Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Truck Not Sitting Level / Slightly Leaning To One Side
Jan 27, 2017
I noticed my 16 ccsb 4WD lariat 6.2 was slightly leaning to one side in a parking lot yesterday. My driveway at home is dirt and far from level so I would never notice at home. So before I pulled out of the parking spot I got my tape measure out. I've got 41.5 inches from ground to top of wheel well on the drivers side rear. On the passenger side rear I've got 42.25 inches from ground to top of wheel well.
So darn it the truck is 3/4 inch leaning to the driver side. Is this normal? I can understand it not being exact to the millimeter however 3/4 inch seems to me like a lot of tolerance. The bed was empty when i measured and Air pressure in both rear tires is 70psi. I did pull a load with about 2,000 pounds tongue weight the other day however that shouldn't make any difference.
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2001 Ford F350 V10, 220K in crap condition
First of all on the left side 2 of the coils were so withered the rubber separated from the bolt and were loose. Without any tools I was able to remove 2 coils. Typically there is the hole and several inches inside hole is where the spark plug sits.
On cylinder 4 the spark plug is on a funny angle and is level with the hole or possibly poking up above the hole. Tried sticking the ignition coil over the spark plug but it wasn't correct. Leaving it alone until my cousin can take a look. Spark plug was tight but I didn't put a ratchet on it.
Wondering, is this the infamous spark plug blew threw the cylinder thing. Wish I would have taken a picture (I will next time I'm with truck).
Had codes for misfires on 4 cylinders but that was with 2 coils unplugged (way I got truck at auction)....I replaced 3 of them (1/2/6).Cleared codes...4th cylinder remained unplugged....And the only code I got after letting truck idle for 10 minutes was something about ignition coil D (which would line up with cylinder 4 I think).
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I was sitting at a red light and accidentally let out on clutch and stalled truck. The clutch petal hit the floor and I had to pull out of gear. Petal will come back up if you get it started up with foot but cannot change gears when running. Changes thru gears easy when not running.
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I have a 2001 F250 HD gas engine. I have had this truck since 2010. I drive it only occasionally and had not driven it in a few weeks so decided to drive it the other day. I drove about 30 minutes with about half of that on the interstate. It was a fairly hot day mid 80s and I had the AC running. I parked it at a very slight forward downhill position. When I came out after 45 minutes, I saw a puddle of antifreeze in front of the vehicle. When I looked underneath the truck it was primarily dripping from the oil filter canister but also from a couple of other places. I was down about 4 inches in the reservoir. My small truck camper is on the vehicle and I had my coolant container in there.
I topped it off and traveled about 10 minutes on surface streets to my next stop.After about two hours there I came out to the truck to leave and there was not a drop. I then drove 25 minutes home with a little on the interstate running the AC and when I got home not a drop. I got up underneath it and looked all around and couldn't really see an obvious source. My neighbor is a mechanic of sorts and I asked him about it. He had a couple of theories but one involved the heater. He said to crank it up, let it warm up, and turn the heat on and see if I smelled anti-freeze. I did that and there was not a smell at all. He also said something about a cold leak.
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My truck has an intermittent shake with a grinding/binding kind of noise. It seems to happen at lower speeds, generally when slowing down and turning. When I apply the brakes or speed up it seems to stop the noise.
The rubber/plastic seal on the back of the wheel hub is loose on both drivers and passenger side but I don't think that is the problem. I'm wondering if it is the u-joints or something.
The brakes look shiny and i don't see any scratches on them so I don't think there is a rock or something in there. I have the wheel hubs in the auto setting, and it is a 4x4. The truck is a early 99 7.3L with a leveling kit and 230k miles.
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Ok so I think I have sticking calipers on the rear passenger side of my truck, not 100% sure but ill be getting under the truck tomorrow to check. My question is how hard is it to fix this and how long do you think it will take? I have all the right stuff to get the truck jacked up and I have enough money to do this, time is just the issue. It gets dark around 4:30-5:00pm here and I get home from school at 3pm, and have work also but not until saturday this week.
I'd prefer to do this after school if possible because I've stopped driving it so that way I don't wear down my brake rotors and pads for no good reason. I have to drive the work truck that has many of its own issues but its driveable, headlights are very dim due to oxidization and is dangerous to drive in the snow due to the tires (no money to replace right now). How hard and how long this would be? What else it could be shoot! The problem is, it slows down if i let off the gas as if i was breaking, high heat from rear passenger side brakes/burning rubber smell.
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After a few people telling me that the truck is leaning on the back corner, I checked it today, will check again tomorrow in the street or another parking lot, but here is what I measured at all 4 wheels. The below measurements are all from floor to top of wheel well
These maybe the street causing the difference.
Front Pass = 35 1/4"
Front Driver = 35 1/2"
These are way off, so seems something has happened in this back corner.
Back Pass = 37"
Back Driver = 37 3/4"
Because of the 3/4" difference, what are some things to inspect to see if something is damage to cause such a big difference? Could the shocks be bad already? its a 2011 XLT SCrew with around 76k miles.
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My battery on my 2008 SD goes down sometimes after the truck has been setting for a few days. This doesn't happen very often, and I've checked to see if I left something on that could have put a draw on it. I can find nothing that has caused it. I jump it off and might go a month before it happens again. I've got an add-on voltmeter that show voltage when the switch is on, and it's charging perfect. On older trucks, I would simply put a test light between the positive post and the cable and checked for a draw, but on the later model there is always a slight draw to keep memories alive.
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My truck has been sitting more lately, which means up to a week without starting and running. Each time this happens I run into a dead battery. And I mean dead. I've charged it fully and then used the truck no problem.
