OK I am pretty sure my warn locking hub is shot. I put it in the lock position and I can still turn my u joint by hand. I got the cap off and the otter metal ring out. There was No inner snap ring to take out. So now it should Just come out right?
View 5 RepliesI have a 01 f250 v10 4x4 ... My stock hubs squeak non stop when they are engaged. I want to get a set of warns.
I am going down to napa tomorrow, looking for a detailed link, or instructions of how to install these things? i have searched but just keep coming up with people raving about how great warn hubs are!
Do I need any special tools, do I need to grease the new ones before installing?
The left Warn Premium hub has started rotating out of the Free setting, this seems to happen at or near highway speeds. A tell tale sound is then produced, I assume from the splines contacting. It does not rotate all the way to lock. There seems to be less resistance on this side now than the other when locking. Hubs have been installed for 3.5 years, problem started a few days ago, haven't been locked in a couple months.
We've had torrential rains for the past week with no end in sight due to the tropical storm bearing down on us so I figured I'd ask here first before pulling the hub in the rain (no garage).
I have an 03 F250 5.4L
Driving down the highway today, I notice my truck was jerking forward a little, hard to notice almost felt like I was hitting very small pot holes. I revved up a little to see if I could notice any noises and I got a loud pop. after the pop, got a noise like an exhaust leak so I pulled off to the side of the highway and popped the hood (engine still running). Noticed the noise coming from the passenger side most forward spark plug. Then noticed the part that the coil attaches too had broke off from its bracket and was unseated, shut off the engine and pulled it out to find the coil cover had melted to the coil.
The spark plug inside was moving freely so I took it out thinking it stripped from the header. Come to find that the plug had actually separated from its threading completely so just the core part of the plug had shot out from the cylinder, the threading and socket attachment portion still fully attached. I installed a new spark plug and new coil harness and coil. Seems to be running as good as new now. Is there more to this than a simple blown plug that I need to worry about?
My truck has been sitting for 3 years and I want to bring it back from retirement. I changed oil, checked fluids, replaced the starter, starter solenoid/relay and tossed in a 2 yr old charged battery (800CA). She would not turn over and I jumped with another vehicle. She turned right over and with an insane dust cloud! I went to disconnect jumped cables and it died. I assume the alternator is shot.
Jumped again to bring up to temp so I could check tranny fluid. It was running for about 5 minutes and just quit. Nothing mechanically to my knowledge caused this. It quit peacefully. I went to fire it back up and all I get is a click at relay on inner fender. The new one. Even while jumping..... What I should test/diagnose next.
I have a 2008 6.4 Diesel 4x4, and the TC is not locking. The ABS sensors were changed prior to me purchasing the truck as well as the dash and reflashed. I have recently changed the following within the last two weeks:
Internal harness
External harness
TCC solenoid
Tranny filter
I get no codes, but the ABS light is on, and the speedo doesn't work. I know on OBS trucks, the clock spring could affect it, but I am not sure about this newer ones.
Driving home from work yesterday, dry roads, truck unloaded, running around 50mph, had a dog almost run out in front of me. I hit the brakes hard and came to a stop. But, I noticed that my brakes did not lock up the tires. This was a bit of a surprise. My former 2003 Cummins would easily lock them up. Is my truck an anomaly? Can lock up your tires during a hard/panic stop?
View 14 RepliesI have a piece of a warn locking hub that is stuck in the wheel hub. It is stuck in a Ford F-350 super duty SRW 6.8 V10 with a Dana 50 8 lug front axle. Everything seems stock, but we bought this beast late in its life. I have removed the locking hub cap, the inner locking gear, and the metal retaining ring that holds the outer gear in place. The other side just falls apart as it should at this point.
I have tried building a custom puller utilizing the 6 hex cap screws (that attach the locking hub cap) to pull in on two 1/8" thick c channels held off with a 1/2" bolt pushing in the middle of the c channels on the axle. In one case, I sheared off the bolt, and bent the c channels. I tried it again and that time broke several of the hex cap screws off.
