Truck jerks violently when tring to brake only when towing. Its has done it when towing a large trailer with surge brakes, Does it 1 out of 3 times when stopping with electric brakes (goose neck trailer)...
View 12 Replies2008 f250 standard cab long bed 2wd base model 5.4. This thing has been great for the last few years i i owned it but it developed a shake since i got new tires. My mechanic mounted 4 new Hercules Terra trac at 2's on my 18 inch wheels (275 70 18) and when i got the truck back it was shaking violently at anything over 45. Mechanic says the new tires are heavy and its affecting other things...sounds plausible. So here i am a month later with a New steering stabilizer, all new ball joints, new shocks, new u joints, and 1 new tire (he said 1 of the brand new Hercules had a broken chord). The shake is 80% gone but this truck is still not the same. Anything after 65mph and it has a feint wobbly bouncy shake. I don't think its the dreaded hop that everyone gets on these. I have 2 theories:
1. These cheap tires just suck and will never be right
2. The cheap junk Monroe shocks he put on are way too soft to do anything
so what do i do? Should i get some crazy shocks or will that make this truck even bouncier? Im worried about making it even stiffer than it already is.
I have a 2000 f350 v10 ext cab 8 ft bed 4wd,i replaced all 10 plugs all 10 coils at 40 mph the truck violently shakes an vibrates read on a few things that could be crack cylinder or bad pistons,i did a test on it an says low compression in 2 cylinders 1&2 what can I do an what is the best option for me as I just got the truck not even a month ago...
View 3 RepliesIt's an 04 F350 6.8L This past winter when it was cold I would start it up and it would rock forward and bounce back as is you shifted in to park while rolling. Now that it's warmed up it won't jerk forward but the whole body shakes only at start up. As much as I like the idea of of the raw torque being so powerful the truck twists with power I don't think that's the case.
View 5 RepliesI am getting what i think is death wobble at around 45-55 mph in my 2012 but not near as violent as others/videos have described. I do not have a lift but i do have 35x55x12 mud tires. I got an alignment but it is still happening. I have read that it is usually caster but i thought this was only in lifted trucks? I am putting a 3.5 inch lift on it to better clear my tires in a couple of weeks and it comes with a trac bar relocation bracket. Will this fix the issue? I have checked tie rods/ball joints as well and they seem ok. Will the relocation bar fix the issue? I also have dual stabilizers on it. That firm up the steering after i put the tires on but the intermittent wobble is still there. Most of my driving is between 45-55mph so it can become annoying.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2005 F250 with the 6.0L. I went to pass a person, I got the truck up to 80 - 85 mph and made the pass. Everything was fine for a second or two, then the truck started to rock back and forth violently. It shook so hard, it removed cups from the cup holders. I never felt I lost control of the truck, but I have never experienced anything like it before. I slowed the truck down to about 60 mph and the problem stop. What in the world could have caused this?
View 14 RepliesMy 02 f250 started shaking violently until when I accelerated and the mechanic said it was the wiring harness in the computer. He said it was caused because of over revving I think it was just because the harness was old. Is it because of over revving? Will it happen again?
View 7 RepliesJust purchased new to me '08 F-350 w/ 150K miles and I'm currently having this issue. It will steer to the left and right sharply, and it will stop if I park the truck for a couple of minutes. Can't drive it on the road at the moment as it's too dangerous. Doing a search revealed the following: steering box or u-joints. Should I try using penetrating oil on the u-joints and see if the problem goes away? What is the easiest way to gain access to the u-joints?
View 11 RepliesI replaced a rear rusted brake line a couple of years ago. It rusted where the line met the bracket. I'd never done this before but bought a flare (flaring?) tool and fixed it.
This week the longer line that runs down the length of the truck started leaking. It looks like the line was once held in place by a small bracket just in front of the rear wheel but it wasn't in that bracket anymore. I guess it rubbed against the metal and water/sand rusted it out.
A local garage said they'd need to drop the fuel tank and estimated that it would be several hours (and hundreds of dollars) to do the job. It looks like I might be able to cut the old one out and then fish the new line up through there and replace it.
Also, what is the diameter of the line? It is a 2004 F350. I can certainly cut it out first and then take a piece of it to the local auto parts place to get the replacement line.
Today I was going to launch my new boat and when I backed down the ramp, the brake went to the floor almost sinking the truck. Long story short, the brake line that runs along the frame to the rear brakes rusted through at a bend that I couldn't see. Seems the line is about 8 feet long. What I'd like to know is can I replace it without dropping the fuel tank which of course I just filled yesterday and can I obtain one at a ford dealer or will I have to order one. My truck is my only transportation.
View 1 RepliesMy 02 F250 has me baffled. For a while the truck would pull to the right when hitting the brakes and occasionally the brake would get hot. To try and remedy this I put a new caliper and hose on the right front corner a new hose on the left front side. The truck still pulled right and the pedal got spongy even after bleeding the brakes 3 times. I got to checking the rest of the brakes and found a seized slide pin on the left rear. Got that fixed and still pulling right with a soft pedal. I've checked all of the sliders and none are seized. I am lost and I cant stand the soft pedal!
View 4 RepliesProblem: 55-60+ mph hit a bump front end shakes violently. Slow down to 40 mph it stops. DOES NOT happen every time, and may only happen once a week, but when it does my whole front end feels like it will come loose.
Solutions to date that have not worked:
1. Rotate and balance tires. (tire shop)
2. New shocks. (me)
3. New steering stabilizer. (me)
4. Changed ball joint and bushing in track bar. (Dealership)
5. Check ball bearings and seem to be ok. (me)
6. Check tie rod ends and are ok. (Dealership)
The only other options people have given me:
1. Dual Steering Stabilizer. (Have had truck since Jan and hasn't done it in about 19,000 miles. Why would it need it now? Truck has 109,000 miles on it.)
