Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Truck Won't Start / Just Rapid Clicking Noise
Feb 15, 2016
So I was trying to put led turn signals in my truck then I decided not to because it was getting too dark. Earlier today started without complaints. Then after I was done with the headlights I tried to start my truck, nothing besides rapid clicking. First thought was battery was dead from me leaving the dome light on the entire time while working on it and also having the headlights on a good portion, so I decide I'll jump it. Get it all hooked up and and start the donor truck then wait 2 mins and try to start my truck still nothing but rapid clicks. I got the voltage meter out to check the battery and had 11.97 volts (that's not great but either way it wouldn't start when I tried to jump it). Put it on a charger? Bad starter? Solenoid?
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So my truck is making a rapid clicking type of noise out of the vents when the ac is turned on.
The noise sounds like a thin piece of paper getting hit by a fan (that's what I hear) It started during this past winter when I would cold start the truck. but as the heater warmed up it went away completely. well now since its warm out I am running the ac now, and it blows cold but doesn't have a lot of volume to it it seems. but being the problem was when the truck was cold running the cold ac makes the noise permanent.
The blend door acutator is working as should (i can only assume the blend door is ok) the vacuum lines are good and vacuum signal is good.
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1999 ford F250 SD V10 ... When this goes on the truck misfires and tries to die. Usually I can key the ignition in nuetral and the clicking stops and the truck starts and runs better....
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I have a 2004 f250 with a 5.4l and it won't start. I went to leave the store and went to start it and the truck started when I turned the ignition on not when I engaged the starter so I drove home anyway but there was what sounded like a spraying noise coming from underneath the truck all the way home the truck did die once on the way home but started right back up without me doing anything. Got home shut the truck off now it won't crank or anything all my lights and everything come on like normal just won't crank. What the problem is?
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I have a 99 F-250 SD 4X4 7.3 with about 160,000 miles and still running strong. I haven't been able to troubleshoot a strange clicking noise during the Glow plug / pre start warm-up process. It seems like the noise is coming from a vacuum "relay/ actuator" ( I think that's what the part is) under the hood on the passenger's side. But again I am not a Ford mechanic, nor have I owned this complex of a truck before.
There seem to be two different vacuum terminals that both have two outlets that attach to vacuum hosing. The unit does not have a line ( or 2 ) connected to the innermost vacuum outlet. Does this need to be connected? If I put my fingers on the units outlets to restrict the noise becomes more high-pitched, then will cease to make the clicking sound sooner than if I didn't cover the outlets.
I'm unsure on the process on how to insert a photo. it's asking for a URL, does this mean I need a flickr photo account to transfer the photo? Can I just upload a JPG?
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Whats the clicking noise going on behind my dashboard? It's constant even with everything shut off in my'02 F350. The truck has been laid up for three years and I'm getting it ready to move...
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Last night my truck wouldnt start. Drove fine all day, started up bunch of different times. Went to go home at night. No crank, everything else works, hear the fuel pump prime windows radio everything. smacked the starter a few times but no change. Checked the fuses and relays, all appear good. So im guessing the starter or the starter solenoid, but I cant find one on the truck just something that looks like it could be it attached to the starter.
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I have a slight problem and don't know how serious it is. I own a 2003 F350 with a lift kit. After my drive shaft shattered last September. due to a U-Joint a clicking noise started up in the front axle area after we locked the hubs so we could crawl it down the road out of traffic.
What would be the likely causes and how much would a typical repair/replace cost?
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Diesel truck starts fine. Idles up in cold. Runs fine. Sitting in cab I hear a random clicking. This sound comes and goes. Driving down the highway at 70 it will do it. After an hour or so it won't do it any more. If I shut the truck off and start it again the random clicking will resume it comes and goes? Where to start looking. It sounds like the click from dead batteries but the batteries will turn over engine and start with no problems.
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I have a 2001 F250 Super Duty 4x4 with the 5.4L I bought it cheap and runs well. While going through doing the stuff that needs attention I noticed the 4x4 isn't workijg. It has whatbappears to be some cheap maybe plastic locking hubs and the manual pull stick onj the floor for engaging the 4x4.I can pull it into 4H and 4L, the dash lights confirming come on but the front wheels will not lock in.
One of the cheapo hubs looks like someone clamped vice grips on it to try and turn the and doesnt seem to totally lock in. The drivers side hub sounds like it is lock in but makes a terrible lound clicking noise.
They may be the stock hubs, have no markings to designate the direction to lock and unlock and do appear to be somt sort of plastic hub.... Are the hubs my problem since I can manually pull it into 4x4 and I can see the 4x4 shaft spin but the tires are not engaging?
