Did the blue spring upgrade today. The driver side battery was disconnected for 2 hours. After finishing the upgrade I reconnected the battery. When I touched the positive cable to the battery I heard a fuse blow. Now I have no lights, chimes, instruments, gauges, NOTHING, everything is dead. Cannot find any fuse blown. Is there a master fuse?
View 1 RepliesAm i correct in starting to look into why I can't hook a scanner or Torque Pro bluetooth up to my truck and starting with blown Cig lighter fuse? (Cig lighter doesnt work, power port does)
View 1 RepliesI noticed I was not shifting into 4x4 electronically and replaced the blown fuse in the engine compartment. Now the 4x4 light goes on, but I don't think it is engaging the system...
The back end breaks free very easily, but there seems to be a little pull in the front. Is it possible to have unequal power to the wheels?
Horn isn't working found fuse blown. Replaced fuse and horn stays on. Swapped relays still stays on. With fuse out pressing left side of horn cover on steering wheel I can feel/hear relay click. Pressing right side not so much. What and where to check? Is there a way to disconnect the horn buttons on the steering wheel?
View 1 Repliesi was replacing my glow plug relay and my ratchet hit one of the small wires and sparked. i went in the truck and I heard a really fast clicking noise at the fuse box. I opened it up a very top small relay was the one clicking. i replaced it and it still clicks. the truck is TOTALLY DEAD no power to anything. I checked ALL the fuses under dash and under the hood, they are all good. both batts are at 12. 9 volts. what would kill the whole truck like this. is there a main fuse somewhere? I really need to get this going tonight. it's gonna rain all day tomorrow and this is my only Tow Truck for my business.
View 14 RepliesLike the title says, if it sits over night the battery will be about dead. The cables were replaced 6 months ago and are in good shape. I could not find and bad spots on the wires I can get to. One odd thing to note, with the key out of the switch I opened the passenger door to check the glove box light and the truck started chiming like I had opened the drivers door with the key still in the switch. Would that indicate maybe the key switch could be the issue?
View 14 RepliesMy 1999 f-250 7.3 has been sitting for months, and I went to start it and both batteries are dead. Replaced both batteries and at first the alarm went off like normal. Turned the alarm off, hit the unlock button and it beeped like normal. Got in and stuck the key in the ignition and tried to turn it over. Completely dead. Now I cant even get the alarm to go off, showing no signs that its even getting any power. And all I'm hearing is a low clicking noise in the cab.
View 5 RepliesI got my battery replaced Monday evening and drove it home. Tuesday it drove fine, and Wednesday afternoon the power steering went out on the road and the car pretty much died after I was able to pull into a neighborhood. Before it died all the warning lights kept flashing and a bunch of other stuff on the dashboard was going crazy.
The AAA tech came and did a reading on the battery and told me it was dead, and also noticed there was a mark on one of the terminals which he said was the result of someone trying to jump it (whether incorrectly or not, I'm not sure). All the settings in my car were also reset after I got the car back Monday night.
Anyways, I got the car taken to a dealership and they are telling me the alternator fuse is done and needs to be replaced, upon which they will do another check and make sure the alternator itself is working properly.
My question is, is this the result of the battery being put in improperly/incorrectly?
The 5amp fuse 15, (Stop lite switch, GEM, PCM, 4WABS, Brake shift Interlock, Cluster 7 PCM-Keep Alive memory), is drawing 2.7 amps with key off.
The battery has gone dead two times overnight. The truck will start and run. I don't know where to proceed from this point to isolate the problem.
I bought a 2005 F350 in January of 2012. At the time of purchase, I noticed that the truck seemed slow to turn over. I talked the dealer into installing 2 new 750 CCA Ford batteries at the time of sale.
I have put less than 7,000 miles on the truck since the day I bought it. In August of 2012, I went to start the truck and the batteries were completely dead. I charged them, started the truck, and the next day the truck was dead again.
I took the batteries out, and took them to the dealer. They replaced both of them under warranty. They said that after they charged them, each tested at less than 85 CCA.
In July of 2013, the same thing happened. I used the truck one day, and then the next day the batteries were completely dead. I had them tested at the dealer, and the passenger side battery failed the test. The driver's side passed. They replaced the passenger side under warranty, again. This time, they also cleaned all battery / ground connections and tested the charging system. Everything passed.