I have ran through penetrating oil, wd-40, propane (for a torch) and carb and brake cleaner as I tried heating up the hub while applying penetrating oil and letting things sit, then spraying out rust and such with carb or brake cleaner to loosen things up, then repeating the process over and over again. I have done this process several times. It worked on the center where the axle goes through the inner gear, so now the inner gear is now loose from the axle. But the outside is still suck like no other.
Lightly hitting on it with a 3lb sledge to crack something lose has done nothing, and left me struggling not to beat it much harder with a bigger hammer with a longer handle.
As a note, it took weeks to get the center locking gear to fall out after doing the oil, heat, and spray cleaner process, then driving with it locked in, and it took two attempts and hours to get the cap off from stuck hex cap screws, several which I had to drill out in the end after even an impact screw driver would not work. The U-Joint is bad, and I can't lock in the 4WD which is problematic at the dump and on job sites when it is muddy especially when we are towing a maxed out 5k single axle trailer that wants to dig in to the mud too.
I went to replace my driver's hub bearing last night. Found pieces missing from the locking hub (manual). I ordered them last night it's the snap ring and washers but will not be here till next Monday. Can I run the new bearing with out hurting it. It has already ruined the seals on that side I just don't have the time to take it all the way down. So if I install the bearing and don't put all the guts in the locking hub (I know the locking hub won't work) Dont need 4x4 right now but need to be able to drive it some. Just don't want to mess up the 250 dollar bearing I just got.
View 2 RepliesBack in March while still plowing, my auto locking hubs wouldn't stay engaged. After talking to the local Ford service shop they told me that it was moisture in the vaccum lines and that it had frozen. They told me to manually lock the hubs and bring it in to be repaired when I had time. I made a appointment in the middle of May and finally got it in last week. Now the hubs are seized in the locked position and they will not warranty the work or parts because they say it was caused by the salt from our roads. Does this sound right?
View 5 RepliesI have a 1999 f250 super duty, that was wrecked a few months ago. I have put the truck back together with the mechanic. The front drivers side was wrecked. The power steering fluid tank was cracked and had to be replaced. Also had problems with a box behind the drivers headlight? I did hard wire it together and it fixed the problems I was having the the speedometer and the transmission not shifting correctly. Everything is put back together now but I drove it today and the brakes locked down after driving it a few miles?
Had to push the truck hard to get it back to my house, a mile or so. If I let off the gas it would come to a quick stop. It is ALL four brakes locking up. If it sits for awhile they unlock but will lock up again after driving. The truck is lifted and the ABS light has come on. It was not on before but i am pretty sure the ABS is disabled on the truck. The wires are hanging down by each tire. This is how they truck was when i bought it. Not sure what is causing the brakes to lock up.
I did my ball joints, and the drivers side oem manual locking hub was a bear to wiggle out but eventually came. When I put it back in after I finished, the wire retaining ring clicked into place but wasn't seated as far in as the passenger side (I could still see the wire). Didn't think much of it. Drove off. 30 miles later I heard a pop and saw the hub rolling down the road behind me.
Stopped and picked it up, went home managed to find a pair of locking rings i kept off my Dana 50, and I just cannot get it to go far enough in for the snap ring to fully seat in the groove. I tried tapping the axle further in, I tried tapping on the steel part of the hub with a deadblow, but it feels like it's in as far as it will go. Not sure what to do, driving without a locking hub right now.
On my 05 350, I noticed the other day that my 4wd wasn't working, when I needed it of course. I quick test this morning and I discovered my PS hub is not locking in. I've read a lot of posts about it being the opposite, the auto portion causing a problem. In my case, it won't lock in in auto or manually turning. I can lock it in, spin the wheel and the axle shaft isn't turning. The pressure is the same as the other side, not too loose or too stiff. Can I pull the hub assembly off and rebuild it? I watched a video about that, but not sure on how my issue would allow me to work on it.
