Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Truck Wanders Left To Right When Driving
Nov 27, 2015
I have 2 F-350 4x4's and they both wander back and forth when driving. They feel like they don't have enough caster. One is a 2000 V-10 extended cab with 8 foot bed. The other is a 2015 6.7 diesel crew cab with 8 foot bed.
I have driven the 2000 for so many years that I have grown use to the very slight sawing of the wheel to keep the rig straight. When my wife got her 2015 it does the same thing. The 2000 is leaf spring and the 2015 is coil spring. This bothered me when I first got the 2000 (used) but I just figured it was part of
the charm of a big truck.
I know I could put a caster shim in the 2000 but there must be a better way to solve the problem. Both are stock, no lift and no heavy winch or stuff.
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2000 Super Duty 2wd. My truck has a lot of slop and wanders down the road. My rotors are also warped and after they get warm they shake like crazy. So I plan on new rotors, bearings, calipers, pads, dust caps and rear rotors, calipers and pads for the rear. I will also be doing factory wheels and new tires and shocks all the way around.
My questions is to rebuild the front suspension and do it to last what all will I need? I see some moog kits but I do not think they are complete for what I need. I only have 126,000 miles with a sound motor and tranny so I feel she is worth it. I know how to work on the truck but the suspension is my weak spot. At 126,000 miles I feel it is a good investment
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It's an 02 f250 4x4 crew with 7.3, 6 in lift and 35 in tires. It has all ways wandered a little bit and I just accepted it. I changed everything in the steering from ball joints, tie rods and drag links less than 2000 miles ago. Everything still seems good and tight. Recently it has gotten a lot worse so I checked again and everything seems to be tight. Where to or what to check next? It's to the point I don't feel safe letting my wife drive it and I don't enjoy driving it.
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My 2003 F250 6.0 pulls to the right when driving at any speed. In order to keep it going straight the steering wheel must be slightly tilted to the left, not much but a little. When the brakes are applied hard it will go to the left slightly if you are not holding the wheel good. Neither of these are terrible, just a nuisance. I'm worried about uneven tire wear too. One front wheel bearing was replaced a few weeks ago. It had this problem before that and still does after. Does this sound like an alignment or maybe something more?
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Driving on a paved road(some potholes but nothing bad) came to stop sign. After waiting for trafffic to clear, made right turn onto state highway truck began to pull to left, at first I thought i had a flat tire but every thing looked okay. Drove two miles to home, if let the steering wheel go, the truck would change lanes in about 25 feet...
2002 ford crew cab 4x4 7.3 power stroke 20k on Michelin.
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At center, my truck is able to turn 2 1/2 revolutions to the right and only 1 1/4 turns to the left. Making sharp left turns is not possible currently. What needs to be adjusted in order to get the steering centered and even?
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I recently took delivery of a new 2012 F250. It was a cab chassis, we had a utility bed and lift gate installed from the upfitter along with heavy rear springs. From day one the truck would pull left when the brakes were applied. The brake pedal also feels mushy, not firm. It will firm up when I pump it. I could also smell burning around the left front of the truck when I would get out of the cab. Hot brake smell. Took it to the dealer with only 400 miles on it and they replaced the front pads and turned the rotors, and gave it back. In relatively few miles the problem was right back again.
Took it back to the same dealer last week with 1200 miles on it now. This time they say they replaced the rotors. I went and picked it up it this morning. Within 5 miles drive of the dealership I can tell the brakes are still bad. Now, it will kind of do a "head fake" when the brakes are applied, pulling slightly left or right, before deciding which way it wants to pull. It will pull right or left now during firm braking. And the brakes were stinking by the time I had it back to them. I turned around and took it right back to them again. Brand new F250?
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Well, I tried this Death Wobble Kit on my Ford F350 Super Duty from a company called WC Motorsports. Had it installed at a Ford Dealership. DO NOT BUY this kit. Missing parts right out of the box. Also makes a horrible clanking noise after install. Piece of junk. Possible fix to one problem only to have multiple other problems:
1. Clanking Noise
2. Truck pulls to the left
3. Have to cut the factory subframe. (Never a good idea)
4. Changes the degree (not recommended by Ford)
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Having a problem with calipers again/still seems like always. Replaced all calipers twice in 86K miles on a 2000 f250 crew 4x4 because of stuck calipers. Replaced brake hoses and all hard lines in the rear about 2 years ago. My problem now is the left front caliper is not squeezing hard enough to stop the truck evenly. (pulls to the right) The rotor had some rust from sitting and after driving a for a while the rust is not completely gone as you would expect. Replaced caliper bled a couple of times. Caliper looks to be getting pressure enough to bleed and can see it move when brakes applied when engine not running. I don't have experience with Proportioning Valves but do you think that is the problem and how do I fix it?
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1999 F250 SD 4x4 7.3 PSD ... My truck has 198K miles on it. It pulls to the left as I drive it. So I took it to a shop to have the alignment checked. They told me that the front outer tie rod was bad and needed to be replaced. And of course they said they needed to put in a set of caster camber bushings to do the alignment. They quoted $400 to change the tie rod out. I said I would do that. They gave me the print out from the alignment but reading it the only thing that was out was the toe. Left tire was toe out and the right tire was toe in, which to me would cause it to pull to the left.