Last week, I went to start the truck. Same thing again. Took the truck to the dealer, and both batteries, after charging, failed the test. They replaced both batteries under warranty.This time, on each battery, the dealer had written with yellow paint pen on the batteries AND on the radiator shroud "BATTERY NOT UNDER WARRANTY."
I asked the dealer about this, and they said that since they have replaced 5 batteries in the truck, and since it has 152,000 miles on it, the warranty is no longer valid. I argued that since they have checked the truck thoroughly, and found no issues with the charging system, they can't void the warranty like that.
So, what is the reason why the batteries would fail like that, and that frequently?
When I go on longer trips I connect my iphone 4s via the sync usb so that it can recharge; I still stream audio via bluetooth but it reads all the music from the phone and tells me some of my tracks are missing artist, genre, album interrupting my music after 1-2 minutes of scanning my songs.
One solution would be to find and fix the songs with missing info but I have a lot and don't want to go there. Another solution would be to get a faster 1amp charger from 12v socket instead of the usb 500mA. I may go there eventually but I already have the usb cable.
Any way to tell sync to just leave it be and don't tell me each time?
Trying to perform master reset on sync because, from the title, phone button inoperative, No Aux In, and attempting to connect the ipod, you get "connection error see dealer".
The Owner's manual indicates Fuse 40 protects Sync, GPS and Sirius, so I figure that is the one. When you pull 40 you still have gps and Sirius, so I figure Sync must still have power also. So, what fuse powers the sync module?
Back Story: Ok so in my infinite wisdom I let myself get distracted when I was looking at an 01 F250 V10 Crew Cab. I thought, it needed all new breaks/rotor & 2 calipers. And new carpet and seats, then I would have a good hunting rig.
So I went and looked at the truck in the dark (first mistake). The guy was very honest with me and told me about all the body and interior issues. Even informed me of the caliper that he disconnected because he could not afford to fix it. He informed me that it did burn a little oil and it's been a while since he checked the oil. Well at that point I was going to look under the oil cap to check for any milky residue. Well I got distracted (Second Mistake).
So here we are 2 weeks after getting bringing the truck home. I already replaced the carpet and seats, breaks & rotor & 2 calipers. Well today I decided to go get some new oil and a filter, and do a quick oil change since who knows when it was done last.
Issue:While draining the Oil it seemed like there was an abnormally large amount of oil in this engine. (See photo of bucket full of oil from this rig.) Well didn't think much of it and swapped the filter. And went to add new oil to the engine and found that under the cap was some milky substance.
The V10 has 420K original miles. I have heard that is no big for the V10 but thought it would be good to note this detail. Questions I have: Should I get some kind of test kit to confirm it's a blown head gasket? If so what kind of Kit should I look for? Do you think this truck is worth replacing the head gasket?
Any chance this may just be a known issue for the V10 and I just need to replace some kind of valve? I could not find any you tube videos of a head gasket replacement on a V10 any thoughts where I should look?
My Skills: Just to be clear I don't know anything about the V10 motor. I have a 94 f-250 but have never had to dive in to a head gasket replacement before. I have done a head gasket replacement on smaller engines (IE: car and a jeep) but those were obvious that they had a bad head gasket.
Three times I've had a blown out tire on my '02 F350 crew cab/long bed 4x4 V10 while driving long distances on the freeway. Twice drivers rear, once drivers front.
All 3 times were in warm weather (85-95F). First time (rear) was on the Yokahama's which were on the truck when I bought it and a bit oversized. The date code says they were 10 years old, so I replaced all the tires with OEM sized BFG Rugged Terrains. Then it happened again- front last October. Did about $4K worth of damage. Now my buddy, called me up saying it happened to him (rear) while he was borrowing my truck for a trip.
In the first first two cases, I noticed a wobble. The second time wasn't as bad and stopped when slowed down (75 to 65mph), but it still blew. I specifically mentioned this to my friend to be on the look out and he said it never wobbled, but prior to it blowing the truck started to pull to the left.
