Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Whining Noise From Alternator?
Nov 19, 2014
I have had this whining noise that I'm not sure what it is. It sounds like its comin from the alternator area. There are three symptoms that are confusing me though, 1st is I only hear this whine as the weather starts getting colder and the colder it is the louder it is. 2nd is it only happens around 1800rpms like when it's getting ready to shift to the next gear. I can get it to whine when I'm parked and bringing the rpms up. 3rd is after 10-15 minutes when the truck is warmed up - no more whine. The truck is used very little duing the summer and I had this whine all winter last year. Alternator appears to be working fine and I do plow a few driveways every storm. Money is tight so I don't want to replace the Alternator an find it wasn't the problem.
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I have a 2014 super duty extended cab truck and at times I get a vibration noise which seems to come from somewhere around the antenna. The little rubber flapper at the base seems to move and isn't tight against the metal. Is this causing the noise...
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I purchased an 1999 F250 Super Duty truck last Sept., it ran great all winter, now when I accelerate I notice a whining type noise (that's the only way I can describe it) it only does this during acceleration not @ idle, could this be a bad water pump? However there are no leaks or puddles of anything in my driveway.
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I noticed my truck makes a high pitched whining noise. It does it at idle and while acceleration up to 40 mph or so. The pitch of the wine increases with RPM'S. It is not the cold start whine issue I have researched on YouTube.
It is in the cold or warmth. No difference. It's always there. My 2012 6.2 did not sound like this at all. I have crawled under the truck and it appears like it is coming from the transmission.
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I have a 2003 F250 SD with 130K miles. I primarily use it to pull a race car, about 5000 lbs is all. It has all the upgrades, from studs to EGR delete. Ford replaced the automatic transmission in 2005. I'm looking at a truck newer than 2011, but thinking either a flex fuel 250 or diesel. I want it loaded and 4WD, but they seem expensive.
Anyway, I have bad front wheel bearings. I know this because of the low rumble noise and how it acts when I rock the steering. How tough are they?? I build my entire race cars, so I have a well-equipped garage and some ability to cuss, but I don't have a lot of time. A buddy wants to do it for $300 total for both sides plus parts cost.
Also, this is the bad part I really need input on. It has a whining when at light throttle load and above 50-60 MPH. This seems to come from the floorboard area behind me. Gear changes do NOT affect the pitch, but a change in throttle crowding makes it louder and weaker. It has no coast down noise at all, and the noise pitch seems to track the drive shaft speed. It is a whine much like the low gear set in an automatic trans, but it does it in any gear with or without 4WD on. The only thing that affects the level is slightly pushing the accelerator, speed, or weight I am towing.
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I bought a 2004 6.0L F-250 used a few weeks ago. There have been a few problems here and there that I have been competent enough to fix. I am now facing a problem of A: the truck not starting (I believe it was just a battery problem, charged and started fine). But also B: I have had a slightly frayed serpentine belt that I noticed a few days ago. After I got the truck running from my the no-start and driving it around the block I parked it and went inside. Came back out a few minutes later and I tried to start it. It hesitated a little bit but started with a loud whining noise and white smoke coming from the belt. Turned the engine off and saw on one of the bottom wheels (pulleys?) some residue that looked and smelled like burnt rubber. Is this just simply a need for a new belt?
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I have a really loud whining kind of noise found that its the wheel seal rubbing on the inner part of the wheel bearing. I was just curious if its safe to drive with the spindle removed from the axle?
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Got my 240 amp alternator in and had all new 1/0 GA battery cables with a 250amp fuse in line made to do all new lines. I started tonight and found a small line going from the alt connector down the power line to a fuseible link (fuse) all in the power line
I wanna do away with the main 4 ga alt wire but obviously I can't do anything with that line going to the plug. Can I put a connector on it and wire that into the one side of the 250amp fuse.
The only other option is to add a wire to beef up the stock line ....
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The V10 in my service truck took the long slow ride. I located and am in the middle of replacing said engine. My question is, how difficult would it be to install a second alternator in this truck, considering I have it torn down for replacement?
