Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: When To Replace Catalytic Converter?
Jan 4, 2015
ill be replacing my muffler here soon, its rusted out blows smoke out all the rust holes, and so on. gonna replace with a nice flo master. Question is, when is it time to replace the catalytic converter? 15 years old and 93000 miles, it still seems like its in good shape, but could it be getting clogged? just from the sounds of the exhaust the past few months, it almost sounds like the truck is somewhat congested. The power from the engine is kinda week, but that's the engine itself. I have no real problems getting up to speed. my hesitation issues from before turned out to be water in the gas tank. Figured since im down there does it make sense just to bite the bullet and throw a new catalytic converter on?
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After installing the lift on my 6.2 F250 I ran into the well known issue where the front drive shaft hits the catalytic converter. The two options I was told that I had was to weld in a slight jog into the exhaust guts to go around the cat or to get a smaller diameter drive shaft... I had the truck down at my local exhaust shop to have a new cat back system installed and I had the exhaust guy throw in his .02 about what to do.
He came up with a super easy/obvious fix. When the left and right exhaust meet up before the collector there is a welded brace that secures both sides together. He cut about .5" out of it and loosened the flanges and shifted the exhaust over. Welded the brace back up... Works perfect.
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The check engine light came on so I took my car in. My mechanic whom I've used for years told me the following: the catalytic converted had started to come off, in the process it pushed the oxygen sensor up against the body of the car and shorted it out. The total damage is that the O2 sensor and the cat has to be replaced. The line-item estimate was $104 for a sensor and $650 for a cat, plus labor. Total: $1000. Now, I'm looking online and seeing cats that work on my car for far less ($200-400 depending). I talked to another mechanic on the phone who verified cats don't have to be $650. My mechanic said they only use top quality parts with warranty, etc. But the other mechanic said that for a car that he wants to get moving again, a cat is a cat and any new part will, of course, come with a warranty. So... what should I do? Is $1000 too much? If I go with the mechanic who says he can get me down to $700, will that be cheap work on my car? It has 108K miles, and I'd like to get at least another few years out of it.
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I've been having issues with my car, i took it to Orielly's & they ran diagnostics, one of the codes said a recommended fix was replace the MAF sensor. Today I took it by an auto shop for them to look at, and the guy said it was my catalytic converter, and I mentioned the MAF sensor, he said fixing the CC would take care of the MAF sensor malfunction. So I have a couple questions...
1. Is what he said correct?
2. If you have a bad CC, does it ever NOT smell bad?
Bc I've never smelled anything other than stinky exhaust, never any rotten egg smell.
It's a 98 Nissan Maxima, 6 cyl. it has 265K miles.
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My 2000 Forester has 96,000 miles on it. A few months ago, the CEL came on. At first it would turn off every couple of days but would eventually pop back on. I first thought it was tied to putting gas in the car, now I think it was just a coincidence.
Over the past two months, I have replaced the catalytic converter with a aftermarket piece (done by a mom and pop muffler shop) and replaced the front o2 sensor three times. The first two times, I used Bosch sensors from an auto parts store and had the code cleared. After about 50 miles the CEL came back on. Just yesterday, I picked my car up from the dealership where they installed a Subaru fron o2. After about 30 miles, the light is back on again. Code is P0133 - heated oxygen sensor, bank 1 sensor 1, circuit slow response.
Now, the dealership is suggesting I need to replace the catalytic converter with a Subaru converter before they can source the issue.
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I have recently picked up a 2005 F350 with the 5.4, which has 212k on it. Has a check engine light on for P0420 and P0430, as well as some kind of a 'ignition coil 'D'', I forgot which code it was as I deleted them at first to see which would come back. After driving it, the P0420 and the P0430 came back, but not the other, yet probably. I'm guessing the misfire due to the ignition coil caused the cats to go bad and the 420/430 codes, unless these codes are coincidental and the cats went due to high mileage.
Either way, I'm pretty sure I will need to replace the cats and was wondering what is the cheapest route. Should I get individual cats and have a shop weld them on? Should I go to Advance Auto parts or Auto Zone and get the whole pipe with the cats attached to them already and then get them installed? I anything will involve welding, I would have to bring it in to a shop. Also, in regards to the ignition coil misfire, what a good way to check which one it is?
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I have a bone stock (other than exhaust) F-250 SD, 6.0 auto, 185k miles. I have a substantial vibration when the torque converter locks - about 50-55 mph. Once the transmission warms up (i.e. 4-5 miles from a cold start) the vibration goes away and the transmission performs flawlessly. Backing out of the throttle and allowing the TC to unlock makes the vibration go away, as does shifting into neutral. There is no noise, just a vibration that will shake the whole truck. Transmission fluid looks good, and showing full. Have had the truck about 4 months, and have not flushed or replaced the filters on transmission.
I've seen a couple of similar threads on vibrations, but not one where the vibration will completely go away. I'm thinking replace the torque converter but wanted to get more information from the experienced experts that know these 5R110s better.
