Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: When Start The Truck In Garage / Cannot Seem To Get Into Reverse Right Away
Nov 10, 2015
For the past month or so, probably about a half dozen times now, I will start the truck in the garage but I can't seem to get it into reverse right away. It may very well be a timing thing with me depressing the brake pedal, but I'm not so sure. I've been backing the truck out of the garage for five years and I've never had a timing issue, and I'm definitely noticing it now.
Is/was there an issue with the brake pedal as it related to putting the vehicle in gear? Could it be something going on with the brake pedal for that function? It is very sporadic, maybe once or twice a week it happens (I don't take it out that much). Trying to gather info before hitting up my dealer.
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When I put the truck into reverse, sometimes the rear park assist sensors go off for no reason, sometimes they work correctly. Is there a way to narrow down which sensor it might be, or just replace the lot?
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Have 2001 F-250 7.3 PSD, automatic, ESOF (had to replace the original hubs with Warns)have kept up the maintenance,oil, grease, ATF fluid & filter, truck has been virtually trouble free. About 2 weeks ago I decided to go across an area of the lawn, as I was going (in 2 wheel drive)I felt the tires spin a little so I stopped got out and locked the hubs, got back in truck turned t-case to 4 high. had to rock the truck out of a damp area but nothing really.
So I got back to where I came in at (in reverse about 100') stopped put it back in 2 wheel drive, tried to go forward, very difficult, sluggish, got back in driveway had to back the truck in, will not go forward at all now. Checked all fuses, rapped the the t-case motor, no codes. So I thought I'd move the ruck, have a winch that will pull it out by the barn, I could not even move the truck forward by pulling it with a winch. As I said have never had any problems with truck. Transmission fluid is good, clean no burnt smell.
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I was driving my sons 99 f250, 7.3, today, pulled into a friends driveway, put the truck into park, turned it off and got out. 5 minutes later out of nowhere the truck jumped out of park into reverse like someone was in it stomping on the gas then the breaks then the gas, then the breaks. This truck took off in reverse with such force if there was someone behind it they would have been seriously hurt. I was parked on completely flat ground. While this was happening it sounded like it was trying to start and clicking very loud. It is an automatic.
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I have a question about when my truck is in 4 wheel drive. I've read a lot of posts but couldn't find specific answers to these questions: When I take a left turn theres quite a bit of resistance and a little hopping. Also when turning in reverse its almost like the truck is getting hung up and a with resistance, something doesn't seem right. Could any of this be if only one hub is engaging? Also, when i just manually lock the hubs, I only noticed that the passenger side axle spins when I manually turn the front drive shaft.
Also this is the first time I've used the 4 wheel drive. And I recently replaced front axle u joints, as well as a double cardan joint rebuild, only issue w/ that is that is i forgot to mark the orientation where the front driveshaft bolts onto the the transfer case...so it's either on the right way or a 180 from how it was before, because I could see the original pattern.
2000 4x4 7.3 long bed ext cab, 159k
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Well I just bought a 2011F250 6.7 on Friday. The truck has 42000 miles when I picked it up and now has almost 42800 4 days later. I love the truck so far. But anyways its an early build so is there anything I need to look out for? I noticed today I pulled into a parking spot and went to back up and as soon as I put it in reverse the truck shook pretty bad. It did it a few times as I sat there and went from drive to reverse. Is this something that is normal?
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Ok I am getting a (6R140) transmission behaviour every morning drive or later in the day after the transmission cools down. I am experiencing a 2-3 second delay of engagement when putting truck in Reverse. This happens EVERY time whether transmission is cold or warmed up. I am also having very hard/harsh shift fares going into 3rd gear and 5th gear with the 3rd gear being the worse of the two. Also experiencing these hard/harsh shift when downshifting as well.
I took the truck to my local dealer and I let it sit over night in their lot so they could experience it at its worst after sitting all night. They definitely recognized the issue. But since it wasn't throwing and codes. I find this an unacceptable answer.