I got under the truck and the steering link, piece that goes from steering box to right side/tie rod, is not tight...I can move it up and down and it clunks when I roll it up. I have a clunking noise when I drive it and go over bumps also. Could this be the clunking noise? Also, if I replaced the ends of the steering link, that would tighten up but possibly push the steering back to the right some to straighten out the tires? I have read alot of threads talking about the clunking being tied to the sway bar bushings being bad but the clunking I get by rolling the steering link up and down sounds alot like the noise I am hearing.
Also, when looking at the axles where they go into the knuckle, there is a loose plastic ring on both sides. Is this part of the dust shield or an oil seal?
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I have a 2008 F250 crew cab lariat 4x4 with 20 inch factory wheels that the steering wheel shakes during normal driving left to right. I bought this truck with 1500 miles on it. This shaking started at 50k miles and I was thinking it was a balance issue so I got new tires a month later since mine were about worn out anyways. They were factory replacement nitto terragrapplers. Shake was still there, swapped out for another set of nittos and shake still there, swapped to BFG AT KO's and shake better, but still there. I have gone through 10 or so balances, 5 roadforce balances, 2 alignments at 4 different shops including the ford dealer through the 3 sets. My wheels are scratched to hell and back from the careless people at the tire stores from so many balances.
My truck sat at the Ford dealer for a week just the other day and they changed the steering stabilizer. I thought it was gone, but a a few days later shaking started again. It almost feels as if every little bump, rut, crack in the road the steering wheel feels and shimmies (doesn't matter the speed, gets worse and more noticeable at higher speeds). The Ford Dealer says can't duplicate, but then when I go down there and test drive with them it's "oh yeah I see that, it shouldn't be doing that". The Ford Dealer says they can't find anything loose in the front end when I tell them to check tie rods, bearings, etc.
My truck has 62k miles on it now and it's driving me to the point of thinking about trading it on a Chevy. I love my truck, but it kills me everytime I make a payment and it rides like crap. I am still under extended warranty so I need to get this fixed before it goes out. I've also noticed that if I turn my steering wheel back and forth real quick while driving like warming up for a Nascar race I can feel a bumble in the steering wheel. This is NOT the death wobble as I use to get that around the 20k mile range and it disappeared and has never been back.
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I got a 2000 f250, 5.4l, I got a check engine light bout 2 weeks ago and didn't experience any driving issues. The code was p0171, just recently I've been experience troubles idling, if I let my truck idle for about 3 minutes it will want to shut off, also on acceleration the hole truck bumps, feels like I'm in an earthquake. Where I should start with this problem?
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Driving up a slight hill unloaded yesterday at about 40mph constant pedal pressure the truck shifts into neutral...at least that's what it feels like. Revs go up and no power. When I take my foot off the pedal the transmission catches and drives fine. There is no bucking or hard shifting, just that slipping. What it could be? This problem arose suddenly....never had any problems prior. It is not an issue that has gotten worse over time...
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All week the truck was acting like the clutch was slight depressed when first taking off and then today i was driving and the underside of truck started smoking like crazy and slowly lost all the gears could put it in any gear and nothing just was acting like it was being revved. does this mean clutch is bad?
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I bought my 2015 in August of last year with 8K miles and here I sit at the dealership with 15K for the second time in 4 days.
Truck loses gauges while driving and throws all the warnings (tire pressure, temp, hill descent, and on and on). If I turn it off it won't start. I disconnected the battery first time it happened, about a month ago, and it restarted. Thursday it wouldn't start until the tow truck driver got it off the flatbed at the service center (go figure). This time I got it on video and parked it at the service center myself. I showed the foreman the video.
The service advisor told me it needed a software update last Friday when I picked it up, which is another way of saying they had no idea and didn't put much thought into it since it was running when they had it. The notes said they did a diagnostic, found no codes, and "drove it on a bumpy road" with no issues. Really?
This is extremely frustrating! I hope they actually do something this time. The damn thing started again before I left it with them!
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I have a 2008 Canadian F250 SD 5.4 triton. Its got 224000km on it and began to get the dreaded 5.4 dieseling when hot and idling. I replaced the timing chains, guides, both tensioners and crank gear. I confirmed the cam timing was correct with the crank key at 6:00 and the chains marks on the R and L. I replaced 2 coils on cyl's 2 and 3. I replaced the MAF sensor, fuel rail pressure sensor, cleaned and confirmed working the crank sensor and both cam sensors. I fixed the broken Bank 2 cam sensor wires. I changed the plugs and replaced all 4 O2 sensors.
Now the truck idles great but when driving it bucks and coughs and has zero power. I cant even get to 80km/hr. The computer now shows codes P0172 and P0174 which means the Bank 1 is rich and the bank 2 is lean. The O2 sensors are working and moving around. The back 02 sensors are both reading in the 0.8Volt range but bouncing around. The front 02 sensors are both moving from 0.1 to 0.8 constantly. The long term fuel trims are +9.5% bank 2 and -4.7% bank 1 at idle. When the throttle is off idle they become +25% bank 2 and -25% bank 1 . How is this possible and what can I do to fix this engine?.
