Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: When Connecting To Sync - Metadata Missing Message?
Aug 27, 2013
When I go on longer trips I connect my iphone 4s via the sync usb so that it can recharge; I still stream audio via bluetooth but it reads all the music from the phone and tells me some of my tracks are missing artist, genre, album interrupting my music after 1-2 minutes of scanning my songs.
One solution would be to find and fix the songs with missing info but I have a lot and don't want to go there. Another solution would be to get a faster 1amp charger from 12v socket instead of the usb 500mA. I may go there eventually but I already have the usb cable.
Any way to tell sync to just leave it be and don't tell me each time?
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I was just looking to hook up my 2nd usb on my new 2016 SD, but when i looked on the box there is only one usb on the board. My 2014 had 2 usb ports. Do i need to upgrade module or can i somehow split single usb into 2?
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USB Port and card were working fine now it says usb empty, tryed disconnecting the battery for 10 minutes and a different card, still nothing, and the port wont charge anything either. The truck is a 2012 .....
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Where is the SYNC module in an '11 F250?
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Did the blue spring upgrade today. The driver side battery was disconnected for 2 hours. After finishing the upgrade I reconnected the battery. When I touched the positive cable to the battery I heard a fuse blow. Now I have no lights, chimes, instruments, gauges, NOTHING, everything is dead. Cannot find any fuse blown. Is there a master fuse?
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So when I tell the truck to "play bluetooth audio" it tells me to use the screen, and then disconnects the phone from the truck completely. This a newer development, and it happens more often than not, and I can't figure out why sometimes it does this, and sometimes it doesn't. Every other interface between the phone and the truck works like it should.
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Trying to perform master reset on sync because, from the title, phone button inoperative, No Aux In, and attempting to connect the ipod, you get "connection error see dealer".
The Owner's manual indicates Fuse 40 protects Sync, GPS and Sirius, so I figure that is the one. When you pull 40 you still have gps and Sirius, so I figure Sync must still have power also. So, what fuse powers the sync module?
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I recently got a 2015 f450 XL service truck and was wondering if the factory sync system with steering wheel controls could be added or would I be better off swapping in an aftermarket radio? And the remote start, fog light and brake controller kits are the same from the pickups to the chassis cabs correct? Last question is that I found the truck has global window open but doesnt remotely close is that correct?
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Have a 2000 F-250 V-10 4x4 with 335,000 miles on the clock. Has started hesitating at 40-45. You can't really notice it at idle. Drove it around at lower speeds and just a miss here and there. Take it up to 40-45 and it's quite bad. Hasn't thrown any codes. Hooked it up to the scanner to get no additional info. My gut says coil packs but am kinda confused that I haven't gotten a misfire code yet. What to check?
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My 99 f450 7.3 runs bad on first start of day. I checked the codes 3 codes p0475, p0470 and p1247. Now here is what I tried I plugged it in over night and it will start and run as should the next morning with out side temp 47. Drove the truck late yesterday evening didn't plug up tried it this morning with a outside temp of 47 truck starts but missing and like of power. My problem seems to be temp related. Will low boost pressure cause this problem what do I need to do?
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Ok AC wasn't working took it to a mechanic told me the the compressor was missing a clutch he recommended i put a new compressor. Is it possible just to put a new clutch in it and if so do i have to remove the compressor to put the clutch on it.
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One day after my mechanic replaced the heater core my truck started to misfire after the motor warms up and is under load. No codes and nothing pops up when hooked up to o a scanner. It's been cold in the morning and when I start it up it runs like a top. But after it warms up it start to miss a little, then it gradually gets worse especially when under a load at higher speeds. I thought it was a vacuum hose or something got left unplugged.
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I went to replace my driver's hub bearing last night. Found pieces missing from the locking hub (manual). I ordered them last night it's the snap ring and washers but will not be here till next Monday. Can I run the new bearing with out hurting it. It has already ruined the seals on that side I just don't have the time to take it all the way down. So if I install the bearing and don't put all the guts in the locking hub (I know the locking hub won't work) Dont need 4x4 right now but need to be able to drive it some. Just don't want to mess up the 250 dollar bearing I just got.
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2003 6.0 is acting crazy again. Has new ICP, IPR, oil discharge tube, and hpop. It cranks right up but one time you crank it and all the gauges work correctly, especially the fuel gauge. The engine will idle perfect but when you accelerate it has a dead miss. May crank like that 2 to 4 times. Then you crank it and it runs like crap, and the gauges won't work, the fuel gauge goes past E and the light comes on. As long as that happens it runs terrible, but when the gauges are working it idles great but has a miss under acceleration! It was running fine, then just went nuts!
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Just bought a nice little project 1999 4X4. 100k miles and overall decent condition.
One of the first things to tackle is the driver's front hub has no manual 4x4 locking mechanism like on the passenger side. Is this a tough job?
Attached is the picture of the hub & missing lock setup. (Can't upload...).
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I have a 03 F250SD with ~145,000 miles on the 5.4L. Just recently I have been having what seems to be a miss, or possibly a dead cylinder. I thought it might be a dirty MAF, but I cleaned it and have the same problem. The miss is more noticeable at the higher RPMs. I am checking the plugs today. So any solution? I refuse to take her to the shop and having another man up in her manifold.
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A couple days ago my truck started stumbling and missing . And is lacking power . It starts fine and seems to run ok above 3000 rpm . But at idle and off it is stumbling pretty bad . And at highway speeds it stumbles once it goes into overdrive . I changed the plugs which where white ( I think lean ) then I bought a new coil pack and moved it through all ten positions ( I just replaced them all about a year ago .) then replaced the tps and the iac today also cleaned the maf and recharged my filter . Still no different . It hasn't been an on going thing . I was driving then stopped for a bit then about 1 hour later went to leave and this is where I'm at .
