Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Turning Over Fine Just No Start / No Fuel At Rail
Aug 15, 2015
I have a 99 f350 super duty with a v10. I drove it Friday night, but it wouldn't start Saturday morning. It is turning over fine, just no start. I have no pressure at the fuel rail. The pump does its little key on run. I can hot wire the pump at the tank, and it pumps. It builds up pressure after the fuel filter. I found that out when I changed the fuel filter. Will the pressure regulator shut off the fuel to the rail?
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I have been trying to add bed lights under the rail of my SD but do the the bed liner they won't stick very well.. How to attach them?
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I recently caught up on some maintenance with my truck, changed the turbo pedestal seals, replaced both batteries, brakes, e-brake cable etc and installed new 10k hid headlights. its a single cab 250 with a 7.3 and zf6 4x4 with 133k. a couple days ago I turned on the headlights and the truck died, restarted no problem and would die the next 5 times I tried to turn them on, then it worked fine. yesterday I got in my truck to leave for work and got no wait to start light, no glow plug chatter, no fuel pump running. turns over just fine but no fire.
I got a ride to work and tried it when I got home, fired right up. I pulled the pCM, checked it out, no weird smells and my TS chip wasn't corroded or anything like that, worked fine. drove to 711 to get a 6 pack and it did the headlight thing again. I removed the HIDs because this all started after I installed them and reinstalled my silvanias and it didn't die when I turned them on. this morning went to leave for work, same no start condition. I disconnected both batteries for 30 seconds to reset anything and same problem. I was about ready to light it on fire this morning.
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I have a 2002 F250 7.3L and it wont start. Its been sitting for the past few days in the cold because the batteries were shot but was plugged in the whole time. I replaced the batteries today and even poured diesel 911 5 hours before trying to start it in case the fuel was gelled. It cranks fine but just wont turn over.
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I have a 2000 dually and the brake line that runs the frame rail finally rusted through. It runs on the same side as the fuel tank. Is it easier to leave the old one in and run a new one along side it? I sure hate to think that I'll have to drop the tank for this.
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My 2000 SD has a brake line that rusted through. The one that runs along the drivers side frame rail. So I need to get new line to replace it. Since I am nowhere near my truck right now, what is the size of the steel line?
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My trouble is upon turning key to start everything goes dead (no power to anything). Does not always happen, sometimes she starts just fine.
After the power cut out if I turn key off, wait a minute, then back to on position she will sometimes come back as normal or sometimes the on "ding" will chatter and dash lights will be dim.
I have checked batt connections, starter/solenoid connections, block ground connection. All seems fine. Get same problem when I jump starter with screwdriver. Been suggested to me ignition switch to blame.
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I have a 2001 Ford F-250 with the gas v-10. Yesterday it started just fine as always. Today I get into it and it starts to turn over just fine then starts to make a grinding sound and the truck won't start. I have had a fuel issue in the mornings with once it started you had to barely press the gass to keep it running. But never makes a funny sound and always runs fine. This only last for a couple of min and then it runs fine for the rest of the day. The grinding is not the starter. I took it off and had it checked and it was fine.
The truck had been using oil. When I checked the oil level it was low but it was still on the stick. "I know a motor needs oil to run smooth but it's my dads truck and well let's just say he is not the best on maintenance". Also I smelled the oil and it does have a gas smell to it. So it definitely does have some gas in the oil. I tried to light the dipstick with a lighter and it wouldn't light. So not sure how much gas is in it but that's what I did.
So the question is, would something just in mid crank go bad and then not let the motor crank. Truck made no weird noises before this so I find it hard to believe the barrings just went out in mid crank and now it is shot.
Also I just checked compression on front cylinders.
Driver side read 75lbs
passenger side read 100lbs
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OK, I have a 2002 F350 with 160k miles that cranks fine, but has a hard time starting when it is cold. By cold I mean that it is not hot from being driven in the last 5 hrs or so. No problem starting after being at rifle practice for 3 hrs or after a trip to the store. Always have trouble starting in the morning, like this morning when the temperature outside was 49 deg. I have to crank for quite a while to get it to turn over, but once it catches, it runs like a champ. Afraid I'm going to wear my starter or batteries out because It seems like I have to crank for about 2 minutes.
I have a fairly new CPS replaced less than 15k miles ago, new glow plugs, and recently replaced the leaky bleeder valve on the bowl. This difficult starting condition came about some time before the bleeder valve seal repair, and is still doing it after the repair. This problem seems to have cropped up on it's own unrelated to any work I have done. I am using Mobile 1 5W-40 diesel oil. When the no start occurs, there is no smoke present out of the tail pipe like what you would get if you had bad glow plugs. There is just no fuel getting into the injectors.
