Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Turned Over Strong But Would Not Start
Jul 30, 2016
I have a 2001 F250 V10 5-speed that I've had for about 3 years with 60,000 miles on it that I drive about once a week. About 4 months ago I stopped at a convenience store for 3 minutes and when I came out truck wouldn't start. Turned over strong had fuel rail pressure but wouldn't start. Had it towed home and was going to investigate the next day but the problem was gone.
2 months ago I stopped to get gas and went into the store and came back out and everything was dead-no audible with key and door open, not instrument cluster lights....as if it didn't even have a battery in it. I pulled the negative cable from the battery for a couple of minutes and put it back on and it started back working. It worked until 2 days ago and had the same problem with everything electrical being dead and removing and replacing the negative cable brought it back to life as before.
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I bought a 2001 F250 V10. When I first started it cold at the dealer that I bought it from, it cranked for a couple seconds and didn't start. I cranked it again and it caught and started right up. I figured it probably had to do with the truck sitting for a while with no one looking at it.
The next week of driving it, I never had any issues with it not starting on the first try.
1,900 miles later, it's sitting in my driveway in Minneapolis. It's Thursday and I haven't driven it since Sunday. I go out to start it, it cranks and catches, then immediately dies. Subsequent tries to start only result in cranking with no hint of catching. I've given it a few minutes to cool off between attempts and still nothing.
It's 24 degrees out. I'm not sure what weight oil is in the motor. It's got a full tank of fresh gas that was purchased here in Minneapolis. The battery is strong, as it's cranking really fast.
I've just come over from a 93 F250 Diesel, where I might expect problems starting at this temperature, but issues from a gas engine surprise me. What this might be? I bought this truck to be more reliable than my 93 that had 276k miles on it. This one is only a baby with 80k miles.
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Shade tree mechanic, new to diesels and new to forum. I have the dreaded 03' 6.0 F350. It cranks over strong but will not start after its warmed up. I went to Auto Zone and they gave me the following codes: P2291, P132B, P0672, P0402, P0284. Once it's started it runs fine.
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Truck wont start with key. It has a brand new battery, brand new starter & brand new solenoid. When I turn the key to the on position the lights come on but it wont start. The truck will start when I jump the solenoid. Im wondering if its the ignition key cylinder or the ignition switch, or maybe something else like a relay or faulty wire. Where I should start or what the problem could possible be?
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I had just installed an amplifier and speakers into my f350. Everything looked fine in the wiring, but when I turned the key on, I heard a sizzle. Now the truck won't start, although the battery is charged and all the lights come on. It does click, so the ignition relay should be working. Where to start looking for the problem? I am going to disconnect all wiring related to the amp and stereo for starters as well as try the reset mentioned in another thread tonight. If that doesn't work, what's next?
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The whole trip over here weren't any problems. Yesterday I went to the store, started fine. When I walked out of the store, the truck turned over 3 times and just stopped. After that all I got was a click at the relay on the pass fender. I have good batteries. I have verified current through the fender relay down to the starter but I cant get it to turn over. Another thing to note is the solenoid got so hot it burned me.
This, I have never run into. I replaced it today with a new starter with no luck. Could I have a bad, "new" starter? What would cause the solenoid to generate so much heat just sitting there? The longer it stayed connected, the hotter it got.
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I have a 2012 250 Lariat and seem to be experiencing a lot of wind noise. The noise doesn't seem to start until about 60 mph and then from there it gets much worse. If I am driving about 70 sometimes you can hardly carry on a conversation in the truck. I am wondering if this is normal for these trucks and if the noise usually comes from the windshield or the side windows, it is hard to tell where the noise is coming from here.
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Not at the exhaust, but from the engine compartment. Have to open the windows at a stoplight. Can also smell it when I walk past the parked truck. What's up?
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Just got a 99 super duty and I have a very weird problem. When stopping i feel a very strong pulsing from the brake pedal. I assumed warped rotor. but the strange part is when I hit the brake the cab dome light comes on. How to locate this pulsating?
