Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: V10 Knock / Misfire When Accelerating Under 2000 RPM
Aug 19, 2015
My V10 was knocking when accelerating under 2000 rpm; rain and moisture made the problem worse. I discovered that the 2-part wiper cowl under the windshield allowed water to leak into the engine compartment and onto the throttle body, which then dripped onto the left side of the engine. This caused the spark plugs to rust and the 3 back ignition coils (coil on plug) on the driver's side to crack and fail. This caused a horrible misfire/knock that was worst under 2000 rpm especially in high gear and when the environment was wet. I fixed the misfire and cowling leak. Has not returned. I caulked the cowl and changed all my spark plugs and ignition coils.
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I have a "rattle/knock" that I think is coming from the doors on my 2000 F250 SD extended cab. The rattle is only there when the truck is going over bumps....especially closly spaced bumps. My buddy has the exact truck and it does not rattle.
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I have a noise with my new (2.6k miles) 2000 Diesel F250 Crew Cab. When I make low speed, right turns while crossing any type of depression in the road I hear a loud knock as if the left shock is bottoming out. There's an intersection near my house with runoff depressions across the road, I almost always hear the noise when making that turn. I've occasionally heard it coming from the right side when making a left turn.
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I have a 2000 f350 5.4 liter I recently fixed a misfire in cylinder 1 since then every morning the truck runs perfectly fine however at night when I leave work around 6 o'clock the truck has a misfire again I stopped pullover pull the spark plug out put the spark plug back in and it runs perfectly fine all over again I don't know if this matters but when I replace the spark plug I only replaced one and not all 8 same thing with the new coil pack I don't see how that could cause this.
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2003 F250. 6 speed. 5.4 2v. 4x4. 165,000 miles
When purchased, there was a vacuum leak and truck ran like crap and PO drove it that way for a while. I fixed the vacuum leak, discovered a miss between 1,500 and 2,000 rpms in every gear while accelerating. No miss at idle.
The truck has:
- no CEL
- new Motorcraft spark plugs that were not dropped, bumped, or over torqued.
- new fuel filter
- new air filter
- new alternator
*The miss usually does NOT happen in the morning on the way to work after sitting 14 hours.
*The miss almost always goes away after the truck gets up to operating temp.
*The miss ALWAYS is present after work on the way home after sitting 9 hours.
Fuel pressure?
Bad COP?
Fuel Injector?
Something totally different?
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Code was showing for the knock and climbed under the truck and checked to see if it was plugged in grabbed the wire and to my surprise the wire kept coming and so did a piece of the knock sensor, is this going to affect my truck badly?? worst case?? 97 f250 4.6 standard
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I have a 06 F250 with a 5.4L truck has 50k on it. I have been reading many articles on the issues with can phaser/cam tensions/cam chain issues. I have noticed that when I start the truck a get a knocking noise that goes away with in 5 sec of the truck starting. I have been noticing lateley if I am sitting still at a light and go to give it gas for a short period I get a sound that sounds like a cam chain slap for a split second as the truck starts to move it goes away. I had a friend of mine stand outside the truck and put in gear and power brake it and as it decelerates you hear a quick cam chain slap. I use Catrol 5-20w standard oil and motor craft oil filter. I purchased the truck with #6k on it 3 years ago I have replaced the leaking exhaust manifold with Gibson stainless unit and have confirmed they are not leaking again. I have heard that the hydrolic cam tensioners sometimes get clogged and people have run a oil additive to clean out clog.
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Ok I bought this truck with a bad engine 5.4 3v had rod knocking. I rebuilt engine got it all back together and in truck. I did replace cam phasers and solenoids. After driving 20 mins or so it would start the phaser knock at idle in gear so I put a oil pressure gauge on it and cold had 55 psi after running 10 mins or so had 15 psi at idle then would drop to abought 9 psi. I am thinking I got bad cam bearings or something for some reason don't know why. I did it but I took oil cap off where you pour in the oil. Had to force it off it was pulling that much vaccum ones cap was off oil pressure jumped up to 25 psi. What could be causing this.
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2003 F-250 SD 4x4 w/5.4L engine and 4R100 trans (pic in sig) . Truck has 280K on it with about 40K on a partial rebuild on the top end.
Took the truck out offroading and got about 4" from the top of the 33" tire in water (not mud.. water) . Someone with 6' tractor tore through the puddle.....
Well the truck survived through it ... albeit dirty as all hell and developed some issues soon thereafter. Codes for misfires on cyl 1,3,6,7, general ignition coil, etc etc etc
Power washed the underbody , washed the mud off the engine bay (yeah... with water but given it was caked with mud and water to fill the plug wells... no additional harm) .
Replaced all 8 COP and 4 plugs ( easier ones to reach), oil change, oil filter, new paper cone filter. checked most all the harness connections and cleaned with alcohol also. Reset the PCM/ECU and drove the truck for about 100miles and finally just after putting a full tank of gas (92 Octane) I throw a P0325...
The engine runs very clean, no hesitation, smooth idle, smooth acceleration on both light and hard acceleration. Just the damn code. Is it the gas I just topped off? After 100+ miles with new COP and plugs it threw nothing until this and runs great. Dont hear any knock/ping/detonation by ear and feels silky smooth at idle.