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So here's the deal, crank no start its getting fuel. Has base oil pressure and i put a ficm on that test good with a voltage meter key on engine off and cranking. I haven't hand any trouble finding info on this issue so. We can keep picking away. Just cant find anything about this.
A buddy of mine who has been trying to figure it out for me, Got it to start using a starting fluid. And it would run if someone was pushing the gas peddle but wouldn't idle. Or start without the starting fluid.
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2 nights ago changed the fuel filters for the 3rd time on truck since bought it a year ago. It has 67,000 miles. F350 6.4 L 2008. The truck ran for about 2 minutes and then wouldn't start. For the last two nights have done everything including cycling the key over and over to purge air, replacing the fuel filters thinking the first ones may have been defective, pumped the gas pedal while trying to start it, tried to start it with fuel cut off switch held in, changed o rings etc. The first night I didn't get fuel at the head but after changing the filters a second time, I now have fuel at the head. That is the only progress I have made. The truck has gas and it is fine as we are using it in other trucks. The battery has never been allowed to totally deplete.
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I have a 2001 F-250 XLT 4x4 with V10. Truck will not start. No fuel pressure. My Haynes manual does not show ignition or fuel delivery wiring. I have found the relay box behind the radio/dash. I need a wiring diagram and info on which relay is the fuel pump relay. Want to know so I can jump relay to see if fuel pump is okay.
Truck had sat for a few weeks being ran very little, so had to jump start yesterday. Ran for about 15 min, the shut off, re-started and ran for 30 min. Truck sat for about 1.5 hours then would not start. Charged battery overnight and it is 100%.
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2000 f250 V10 ...
Problem: More often than not when the key is turned to run (?), prior to engaging the starter, the fuel pump does not turn on for its 5 seconds. I have installed a fuel pressure tester gauge to watch the fuel line pressure. It was a little shaky to diagnose because if the line had pressure/fuel from the previous run it will start and run a short time and then die from lack of fuel. Unless the fuel pump activates when the key is turned to run, prior to full start, then there will be no fuel coming from the pump. No start. If you work the key to run a few times until the pump engages its good to go. The truck has never died while driving, once it gets that initial pump activation it runs good until the next start up cycle. When the pump does work it builds up to good "book" pressure and holds it at 39 when the engine is shut off.
We have put off changing the fuel pump for obvious reasons but can not see how it could be the problem since it has never quit once after we get it started. Are we wrong? We know the fuel shut off is on as it will run. We have changed the key lock tumblers, the ignition switch and the fuel pump relay. (behind the radio). Next up is to re-seat all the fuses and relays in the main fuse panel box under the hood. I just read that today on FTE. Is there a test we can do or some engine codes we need to look for? This problem is getting old fast.
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I'm just a shade tree mechanic try to diagnose a hot crank no start condition on my 2006 F-350 6.0 that I purchased second hand about six months ago. I first took it to a diesel shop to have them fix it and the mechanic told me that the stand pipes and dummy plugs needed changing out but couldn't tell me 100% if that would fix the hot no start problem.. I have been reading a lot about this problem and it seems that the snap to connect fitting on the HPOP is the most common problem on these trucks. It seemed easy enough to do so I went after it only to find it was already replaced with the updated part.
I went ahead and changed it anyway but it obviously didn't work. So today I pressurized the system through the ICP port with my small harbor freight compressor up to 80 psi and forced the IPR valve closed with 12v. I then listened for a leak in the passenger side valve cover with a hose stuck in the oil fill cap, the driver side cover from some drain hole under the air filter housing and in the oil filter housing. I could hear a mild hissing from the driver side and the oil filter housing but it was clearly louder from the oil fill on the passenger side. This leads me to believe I have a top seal leak from one of the injectors on the passenger side, but not 100% sure. Should I be hearing anything at all from the driver side and from the oil filter housing if its a bad seal in the passenger side?
Another problem I just found out I have seems like maybe fuel in the oil. I done a oil change this week after 3500 miles since last change and drained out five gallons of oil!! The oil seemed really thin. My coolant level is still good so the only thing I can think of is fuel dilution. Could this possibly be the same o ring or injector that is causing my hpo leak or something else? Will a bubble or balloon test diagnose this?
I bought a cheap OBD2 reader that works on my Ipad with a app called Dashcommand so I can see what codes were stored. The codes are...
P0401- Exhaust Gas Recirculation A Flow Insufficient Detected (EGR has been deleted)
P0528-Fan Speed Sensor Circuit No Signal
P0670-Glow Plug Control Circuit/Open
P0683-Glow Plug Control Module to PCM Communication Circuit
P2290-Injection Control Pressure Too Low
So far my thoughts are to replace the injector and nipple cup seals to take care of the hpo leak. Once I have the valve cover off, clean the injectors real good and cycle the fuel pump with turning the key on and inspect the injectors for a fuel leak. Is there a better way than this?
