Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Truck Shudders And Almost Dies When You Drop It In Gear - Code P1747
Dec 29, 2014
Its a 1999 f250sd 5.4l auto. Has code p1747. Truck shudders and almost dies when you drop it in gear, put it back in park idles fine. I have read all the post on here about this and checked wires from trans up to pcm look and test good. Tested plug c1048 wires with digital meter to body ground with battery unhooked and got 6.66k ohms on pin 11 circuit 925, 421 ohms pins 1 and 12. Plugged c1048 back to trans checked 925 w/y wire at plug c103 got 9.1 ohms back to trans. Is the epc solenoid bad or is it pcm. I think its epc but want to verify before i take trans apart.
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It's a 1999 f250sd 5.4l auto. Has code p1747. Truck shudders and almost dies when you drop it in gear, put it back in park idles fine. I have read all the post on here about this and checked wires from trans up to pcm look and test well. Tested plug c1048 wires with the digital meter to body ground with battery unhooked and got 6.66k ohms on pin 11 circuit 925, 421 ohms pins 1 and 12. Plugged c1048 back to trans checked 925 w/y wire at plug c103 got 9.1 ohms back to trans. Is the EPC solenoid bad or is it pcm? I think its epc but want to verify before i take trans apart.
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I have a f350 2000 4x4 automatic 170.000 miles. Service light on and OD light flashing. I have code p1747 "EPC solenoid short circuit"
This code make that the engine runs slow without power and hard shifting. I change all the solenoid body and check all wiring.
Later using a voltmeter i separate EPC solenoid wiring and see that have 5 volt. If I don't accelerate more 2000rpm OD light is not flashing and truck works normal but slow.
When I accelerate more than 2000rpm OD light begin to flash and transmission fail more. I check that EPC wires mark about 0 volts when OD light is flashing. Transmission hydraulic system seems to be ok because oil is very red and clean. Maybe another sensor is making this failure....
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F250 7.3L diesel started to flash OD light, goes into limp mode, code p1747. No other codes. Have had issues for a couple of years where the truck would not shift into gear for awhile; sometimes a couple of minutes till it would engage. Have done lots of diagnostics. Visual check harness. Have 12v on pins 1&12 on harness at transmission plug. Plug had some ATF visible, but cleaned it up and continuity good. (with 4" exhaust hard to get to connector).
Checked all solenoid wires with a DVM back to plug at PCM for continuity and shorts, all good. Pulled transmission pack and checked resistance on all solenoids except temp varistor all within specs. Removed Banks Trans Command and rewired tranny plug and pulled Ottomind chip from PCM. Still goes into limp mode and throws code. Did not see any bad solder joints or burns inside PCM by the way.
Seems like PCM right? But here is a complication to my issues. For over a year I have been having electrical issues like the radio not working and windows not working intermittently after starting up. After running for awhile or on restart would work fine. Sounds like the Instrument Cluster issues or relays.(?)
Will be pulling IC and checking for any bad solder joints. However, did not throw p1747 till just recently and now my radio has really gone wonky. It comes on when key is on automatically and then proceeds to cycle through settings; AM-FM-CD.
So questions are, "Is it possible that a bad Instrument Cluster can cause a p1747 code?" "Bad Ground to Tranny" "Can a bad PCM cause a electrical issue in IC??" "Are these 2 separate issues?"
2002 f250 7.3L, 4R100 automatic trans, ~180,000miles
Banks Stinger package, 4" exhaust, TransCommand, (now removed).
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When pulling my trailer away from a stop transmission shudders in first gear, feels like t c. Once it changes to 2nd, it clears up. Getting ready to take in for service. Any thoughts? Still under bumper to bumper warrenty. 2008 6.4 auto f 350. 26k miles
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So I've been having this problem that sometimes when I am turning the truck dies. It doesn't stutter or anything it just shuts off and will start right back up. It doesn't do it all the time either. Was also having an issue where the windshield wipers would shut the truck off too. But I don't think that's the same problem.
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I'll try not to post an entire book.. But I bought a 2000 F250 not even 8 months ago, it did have issues before but I changed out the spark plugs and coils and it fixed it's original missing issues.. I also just recently changed the fuel filter but it didn't fix it's new problem.. It drives ok around town but if I get over 35 mph it doesn't run well... If I try to keep a steady foot on the gas but don't get the RPMs over 2000, the RPMs will stay where they're at for just a second then they will drop down and the whole truck starts shaking.. I push more on the gas and it shakes even more and the RPMs don't move at all until I really step on it.. It lacks in power going up hills as well... The dealership i bought it from said the Catalytic Converter was bad but my uncle who is a mechanic says it isn't.. It's the first vehicle I've bought so kinda wanna make it last..
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Simple enough the truck starts then after about 30 seconds it bogs down and dies. I am getting these codes.
