Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Wipers Turn On At Startup After High-idle Mod Installed
Dec 15, 2015
Per the instructions I used upfitter #4 and a 21k resistor. High idle works, slight delay and gradual ramp up to 1150 rpm, but why does the wiper turn on for just one wipe now at startup?
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Sometimes when I start my truck (maybe 2-3x per week) my windshield wipers will wipe one time randomly. They're not on and haven't been on for days.
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I have a F350 diesel which has recently had a new AC compressor, Now when I go to stop at a stop sign or slow down using brakes the wipers come on and swipe a time or two. I never noticed this before the new compressor was installed so I was wondering if something might have happened while installing compressor? Now I think stepping on the brakes makes the wipers come on, but not until the truck slows down and is just idling.
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About 2 weeks ago, my wipers just decided not to turn off anymore. While in the off position, they still work intermittently. about every 22 seconds, drives me nuts. Changed the relay. Didn't do squat.....
2011 F250 6.2 liter engine w/55,000 miles
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Ok, so driving in intermittent rain the other day, I had the wiper on the slower of the 2 constant "on" positions. I pushed the sprayer (bugs) and went to turn the speed down, and the wipers stayed on.
Tried running the switch and sprayer through the on/off positions a few more times, still wouldn't go off. They WOULD go faster (fastest on setting) but not slower. (None of the intermittent settings.)
They also stayed on when the truck was off, only way to shut them off was to pull the large pink "main wiper" fuse, #106.
Any ways to trouble-shoot? Of just replace the whole switch/assembly? As far as I can tell everything else works as normal.
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99 F250 super duty 7.3
Had new ball joints installed and alignment. Steering does not return to center. Returns a little on a tight turn like in town but difficult when just changing lanes in town or not. Took it to another shop and they said the ball joints were too tight. right side pretty tight and left side really tight. Moog ball joints. First mechanic says they will get better with a few miles on them. Second mechanic says not so.
Also, have new shocks but get a bouncing in the front when at 45 mph and goes away at almost 50 mph.
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So I have a 99 F250SD, earlier this year my wipers started going on by themselves, switch didn't seem to effect them, wouldn't turn off with the switch but would with the ignition off. Then they stopped working all together along with the washer. Checked fuses and relays, put a new switch in and still no dice. When I move the switch the wiper/washer relays do not click at all.
I've tried tracing the wires but haven't been able to find any issues there. The gem is as clean and new looking as one made yesterday. Is there a pinout test I can run on the plug into the motor? or which color wires coming out of the fuse box to check? I'd really like to get this fixed so I can drive my truck this winter.
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My F-350 has developed a new problem. It wont start. It wont even turn over. All Electricity is on, glow plugs glow, gauges work, lights work, but when you turn the key to the start position noting happens. Some of the indicators go dark.
I even tried a jump thinking my batteries no longer handle the load. Same results. I suppose I can remove the batteries and take them in for testing. In fact, I'll probably do that now.
2002 F-350 Superduty, 7.3 Ltr, Turbocharged. 260000+ miles.
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I'm going to cut right to the chase, when did ford stop having the diesel high idle when it is cold? I have a 2015 350 I bought last August and assumed it would high idle like previous power strokes. I even put a ts6 chip in my 97 just for high idle option to keep the motor warm when idling around our farm. I realize ford probably doesn't want trucks idling long because it kills mpg and isn't good for the emission system but to be honest I could really care less about mpg as long as it's decent and a high idle would keep emissions pushed through. Is there an option or anyway you can get the 6.7 liter to high idle?
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I just got a 2003 f250 5.4 triton and it has a terrible knock. I've hear of the cam phaser problems but this thing knocks at high rpm and at idle so I doubt it would be a phaser, I thought it could be a rod bearing but I'm not losing any oil pressure. Its a pretty loud knock I don't have money for a mechanic to diagnosis it...
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I have a 1999 Ford F550 with a 6.8L V10 and a 4R100 Auto.
I want to run an underhood hydraulic pump, like what a wrecker uses only I want to use it to run a generator under the truck.
How can I get a 6.8 to idle up to 1200 or so? I searched the Body builders guide and it looks as if the idle up is for the 7.3 only.
My truck also is not a 2005 and up like the other posters, who can take advantage of a drive by wire.
Also I doubt my transmission has a PTO cover so I think a generator option using that route is a dead end. What are my options to idle the truck up to 1200?
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New too my Ford, but anyway it's -10 Celsius. My trucks been idling for a few hours and probably will all day because of my job. Usually idles about 600rpm normally. So today the oil temp was about 80degrees Celsius. Then the truck idled up too about 1000rpm for a while. If I touch the gas it goes back to normal idle speed but then starts idling up again after 30 sec. What temp does the truck want too keep it at?
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I hooked up one of my upfitter switches in my 2007 F-350 diesel.
I would like to do the same thing in my 2015 F-350 diesel truck.
I would like to use it to attempt to get the truck warm before use as I am experiencing poor heat characteristics in this truck.
See this thread,
[URL]
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1999 F-250 V10 .... Truck was running perfectly fine except for a random high idle sometimes when put into park but if I gave it a good rev it would drop back down to normal. I assumed it was a dirty IAC or something and figured I'd get around to it later kinda deal. I also had a coolant leak from what I thought was the intake manifold to head gasket on the drivers side right in the front where the upper radiator hose meets the intake manifold so i added water here and there no issues.