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I have a miss at high rpms.. I pulled this engine, manual trans, and 4x4 axle and put them in my F350 Majestic motorhome. 156,000 miles on the engine. Slightly dusted engine with good compression 375-400 (cranking and corrected for altitude). Has a little bit of a long start.
No smoke on start up unless 10 degrees or colder
No smoke when pulling either.
Glowplugs ...Good
GPR... Good
Checked resistance from IDM to injectors ...Good
History of some ether for starting before I got my hands on it. I have AE with the ford enhancement. But I am new to working on a powerstroke and new to AE.
ICP ...new
CPS...new
Oil ....new
EBP...new
Installed a pressure gauge to the drivers side upper port on my fuel bowl:
60 psi at idle
55 psi at WOT 2500-3000 rpms under a load
HPOP stabilized pressure is 2750 @ 40% duty cycle
Truck still misses (semi-intermittently) at higher rpm with a load.
Rechecked codes KOEO: None present
I visually inspected valve movement while running (idle). Did the buzz test when cold.... All injectors sounded the same when tested individually.
Did a cct when not completely warm:
P0266
p0272
Repeated the test at normal operating temperature:
P0266
Torque values on rocker arms bolts and injector holds are good. Fuel quality isn't an issue since this problem has remained for 5 tanks of fuel. What I should do next?
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This is an update on an older post I took the truck to a repair shop and had it checked. They said 5 of the 8 glow plugs were not working and #3 injector was bad.. They replaced all glow plugs and the #3 injector I brought the truck home and parked it about a 20 mile drive home running fine when I got home. When I started it the next afternoon it was missing just as bad as before the work was done. After it gets warm runs ok best I can tell. What it could be? If the orings on the injectors are bad would it run ok when it warms up? Going to take it back to shop but not sure they know whats wrong by the way the mechanic talked. What to do next they have checked the wiring or at least said he did. It does ok when the oil warms up new hpop and I have checked the oil level and it was ok the hpop and eng. What else to do?
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I have a 2004 F-250 with a 6.0 and a 6-speed with 140,000 miles. It has been studded, and has upgraded injectors. ( Not sure on the size, they bored them at at the diesel shop that studded my heads.) Also have an EGR delete, with the EGR turned off on the SCT as well. I also have a SCT Livewire set on the 65HP tow tune.
Truck has always ran great in the year and a half I have had it. I changed the oil three days ago, and now I am getting a miss at idle. The trucks cranks right up and drives normally. Once it is at operating temperature, when I stop at a light it has a very noticeable miss. There is no surging, or change in RPM's at all. Just seems like it is cutting out every few seconds. This is also somewhat intermittent. FICM shows 49 volts always, even when this is occurring.
Also, this may be unrelated, my oil temperature seems higher since the oil change. Was around 192 water/197 oil while cruising 70 on the interstate. Now, its' more like 192/202. I've always ran Motorcraft 15w-40, and that is what I used for this oil change as well.
I see some people have a similar problem, but all the posts I've read involved fluctuating RPM's or surging, or both. Other than this, the truck cranks and runs just like normal.
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I just traded in my trusty, never had a single issue 2008 Ford F150 with 53k miles for a 2008 Ford F350 with 112k miles. I figured the extra miles were okay, because it is a diesel. I purchased the truck to pull a 31’ 12k lbs when loaded toyhauler, and I have a 14K weight distribution hitch.
Just in case this makes a difference, here is some background information. I have a 2008 Ford F350 XLT 6.4L CrewCab Long Bed. Before purchasing it, I had Ford do a performance and safety inspection. Everything came back clear, so I bought it. The day after purchasing it, I changed all the fluids for peace of mind, ie. rear diff, transfer case, transmission, motor oil & filter, fuel filter, and radiator fluid.
Here is the problem. Occasionally, the 4x4 Low light will start blinking/flashing. Sometimes it will only flash once or twice and go off, other times it will flash for 15-20 seconds and then go off. There is no pattern to when it happens other than it seems to do it mostly when slowing down or breaking. It is very sporadic. I don’t drive very far for work, so I can go an entire week without seeing the light come on, but if I hit the highway for 30-45 minutes, the light will eventually turn on.
When it flashes, occasionally, I get an RPM increase…almost like it’s trying to engage natural or shift into 4x4 low at highway speeds…which causes me concerns. I took it to Ford and after 50 miles of driving it around, they could not get the 4x4 low light to come on. They said they pulled codes but there were none to pull. They reflashed the PCM and charged me $99 to not fix my problem.
I can shift into 4x4 high and 4x4 low (with the window rolled down, I can hear the shifting from 2wd to 4wd high and then to 4wd low and back to 2wd), so I don’t think it is a blown fuse or the control module. I removed and cleaned the wire connectors to the shift motor on the transfer case, and that didn’t fix it. I was thinking about replacing the rear diff abs speed sensor in hopes that will fix it. I think that maybe it’s a wiring issue, which I wouldn’t even know where to start.
I was getting 14 mpg before the reflash and after, I am now getting 8 mpg. Does this seem right? Or is there a learning period after a reflash before my mpg gets back to normal.
Also, the automatic 4x4 drive doesn't work. I don't think its holding a vaccum. I don't think it is related to the 4x4 low light coming on when I am doing normal driving. I can use the lockers to get 4x4 to work correctly. Infact, Ford is the one that told me the auto doesn't work.
Edit: I also noticed that if I flip ON any of the upfitter switches (ie AUX 1, AUX 2, AUX 3, AUX 4) the 4x4 low light will flash constantly until turned off. I currently don't use any of the switches for anything.
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