It a 2000 F350 with a V10. I'm looking for more power as I have mounted on the Knaphiede service body a IMT 1015 crane, 3200 lb capacity. I would like to install a power inverter to be able to run an air compressor in the field.
Am I looking for a new harness? Etc?
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My trouble is that the alternator light on my 2004 F-250 Diesel began to come on occasionally, but never constant. Taking in the fact that it was still the original alternator, and over 70,000 miles, I figured it was time for a new one. I installed the new one and after two days the light came on again. I tested the alternator and it read 13.84 volts while running. With the engine shut off, I had 12.59, and 12.6 volts at the batteries. What may be my problem? Diesel down.
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I put an O'reileys alternator in my truck today. Drove it most the day and did some plowing with it and it was fine. I just went out to run to the gas station and now the battery light is on. The voltage is still good.
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I am really hoping that my instrument cluster in not working because my alternator went out at the same time. I really hope they are connected somehow. I really need a wiring diagram for this one. Just got the truck last week and have been taking care of the little things to get it fixed up and make it my own. my new rear step bumper came in today. I will be dropping off the the alternator for a rebuild tomorrow. So looking for a wiring diagram?
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OK I have 14.04 volts at the batteries with the engine running but my battery light is on. I had the alternator checked off the engine and on the engine and it tests good. Shows good batteries and good charging. Is there something internal to the alternator that would make the light come on even though the alternator is charging ok? Or is there something else that would make the light come on. This is on a 1999 F250 Superduty Powerstroke 7.3.
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I have a 2000 excursion that stopped charging. The battery light is on . I replaced the alternator but it still will not charge. I have checked all the fuses. Not sure where to go from here...
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2002 f350 super cab 7.3 diesel, replaced alternator because wasn't getting charge to batts, Napa guy checked batts and determined no charge, replaced alt, still no charge, have 12v at alt post with engine running or not. My ? is, is there a fuse in here somewhere that I'm missing? Went through all fuses in fuse panel all good.
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I have a 1999 f-350 V-10. My battery light came on, making me believe that my alt. has quit. I can't see the plaque on the alt so I can't tell the amps. Does my serial number on the truck tell the amps, or do i have to remove the alt to check the amps?
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So I was going to get the truck washed, but 2 blocks down the road smoke out of the engine bay.
Pulled over popped the hood and the alternator is on fire. Extinguished it self out but the burnt electrical smell.....sheesh..
Anyways, could I potentially drive the truck to the dealer, or will it catch on fire again????
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My alternator quit charging last night. Was pretty much a sudden onset as I was driving down the road and left off the accelerator the battery light came on and lights dimmed a bit. When I stepped on the accelerator again they bat. light went off and the lights came back up.
At idle I'm at 11.77v. I've pulled the plug on the back of the alternator and I'm getting voltage on both the red and green wires that go into the plug with the engine running. Is this correct?
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So about a month or so ago i had my alternator replaced because my truck wouldnt start and had it checked and replaced well tonite it started rough dont know what to think what/where should i check first?
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Pretty much as the title says, I'm having an interesting electrical gremlin. Ford 7.3 super crew 2002 lariat LE.
I have batteries from 2015 that are losing their charge, both of them. It's like the alternator isn't charging them. Truck will struggle to start until jump started, then she's fine.
Symptoms are:
ABS light comes on when as best I can tell the batteries aren't getting charged. Not the battery indicator.
Now that the batteries are low enough, on the instrument cluster the little light the powers the mile LCD screen dims when it's not getting power (but it's fine when the batteries have charge.)
All accessories work when driving, but I haven't been able to drive a long while on the "not charging phase" to see how low they're go.
Batteries register dead (now) because they haven't gotten charge in a while.
When the alternator IS charging or "connected" I can leave the truck idle and she'll charge the batteries, truck will start just fine on the next run (no parasitic drain.)
Driving causes this to happen randomly, doesn't happen when I'm stationary, nor do I believe it CHANGES state (so if I'm idle it won't suddenly NOT charge if it was charging before.)
Narrowed down to 2 probable things.
Alternator
Bad alternator to battery cables
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I had to replace my alternator (single unit) and after installation it seems only 1 of the 2 batteries is charging when I check them while the truck is running. What check or could be the problem?
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