View 4 RepliesMy hubs will not lock when put into 4x4. I disconnected all lines from the solenoid to both hubs and tested them for leaks... All good there. I put a gauge on the lines at both hubs one at a time while the other is still connected and get no reading when switched into 4x4. I checked for vacuum right out of the solenoid, and I get 2inHg when switched into 4x.
The vacuum pump kicks on every time I start the truck, even if I just shut it off and re-start right away. There is no delay when switching my ac/heater controls to different settings or vent locations. So I know there is vacuum. How much vacuum I should be getting out of the solenoid to the hubs?
2004 F350 6.0L....
I have an 06 F-250. I have had this truck since Oct 2013 and had never use 4 wheel drive here in southern Alabama, so my question is i lock my hubs, turn my selector to 4 high and it works. Now selecting to 4 low and I get nothing.
View 9 RepliesI just ordered '00 F250 SC 4x4 SWB XLT with the factory standard manual hubs. The hubs show up on the vehicle order confirmation as code "21M MAN LOCKING HUB". I can't find this code in the ordering guides anywhere but kbb.com shows this code as "Manual hubs delete. Required with 213 shift-on-the-fly". I want the manual hubs. I think ##### is incorrect. For my piece of mind, could someone who has also ordered the factory standard manual hubs verify that the code is indeed 21M. And for those who ordered shift-on-the-fly, could you verify that 21M does NOT show up on your order confirmation...
View 8 RepliesI am considering buying a 2001 Ford F250 Super Duty XLT 4x4 V10 engine tomorrow. I am hesitant because I cant get the 4x4 to engage. It goes into 4x4 low and high and the front driveshaft spins but it wont engage the wheels. One side locking hub locks but the other side the locking hub is cracked off and so I there is no way to turn to lock that side. I will of course replace the Locking Hub ASAP if I buy the rig but my question here is, if one side is locked should one side of the front axle spin, meaning if only one side Locking Hub is locked should that wheel turn and the other not? Both are not turning but as I said the driveshaft is spinning.
I don't know if both sides need to be locked in order for the front wheels to engage while in 4x4 high or low. Or if one side should engage if only one side is locked; the wheel that's locked of course..
2001 Ford F250 XLT Super Duty 4x4
V10 engine...
I'm trying to figure out why my auto locking hubs do not engage. To isolate the problem shouldn't the hub engage if a vacuum is applied to that hub only? A solid 18 inHg is maintained at that hub for over 10 minutes but the selector will not rotate, which suggests to me the seals are OK. What then might be the problem?
View 13 RepliesWhen I turned it on for a second, last winter, I rem hearing a clunk, and then another clunk when I turned it off. Made sense to me.. So, I figured I'd just activate it again now, and roll up and down the driveway once to exercise it. BUT, when I turned it on this time, the light came on, but no clunk when it came on, or off. I went up and down the driveway anyway, and I THINK it felt like it was ON, but I didn't make any turns, because I figured that would be bad.
Any one that is silent when it locks? I think I saw a post where everyone said it's supposed to clunk on/off. Could it just be the season/temps, only clunks in winter? I have a 4x2 btw, so it's just a turn switch. I hope it's not stuck or frozen somehow already..
My 2009 F-350 4x4 has a front wheel option of Auto or Lock ; I think I understand the Auto option but under what circumstances would I lock the hubs and is it safe to leave them in the Lock mode when traveling on the highway?
View 5 RepliesI just replaced the ball joints on my 02 excursion and I can't get the locking hubs to seat far enough in so that the retaining ring keeps them in place. The ring seats but then works out as I'm driving. There is something keeping the hub from sliding in far enough so that the ring/clip can set deep enough in its groove. What's causing that? Its happening on both sides.
View 10 Replies