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My 2000 f250 4x4 V10 5spd manual with LSD and 63k mi gets an intermittent but very strong vibration like a shuddering, growling, rumbling in 2WD. The 1st time it only lasted about 1 second. It had been making a swooshing noise that sounded like front left wheel bearing for several thousand miles before this, so i replaced bearing assembly even though it turned smoothly.
After that, It still made the exact same swooshing noise and after a couple miles at 45mph, it had the strong vibration/shudder that lasted about 3 seconds. I stopped and locked the hubs manually. The vibration happened again in a couple miles, so seems like it's not the needle bearings in front stub shafts or locking hubs. On that last occurrence, the vibe went on for 5 seconds, felt the same with clutch in, and went away only after truck slowed down to nearly a stop. I've driven it about 6 mi total since the 1st occurrence.
Front right Wheel bearings feel smooth. I unbolted the driveshaft support bearing and it spins smoothly. The front u-joint maybe had a tiny bit of play, all bolts tight. I didn't check the nuts for yokes, but it didn't look like yokes had any play. Drive shaft slip joint moves smoothly. No up-down play at pinion shaft input into rear diff and output from transfer case. Rear diff oil was full with a little bit of silvery sludge on the magnetic filler plug, maybe 1/10 of a cc, no metals slivers or chunks. I raised the rear wheels and ran 5th gear 2WD at idle (~30mph) and touched a 4' listening stick to the drivetrain components.
The only odd sounds were from the rear differential. It sounded like a bad bearing with random crunches and thuds mixed in with the normal whirring. Crunches and thuds were loudest at front of diff housing. I blocked one wheel and repeated in 3rd gear. You could hear noise like gears meshing (noisy spider gears? maybe was LSD clutches?). The differential was warm after 5-10 minutes, with the hottest area being about 3" from the front of diff, just before the housing widens.
So, I'm guessing the pinion bearing is bad and the intermittent shudder is the bearing race spinning in the case when bearing seizes.
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My 2002 F-250 v-10 sat for over a month with me in the hospital for spinal reconstructive surgery. Battery was dead but has been charged and tested as good. The truck cranks strong but will not turnover. I am unable to do other diagnosis, what might be the problem.
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OK so I have a 2010 6.4 fully deleted. I have noticed that after driving my truck and parking it there is a strong coolant odor but no steam or visible leaks. the truck runs as good as ever and I can't seem to find the source.
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I have a 2004 f250 6.8L and recently I've notice the trick not running strong. Is hesitating when i step on the gas pedal. For example, I am driving on the feeder road and fixing to get on the freeway ramp, well i have to spent a bit harder on has pedal to gain speed, but it seems its struggling and I can hear muffler making like a flapping noise. Also when I am going between 40-65mph and I spent on it, the tricks kind of jerks and vibrates. Feels like its coming from transmission. I let go and step on it again and it goes away. What to check??
Miles : 96k
Year: 2004
No Check Engine Light
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So the other day i opened the door and heard a super loud clunk noise come from the door and when I turned the car on and pulled hte window down it wouldn't go down all the way, only about 75% of the way so I assumed like BMW cars the window motor died but oddly it continued to go up and down just now 100% down.
Then 3 days later when I came to drive the car again the window went down to the 75% mark and now its jammed there with no movement even if I tried to lift the window up myself. Usually a broken motor allows this to happen but since it isn't budging I am wondering if its an electrical issue with the power window button more than the motor?
I say this because when i try to lower the passenger window from the driver side it works than out of no where on the 3rd time it wont move at all than 5 minutes later it will move or if it doesn't move I just go and pull the window down from the passenger side then I come to the driver side and try it and it works again than it'll stop again. So maybe its the power window control buttons on the drivers side that's failing?
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My 7.3L GPR does not trip when the key is turned over. I have the 12v constant and never get anything out of the two smaller wires. I can lay a screwdriver over a small pole and the 12V constant and I get the 12v on ther other larger pole, and around 8v on the smaller poles. My wait to start light does come on and stays on for a short period of time. I have ohmed out the glow plug relays and the injectors.