2007 F-250 King Ranch 6.0 PSD, 5R110W, 4" Turbo Back, Otherwise bone stock, 185k.
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When running up through the gears under normal acceleration I can feel almost a double shift in 5th gear. It doesn't occur using tow/haul so I assume it is the TC locking up. Everything else seems fine. Truck has 9k miles, mostly towing. 2016 6.2 ....
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Recently my 2011 f250 sd 6.2s check engine light came on so I took it to my local dealer it was throwing a p0430 code, they said bank 2 cat converter wasn't do it's job so it needed to be replaced. I am concerned that there is an underlying cause of the premature cat fail. I pushed the issue with the service manager and he told me that's all they could do was replace the cat and refused to check anything else on the truck. Is this common? The truck runs and drives fine. I'm just concerned that they are just throwing parts at it to get it out the door.
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I bought this truck (2011 F-350 6.2l) used a month ago with 125000 miles on it. Of course the MIL light came on as soon as the ink dried. The codes read PO420 & PO430 and my local Ford Service said replace the cats. I said what is the cause of the failure, ford said here is a list of possible causes but it's not reading other codes so they don't know what caused the failure.
Well, I went ahead and replaced both catalytic converters, all four O2 sensors, and I replaced all sixteen spark plugs. Guess what, the MIL light is back on not 24 hours later reading PO420, PO430, and now PO620 and PO645. So I just went back to Ford today and all they did was cleared the codes and told me to call if the light comes back on. They said my PCM is up to date but why it's now reading GENCOM code or AC Clutch code.
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I have an issue to where every once in a while my truck will not shift and when it does shift it slams into gear, and my overdrive light flashes and then I'll turn the truck off let it sit and crank it back up and it drives fine and the overdrive light is off. It shifts normal and smooth other than when this happens. Not sure if it is my torque converter or maybe a solenoid or what. My truck is an 07 f250 6.0 with 192,000.
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I recently purchased this truck so I don't have any history on it. It's the V10 motor, automatic, 4 wheel drive, with a crew cab. I took it to Advance Auto to have them read codes and it came back with torque converter solenoid fault and 2 other codes related to that part. I didn't get to see the actual code numbers.
I've talked to 2 transmission shops and they said they could throw a solenoid pack into it, but that it might not even fix it. The truck drives fine, shifts fine, the tranny oil looks and smells fine, so I'm tempted to not worry about it until something else happens.
The truck has 217,000 miles on it...
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I have a 2002 7.3 with the 4r100 173k miles. If your nice to it she drives fine, but if you get on it the torque converter will slip/stall kinda revs up like 300 rpm then slams really hard between 1st and 2nd. Other gears work fine. I've only had it not happen like 10 times since I've owned the truck ..... I don't really beat on it except for towing which I'm starting to do a lot of. Wondering if putting a new stock torque converter in it is worth it.? Not gona blow the bank on a TC unless I'm putting a brand new trans in the truck. Which I don't think it needs in the near future.
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2005 f350srw 6.0 ps. If I stomp it for less than about 5 seconds no issues. Passing a car on a 2 lane or pulling a grade with the 5'r (longer sustained high boost over about 5 seconds) it will pull fine until normal driving recurs. Once normal driving recurs, converter locked 5th gear zero boost on accell. If I mash it to down shift it will stumble stumble stumble black smoke then finally boost fine. Let off same no boost issue. It seems to "reset" after about 4 miles/ 4 minutes. Sct canned tunes/ custom tunes don't make a diff. My dd is idp unlimited tow and 40 ficm tune. I cleaned ebp tube and sensor no change. Haven't tested sensor. I'm wondering if it's low fuel pressure related. Fixing to sell truck and want to fix this. Been going on for a year or so. Hasn't always been this way.
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Switch out a 5.4 in a F-250 4X4 4 my neighbor now I have a noise like fan blades hitting coming from the torque converter it goes and comes and hits good in reverse...
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Will it be easier for me to drop the tank or to take off the bed of the truck does a 1990 F350 7.5 liter dual tank gas
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Rear-most connection before pumpkin, need to replace the U-Joint. I got the four bolts out at the flange but the shaft won't drop. I beat on the connection a bit, not enough to hurt though. What am I missing? How the heck do I get this apart and drop the shaft to replace the U-Joint???
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Odd thing happened. All of a sudden the factory emblem on my 2008 tailgate totally lost all of its blue and is now pure chrome. Happened just like that.
Anyway, is it screwed on and do I need to pull the panel on the tailgate to remove it? Here's the tailgate on my truck for reference.
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I have a 2003 F250 5.4L crew cab with the 156"wb. She has just developed a hole in the stock muffler so it will need to be replaced.
I want something that is an easy-fit, has better flow, and maybe better sounding.
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I'd like to replace the back bench seats with something that has a headrest. Can I swap out the benchseat from a 2004 model and place it in my 2003 model?
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Have a 2008 F-350 crew cab 4x4 lariat with 20" wheels on it. Tire size is very limited/expensive. Can I replace the 20" wheels with 18" or 17"? I was told it depends on the size of the brakes. How do I check that, short of buying "test" wheels? I am old school and would rather have more tire and less rim, than the other way around.
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