Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Transmission Shifted Into Drive Takes 5 Seconds Or More For It To Engage Hard
Apr 20, 2014
I have a 2006 F250 Lariat super Duty / 6.0 L engine / 143000+ miles / once started and transmission shifted into drive it takes 5 seconds or more for it to engage hard or if I build up the RMS then it jumps into gear hard, after it gets going it feels like I am driving on a washboard until it get warmed up good 10 mile or so. Is it the transmission filter and if so which one, I understand there is a small one on the outside of the transmission if so where? I can't find it.
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I have a 1999 F250 super duty that blew a front seal on the transmission two weeks ago. I sent it to a shop and they replaced the seal, and torque converter. However when they put it back in it will not engage in drive or reverse. After working on it several days we replaced the transmission with another one from a service company. This replacement came with a 90 day warranty. However once it was installed it does the same thing and will not engage in drive, or reverse. I am not sure what is going on but with two doing the same thing it makes me thing maybe electrical or something else.
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Ok so I'm having a problem that seems to have been getting worse. 1999 7.3, auto, 4 door, long bed, 6" lift. When I got the truck a while back I had a slight problem where if I was accelerating hard I would hear a clunk when it shifted into 3rd gear. I'm not hard on the truck that often so it took me a while to realize that the noise was the driveshaft hitting the floorboard right at the joint at the transfer case output.
The carrier bearing was flopping around a bit so I replaced that first. No better... kept driving the truck since it was only a problem while being really hard on it. But it's gotten worse so now when I tow (usually not more than 7-8k lbs) I have a bad vibration on takeoff at low speed. If I try to take off from a stop very hard with any load the driveshaft jumps into the floorboard. So I just replaced the transmission mount and checked the motor mounts, no better. Only thing I can figure at this point is axle wrap...?
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One of our trucks, 2004 F350 Powerstroke, my company truck, recently the last snow even we had, my tow haul mode would pop on and off almost evertime I shifted from drive to reverse while plowing. I didn't want it on, it just kept poping on and off. Thought maybe the button was stuck, but it moved like normal. My other thought was there is a loose connection in the shifter or column causing it to go on and off.
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06 F550 w/5r110w. Truck and trans runs great then trans acts like it was shifted into neutral, rpm's flare up and if you don't get your foot out of it the trans will re engage aggressively. Changed the speed sensor on the rear axle, there are no codes, had a trans shop change the filters and fluids then change out all of the solenoids. They tell me its not a trans problem.
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Well it's been an ongoing problem with my 4r100, but last week it all come to a point. Reverse delay is getting to near 10seconds then abruptly engages. My 1-2 shift is so soft I have to look down and see my tach to make sure it shifted up. I now have trans squeal during ever shift including OD. Also have a loud screech that gets louder the faster you go, BUT the old girl is still moving the truck and oddly the fluid isn't burnt looking or smells burnt? That's one has me puzzled...
So Tuesday after work I'm pulling the transmission (in the driveway) and bringing it to the shop Thursday. Getting a billet steel converter, having all the planetary gears upgraded to six and four pinion, one way sprag will now be solid steel instead of the plastic one Ford put there, all the bearings will be upgraded to Torrington, I'll have the 45 roller sprag bearing upgrade as well as the 17 roller for reverse, I'm going with Borg Warner and Kolen steels, new solenoid pack.
I'm having the pump pump machined and sonnex upgrades done to it, spiral snap ring on OD piston, case will be machines not hand resurfaced, reverse gear plastic washers will be removed and the gear is getting machined for a Torrington bearing and steel spacer, clutch drum will be machined for a 360 spiral clip, locking snap ring on the OD piston, center support will have some machine work done to it, and I'm having the forward drum plug removed and the hole will be tapped for a steel plug.
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I have just switched from GM to Ford and have a new F250 4x4 XLT. I am wondering how to engage 4 wheel drive correctly. I have the manual shifter and the manual lock hubs. However during my test drive I shifted the lever into 4H and 4L and it seemed to engage just fine. Do I need to lock my hubs as well? Or if im just in a wet spot can i just shift into 4h without locking my hubs? I know if I am in anything serious I need to lock the hubs. I just want to be sure before I get into a tricky situation. My 02 GM all i had to do was push a button and it shifted automatically.
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I have a 2001 f250 7.3 powerstroke it is an automatic. It has the switch on the dash to engage the 4 wheel drive. When I turn the switch nothing happens.. no lights come on or anything. it has warren locking hubs. What my problem is???
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I recently purchased a 2003 F350 FX4 Dually with the 7.3L Diesel. It has locking hubs and electric shift in the cab.
I have had locking hubs before that you had to engage to shift into 4 wheel drive and I have had trucks without locking hubs.
My truck didn't come with a manual, so I am looking for instructions for the proper use of this system.
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I have an 01 f250 with a 4r100. Trans has not been slipping at all and yesterday it started a rough shift between 1st and 2nd. (3-4K Rpms) At the same time 4th gear stopped engaging. Shifts out of 3rd but does not go into 4th. I can hit my od button and it will shift back into 3rd and start pulling. Still no slipping just doesn't want to change 1-2 or engage 4th. I have done a full trans fluid change including new filter and tc. Old fluid looked fine with no metal flakes or garbage in it. So all new fluid still same problem. I was thinking of changing my shift solenoid.
