Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Truck Won't Start - Turned Over 3 Times And Just Stopped?
May 30, 2014
The whole trip over here weren't any problems. Yesterday I went to the store, started fine. When I walked out of the store, the truck turned over 3 times and just stopped. After that all I got was a click at the relay on the pass fender. I have good batteries. I have verified current through the fender relay down to the starter but I cant get it to turn over. Another thing to note is the solenoid got so hot it burned me.
This, I have never run into. I replaced it today with a new starter with no luck. Could I have a bad, "new" starter? What would cause the solenoid to generate so much heat just sitting there? The longer it stayed connected, the hotter it got.
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It seems like recently almost every time I start my truck it beeps 5 beeps 5 times. so it beeps 25 times. what could this be and how do i get rid of it. I wear my seatbelt so it is not that. There has to be a relay or something to stop the dam thing from doing it.
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Ok here goes I dive a 1999 f250 super duty with 5.4 it's automatic 4x4. I dropped my kids off at school and was headed home turned a corner when the oil/temperature light flashed and the truck just quit. I tried restarting it and it just clicked like the battery dead. Had my better half come and jump it. Did not work it would only roll about a half Revolution and stop. So we towed it home where I put the battery on the charger. Now I can't even get it to roll over. And yes there is oil and it did not over heat.
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Here in the last week or so I have noticed what seems like loss of power in my 04 F250. When I get on the gas it doesn't seems to respond like it used to. When I turn off the truck i can smell diesel a little bit. could it just be a clogged injector, bad plugs or what?
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I have a 2001 ford f350 v10 dually. about 2 months ago it blew a plug out and i had it fixed and shortly after it developed a starting issue. It starts fine for a day or so then after it sits for a day it wont start without out cycling the key 5 to 10 times....It cranks fine just wont try to start or even sputter....took to a shop that replaced my jem Module and he had it for a week and only one time did it not start. I drive it home and it sits overnight and wont start the next day. took it back and he couldn't find out what is going on.
Its has started and ran just fine no issues once its running but shut it off for a couple hours you got a chance it wont start. I've eventually got it to start every time so far. The shop said my fuel pressure was 40 psi but would go down after it sat to about 10 to 20. The one time it did not start for the shop they said it had no fuel pressure but then he just cycled the ignition a few time and it started. What to check that would be normal like the fuel pump or relays and fuses. I should say early this year around jan feb it had the starting issue once and thought it was due to a autostart that was installed before I bought it and so got it going and just removed autostart when started having trouble with starting.
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I have a 2001 F250 V10 5-speed that I've had for about 3 years with 60,000 miles on it that I drive about once a week. About 4 months ago I stopped at a convenience store for 3 minutes and when I came out truck wouldn't start. Turned over strong had fuel rail pressure but wouldn't start. Had it towed home and was going to investigate the next day but the problem was gone.
2 months ago I stopped to get gas and went into the store and came back out and everything was dead-no audible with key and door open, not instrument cluster lights....as if it didn't even have a battery in it. I pulled the negative cable from the battery for a couple of minutes and put it back on and it started back working. It worked until 2 days ago and had the same problem with everything electrical being dead and removing and replacing the negative cable brought it back to life as before.
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Truck wont start with key. It has a brand new battery, brand new starter & brand new solenoid. When I turn the key to the on position the lights come on but it wont start. The truck will start when I jump the solenoid. Im wondering if its the ignition key cylinder or the ignition switch, or maybe something else like a relay or faulty wire. Where I should start or what the problem could possible be?
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I had just installed an amplifier and speakers into my f350. Everything looked fine in the wiring, but when I turned the key on, I heard a sizzle. Now the truck won't start, although the battery is charged and all the lights come on. It does click, so the ignition relay should be working. Where to start looking for the problem? I am going to disconnect all wiring related to the amp and stereo for starters as well as try the reset mentioned in another thread tonight. If that doesn't work, what's next?
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Last night my truck wouldnt start. Drove fine all day, started up bunch of different times. Went to go home at night. No crank, everything else works, hear the fuel pump prime windows radio everything. smacked the starter a few times but no change. Checked the fuses and relays, all appear good. So im guessing the starter or the starter solenoid, but I cant find one on the truck just something that looks like it could be it attached to the starter.
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So I just bought my first car, a 2003 F250 Super Duty with a 5.4 V8 gas engine with 150,000 miles that I will be using to tow my horse trailer. It has some things I need to fix. The main issue is that it wont start.
When I first went to look at it I tried jumping it, as the battery was dead and I still couldn't start it, though it was turning over. The previous owner then tried jumping it the next day, got it started and met me half way where I bought the truck. Turned it off where we met and it started right up again and I drove it home. It sat in my driveway overnight and then wouldn't start the next day, though it is turning over like before.
The battery is only a month old. There is another sensor issue where they had to disconnect the dash or the truck would randomly stop running. I believe it's the speed sensor? I received the repair reports from the dealer saying "code B1352 in memory for ignition key fault" and they removed an aftermarket remote start. "four U1027 and other U codes found, replaced crankshaft sensor".