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I see several threads regarding engines that wont start for no apparent reason. My reason was a failed fuel pump relay. This sucker is hidden in the dash below and to the left of the radio. I got to it by taking out the ash tray. There are three relays under the cover. The upper left is the fuel pump relay. The one to the right is the turn signal relay. I don't know what the bottom left is for.
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1999 F250 SD V10 I recently replaced the in-tank fuel pump and filter. I operated the truck briefly after and everything was normal. I parked it with about 1/4 tank of new fuel and put it on a battery tender. It was parked in a garage on level ground in temperate weather(Southern Calif.). Two months later I tried to start it and it acted like it did when the fuel pump was bad. Cranked fine but no hint of starting. Could it be the fuel lines have become full of air and need purging through Schrader valve ? I haven't begun to troubleshoot but what to check other than pushing the fuel relay reset button.
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2003 F350 5.4, 4R100 trans.... I've had this truck parked for a few years but want to get it into service for farm use.
In park or neutral, it revs great, idles a bit rough but not terrible. But in drive under load it I can't get it above 1500rpm most times unless going downhill, and then it shifts very late, and I have to get it up to 3500rpm and then let the throttle off to get it to shift. It does better in 4Lo with shifting, but it's still very sluggish.
Now it says to check fluid level in Park at idle. When I do this, I just get fluid on one side of the dipstick, not a full dip as you'd see on an oil dipstick. And the wet on the fluid goes up past the hash marks quite a bit. I'm use to seeing the dipstick get oil all the way across, and then a bit higher just up the edges, but have always read it at the full cover point.
I suspect low fluid, but I'm not really sure with the way the stick reads. I was thinking of draining it all and then filling to spec as per: [URL] .... but have a long drive to go get MerconV.
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02 f350 xl with factory cd player. I have power going to the unit like the clock but will not turn on completely. I have checked all the radio fuses and they are fine. I also swapped another factory radio from another one of my trucks and it does the same thing. Any thoughts?
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2002 F-250 SD V10 Auto Trans 140K miles.....
Engine ran fine until battery died. Vehicle then sat from Nov to May with no battery in it. On start up now after install of new battery, engine initially surged at idle and seemed to miss (run rough) in gear/under load. No CEL or codes. After a single short drive idle and running under load seemed to have improved a bit, but not yet back to what I would call normal.
QUESTIONS:
Is this simply a matter of the computer having to relearn after battery disconnect?
Will driving restore things back to where they were/should be?
How much driving/How far?
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And if I have to sift through one more "My O/D light is blinking."
I have a 2000 F350 7.3 4x4 SRW CC with several issues but right now I'd like to address the one plaguing my transmission. If I crank the truck and take off it will not shift out of first gear, well it might but it'll take a while, be at high rpms, and a hard shift, throwing the 1-2 shift error code. Now if I disable O/D with the button on the shifter and take off it shifts through all gears fine. I can drive it normally and if I hit the highway, when I'm up to speed I can enable O/D, it shifts into O/D and I can keep on trucking. When I stop I disable O/D and take off normally again. After about 10 minutes of driving and several start/stops even with O/D disabled it will eventually throw the 1-2 shift error code and give me a harder shift into 2nd and I guess enters its limp mode but is still drivable. This appears to be the only code dealing with the transmission.
Due to the fact that it shifts fine with O/D disabled, doesn't skip any gears, and I can manually shift it through 1-2-D I'm guessing it's not the mechanical diode I've heard so much about but an electrical issue. Before I bought this truck it had been abused, at one point the front driveshaft came loose and ripped the wiring harness going to the TRS in half. They soldered it back together but it still looks a little rough. I figure this is a good place to start. What readings I should get at the TRS? Sensor side and plug side. I have the AE enhanced ford bundle and a good DVM. If the TRS can't cause an issue like this where do I go from here, shift solenoid?
TLDR Version
2000 F350 7.3 4x4 SRW CC
Won't shift out of first with O/D enabled.
Shifts fine with O/D disabled.
Can manually shift through all gears.
Eventually throws 1-2 shift error code.
TRS/TRS Harness has been damaged in the past.
Appears to be an electrical issue with the transmission.
Can the TRS cause an issue like this?
How do I test the TRS/Harness?
If not the TRS what could it be, shift solenoid?
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So either these trucks have a super small window wash reservoir or there is something wrong with my truck. The window washer works just fine and then stops. The washer motor is still working but nothing coming out. I fill it up to the top again and suddenly it works just fine. The thing is that when I fill it up it only takes between 1 and 2 quarts of water. I'd imagine the recover probably holds close to a gallon so not sure why mine quits working and then is full after 1 to 2 quarts of water is added. Perhaps the pickup tube in mine is bent or something? No light or message on the dash...it just stops.
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