I really dont want to have to tear the intake off to replace bank 1 knock...
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2004 F-250 140k 4wd 6.0. Front end had noise, standard sway bar link knock. I disconnected the sway bar on the drivers side and drove it around. Smooth and noise free. Determined new links were needed, Installed new links and now even more noise. Disconnect them and no noise again. What am i missing? Bushings look good on the axle. Is the pressure from the sway bar putting strain on another wore part?
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2002 5.4 super duty. My truck had started to ping, and knock worse over time. I did some research on this site, and I decided to remove my K&N air filter. Replace it with a traditional paper filter. Then I cleaned my mass air flow sensor. The results were great, no more knock and ping.I will check the MPG next to see if I get any improvements.
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Have a an 11 f350 6.2 gas throwing p0171 and 0174. Driving the truck it has spark knock pretty bad. Ive parked it at this point. Its a tow truck so I need it fixed and back on the road. I've checked the hoses going to the pcvs they appear to be ok.... Also upon starting the truck it just sounds weak.....
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So I have a 2016 6.7L love it but it has this vibration at 65 mph that is worse when accelerating up a hill. It feels like an out of balance wheel but I have had them balanced 3 times. road forced 2 times. My dealer replaced the driveline also. I did a test with 400 lbs of concrete bags in the bed and it was vibration free. It almost is like the pinion angle is off.
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I have 05 F250 SD with 150k on it. The engine has the typical cam phaser knock, timing chain slap on start up and occasionally have a noisy lifter. As long as I use fresh 20-40 oil the engine symptoms are less and the engine runs strong. The motor also doesn't leak or burn oil and the plugs were change out about 20k ago.
The truck is still good and is prefect for my needs so to me it's seems worth fixing the needed repairs. What I would like to figure out how far should I take the motor... just have the chains, guides and phasers replaced or buy a rebuilt motor and swap it? I'm thinking just doing the phases and etc would be 1/2 the cost but may not last as long as rebuilt motor. But realistically I might only put 5-7k miles are year on it anyways.
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So my '99 F350 4x4 is making a clunking sound and there is a distinct jolt in the truck while this is occurring.
Symptoms: From a stop while accelerating, there is a distinct jolt and clunk. The best way I can describe the feeling is like something isn't tightened down all the way so there is a split second while inertia is generated and the "looseness" catches up to the acceleration.
When stopping, the clunk and jolt is generated when the truck comes to a complete stop. When the truck rebounds backwards a bit because of the suspension pulls it backwards after stopping, you will hear the clunk again.
I replaced the ball joints a week ago an a wheel hub bearing on the right side. I don't recall this before these repairs, but it may have been making this noise. I was more focused on the grinding from the wheel bearing so I may not have noticed the clunk and jolt then.
Where I should start looking for the problem?
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Truck is a stock 2001 f250 7.3 with 205,000 miles. When accelerating or braking from about 40-60mph it starts to shake a little bit. When braking it shakes a lot more from 60 down to 40. But the faster you speed up the less it shakes when taking off. Looked at everything underneath is tight, and it has stock a stock steering stabilizer. Would a new stabilizer fix this you think?
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I have an issue with my 6.0 that no one can figure out. It has been happening for about 3 years. After accelerating hard, motor will rev out like it just popped out of gear. It is still in drive and the edge cts says 4th gear usually. I have to let off the pedal and coast a bit and everything "sync's" up again and works fine. It can happen from a hard launch from a light or get on the freeway. I recently put an ATS transmission in because I figured solenoids were beginning to fail. Still does it. I am running innovative tunes with sct tuner. It had a Suncoast billet flex plate and ATS 5 star converter. I run Amsoil fluid, it is clean, red, and at the proper level. Truck has almost 80k miles. Also 37" tires and 4.88 gears. It has not done it while towing our 35' toyhauler, but I am easy on the pedal when I tow. I recently checked the transfer case and changed fluid to Amsoil. The old fluid looked good.
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So lately I have noticed that my 99 F-250 has a bit of a "bump" while accelerating. Think of it as accelerating with a trailer and something is loose on the hitch, making a sort of bump or thump. I talked to the guy at the parts store and he said to put it in neutral and wiggle the driveshaft up and down, side to side.
When I did that it moved up and down, but not side to side, but I'm not sure if that's because it's just positioned that way or what. The wobble was coming from the slip yoke back by the rear diff. Is this something I should be concerned about? Also, I have an ext. cab and short box, 1 piece driveshaft.
Here's a video (a very crappy video at that), not sure if it gets enough info through or not but hopefully you kinda get how much play is in there.
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The truck is a 2012 f250 6.2 flex fuel from alberta canada. This isn't the first tranny form out there that I've heard do this. Tranny seems fine shifts all right just a whine while accelerating.
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F250 5.4L have had a new fuel pump installed and new spark plugs (one blew out). When accelerating, or at a stop i get a kinda hesitation. It did it when I first bought the truck but put correct size tires on it and it went away. What it may be? I don't have a check engine light or anything and at cruise speed no problem--it's just when a slight load is put on the engine?
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I have a 1999 F 250. When I accelerate my AC from the vents changes to the defrost. Other than that it works great and is ice cold. Why it's doing this.
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