Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Truck Pulls And Stops Great But Rear Suspension Is Sagging
May 7, 2013
I know this has been discussed but I still don't understand. Hence my "dumb blonde" user name.
I just purchased a 2013 super duty f350 extended crew cab DRW.
I also purchased a 42 foot (box is 36) Goose neck Bison LQ horse trailer. Trailer weight is 12048 and tongue weight is 4468. Fully loaded I am about 18,500.
Truck pulls and stops great but it is obvious the rear suspension is sagging.
Now what? Do I need air bags? Timbren? Spring Coils? I have called several installers and they all say something different.
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My 2003 F250 6.0 pulls to the right when driving at any speed. In order to keep it going straight the steering wheel must be slightly tilted to the left, not much but a little. When the brakes are applied hard it will go to the left slightly if you are not holding the wheel good. Neither of these are terrible, just a nuisance. I'm worried about uneven tire wear too. One front wheel bearing was replaced a few weeks ago. It had this problem before that and still does after. Does this sound like an alignment or maybe something more?
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I had some more time to mess around with my truck. The 4r100 shifts great until the truck warms up. After about 10 to 15 minutes of driving it starts. With the gear selector in D and under acceleration it will shift at about 2k rpm's and will be in third gear by 25mph. If I climb to higher speeds it will only shift out of O/D when I get my foot into it. It will not downshift into any gears until I am almost completely stopped. It will downshift and hold gears great if I use the column to shift. I'm stumped. No CEL or flashing O/D light.
Things I have checked:
TPS
VSS
All connections to the transmission
Set tune back to stock
Transmission fluid & level
Will the transmission still store codes even if the O/D light has never flashed?
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Well, I tried this Death Wobble Kit on my Ford F350 Super Duty from a company called WC Motorsports. Had it installed at a Ford Dealership. DO NOT BUY this kit. Missing parts right out of the box. Also makes a horrible clanking noise after install. Piece of junk. Possible fix to one problem only to have multiple other problems:
1. Clanking Noise
2. Truck pulls to the left
3. Have to cut the factory subframe. (Never a good idea)
4. Changes the degree (not recommended by Ford)
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I recently purchased a 2002 F250 Regular cab long bed 2wd. I'm tired of the front end sagging so low, so I've been looking into a leveling kit. I was wondering whether I should go with 2" or 1.5" for the kit. I tow about 2000 lbs. 3-4 days a week and do not want the truck to look like it is squatting too badly. However, I really would like it too look more level.
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I got a 2014 F250 SD w/ 6.7 diesel. Since if owned the truck the front bumper has slowly started to sag at both driver and passenger side. Dealer says there is no adjustments for it.
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I have a quick question, but thinking of changing out my stock OEM rear axle blocks for the 2012 F350 SD 4x4 SRW type.
Does it matter what the wheelbase is?? Model being a CC, SC, etc?
Or...are all 2012 F350 SRW rear axle blocks the same?
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I have a new to me 1999 f550 w/ 7.3 and I have installed an aluminum service body with a crane on the passenger side bins. The crane itself weights about 650lbs plus the steel frame it is mounted on (superstructure in the aluminum service body). I'm concerned about the uneven load on the rear suspension. It does sag slightly to the passenger side - guessing 1" - I will measure tomorrow.
1) Should I be concerned?
2) What can I do to correct it? (without just adding weight to counter balance it).
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I have a 2005 king ranch and have a clunk coming from the back over bumps/heaves in the road. It doesn't happen all the time but often enough. I just replaced the shocks, that worked a little but didn't solve the problem. Now thinking rear sway bar end links? Anything I can check/inspect?
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My 2008 rear suspension creaks and squeaks and groans when I move my horse trailer. Truck has 32k miles, has done since purchase last year, squirted wd 40 and that works. At ford place now, they say it is because I added the ride rite air bags. Told them it made same sound before I installed. What to tell them (tech service bulletins ?) or give up and keep spraying and looking for dry joint?
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Trying to figure out my rear pinion angle should be. I still have vibration in the truck around 65-70 mph and sometimes around 80mph if i go that fast. I checked my rear axle last night and its at 8.5 degrees on top of the pinion snout is that correct???? And i forgot to measure the rear driveshaft angle but i can do that after work when i get home. Truck is a 2004 ext cab short bed 4x4...
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Ok so I think I have sticking calipers on the rear passenger side of my truck, not 100% sure but ill be getting under the truck tomorrow to check. My question is how hard is it to fix this and how long do you think it will take? I have all the right stuff to get the truck jacked up and I have enough money to do this, time is just the issue. It gets dark around 4:30-5:00pm here and I get home from school at 3pm, and have work also but not until saturday this week.
I'd prefer to do this after school if possible because I've stopped driving it so that way I don't wear down my brake rotors and pads for no good reason. I have to drive the work truck that has many of its own issues but its driveable, headlights are very dim due to oxidization and is dangerous to drive in the snow due to the tires (no money to replace right now). How hard and how long this would be? What else it could be shoot! The problem is, it slows down if i let off the gas as if i was breaking, high heat from rear passenger side brakes/burning rubber smell.