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For the past month or so, probably about a half dozen times now, I will start the truck in the garage but I can't seem to get it into reverse right away. It may very well be a timing thing with me depressing the brake pedal, but I'm not so sure. I've been backing the truck out of the garage for five years and I've never had a timing issue, and I'm definitely noticing it now.
Is/was there an issue with the brake pedal as it related to putting the vehicle in gear? Could it be something going on with the brake pedal for that function? It is very sporadic, maybe once or twice a week it happens (I don't take it out that much). Trying to gather info before hitting up my dealer.
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I have a 6.0L diesel that is not a daily driver so it sits for days and even weeks at a time. When I go to start it the batteries will be run down to the point that sometimes the truck will not start and I will need to charge the batteries. I was thinking about installing a battery tender and leaving it plugged in so the batteries will stay charged. I'm looking at the tender in the link.
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My truck keeps blowing fuse 28 in the inside fuse box. This fuse belongs to the ignition relay, and only blows when I go to start the truck. It is intermittent
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Truck was running fine up until now. After the WTS light goes out, I crank it and.... nothing. It doesn't even try. It's not a battery problem. I have 12.6 V from each battery before and after cranking. The lights are bright, the horn works, the dash lights are strong and bright all both before and after cranking. It just doesn't want to engage the starter. I tried my backup key as well, thinking it might be a problem with the PATS. No dice. Where to start looking?
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I have a 2000 f350 xlt and it has been very good until now. I can be driving normal and stop and park, when I get in and try and start it , it acts like the neutral safety switch is not working. the key turns and all my dash lights work, radio works, everything but the starter. I have to put it into neutral to get it to start. then after I stop again, it works fine. I don't get the problem all the time and I can't find a neutral safety switch.
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I have a 2012 Ford F350 I've been looking to install a compressor on. I've poked a hole in the gasket that runs wires through the firewall and cut the tips off of a couple of the accessory wires. Went to go get some more parts and now the truck won't start! The lights and radio turn on when the car is turned on but the starter doesn't even click when I try to start it. What should I look at?
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i have a 01 Ford F-350 7.3L quite and won't start I have replaced the ipr valve and sensor and the crank sensor and the truck still won't start...
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I have a 2006PSD 6.0. At about 60-70mph my truck will start to buck/jitter if i give about 5-10 percent throttle. It only happens at these speeds and i tried all sorts of fixes so far. Also there are no codes. Truck starts and idles great. At more than 10 percent throttle at 60mph, it acts normal. My current fix is just drive normally at 80mph. I also see talks about the possibility of the Turbo vanes being stuck, but wouldn't that happen at other speeds also?
Oil Change,
Fuel filter change
EOT and ECT within 8 degrees
FICM Change with Atlas 40
EGR Replacement (Unplugging and driving didnt change it.)
Replaced IPR valve
Turbo cleaned at 90k (Currently 140k)
Visual check of exhaust system and up pipes and no leak
Current mods
Fabtech 6" Lift
FICM Repair.com with Atlas 40
Blue Spring
Coolant Filter
Edge CTS
4wd ESOF hose kit
SS Brake Lines
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So I was trying to put led turn signals in my truck then I decided not to because it was getting too dark. Earlier today started without complaints. Then after I was done with the headlights I tried to start my truck, nothing besides rapid clicking. First thought was battery was dead from me leaving the dome light on the entire time while working on it and also having the headlights on a good portion, so I decide I'll jump it. Get it all hooked up and and start the donor truck then wait 2 mins and try to start my truck still nothing but rapid clicks. I got the voltage meter out to check the battery and had 11.97 volts (that's not great but either way it wouldn't start when I tried to jump it). Put it on a charger? Bad starter? Solenoid?
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I just bought a 2000 F250 SD, 4x4, 5.4, Quad Cab. I drove it off the lot, stopped to put air in the tires, jumped back in and it wouldn't crank. All of the dash lights worked fine. Tried jumping at the starter solenoid and got nothing. Got under the truck and jumped it off the starter, vroom, fired right up. Replaced the starter solenoid and had no issues for about 2 hours. Then it did it again. This time it wouldn't start at all. I towed it back to the dealer and they had it for 3 weeks.
Then yesterday I called and they said it was done. Picked it up, drove to the barber shop, got my hair cut, came back out and it did the same thing AGAIN. After jacking around with the shifter and turning the wheel back and forth 100 times it started. The key is kind of hard to turn sometimes in the ignition, so I'm thinking that the ignition cylinder needs to be lubed real good, but that shouldn't stop it from cranking the motor over, right? I was going to swap out the ignition switch, but I don't know if that will do any good either.
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I have a 2008 f250 with 5.4v8. The truck starts intermittently. Put key in turn if no dash lights it doesn't even crank or hear a click. If u put key in and turn and dash lights up to starts and runs. U can watch the different lights (instrument cluster) light up independently like a xmas tree. When truck doesn't start if u disconnect battery when touching power wire to battery. Post truck lights will flick on/off if u tap cables to battery and leave on. Lights flicker on/off and then stay off. (Don't know why shouldn't flicker at all) after disconnecting and reconnecting battery truck will or will not start still depends on if dash lights come on before cranking.i replaced battery, starter, alternator, all the ground cable connections and wire cleaned. I haven't replaced the power side but are clean.
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