Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Front Driver Side Wheel Making Clunking Noise When Hit Bump?
Dec 28, 2013
My front driver side wheel is making a clunk noise when I hit a bump. I replaced the wheel bearing hub assembly and discovered both axle seals were bad.
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Here's the deal. I have a 2001 F250 4x4 and I am getting a noise in the front drivers side wheel. The noise is not a grind or clunk, but its like a u-joint is rubbing inside an empty cylinder kind of. Anyways, it seems like it does it only with small bumps. I took off my oem hubs and re-installed them and the noise went away for about a week. Now I replaced them with manual locking hubs and the noise is back. One other thing I notice is if i put the switch to 4x4 the noise goes away. I checked all major components for the steering and suspension and nothing was loose. The front end is tight. Is there anything inside the axle that would cause this? I dont know what to check for anymore. Where else to check?
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99 F-250 Ext cab 4x4 7.3 285,000 miles.
I got home today opened my door and got snaked in the face with the smell of brakes. I got out of the truck then I heard the drivers side rear brakes popping as they are cooling down. I reached down to touched the wheel and it's crazy hot. Opened the garage and went to retrieve the infared thermometer. The rotor/caliper was 350 degrees, hub was 150 degrees, axle tube was 90 degrees.
I took the wheel off and inspected stuff. The rotors do have some heat spots, the caliper visibly looks okay but not 100%. The pads look like even wear. I am guessing that the caliper either is hanging up or I have a wheel bearing going? The passenger side was like 80 degrees on everything. There is a slight shimmy while driving which to me feels to me like the beginning of warped rotors. I don't hear anything to me that screams wheel bearing noise wise.Brakes or bearings?
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Had the death wobble a couple of months ago. Changed all shocks, steering stabilizer to bilsteins; new tires (stock), ready lift stabilizer(stock, no lift) had it digitally aligned. All was perfect. Until my new intermittent steering issues. It appears to happen when making a 90 degree turn, say a right or left onto a perpendicular roadway. As truck straightens out, you'd think the front drivers side wheel is going to fall off(you'd think the lugs are missing).
Pull int a parking lot, drive in a few circles, and all back to normal. Can't replicate every time, force for s few days with no issues, then it might happen again. Other intermittent issue is sometimes, again out of no where, truck will pull and track to the right or left. Pull the steering wheel the opposite direction, it'll track the other way. Again, pull int parking lot, do a few figure eight circles and back to normal. Alignment shop and regular mechanic say everything is tight, ball joint look fine.
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I have a 2003 F350 srw 6.0. 4x4. Front driver side wheel bearing went out. Went to the auto parts store got a replacement. Got it all tore apart, put the new one on and the lockout didn't seem to fit right. Is there a difference in wheel bearing assemblies for electronic shift on the fly and regular lockout? I have the electronic shift on the fly lockouts and it had just a little bit of play in it when I put the snap ring back in.
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I bought a 2000 F250 V10 Super Cab. Oddly after a few weeks it has grown on me. There has been a clunking noise out of the right front over bumps. I traced it to a bad axle bearing. The u joint moves up and down about a 1/2 inch. Besides pulling the hub/bearing assembly out and removing the axle are there any surprises getting the old bearing out?
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I've got a 2008 f-250 extra cab. A small bump will cause the rear driver side door to pop open. What I have to do to fix it, I don't want the grandkids falling out.
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I have a E99 F350 7.3L 4x4 I know some or most of you have already probably replaced this part and or pulled a front axle shaft out. So here is my question...In the pictures provided you can see what I think everyone is calling a "Dust Seal" and as you can see it is bad and making a very terrible noise when i hit a bump...I was wondering what parts I would need to replace this seal? I tried looking it up and just get lost in all of the other things....I have found write-ups for the axle being removed while changing ball joints but none by it self to just replace this seal.
[URL] ....
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Have a rear wheel bearing making some noise. A friend told me that it is always the outer bearing that goes first . Can you replace the bearing without replacing the race?
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I have a 2013 f250 6.2, I bought the truck brand new only have about 3000 miles on it and the other day I noticed that the drivers side front is lower then the passengers side front, the drivers side is about one inch lower, this doesn't seem right, also my drivers side front wheel seems to be pushed forward about one inch to the bumper that also doesn't seem right.
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Big trail of clear liquid on garage floor this morning. Truck is dripping on drivers side to rear of drivers side wheel well. Not brake fluid. Trans or antifreeze would have a color to it and a smell. None of that. Was quite humid last night and I did have truck out for about an hour run time. Trying to figure what the heck this is. Don't want to waste my or dealer service time if it's just AC moisture.
2016 f350 crew cab miles under 8k
Where the ac condensate drain is passenger or drivers side?
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Our 2002 Mountaineer with AWD started to have a clunk noise in the front driver side wheel area. It happens only when you take you foot off the gas between 30 and 65 MPH. If you slowly ease up off the gas no noise you have to totally remove your foot from the gas. It sounds like something needs grease or like a gear is a little loose. I have seen some post about noise but have not found one that happens in this situation.
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2012 truck, started making a noise today. I cannot tell what it is, but seems to be coming from the passenger front suspension, its a crunching/light clunking sound, happens when going over bumps, when the truck pitches one way or the other turning, and coming to a stop....
Truck has 6k miles, I did a quick visual inspection this afternoon, didn't notice much, but the sway bar endlink looked a bit odd though, not sure if normal, its gota little bend too it and seems to just contact the vac line mounted behind it, seemed unusual...
Maybe its its just one of the crappy rancho branded shocks is junk?
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I thought there was a v10 specific superduty section like how the psd does, but my thread went in the "performance, engine, troubleshooting" section.
I wanted more exposure than that particular small viewed area.