I brought to their attention that this issue is well documented online and a lot are having success with performing TSB 11-7-10 (replacing solenoids) They looked it up and said my truck doesn't apply to TSB because of the build date. My window sticker and VIN # implies the truck was built 10-11-2010. Which from my understanding, does fall under the required TSB. None the less, I insisted that I know I'm out of warranty and I will just pay to have this TSB performed. They refused.
What should I do? I know everyday I run my truck with this issue it is decreasing the reliability of this transmission and it will most likely end with a full transmission replacement.
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Last night my truck wouldnt start. Drove fine all day, started up bunch of different times. Went to go home at night. No crank, everything else works, hear the fuel pump prime windows radio everything. smacked the starter a few times but no change. Checked the fuses and relays, all appear good. So im guessing the starter or the starter solenoid, but I cant find one on the truck just something that looks like it could be it attached to the starter.
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So I just bought my first car, a 2003 F250 Super Duty with a 5.4 V8 gas engine with 150,000 miles that I will be using to tow my horse trailer. It has some things I need to fix. The main issue is that it wont start.
When I first went to look at it I tried jumping it, as the battery was dead and I still couldn't start it, though it was turning over. The previous owner then tried jumping it the next day, got it started and met me half way where I bought the truck. Turned it off where we met and it started right up again and I drove it home. It sat in my driveway overnight and then wouldn't start the next day, though it is turning over like before.
The battery is only a month old. There is another sensor issue where they had to disconnect the dash or the truck would randomly stop running. I believe it's the speed sensor? I received the repair reports from the dealer saying "code B1352 in memory for ignition key fault" and they removed an aftermarket remote start. "four U1027 and other U codes found, replaced crankshaft sensor".
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I have a 6.0L diesel that is not a daily driver so it sits for days and even weeks at a time. When I go to start it the batteries will be run down to the point that sometimes the truck will not start and I will need to charge the batteries. I was thinking about installing a battery tender and leaving it plugged in so the batteries will stay charged. I'm looking at the tender in the link.
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My truck keeps blowing fuse 28 in the inside fuse box. This fuse belongs to the ignition relay, and only blows when I go to start the truck. It is intermittent
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Truck was running fine up until now. After the WTS light goes out, I crank it and.... nothing. It doesn't even try. It's not a battery problem. I have 12.6 V from each battery before and after cranking. The lights are bright, the horn works, the dash lights are strong and bright all both before and after cranking. It just doesn't want to engage the starter. I tried my backup key as well, thinking it might be a problem with the PATS. No dice. Where to start looking?
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I have a 2000 f350 xlt and it has been very good until now. I can be driving normal and stop and park, when I get in and try and start it , it acts like the neutral safety switch is not working. the key turns and all my dash lights work, radio works, everything but the starter. I have to put it into neutral to get it to start. then after I stop again, it works fine. I don't get the problem all the time and I can't find a neutral safety switch.
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I have a 2012 Ford F350 I've been looking to install a compressor on. I've poked a hole in the gasket that runs wires through the firewall and cut the tips off of a couple of the accessory wires. Went to go get some more parts and now the truck won't start! The lights and radio turn on when the car is turned on but the starter doesn't even click when I try to start it. What should I look at?
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i have a 01 Ford F-350 7.3L quite and won't start I have replaced the ipr valve and sensor and the crank sensor and the truck still won't start...
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I have a 2006PSD 6.0. At about 60-70mph my truck will start to buck/jitter if i give about 5-10 percent throttle. It only happens at these speeds and i tried all sorts of fixes so far. Also there are no codes. Truck starts and idles great. At more than 10 percent throttle at 60mph, it acts normal. My current fix is just drive normally at 80mph. I also see talks about the possibility of the Turbo vanes being stuck, but wouldn't that happen at other speeds also?
Oil Change,
Fuel filter change
EOT and ECT within 8 degrees
FICM Change with Atlas 40
EGR Replacement (Unplugging and driving didnt change it.)