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So I just bought my first car, a 2003 F250 Super Duty with a 5.4 V8 gas engine with 150,000 miles that I will be using to tow my horse trailer. It has some things I need to fix. The main issue is that it wont start.
When I first went to look at it I tried jumping it, as the battery was dead and I still couldn't start it, though it was turning over. The previous owner then tried jumping it the next day, got it started and met me half way where I bought the truck. Turned it off where we met and it started right up again and I drove it home. It sat in my driveway overnight and then wouldn't start the next day, though it is turning over like before.
The battery is only a month old. There is another sensor issue where they had to disconnect the dash or the truck would randomly stop running. I believe it's the speed sensor? I received the repair reports from the dealer saying "code B1352 in memory for ignition key fault" and they removed an aftermarket remote start. "four U1027 and other U codes found, replaced crankshaft sensor".
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For the past month or so, probably about a half dozen times now, I will start the truck in the garage but I can't seem to get it into reverse right away. It may very well be a timing thing with me depressing the brake pedal, but I'm not so sure. I've been backing the truck out of the garage for five years and I've never had a timing issue, and I'm definitely noticing it now.
Is/was there an issue with the brake pedal as it related to putting the vehicle in gear? Could it be something going on with the brake pedal for that function? It is very sporadic, maybe once or twice a week it happens (I don't take it out that much). Trying to gather info before hitting up my dealer.
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I have a 6.0L diesel that is not a daily driver so it sits for days and even weeks at a time. When I go to start it the batteries will be run down to the point that sometimes the truck will not start and I will need to charge the batteries. I was thinking about installing a battery tender and leaving it plugged in so the batteries will stay charged. I'm looking at the tender in the link.
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My truck keeps blowing fuse 28 in the inside fuse box. This fuse belongs to the ignition relay, and only blows when I go to start the truck. It is intermittent
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Truck was running fine up until now. After the WTS light goes out, I crank it and.... nothing. It doesn't even try. It's not a battery problem. I have 12.6 V from each battery before and after cranking. The lights are bright, the horn works, the dash lights are strong and bright all both before and after cranking. It just doesn't want to engage the starter. I tried my backup key as well, thinking it might be a problem with the PATS. No dice. Where to start looking?
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I have a 2000 f350 xlt and it has been very good until now. I can be driving normal and stop and park, when I get in and try and start it , it acts like the neutral safety switch is not working. the key turns and all my dash lights work, radio works, everything but the starter. I have to put it into neutral to get it to start. then after I stop again, it works fine. I don't get the problem all the time and I can't find a neutral safety switch.
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I have a 2012 Ford F350 I've been looking to install a compressor on. I've poked a hole in the gasket that runs wires through the firewall and cut the tips off of a couple of the accessory wires. Went to go get some more parts and now the truck won't start! The lights and radio turn on when the car is turned on but the starter doesn't even click when I try to start it. What should I look at?
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i have a 01 Ford F-350 7.3L quite and won't start I have replaced the ipr valve and sensor and the crank sensor and the truck still won't start...
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I have a 2006PSD 6.0. At about 60-70mph my truck will start to buck/jitter if i give about 5-10 percent throttle. It only happens at these speeds and i tried all sorts of fixes so far. Also there are no codes. Truck starts and idles great. At more than 10 percent throttle at 60mph, it acts normal. My current fix is just drive normally at 80mph. I also see talks about the possibility of the Turbo vanes being stuck, but wouldn't that happen at other speeds also?
Oil Change,
Fuel filter change
EOT and ECT within 8 degrees
FICM Change with Atlas 40
EGR Replacement (Unplugging and driving didnt change it.)
Replaced IPR valve
Turbo cleaned at 90k (Currently 140k)
Visual check of exhaust system and up pipes and no leak
Current mods
Fabtech 6" Lift
FICM Repair.com with Atlas 40
Blue Spring
Coolant Filter
Edge CTS
4wd ESOF hose kit
SS Brake Lines
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So, yesterday when I got home I stopped at the barn to unload a few bails of hay and when I got back in to crank it, nothing happened. I turned the key and nothing, so I figured I would just worry about it today. However, when I turned the key back to off and started to take it out all sorts of stuff started to happen. There was a clicking noise and a dinging, not like when the door is open. It was quicker. Also, when I turned my key back on none of my dash lights or radio came on. Nothing happens now, except the strange clicking when the key is off or out. The first thing I thought of was the GEM or fuse box.
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I remember seeing a post a while back stating that the reverse sensor would make a clicking noise (when you're ear is up against the sensor) when working properly, I only had one working but I figured I'd replace them all since the 4th one was sure to go out . Fast forward to using two different sets of sensors, and not a single has worked or made that clicking noise like I would assume it should be. Can an aftermarket head unit cause these sensors to not work properly or have I just gotten two bum sets?
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