We did a test where we unhooked the negative terminal wiring clamp and ran a meter to check for amp draw. We did this by touching the meter leads to the negative post clamp (unhooked) and to the negative post on the battery. It gives a reading of ~1.5 amps. Trying to figure out where the drain might be.
Otherwise, we'll jut pull each fuse to see if we find the electrical area drawing the amps.
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I have a 2016 F-350 with the 6.7L diesel in it. Truck has 10,000 miles on it now.
Since about 3 days now it's giving me grief at idle, e.g. sitting at a red light. The idle is very inconsistent, I can see it on the gauge and you can also hear it rev up then slow down. When the idle rpms drop down (below the 500rpm mark) the whole truck shakes for a second then the rpms come back up. then drop down, back up,... and so on. It does it regardless of gear, it's more pronounced even in P or N.
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This is an update on an older post I took the truck to a repair shop and had it checked. They said 5 of the 8 glow plugs were not working and #3 injector was bad.. They replaced all glow plugs and the #3 injector I brought the truck home and parked it about a 20 mile drive home running fine when I got home. When I started it the next afternoon it was missing just as bad as before the work was done. After it gets warm runs ok best I can tell. What it could be? If the orings on the injectors are bad would it run ok when it warms up? Going to take it back to shop but not sure they know whats wrong by the way the mechanic talked. What to do next they have checked the wiring or at least said he did. It does ok when the oil warms up new hpop and I have checked the oil level and it was ok the hpop and eng. What else to do?
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So, before I noticed a problem, all I had to do was a slight touch to the brake pedal, and the brake lights would come on. Now, they MAY just quickly flash and won't come on unless I really push hard on the pedal, such as at a complete stop.
I've noticed some issues with trying to lock-in 4W-LOW now too, and I know the brake pedal has to be pushed to engage 4W-LOW. Never had problems before now. 1999 F250 Superduty ...
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I just got a 2001 F250 with a Rebuilt V8 5.4 with 310,000 miles about two months ago I changed the oil about three weeks ago. I put full synthetic 5-20w and I went to check the level today and it was way low. I see no leaks and I don't see it mixing with the radiator fluid. Is this normal might it just be burning oil ? I do drive the truck at least 100 miles a day.
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I have a fabtech 4 link 6" lift on a 2008 6.4. The lift kit used to sit level but the front is sitting lower now. How can I fix this?
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I've been noticing that one of my front hubcaps has been backing off slightly. I tap it back on and it's good for a while. But lately I'm noticing that I have to tap it back on more often. I took it off today, thinking that I might need a new one. The part number on the inside is IC34-IA096-AB. It's on my 2003 Ford F250 4x4.
I pulled the opposite cover and tried it on the side I'm having trouble with and noticed the same thing. Upon further inspection, I noticed that the chrome plated trim piece that covers the steel rim has tabs that should be flat to the rim. I'm referring to the area where the trim piece ends, near the lug nuts. On the one that I'm not having trouble with, it's flush/flat all around. But on the one I'm having trouble with, some of the ends are not flush to the rim. That is why the hubcap is not seating in those areas. I can see the gap and I can also push down on that section. It's almost as if that trim piece is separating from the rim? I tried using a punch and giving it a couple of whacks with a hammer, but it doesn't press it back to being flush with the rim.
Why would the end of that trim piece that covers the whole wheel lift up on the ends? Is there a way to get it to sit flat?
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Will an 05-07 5r110w transmission work in a 2003 truck? Some sites show same part number for each and some show different part numbers. I know the gear ratios are slightly different and that there is some other internal changes made to the 5r110w.
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The last couple weeks my excursion had started to have a stumble and smoke white ate the first startup or after I let it sit for a long time. I did get progressively worse. I noticed the hpop line to the driver side head was leaking from the fitting so I rebuilt the boss fitting and now it's not leaking but when I started it up this morning it did the same thing.
If I give it throttle it clears up pretty quickly but if I let it just idle it will put white for probably 5 minutes. I have no codes showing when I looked with the scanner I don't see any other oil leaks and I don't smell a fuel leak.
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Within the last few weeks my super duty battery has been dead after sitting a few days. Draw is around 80 ma. When I pull the air bag fuse it drops to 10 ma. Before I tear in to this thing need to know where to start.
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2005 V-10... I've found some info on the "fuel level data error" but thought there must be more on this. In the last month or so I get the error on the message center and the fuel gauge goes to E. Happened a couple times here and there and then the CEL has come on. Have nto been able to get the CEL to go out because it happens too often now.
Have tried a couple bottles of Techron because that is suppose to fix it but no luck after about 150 miles. Can't find any loose wires/connectors. Am ready to give up and drop the tank. Is the sensor separate or part of the pump assy? Also don't see alot on dropping the tank on SDs. Any tips?
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I filled my coolant yesterday after driving to the "max" line. Today when I awoke it was right at the "min" line. I didn't see any noticeable liquid below the truck, except under each front fender but I think this was water from the dew evaporating/condensing and running off the truck. What happened to the coolant or did it just cool down and condense. It got pretty cool last night (mid 40s). I have an 02 f250 5.4L ... I feel like there is a leak somewhere, any link to or a procedure they can explain for finding it?
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Having problems with a slow drain on batteries? My truck wouldn't start after sitting for 5 days.
After recharging and starting it up once, I pulled the key, and disconnected the battery harness and checked for current on all the red wires in the harness. Only one drew current. I found the small red wire on the drivers side initially draws 470mA for 1 minute, then draws 22mA. In my experience in mobile audio, 22mA can drain a battery over several days.
Has anyone out there checked their 'dark current' draw? I have chased it all over and checked all the aftermarket add-ons and it comes down to something in the factory dash.
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