In all three cases, the truck wasn't towing anything, but had stuff in the bed. The first two times I was taking my race motorcycle to the track, so probably had about 800lbs worth of gear in the bed & cab. My buddy was probably carrying less weight, but I'm not exactly sure how much. Before my buddy borrowed the truck I set the tires to 70PSI since he was going to drive 400mi down to Barstow and then some light offroading on BLM land.
The alignment was done after October and it has four new shocks. Tires look great, have maybe 15K miles and I rotate them every 5K miles. The only mods to the truck are swapping the 4" F350 rear axle blocks with the 2" F250 to lower the bed.
I did a bad thing last night, I put a jumper in the 20 amp cigar/data link connector and all kinds of things went out, will not shift out of park, no directional, power windows, power mirrors, no brake lights ,no hazards, no wipers, no interior lights and I don't know what ever else is not working.
View 3 Replies2005 FORD F350 Lariat 6.0, 61,000 miles, and in prestine condition. Just got the news the head gasket is blown! HOW DID THIS HAPPEN?!!! My mechanic says to scrap the whole engine because the 6.0 is the worst engine around. This truck should last for years!!!!!
View 14 RepliesI have a 2004 Lariat 4x4 with a no start condition. I had lights, but it wouldn't crank. I then discovered that it would not shift out of park. Turns out that it had a blown fuse. I did not have any of that type (the funky square 20a fuses) so I pulled the heated seats fuse (30a) and threw it in there, tried to start it and blew it right away. Is there a common short to look for on these? I believe that the guy that owned it before me had a satellite radio in it, and could it be a bare wire from that setup possibly blowing the fuse?Just trying to get a head start on tracking down the short.
View 14 RepliesThe spark plug in chamber 2 blew off while the vehicle was in motion (approx 35 mph). Purchased replacement plugs and when I went to install, there was nothing for the plug to grab (i.e. appears that all of the threads on the block/casing are gone . Not sure what my options are.
View 2 RepliesMy problem had been intermittent for last few days. I have a Ford Crew Cab - 7.3 Powerstroke Diesel. The ford store told me it would cost hundreds of dollars to chase this short- to wait til it finally burns out then - bring truck to them.?
My fuse # 45 a 10 AMP fuse . Keeps blowing out. This fuse controls the gauges on dashboard and fuel peddle. I can start engine and if gauges come up like they should- I can place into driver - and give engine fuel from peddle- gauges down dead and no fuel go to motor. It just idles and still runs and will still move forward or backward. But only at idle speed.
I could replace blown fuse - #45 - 10 amp and it would a the first few times would go and work normally.
Now everytime I replace fuse it blows fuse - sometimes after putting 10 or more fuses in- one might work until I stop or put into park. Then fuse blows again??
Last night and today it took no less than 20 - 10amp fuses to get close to home and end up straight wiring with a small piece of electrical wire - severing as a jumper- it ran great - til I stop at mail box and got mail - saw slight smoke and pulled wire quickly out and idled down driveway to house..
So, on my drive home from the pub tonight, my clusters went dead, then came back on, then died again. This behavior repeated for the 5 mile drive home. In addition, I believe the lights weren't working as well. The engine was still running, so I simply continued on home and parked for the night. The only thing I can think of might be the problem is the fact that I replaced the serpentine belt the day before yesterday. Is it possible that the alternator is not charging the battery properly and that is what my problem is?
View 14 RepliesI have been having a problem with my 2002 F250 Super Duty 4x4. It started about 2 months ago. I was in traffic (truck hadn't even been on for 15 minutes). The temp gauge spiked, so I pulled over and turned the truck off. I turned the ignition on and the gauge was normal so I started it and all was fine.
Fast forward a little and every so often about every 3 weeks it would overflow (coolant) but not get to the point that it would overheat. I changed the thermostat and all seemed good to go. Fast forward to yesterday morning. Got in the truck and left to go hunting, and I didn't even make it 10 minutes down the road when I turned the heat on and it blew cold.
I started to see the gauge creep up so I pulled over and shut it down. Upper hose was cold, lower is cold and both heater hoses are cold. After some time of waiting, I started it but the gauge kept creeping up and no heat, so I kept shutting it down. After about 5x of this, the heat worked and the upper hose got hot and all was right with the world. SO I drove it home. Coolant is new, flushed about a month ago and was running great since then. Thermostat is new. Do I have a blockage somewhere? Water pump bad?