Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: When Taking Off Truck Will Not Shift Into OD Unless Cycle The Button On Shifter
Apr 12, 2016
I am having a bit of an issue with my new to me 2002 F350 V10 Ford, I have noticed a few times in the when taking off (first time after being parked)the truck will not shift into over drive unless I cycle the button on the shifter, after that the OD seems to work fine for the rest of the trip. Second thing I noticed is the "OD" light on the end of the shifter will come on at times (indicating the OD is off) even when the truck is in over drive, wiggling the shifter makes the light go out and the truck will not change gears. Would a new gear shifter fix this as it is a bit sloppy?
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The problem with my truck is not that its regen'ing too often, the problem is that its STUCK in regen cycle. For the past 4-5 days my truck has been going into regen about 1-2 min after i start driving it, every single time i start her up. If i start my truck in the morning and let it warm up for a few min, i come out and my truck is idling higher then normal and has an increased exhaust smell, but when i aply the brake the idle goes back to normal. Then i start driving up the street and BAM "cleaning exhaust filter" message comes up and the and immediately the sound of the exhaust and induction changes and it sounds like sputtering/knocking.
Sometimes the the engine will flutter in decel or shutdown. HORRIBLE gas mileage, Reduced engine response and power, and white smoke is cooler temps. Basically all of the normal signs of a regen cycle, am i wrong? Im pretty sure its either a dpf sensor or possibly something wrong with the DPF? I haven't had one problem with my 2010 besides an egr valve and she has 167k miles and is completely stock and im very happy with my truck! 2010 6.4L
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My 05 superduty is in the shop because it won't shift in or out of 4Hi. Ford garage says I need a new transfer case shift motor, and 4wheel drive module. They said the shift motor was full of oil. I am not really up to speed on how the shift motor works, other than it bolts externally to the transfer case, that's why it confuses me about the shift motor being saturated with oil. My truck has never leaked even a drop of any type oil, ever.
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I have roughly 104k miles. The weather is trying to get colder. Lows of 45 highs of 80 right now. Last week I was accelerating on to the highway and the truck seemed to have trouble shifting. I hit the accelerator and it did not shift. It would continue to increase in speed but very slowly and would even tend to kind of sputter a little. My engine light came on and has gone off and on several times since then. This has occurred several more times and is always when I hit the highway.
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I've got a 2000 F350 PSD XLT. When I turn on the AC it runs and cools fine. However, the first time the clutch cycles off or you select another position then back to an AC position the clutch will not reengage. The high and low pressure check good. How to trouble shoot this.
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Ok so I went mudding this past week, and I put my 997 7.3 truck in 4x4 had fun then took it out of 4 wheel now it won't shift past 2nd gear top speed 35 mph.... It still has all the power revs up Rpms fine but it won't go faster then that.
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What the expected life cycle is for the fold in/out feature of the power mirrors? I garage my truck and need to fold mirrors when backing in and then unfold once out of the garage--looking at 2 in/out cycles per trip from the house. How long until the motor gasps and dies?
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2005 F350 Lariat ..... I cant get my AC to work in my truck.
AC will not cycle on, Originally thought the system was low because I jumped the pressure switch and it cycled fine (But did not cool inside the vehicle). Checked the pressure and it was in the 40lb range on the low side. My blower will only blow on high but I assumed it was a defective fan speed control.. Possibly an issue with the climate control?
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What will make a loud blower sound cycle on and off constantly when towing if i turn the ac off it stops....
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So sometimes the 4x4 takes awhile to engage. Both hubs are free turning (manual to auto). Drivers side only holds a few psi of vacuum. Passengers side 20ish. All seals have been replaced. Was tested right at the nipple on drivers side front. Switching hubs from side to side didn't change anything. 2 mechanics are unsure what to do aside from take a chance at replacing the wheel bearing. It does eventually go into 4x4 but takes awhile for 4x4 to engage and light on dash to come on.
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just bought a 01 f350 v10, 40,000 miles, plowing beast, anyways when taking off truck seems sluggish, give it more gas as its fine. At idle there appears to be a skip. There are no check engine lights on, could it be the coil pack or even maybe fuel problem? Have done plenty to this beast to get it close to perfect and this motor issue is it.