One night I need to pull a trailer and didn't have the wiring set up for it in the back so I stopped at advance auto and bought one of those kits that plugs into your brake wiring harness and then plugs into the trailer. I tested it in the parking lot with the trailer and it was all sorts of messed up. My reverse lights stayed on my brake lights didn't work either etc. Turns out it was for the wrong years but plugs matched up coincidentally. I returned the kit and drove home just fine.
Next morning on my way to work truck started misfiring like crazy idle was bouncing all over the place lack of power etc. I took it to advance again after work even though no check engine light came on I still pulled 2 codes. P0300 which is multiple random misfire (no specific bank) and a P0401 which is an EGR Insufficient Flow code. I took it by a local shop I get my oil down at and they told me it was probably the fuel pump that they go bad in these trucks alot.
So I replaced the fuel pump and the fuel filter. Nothing changed so I thought maybe that coolant leak had dripped down to the plugs or possibly the intake gasket was getting worse and leaking coolant into the air flow ports since it was thought to already be a problem. So i pulled everything off the top and firgured id go through it all why I had it apart. I replaced the intake gasket but noticed when i took it apart that it wasnt the gasket that the head it self had a small pin hole leak in the very front where the coolant fed into below that upper neck that bolts to the intake manifold. I patched it with jb weld/ quick steel/ and rtv. Yes I know it wont last but just for the time being until I figure out the main issue. Replaced the plugs with motocraft plugs checked all my coils for grime and corrosion or what not and they all seemed fine and cleaner than expected. replaced the gaskets and threw it all back together. I also cleaned out the EGR and IAC with air and brake cleaner etc.
Blew all my lines out with air and everything seemed fine. I also replaced my DPFE sensor. Started it up ran fine at idle for like 5 min no coolant leaks or anything so I thought I was golden then about 500 ft through the neighborhood on a test drive the exact same misfire came back doing the same thing with the idle etc. I'm going to check my fuses tonight but I'm starting to think that maybe when I plugged in that wrong wire adapter for the trailer that I may have screwed up something with the PCM. Only because the lights were all out of wack and literally the next morning I started having these issues. I'm lost if its not a fuse. I would really hate to buy a PCM and not need it especially after all the parts I've bought and not needed already.
The vacuum lines all seemed fine and intact as well with no cracks or leaks.
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I would like to do the high idle mod with my 2006 F-350 using the upfitter switches. I've seen a couple of threads about this but they are not real clear to me and don't mention the 2006.
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My '01 recently seized up and a buddy determined it was the AC pump. Replaced the belt with the bypass version. A month later, I moved across the state to Iowa. A couple weeks into living here I turned the truck on and it was idling really high (about 2500-3000) but would settle down to around 1100 when put in gear. However, shifting into gear is causing a progressively worse "jump" into gear. Hadn't really had the money or the time to take it in so I let it mostly sit unless I absolutely needed the truck.
Today, the idle is still high and does seem to cycle a bit in that it will rev up close to 3000 then settle back down around 2200 or so and then rev back up again and so on. I backed it down the drive into the sun for a little warmth and it darn near jumped a foot when I shifted. I turned the heater on defrost so I could clear the windshield and absolutely nothing came out.
I can't get into a garage for a few days to get it hooked up for diagnostics. So I thought I'd try here. My research leads me to think part of my problem may be a vacuum leak and/or maybe a sensor somewhere.
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I have a 2010 F250 super duty. I use it for work so I am not sure what happened to it as others have driven it, but here is the issue. When i start it up in 2wd, the 4x4 Low light flashes continually. If I turn the switch to 4x4 high, the 4x4 high light flashes continually. if i turn it to 4x4 low, that light flashes continually. I have read the forums but haven't been able to find the problem/diagnosis for this.
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My steering got real "heavy" almost as if I had no power steering so I replaced the power steering pump. The steering got a little easier but is still very stiff. It's extremely hard to turn at low speed just off idle...I have to rev the engine a bit to get it to turn.This is on my 1999 7.3 f350...I've ran 33" and 35" tires on it it's whole life and this is the first PS pump I've replaced since 1999...never replaced the steering box.
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[URL] ....
The problem with my truck is not that its regen'ing too often, the problem is that its STUCK in regen cycle. For the past 4-5 days my truck has been going into regen about 1-2 min after i start driving it, every single time i start her up. If i start my truck in the morning and let it warm up for a few min, i come out and my truck is idling higher then normal and has an increased exhaust smell, but when i aply the brake the idle goes back to normal. Then i start driving up the street and BAM "cleaning exhaust filter" message comes up and the and immediately the sound of the exhaust and induction changes and it sounds like sputtering/knocking.
Sometimes the the engine will flutter in decel or shutdown. HORRIBLE gas mileage, Reduced engine response and power, and white smoke is cooler temps. Basically all of the normal signs of a regen cycle, am i wrong? Im pretty sure its either a dpf sensor or possibly something wrong with the DPF? I haven't had one problem with my 2010 besides an egr valve and she has 167k miles and is completely stock and im very happy with my truck! 2010 6.4L
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I've noticed lately that sometimes when I start the truck up that the wipers will cycle once. I do not have the courtesy wipe feature enabled and I'm pretty sure I'm not bumping the wiper/washer button. I like my truck but I've had more weird things go on with this truck than any other I've ever owned, I'm starting to think it's possessed. It's a 2013 F250XL with the 6.2 ....
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So I'm getting a mild to severe shudder depending on load and acceleration rate from stop to 10-15mph... It's worse if I'm on an incline...This has started since having a lift installed...I'm guessing it has everything to do with pinion angle...right?
1999' F350 7.3L 4x4
Crew Cab Long Bed
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