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So When driving around I'm hearing this squealing almost chirping noise and it sounds like its coming from the rear of the Truck. I greased the bushings and leafs but that didn't fix it, to me it sounds like a rotating noise. Don't think it's the brakes cause it makes the noise when driving not stop.
Also, a bad alternator would make noise while driving over 40+mph, like a loud whistle?
Drive a 2012 F250 6.2L 19k miles
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My 2012 f350 6 lift when I push the brakes it pulls to the left kinda bad and the steering wheel is off to the right..
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When in 4x4 and I go to do a 90 deg turn. The steering wheel pushes back to straight and seems like I have to fight it to turn the wheels. What could be causing this? I was in 4x4 Low on a dirt road at first then stopped, put it in Neutral, and turned it back to 4x4 High and then when turning in a parking lot it started doing this.
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Well just called it quits from working on the truck tonight. Had some issues with my brakes going to the floor and pulling to the right some, so I went to auto zone and bought all new pads. Didn't think it was time yet because I just replaced the rotors, pads, calipers, maybe 20,000 miles ago. When I got home and everything pulled apart I looked at the pads on the truck and they still had 60% life. I looked closely and noticed that the guider pins on the caliper bracket (front drivers side) were seized. I figured this is what was causing my truck to pull. Looked on the passenger side and it looked similar. Went back to auto zone and returned the pads and bought new brackets for both sides. I got the drivers side replaced and working and all seemed well. I got to the passenger and had a hell of a time getting the pistons on the caliper to compress so I could get it off. Once I finally got it, I noticed the pins on that side were not seized. I bought 2 sets of guider pins so I took the old ones out and greased up the new ones and installed them. Put everything back together and took the truck for a drive. Everything seemed normal at first, but once I got on the highway and hit the brakes, my truck pulled to the left. HARD.. Im assuming this is because of the pistons on the passenger side caliper I was having a problem with, not having the piston compress all the way causing my truck to pull. While I was looking at the caliper, I also noticed what '"looked" like a grease fitting, and also a bleeder valve a few inches away from it. Am I crazy, or is that fitting for bleeding the brake lines also...?
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When you turn the headlight switch to the headlight on position, you can pull it out exhibiting a positive click as if it is an additional switch for maybe optional fog lights. If the headlight switch is in the off or running lights only position, this will not pull out. I reviewed the elect. diagram but it does not show and addition circuit for the pull switch functionality?
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I have a pedal pulsation, steering wheel shimmy, and pull to the right when the brakes are applied in my truck. It is a 2009 F250 4x4 gas V8. I just replaced the pads, rotors, and calipers on the front and that's when the problem started. It definitely gets worse with speed too. I replaced the calipers because the right one had seized up and the left one looked to be on the way. There are no odd noises and the wheel bearing doesn't feel like there is any play in it. What this could be?
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1999 F250 SD 4x4 7.3 PSD ... My truck has 198K miles on it. It pulls to the left as I drive it. So I took it to a shop to have the alignment checked. They told me that the front outer tie rod was bad and needed to be replaced. And of course they said they needed to put in a set of caster camber bushings to do the alignment. They quoted $400 to change the tie rod out. I said I would do that. They gave me the print out from the alignment but reading it the only thing that was out was the toe. Left tire was toe out and the right tire was toe in, which to me would cause it to pull to the left.
I got under the truck and the steering link, piece that goes from steering box to right side/tie rod, is not tight...I can move it up and down and it clunks when I roll it up. I have a clunking noise when I drive it and go over bumps also. Could this be the clunking noise? Also, if I replaced the ends of the steering link, that would tighten up but possibly push the steering back to the right some to straighten out the tires? I have read alot of threads talking about the clunking being tied to the sway bar bushings being bad but the clunking I get by rolling the steering link up and down sounds alot like the noise I am hearing.
Also, when looking at the axles where they go into the knuckle, there is a loose plastic ring on both sides. Is this part of the dust shield or an oil seal?
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I have 99 f350 v10 4x4 and trans shifts great under light rpms but 2-3 shifts very hard. At wide open from about 35 mph it will shift down and take off like a bullet but wont shift until I lift my foot and then it bangs hard from 2-3. All other gears are smooth. I did some searching and have found some threads saying it could be an accumulator spring that is broken? Truck has 115,000 miles on it. love the truck but want to fix this before it does some damage.
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On my '99 F250 PSD 4x4 the speedometer climbs very smoothly (normal) until I hit 54mph and then it just stops going up. Reviewing other posts I have changed the DSS (differential speed/ABS sensor) and the VSS (tranny speed sensor). Disconnected both batteries for several hours to see if it would clear.
Doesn't bounce, peg, go to 0, just won't go past 54mph. No power loss. Tach continues to climb and speed continues to increase. No strange symptoms except this 54mph thing. It is completely repeatable. All fuses under the dash and hood check out ok.
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