Replaced IPR valve
Turbo cleaned at 90k (Currently 140k)
Visual check of exhaust system and up pipes and no leak
Current mods
Fabtech 6" Lift
FICM Repair.com with Atlas 40
Blue Spring
Coolant Filter
Edge CTS
4wd ESOF hose kit
SS Brake Lines
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So I was trying to put led turn signals in my truck then I decided not to because it was getting too dark. Earlier today started without complaints. Then after I was done with the headlights I tried to start my truck, nothing besides rapid clicking. First thought was battery was dead from me leaving the dome light on the entire time while working on it and also having the headlights on a good portion, so I decide I'll jump it. Get it all hooked up and and start the donor truck then wait 2 mins and try to start my truck still nothing but rapid clicks. I got the voltage meter out to check the battery and had 11.97 volts (that's not great but either way it wouldn't start when I tried to jump it). Put it on a charger? Bad starter? Solenoid?
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I just bought a 2000 F250 SD, 4x4, 5.4, Quad Cab. I drove it off the lot, stopped to put air in the tires, jumped back in and it wouldn't crank. All of the dash lights worked fine. Tried jumping at the starter solenoid and got nothing. Got under the truck and jumped it off the starter, vroom, fired right up. Replaced the starter solenoid and had no issues for about 2 hours. Then it did it again. This time it wouldn't start at all. I towed it back to the dealer and they had it for 3 weeks.
Then yesterday I called and they said it was done. Picked it up, drove to the barber shop, got my hair cut, came back out and it did the same thing AGAIN. After jacking around with the shifter and turning the wheel back and forth 100 times it started. The key is kind of hard to turn sometimes in the ignition, so I'm thinking that the ignition cylinder needs to be lubed real good, but that shouldn't stop it from cranking the motor over, right? I was going to swap out the ignition switch, but I don't know if that will do any good either.
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I have a 2008 f250 with 5.4v8. The truck starts intermittently. Put key in turn if no dash lights it doesn't even crank or hear a click. If u put key in and turn and dash lights up to starts and runs. U can watch the different lights (instrument cluster) light up independently like a xmas tree. When truck doesn't start if u disconnect battery when touching power wire to battery. Post truck lights will flick on/off if u tap cables to battery and leave on. Lights flicker on/off and then stay off. (Don't know why shouldn't flicker at all) after disconnecting and reconnecting battery truck will or will not start still depends on if dash lights come on before cranking.i replaced battery, starter, alternator, all the ground cable connections and wire cleaned. I haven't replaced the power side but are clean.
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It seems like recently almost every time I start my truck it beeps 5 beeps 5 times. so it beeps 25 times. what could this be and how do i get rid of it. I wear my seatbelt so it is not that. There has to be a relay or something to stop the dam thing from doing it.
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Last night was changing front driver's side shock on my 2011 F250 PSD. Right front wheel still on ground and needed to turn wheel to right to better access shock mount. Started truck and turned the wheel all the way to the right and took the key out thinking the wheel would lock and I could change the shock easier. But the wheel didn't lock and actually spun itself almost a full turn after I took the key out...I'm assuming because the right wheel was still on the ground providing resistance, but I think the wheel lock may have broken.
Finished the shock and went to start, but nothing. Everything is clicking and buzzing like normal but wouldn't turn over. Checked all fuses that seemed pertinent but none were bad. Wasn't able to check any relays. Gave up and was going to have it towed.
Son and I had to straighten the wheel so I could roll in down the driveway and the dang thing started after the wheel was straight! Thought it was a fluke and parked it. This morning did the same thing so I cranked the wheel to the right and it started again. Now at work and thought I better check again and I can't get it to start for anything. The steering wheel lock seems to be busted and now I'm thinking it could be something in the steering column, but this is a little above my pay grade.
Need to get home tonight and was hoping my description would be enough to make a for sure diagnosis. Otherwise its getting towed to the shop and I'd rather fix it myself if i can.
So went back out and tried starting in neutral again, but this time fiddled with the shifter while turning the key...nothing again. Ran it up into park and tried it again and it started! Last night and this morning I didn't mess at all with the shifter, just manually turned the wheel with the engine off. This is the first time moving the shifter worked and I didn't turn the wheel at all this last time.
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