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I have a 08 6.4l F250SD. At 127k miles, it has been a great truck. All service has been performed by dealer. When I shift from Park into drive there is a 3-5 second delay, and when it drops into drive the truck rocks. Once driving there are no shift issues. Into reverse there are no issues.
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2015 F-250 4X4 CC gas truck. 6R140 Transmission..
My truck has 6500 miles on it and since day one when I put my shifter in (D) there is a 3-4 sec delay in the transmission to engage every morning when I start out, rest of the time there is no delay even when the truck sits all day at work (about 9 hours). I have read in 2011 (?) that the transmission was loosening it's prime and would cause this problem, so how it's got me thinking.
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Recently purchased a 99 F250 SD w/ V-10 Triton which purrs like a kitten and drives great until I turn it off and then re-start. It has trouble re-starting and then when started and put in drive...won't go anywhere. Zero power. Oddly, in reverse it goes. Getting decent flow from exhaust. No vacuum leaks I can find. No check engine light on either. Strange.
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I recently purchased a 00 F250 psd 4x4. Other than doing all of the fixes it needs to make it ride better I have been questioning the trucks "get up and go" and the EXTREMELY sensitive skinny pedal. Truck seems to pull very hard and puts out some black smoke under hard throttle but nothing like the really tuned trucks I have seen. But the skinny is so sensitive its hard to drive under 40mph in 3rd and once it gets up to 55 or so its real sharp getting on and off the throttle. Trans shifts great, TC locks and unlocks, truck runs awesome IMO but just a bit harsh. Is there a way to find out if it was tuned prior to me buying it other than inspecting for a chip, or is this the way they are and I just have to get used to it more...?
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I just purchased a F250 Gasser with the 6.2. I made sure to get it with the 4.30 rear to babl to tow a little better when i upsize the tires a little. Where I can find the drive output ratio from the transmission?
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I have a 2005 f250 super duty turbo diesel 6.0 automatic. The problem I'm having is, when I engage the tow/haul button the transmission doesn't down shift unless I feather the pedal. Also the engine will overheat at times. I've replaced the thermostat, but that's all so far.
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I have a 93 f250 4x4 with a 5.8 liter with 69 thousand miles.. the problem I'm having Is if I put It in drive it won't shift out of first but if I manually shift it from 1st to 2nd to drive it works but shifts very hard. Sometimes it will shift in drive but It shifts really hard. I don't know what It could be. We just put the transmisson back into the truck due to having to change a broken flywheel. It just don't Seem like it has any power...
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The tranny is shifting really hard between 2 and 3 if I feather the throttle it can be a little less of a jolt but still enough none the less iv never done a filter and fluid change as I just got it it has 235000 miles 99 v10 super duty 4x4....
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Recently I have had an issue with my auto which was just rebuilt. About 500 kays after i picked it up it shifts dangerously hard and immediately into all gears at around 20-40 mph, converter also locks immediately. The speed sensor in the box was replaced with the rebuild but I'm having it replaced again this thursday just in case.
Just for the record I cooked it on the beach a while back, the speed sensor was replaced with the rebuild as it was doing the above, the od light also flashes when this occurs, before and after the rebuild.
Prior to cooking it never had an issue.
What could be causing it? I'm starting to worry it cant be fixed, have done a google and tried a couple of things mentioned. Code says wiring issue associated with speed sensor in box.
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Still having issues with the transmission on my 05 F350. I posted before that it would take a few seconds to go into drive or reverse. The fixes were to change filters and do hot flush. I had the dealer do a hot flush, and then I put about 1000 miles on it. That didn't seem to fix anything, so I went back in and asked for more info. They did not change the filters. I thought they did, but found out they did not after the fact, so I decided to change the filters myself.
The interior filter was easy to change. The fluid was clean, and the magnet had shavings on it but nothing that seemed extraordinary. The exterior filter is impossible to get off. I reviewed posts on here before trying, so first was the impact wrench, then the pipe wrench, then the pipe wrench with a block wedged in to keep the thing from bending, still no luck. The cast nut broke off well before the pipe wrench came out of the drawer. How to get that thing off. I read on here somewhere that no fluid goes through that until 180 degrees, is that correct?
Scanguage says it rarely goes over 160, except for last evening when I was stuck in traffic. It went to 187, with ECT at 208. During this period, traveling under 40 most of the time, the transmission was shifting erratically, to the point I wanted to pull over and allow it to cool down. But traffic broke free, speed went up, and temps went down. Shifting returned to normal, except when trying to engage drive or reverse. The 3-4 second delay persists at any temp, and there doesn't seem to be any slippage. Just delayed and sometimes hard engagements. I'm at a loss for whats wrong.
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I have a 2002 ford f250 with the 7.3l diesel. I recently installed a ts performance chip. On my pcm. And after i first tried all the different stages I didn't like how my transmission was shifting hard. So I contacted the manufacturer and he told me they could reprogram the chip for smoother shifting. So I removed the pcm and removed the chip. But when I went to reinstall the pcm I bent one of the pins on the pcm some how.
So I took it back out and straightened the pin with pliers . i reinstalled it back in the truck. Only to find when I reattached the battery cable I have no power to anything ignition ,horn, lights,Cigarette lighter etc. So my question is if the pcm is bad, or not contacting properly due to the pin being messed up. would that have anything to do with the lights and horn and all that? I suspect its the gem bsm or Vsm. Whichever one my truck has. But really not sure because everything worked fine just 20 min b4.
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