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My truck seems like it wanders when driving down the road. Could it be the fact that I haven't gotten used to the electric power steering? The truck is a 2013 F150 screw 6.5 bed 4x4 5.0....
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So I'll be driving down the road and the gauges will randomly start jumping around then the truck will just shut off, this just started a couple days ago, it seems to be gaining in frequency, when i try and restart the engine all my warning lights flash on and nothing happens, try again and it starts back up, now the last time it happened all of the above happened but it was followed by a fast clicking noise from under the steering column, it has to be a electrical issue as i have full tanks and motor is in tip top shape. Also no codes pop up with my code reader.
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I have a 2004 SD with 5.4 that is running pretty rough both at idle and driving. Truck shakes a lot at lower rpms. I have a scan tool and had a misfire on cylinder 4 so I replaced the coil and the plug. Also replaced the idle air control valve. Plan on replacing O2 B1 S2. (One of my codes) even after replacing the coil and plug I'm still getting misfire detected from cylinder 4??? Other codes I had were misfire detected on he first 1000 revolutions. That hasn't come back though.
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2004 PSD 4x4 72k. I thought I would be proactive so I bought the front ball joints and have plans to install them but recently I starting hearing (and feeling) a clicking sound in the front LEFT when I make sharp turns to the left and hit small bumps now and again. I jacked up the front end and am able to get 1/4" of movement front to back (top to bottom so not steering) in the wheel.
I narrowed it down to the hub. I took it apart and it is most likely a sealed unit so no adjustment is possible....that I can see.I pulled out the locking hub and got as far as I can to know there is not an adjustment. Need to confirm that it indeed is a sealed bearing and if so what are the part number(s) I may need to repair it.
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My Superduty has been pulling to the left when I hit the brakes for a few months now. In the past it's done it, like within a year or two after buying it brand-new off the lot, but that was because one brake pad had rusted itself to the bracket and was not doing a darn thing. Once or twice more, it was a stuck caliper pin, which was quite obvious when working on it.
Last year, around August, I replaced the rotors and pads with Advanced Auto parts stuff. Rotors are still great, pads look brand-new, and it wasn't pulling up until the past month or two.
But this most recent pulling has been a problem that I can't find. It's not the pins, it's not the pads, and now I find out, it wasn't the calipers
This past weekend I went so far as to replace the calipers with Napa rebuilt "semi-loaded" calipers (all hardware and pins and bracket, except for the pads) and pressure-bleed the entire system. The old fluid was green, not black, but now that it's been bled, the pedal is a bit firmer than it was.
I wasn't going to replace the calipers without checking them first, but I broke both bleed nipples off and I wasn't about to wrestle with an easy-out and try to get the darn things out. Per side, rebuilt caliper with hardware and bracket, can't go wrong. (Checking the calipers would have involved using a C-clamp to compress the caliper slightly, then backing off the C-clamp - if the pistons come back out a slight degree, they are free and the seals are still "grabby" and resilient).
While bleeding it, I saw a piece of black crud (rubber?) about 2-3mm in size come out of the left side. Didn't think much of it, figured it was just built up crud from somewhere.
Today, the first commute after doing the calipers and bleeding, it's still pulling just like it was before the calipers. However, I did notice at one point when I hit them, they pulled like they normally do, but seemed to go straight a few seconds into it. It does seem that if I keep my foot on the brake, the pulling is much less after the initial second or two, but if I stab them again, it pulls like crazy.
And by "pull" I mean the steering wheel actually moves in my hand. So with that in mind, it's actually a front-brake problem. If it was the rears, the wheel wouldn't pull like it does, and if it was something loose in the suspension, I would have found it already after checking everything, and it again, wouldn't pull the steering wheel like that.
Now, given that black piece of whatever that came out of the left side, I'm beginning to wonder... if it was rubber from the inside of the hose.
Is the right brake hose causing the pulling because it's coming apart just like the left one might be?
I've gone over and over this in my head this morning, and thought about the ABS unit possibly dumping pressure from the right because of a leaky valve (see side note below), but I would think that once the pedal stab was over, it would even out and not pull at all.
However, this thing pulls left quite a bit, even after the pedal has been held down for quite some time. Usually. Sometimes, it subsides and doesn't pull. But mostly it does no matter what I do, keep pressure on the pedal, let up and reapply, whatever.
Does this really sound like a bad hose? It's intermittent, but usually pulls like 90% of the time.
Side note: The ABS unit in my truck, and most Fords of the time (not sure about later than 2004 or so) is a Kelsey-Hayes three-channel unit like this:
Kelsey-Hayes RWAL Antilock Brakes
It's the same system found in Chevy Suburbans and light-trucks, which I have worked on before and know a bit about.
In my case, it can't be a dump valve leaking, because it would effect pedal-height and not PULL to one side like it does. The only way that could happen is if the isolation valve was closed, AND the dump valve were leaking at the same time.
I haven't, however, gotten the ABS to activate just to see if it changes anything. On my way home tonight I will see if I can find some dirt or sand and get it going
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