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Just noticed today, while taking slight right turns 20-40MPH, I get a really loud and angry chirping sounds? Its only right turns...It sounds like a forest of angry crickets.
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99 F250 7.3 everyday worker, just recently my tranny slipped as I was taking off from a light, I thought hmm that's odd! Pulled away from the next light , it did not slip! Later in the day did it again, so I ran by the transmission shop to have a service done, to my surprise I was told service would not work, and a rebuild was going to be 3200-4k. truck has been used lightly for the last week or so, slips sometimes and not others. I still believe I need to have it serviced? can I do this myself ( I haven't a clue)....
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So on my way to work this morning taking off from a light on a smooth blacktop my message center lit up with "tire pressure sensor fault". is there any way to tell which sensor it is without a scan tool?
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Need better understanding of the wiring and turn signal selector than I do in my 07 6.0 HD. At first the issue started with the right front and right mirror blinking fast indicating a burnt out rear right turn signal. However after a few seconds the right rear will start working and the speed would be normal. I noticed it worse on very wet days making me think the rear tail light was letting in water and messing with the bulb. But it turns out it does it on nice days too.
These days it has evolved into the turn signal sometimes taking a few seconds before any of the right side actually starts to flash, also sometimes the indicator does not automatically deactivate after a right turn.
Giving the bottom of the steering column a calibrated tap usually always fixes the issue until the next turn.
Assuming its a bad turn signal selector switch Part number YL3T-13K359-ABJAEA but not knowing the wiring diagram I dont see how this bad switch would intermittently stop controlling the right rear turn signal. I would guess that it would tell the flasher left or right, not which lefts and which rights.
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I've put about 500 miles on my new to me 06 F250 4x4, CC, SB, V-10. One thing that is slightly annoying is the shifter position in R, L, 1 and 2. Shifter is against my knee in those positions. Re bent the shifter to place the more to the right? I have buckets with a console so I don't need to worry about a center passenger's legs. I have plenty of benders and metal working tools at my disposal, just asking for some guidance.
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Today I put a new shifter tube in a 02 f450. Everything works well, but the key won't come out and the steering wheel won't lock. Was told there is a button to push by the turn signal side but don't see any. Looked around top and bottom of column and didn't see anything out of place. Also found a black wire with a pink strip not connected to anything. Touched the wire to the column and key dinger sounded. Where should this wire be connected?
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I've been having an ongoing problem with the gear shifter jammed in park after startup. I changed the brake switch and installed a new ignition switch to try fix the problem. Later, I noticed the battery indicator gauge was flat lined even though the truck was running. Out of sheer frustration, I banged the bottom of the steering wheel and suddenly the battery indicator jumped to life and the truck went into gear again.
I took off the panel beneath the steering wheel off to look for any obvious loose wires but found none. This sounds strange but at first, the problem occurred more in the mornings when the weather was cold outside. No, it seems that the battery indicator will flat line while I'm driving in all weather conditions but jumps back up when I tap the steering wheel. I've included a video on youtube to illustrate the problem.
Youtube Video .....
2001 F250 Lariat Superduty 7.3Lm
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1999 F-350 . My shifter lever is extremely loose, it will not go into park at all. I tightened the two torx bolts, adjusted the needle but its still bad. Im thinking the cable is loose, I saw that there is a small rod attached to the end. Is there a way to tighten it or do I need a new cable assy.?
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2015 F-250 4X4 CC gas truck. 6R140 Transmission..
My truck has 6500 miles on it and since day one when I put my shifter in (D) there is a 3-4 sec delay in the transmission to engage every morning when I start out, rest of the time there is no delay even when the truck sits all day at work (about 9 hours). I have read in 2011 (?) that the transmission was loosening it's prime and would cause this problem, so how it's got me thinking.
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Today I put a new shifter tube in a 02 f450. Everything works well, but the key won't come out and the steering wheel won't lock. Was told there is a button to push by the turn signal side but don't see any. Looked around top and bottom of column and didn't see anything out of place. Also found a black wire with a pink strip not connected to anything. Touched the wire to the column and key dinger sounded. Where should this wire be connected?
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