, low pressure switch, accumulator, oriface tube.
I've disconnected several 5 v reference sensors and all gives me the same results. if I disconnect my low pressure switch my defrost and heater works fine and no issues, but this is not engaging my compressor. when I plug the low pressure switch back in , the same issues happen, I checked my fuses, and swapped the relay in the battery box. Looking for drawings of the circuitry or wiring diagrams.
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I have a 2002 7.3 with the 4r100 173k miles. If your nice to it she drives fine, but if you get on it the torque converter will slip/stall kinda revs up like 300 rpm then slams really hard between 1st and 2nd. Other gears work fine. I've only had it not happen like 10 times since I've owned the truck ..... I don't really beat on it except for towing which I'm starting to do a lot of. Wondering if putting a new stock torque converter in it is worth it.? Not gona blow the bank on a TC unless I'm putting a brand new trans in the truck. Which I don't think it needs in the near future.
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New issue I've discovered , when stopping , the RPM's drop down to 500, truck acts like it wants to stall , then goes up to 750 RPM's . Then it's fine . Doesn't hesitate when accelerating . Idles slightly rough after start up , about 30 seconds . I've checked the air filter , cleaned the IAC and MAF. Fuel filter is only a year old . What I should check next ?
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250 2006 Superduty v10. Codes p2106 and p2135 ... Only occasionally when coming to a stop it shudders like it would stall. It happens for just a few seconds then ok again but wrench light comes on. After the next shut off and start the light goes out. I had the throttle control position sensor checked and they said it was ok. Got a software update at Ford. I hate to just start replacing expensive parts. I have about 60000 miles and it is a great truck otherwise.
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While driving up hill at 60mph the truck lost power. Rpm jumped up as to change gears as it hit 55mph. Still losing power until it shut off. I tried to restart and just got a click from the solenoid. No engine codes whatsoever. Battery had 12.1 volts but when turning the key to start in getting 8 volts. Had it towed home. Today I swapped batteries with my other truck and same click noise from solenoid. All lights, radio, ect still work. Where should I start? Alternator, fuses...?? 2008 f250 5.4 ...
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I have a 2006 Ford F-250 5.4l the symptoms are when it's warm it has half power and it will stall at idle. What I have done with the truck is.
New cam phasers
new chain
new tensioners
new vct solenoids
new oil pump
new plugs
new ignition coils
new stock cam shafts
new rockers
new lash adjusters
new exhaust manifolds both sides
new muffler
oil change with the right oil
ran it with sea foam in the crankcase before oil change
new fuel pump module
new evap vent control
new abs speed sensor
I cleaned throttle body with brake cleaner ... Scanned it after a 15 min ride of having to use 2 feet to drive it. The engine codes that came up are p0022 iacv short to ground and p1000 readiness test not complete. I also got p1804 4 wheel drive high indicator circuit failure p1808 4 wheel drive low indicator circuit failure .... Not sure what else to try.
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