2. New tires. (If it were the tires wouldn't it do it all the time? )
How does the 5.4 hold up for towing? Which trans works the best with this motor? I have a 5th wheel car trailer that I pull with a 36 hp tractor and loader on it sometimes. Would the 5.4 be to small or should I just stick with my powerstroke?
I was think of updating my old pickup with a 99 f250 cc 4x4 with either a 5.4 or powerstroke and either a auto trans or 6 spd manual What are your thoughts?
We have a 99 F250 193,000 miles with a 5.4 and a 5 speed manual with 3:73 gears and we tow a camper that weighs empty 6700 lbs. I knew something was off when we were bringing it home, there was no real umph in the motor. It wouldn't get past 55 in 5th gear on the express way, and just felt as though it was gonna blow up. Its a new to us truck and on paper it should tow this easily. We have a couple of trips under our belt now, and nothing has really changed. With gear and goodies I dont think we're even talking 7500 lbs. I like the truck, and don't really want to get rid of it. With in reason what should I expect to be able to tow and what can I do to better the situation.
View 14 RepliesMy early 04 runs great until I tow my 24ft rv any distance over a 2 or 3 hour period. When I exit the eway to fuel up or take a break it will stumble and this last time it quit running all together. I use my scanguage, all Temps good while towing never go faster then 65mph, new batteries etc. I had it towed to a local diesel repair shop that I have used before (all the 6.0 problems, oil cooler, egr hpfp, ficm).. When I Went to see them a day later, told me truck started right up and ran great, pulled a few minor codes, none that would have caused my issues. Scanner based testing passed air management, injector balance, all cylinders even.
When they originally scanned, it did show multiple docs for injector contributing, egr insufficient flow, 2 glow plugs and cam/crank sensor, but after cool down again started up and ran great. Truck has 200k on it. Last oil analysis showed internal engine in great shape. I trust this shop and this is not the first 6.0 they have worked on, I am just learning now of taking the rv on the road now. It would be difficult to hook rv up and just runaround to try and replicate what happened and be able to get to any repair facility. Truck is stock with exception of 4 inch exhaust,turbo back, no tuner etc. Also shop and I checked ICP and it is good, quarter volt. It was replaced with pigtail a few years ago.I also have the blue spring upgrade .Just drove to town and back and it runs perfect!
Pulled into parking lot this morning, 05 F250 CC 4x4 V10, truck starts dinging at me, Park brake light comes on. Ease off of gas and idle around to parking place, no sign of brake drag. Release Park brake, no difference, set the brake and release, no difference, guess the microswitch went bad. Not raining, never hit a bump, MAY have had my foot on the brake, but that shouldn't effect the P Brake.
After setting for the 12 hour shift, all is good and well. Did not come back on.
Where this switch is? Is it under the cover by the foot set or under the truck along the cable? Would like to know where to look next time this comes up. Did have 2 new tires installed on the front a week ago, new tierod and aligned at the same time.
Just wondering and curious, my last F150 had all kinds of electrical germlins in the windshield wiper arm.
I'm sure this is a common issue, but I don't know exactly what to search for. I have a 2001 F250 7.3L. When I stop my truck, with my foot on the brake, the steering absolutely doesn't work. I replaced the PS pump, which it needed, plus all the hoses and it got better, but the no steer problem while braking is still there. I have seen that an upgrade in pressure hoses may work?
View 1 RepliesTo tow a CASE 580L backhoe I believe a 1 ton should be just at its legal limit for towing. My question is do I need DRW's if I've got a gooseneck trailer total weight about 18K lbs (or will single rear wheels be legal)?
View 10 RepliesFor the first time while towing a bumper pull trailer, started getting a very strong burning smell, only while going up decent size hills. After the climb, smell goes away. Kind of smells like burning rubber or wiring, but that should be constant and not just while up hill.
Checked tranny fluid and it didn't look burnt or low and never saw visible smoke. Have seen this discussed before but with no definitive conclusions. Truck has 150K on it and has long ago lost most of its towing power and the hills also drop the speed to around 45mph from 70 when I hit the big ones.
I have a 2001 excursion 7.3 4x4 with the 6.0L trans cooler. It is over heating when heavy, uphill towing is under way. I am guessing that my computer has been reprogramed at some point and more fuel is being injected than the radiator is designed to cool. I know my trans cooler is clean. I have tried cleaning the radiator and intercooler with a garden hose. I am considering a hood scoop or some sort of vents in the hood. When it over heats I turn on the heater and open the hood and the engine temps drop in just a few minutes so I believe that the engine needs more cooling or I need to slow down a bit on hills. Any other cheap fixes to get more air in to cool things under the hood more?
View 1 RepliesI am wondering IF THERE ARE ANY CONNECTIONS WITH TOWING AND THE ABS LIGHT coming on? I just did 360 mile round trip on I84 and I 81 in western NY and eastern PA with decent hill climbs (some with 6% or so grades) - think coal country. I was pulling 8,000 or so pounds (trailer with a jeep on it).
On the way out, the ABS light came on. I pulled into a rest stop and shut her down for a bit. I had been driving on this terrain for the better part of 2 hours. I restarted and the ABS light turned off for the balance of the trip. It was cold (in the 20's) outside. On the return trip 2 days later, the same thing happened after 90 minutes. I stopped again and restarted the trip which turned off the light. This time, the light came back on 10 or so minutes later.
This is the only occasion when my ABS light has come on.
2005 F250 Crew Cab SuperDuty 6.0L