I don't have a video of the noise, but my 99 f450 v10 5spd has some iffy noise coming from the front. I've read so many threads on this and they either end with "my motor had 1-2-3 bad pistons" or "my flexplate was cracked" and all that dealt with chain tensioners were never finished.
I know what piston slap sounds like (worked on many cobras and lightnings with forged pistons that had it) and have experience with bad wrist pins and broken piston skirts, and this noise doesn't sound like any of it.
Noise is a loud clicking/clunking/Detroit diesel idle noise. When you rev the engine up it doesn't lighten or get better, only worse as rpm goes up. Oil is terrible looking, I'll be getting that changed this week.
Story on truck. I've had this thing for 4 years with blown motor. I got a buddy that acquired a parts truck and he said it ran good. I dropped my truck off and he swapped the engine. I got my truck back running, but with this engine noise. He said it needs to get run some more and change oil.
I think it's timing tensioners, my buddy says it will come out of it, a mechanic friend says it's going to blow up "because they all do" and I don't really want to replace the engine again.
If it's tensioners, how big of a job is it. I have the cam clamps and crank stop and the ford tools to make sure crank and cams don't rotate while apart.
I'm just 650 miles from my truck and may need someone else to do the work. Which sucks.
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The used 2004 F-350 I bought has developed a driver's side front end howl between 45 and 60 mph over the last 1000 miles. I tried all the standard stuff, rebalanced tires, rotated tires, put on a set of tires from a friend's F-350, replaced wheel bearings, replaced ball joints and nothing has worked.
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So to start at the beginning.... Traveled across Canada East to West towing 11000lb travel trailer, no problem. Have used 4x4 in a few campsites to pull out of a pitch without spinning the wheels and causing damage to the site when it has been really wet. All good.
Got to Banff in December and the town was an Ice rink, engaged 4x4 and all good. Crossed the Rockies and the 4x4 starts making grinding noises. Up and down some mountains and squeaking, grinding noise then clunking.
I have manual hubs, disengage and the noise all goes away. Engage 1 hub and no noise. Engage both hubs, noise back.
I bought some needle bearings and went to swap them. Got hubs apart and they look good. No scoring on the drive shafts. They are not dry, but as I have them open, repack them with grease anyway.
Do more research... Remove ABS sensor and repack main bearings with grease. (broke one sensor pulling it out, too cold plastic brittle oops). Still clunking noises.
The universal joints look good, doesn't appear to be any play in them. However, the axle seal (knuckle seal) (F81Z-3254-CB) does move around a lot in it's metal casing. It is tight on the shaft, but with the hub off, I can move it in and out, and move it side to side. If I had ESOF hubs I guess they would not be locking as I'm sure there would be no vacuum in there!
Question is then, would this seal be allowing the universal joint to wobble under load in 4x4 mode? Would this wobble be the cause of the rumble? As it is labelled as a seal and not a bearing, I wouldn't of thought this would have been a loaded point, and the weight would have been taken by the associated bearings and it could be run without this seal? But if it is not this, then I'm still looking for a clue as to what is making the rumble....
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I've had the 450 a little over two years. Its used 95% of the time for hauling trailers, including the toy hauler. Has not given me a single problem since day one and now has around 21,000 on the odometer.
Lately I've noticed a "grinding" sound coming from the front end somewhere. It is most apparent when I'm turning at slow speeds; especially left. To describe it would be similar to worn out brake pads or maybe a wheel bearing going bad. It does it whether I'm on the brakes or not.
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So I had a strange vibration coming from the drivers side wheel intermittently. Only when the hubs were in Auto , by locking them it would not happen. With hubs in Auto when it occurs switching into 4H made it stop immediately.
It would occur after small bumps and sound like driving over a rumble strip. I figured it sounds like a needle bearing in the hub going wonky and just replaced the entire sealed unit. So that should be it right? Nope.....
The vibration has changed tone and sound but still occurred after a slight bump to the right Driver Side tower. It now is a much deeper tone then before.
I made sure everything was reassembled correctly and tight. I notice however that if I remove the ESOF lockouts to rule them out it still occurs (no lockout in at all ) .
I can move the outer DS stub shaft quite a bit with one finger when the lockouts are not installed. Which would explain that why when the lockouts are installed and I lock the hubs it doesn't occur as the end of the stub shaft rides in the lockout.
I haven't changed the outer axle seals , but they really didn't look shot. It appears as if the play in the axle is coming from the pumpkin.
Side note: I took apart everything and cleaned it , there was mud, crud, dirt and water throughout the hum to and into the lockouts. see pix below for the mess and carnage. I cleaned and lubed everything up.
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2011 f250 6.2. put it in the shop to have the rotors turned, and front brakes while they were under there. Now it pulls to the right whenever you apply the brakes. Can smell brakes on the left front after a short drive time. Replaced that caliper and it's still doing the same thing. I'm stumped at this point.
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Got off the freeway today, driving along about 40 or so thought I smelled something hot like something burning. Stopped in a parking lot and smoke was rolling out from drivers side rear wheel. Look under and oil is dripping from inside of the wheel. Figure the caliper was hung up and got so hot it took the seal out. I can't get to it right now and the shop says I can't get in until next week, need my truck now. How long could I get by the way it is IF I take it real easy.
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My truck has an intermittent shake with a grinding/binding kind of noise. It seems to happen at lower speeds, generally when slowing down and turning. When I apply the brakes or speed up it seems to stop the noise.
The rubber/plastic seal on the back of the wheel hub is loose on both drivers and passenger side but I don't think that is the problem. I'm wondering if it is the u-joints or something.
The brakes look shiny and i don't see any scratches on them so I don't think there is a rock or something in there. I have the wheel hubs in the auto setting, and it is a 4x4. The truck is a early 99 7.3L with a leveling kit and 230k miles.
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