Here are my numbers passenger side (front to rear)-----0.6, 0.5, 3.8, 3.4, 3.4, 4.0, 0.5, 0.8
and the driver side was (front to rear)-----1.0, 1.0, 3.7, 3.4, 3.4, 3.4, 1.0, 1.0...
My questions would be is there a problem with my PCM or is it just more likely the wire from the GPR to the under hood connector at PCM. If so where can I find a wireing layout to test that. One last thing with my truck is that it has an after market alarm with keyless start that no longer works and is just in valet mode. Not familiar with the way these alarms are wired do they cut into the wire that turns on the GPR. Could this just be my whole issue?
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I just bought an 09 f-250 lariat 6.4 . It has 100k on it. Was driving it AC was working fine. Next time I got in it went to turn the AC Auto on and nothing..the display works fine..lights work..looks like it is working, but nothing. No fan no anything.
Also, the check engine light will come on too. Then next day everything works fine again. Check engine light is out..everything looks perfect. Then this morning the same thing happened..check engine light and no AC.
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I just bought the truck and the ac was working and now out of nowhere when you turn it on it just blows hot air so I just assumed it was out of free on so I bought an ac pro but that did nothing.
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2012 F450 Dually King Ranch 4x4 - I have read many threads on front end noise. I started hearing a noise when I turned left or right and then slowly run over a speed bump. I listen to music at an average sound and I picked up on the front end noise. For some reason you can hear it in the driver seat better.
Anyway I took the vehicle in and the mechanic said he didn't hear anything. I thought, he forget his hearing aid today? I have this expensive warranty plan that would actually cover a few items in the front end but Ford is claiming they don't hear anything.
In their defense I have figured it out why. When the temps are below 40 the noise gets louder and I think by the time they looked at it (8 hours after I brought it in, 5:00pm) the day was warmer.
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When I turned it on for a second, last winter, I rem hearing a clunk, and then another clunk when I turned it off. Made sense to me.. So, I figured I'd just activate it again now, and roll up and down the driveway once to exercise it. BUT, when I turned it on this time, the light came on, but no clunk when it came on, or off. I went up and down the driveway anyway, and I THINK it felt like it was ON, but I didn't make any turns, because I figured that would be bad.
Any one that is silent when it locks? I think I saw a post where everyone said it's supposed to clunk on/off. Could it just be the season/temps, only clunks in winter? I have a 4x2 btw, so it's just a turn switch. I hope it's not stuck or frozen somehow already..
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My '04 f250 with a 6.8 V10 will periodically stop like you shut off the key. It will restart immediately, but you have to shut off the key first. Associated with this are all sorts of codes that appear to be spurious like something is glitching the computer. When it started we were moving out of state so I took it to my mechanic. They chased the codes and found nothing out of whack.
Codes cleared and the next time it happened new ones appeared. The last time it did it the transmission temp gauge quit working, but comes and goes when I drive it. I also have a problem with the key fob needing to be reprogrammed when it happens and the codes showing it is in learning mode like it had been reset or the battery disconnected I am pretty sure it is a wiring problem or maybe the ECU power relay is bouncing.
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When my hvac controls are turned to hot, I'm getting only luke warm air. When moved over to cold it feels like the a/c is on...granted it is 21 degrees here. What I've done so far:
1. Flushed the coolant system at the local COOP TBA
2. Flushed heater core-Both heater hoses are hot to the touch as well as the heater core itself. The hoses are within 10 degrees of each other tested by an infrared temp gauge.
3. Verified the blend door actuator is moving. I can see it spin while attached to the box as well as I pulled it out and plugged it in it will move from hot to cold.
4. Smacked the #$%! out of the blend door box.
The fan still functions as it should from low to high. The truck also gets up to operating temp as usual.
Is it possible the actuator is still faulty even though it moves and not going all the way to the heat side? I considered picking up a replacement but I hate to start throwing parts at it.
Did the blend door give up? The snow is here and I need the heat for those 4am waterfowl hunting trips.
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