705 Transmission Range Sensor Out of Position
708 Transmission Range Sensor Circuit High Input
720 Output Speed Sensor Insufficient Input
743 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit
745 Pressure Control Solenoid Malfunction
1747 Electronic Pressure Control Solenoid A- Short Circuit
Sounds to me like the converter it locked up. What do you think? Its a 5.4L
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I bought a 2003 F550 Super Duty 4WD, cab and chassis truck. It has a 7.3 TD. Real nice truck. I bought it to turn it into a wrecker. I removed the factory fuel tank (was behind the real axle inside the frame rails.) I installed a 50 gallon aluminum tank behind the cab on the frame rails. The rear tank has to be removed for the wheel lift.
Any way I have everything installed and now the truck dies out after a few minutes. It starts up fine then dies out like its starving for fuel. The tank I installed has a sump pickup (tank came off a freightliner, so its not some home made thing I just welded up in the garage)
I was thinking about installing an auxiliary lift pump as the auxiliary tank is a bit higher than the factory tank, but I want to solve the issue not throw parts at it. I thought at first injectors but it runs perfect after I prime it so my guess is its not the injectors.
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I have an 03 f250 5.4l that I've been having some problems with. When the engine is cold it will drive fine and everything. When it warms up, if I go to put it in gear it just dies right away. Why?
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My 2000 ford f350 will start and then dies on me when i try to put in gear. I changed air n fuel filter. Adding oil i noticed the stick was still reading dry. Noticed a big oil spot under the hood. What should i try to do? Do not want to put in shop cause every time she goes in I come out broke.
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We have replaced 4 fuel pumps on a row.
Voltage is good...even ran a fresh circuit.
Ran new supply lines
But, can't seem to understand the continued drop in pressure. It usually takes about a day of driving to crater after a new pump/filter is installed.
It never dies, just loses power and drops the truck to an idle. Funny thing...if I shut the truck off and turn it right back on...full power for a short period!
The truck is used on a ranch that has plenty of rough roads...thought inertia switch maybe but i believe that would stop fuel completely right?
I am totally stumped and so is the mechanic.
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I have a 2001 f250 7.3L. I bought it with 192,000 miles and have driven it to 206,000 in the last 6 months. When I put it in gear, the truck will "bog" down and sometimes die. I will have to refill the transmission fluid every 2 weeks but I can't find where it's leaking.
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I am new to the site and my 1999 F-350 4x4 7.3 manual. I parked on a hill and noticed the truck would intermittenly roll an inch at a time while in first gear and shut off. The parking brake does need adjusting and/or replacing. I also found a re-call for the p-brake cable that i have an appt. for. What i am not sure of is that the clutch is slipping while parked and needing replaced or what it might be.
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I have a delay when I put my truck into gear. It only happens when I have turned the truck back on. It happens in forward as well as reverse. What is causing this? Syncros?
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I have a 1999 Ford F350 5.4L 4x4. I had a check engine code on my truck a couple of months ago. The truck was running fine then. The light went away and I forgot about the issue. In the last week the truck began to run like crap; hesitation during hwy speeds. The truck is running with hesitation in 3rd, 4th, and 5th gear. In low gears the truck seems to run just fine. I have changed the EGR valve as well as the fuel filter. Check engine light is not on but the problem has not gotten any better.
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My 2011 F350 has HIDs in it. When I start the truck with the lights off everything is good. But when i put my truck into gear the HIDs start to flicker. (the switch is still in the off position.) If i set the switch to AUTO the minute i start the truck the HIDs start to flicker. The only way I can avoid it is to leave my lights in the on position and let the auto timer kick the lights off when I Park. But it takes a while and I'd honestly rather not leave them on like that.
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05 6.0 72,XXX miles. Will not start when cold (below 40ish) outside and engine is cold. Throws a P1378 code and no others (per the BullyDog Gauge Tuner that came with the truck). Checked the FICM with the voltmeter test on a morning it wouldn't start. Never dropped below 48 volts through the whole test. I can clear the code, try and start the truck and it comes back as soon as I try to crank it again. Warm days=no problems at all.
Oh yeah...I did go through the harness from the FICM to the injectors a while back and found a couple spots that were rubbing on various bolts. Peeled the insulation back and taped up the bad spots to keep from grounding something out so I don't think it's a harness issue. Also found a ground wire off on the back side of the FICM and reconnected that on the nearest valve cover bolt.
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Ok so I went mudding this past week, and I put my 997 7.3 truck in 4x4 had fun then took it out of 4 wheel now it won't shift past 2nd gear top speed 35 mph.... It still has all the power revs up Rpms fine but it won't go faster then that.
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I recently bought a h&s tuner and installed a dpf delete kit. Everything works great when the truck is not plugged in to the tuner although when I do plug it in, the truck keeps throwing a communications code and goes into a limp mode until I delete the code. I believe it was p0073 but i maye be mistaken. Regardless it has to do with communicating through the obd2 port. I sent the tuner in to get checked out and it turns out its something to do with the truck. I've checked all the fuses and tried to check for broken wires. Where to look next?
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I have a 2009 6.4L F250 with 153k miles on it. Yesterday I drove from downtown Dallas north to McKinney (about 40 miles) and truck was running fine. Left approx. 3 hours later for dinner and the check engine light came on and truck ran very sluggish with hardly any power. Had it checked at auto zone today and got the P040D Exhaust Gas Recirculation temperature A circuit high DTC. I can get the part but not sure if I can replace it myself.
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