Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Transmission Sensor Malfunction When Cold Outside
Jan 10, 2017
Today I ran into a person I use to work with and was informed he had bought almost the same truck as mine. He also informed me that his has spent most of the winter in the shop. Reason being he claimed the transmission had a sensor that malfunctioned when it's cold out. This sensor lets the truck turn over but it blocks the truck from starting. Now it has got to 10 below zero only once this winter so far, my truck is kept outside, no problem yet.
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I have a 2000 ford f350 7.3l with a auto transmission(4r100) and I have had problems with it . It started a while back when the transmission is cold like in the morning when I put it in drive it acts like when you don't push the cluch in on a standard when coming to a stop kind like it's bucking and this only happens when it's cold when it's nice and warmed it's fine so I changed the whole transmission and put a billet torque converter and I'm still having the same problem can it be a sensor or something electrical ?
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2001 F250. I have had issues on other trucks where you get a funny-acting speedometer with a code that comes up as VSS (sensor on top of the rear differential)....And it shifted exact same way.
My new truck speedometer is totally fine and the ABS is on with codes:
C1158 Left front speed sensor coherency malfunction
C1155 Left front speed sensor input circuit malfunction
Shifts about the same way on the trucks with bad VSS.
Question is will a bad front speed sensor affect the way the trans shifts? Doesn't happen all the time. If you go slow it shifts smooth. If you pull off fast a barely noticeable jerk from 1-2 and 2-3....
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I have a 2001 F250 V10,
So the truck drove fine yesterday had zero issues... I used my auto start as I do every morning in this cold weather, get into the truck and shift from park to drive and its like it does nothing. I can free rev in N,D,1,2. Reverse works great.
I tried switching from 4wd to 2wd, no change. Reverse works just fine. No noises, codes or anything, just doesn't want to engage...
I am assuming I have a 4R100. Could something electrical cause this? I am thinking its mechanical, but hoping someone has ran into this before.
Literally no way I would have known the trans was going bad... It's always worked fine. Tranny fluid is full, I tried unplugging the battery waiting and plugging back in, no dice.
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My '01 7.3 is having some transmission problems, My O/D light is flashing. Trying to go after stopping at a light is a difficult, it drives very sluggish, like its not in overdrive. Scanned it and got three codes P0732, P0720, P0503. I replaced the ABS/VSS on the differential and the problem still exist.
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My truck has a bit of an interesting trait. Unless it's just about freezing, my transmission is just about always at operating temperature. If it's 50*F outside and I start the truck, the Trans temp is smack dab in the middle. If it's 30*F outside it starts just a little above cold then is "warmed up" when I drive it down my short street block, which ain't right.
All the rest of the time, it's always reading middle of the bar temperature. My old 5.4L never did this. My 7.3L does. Best I can tell is it's a fault in the temperature sensor for the transmission. I don't have a scan gauge yet to get the readings but will be getting one. Just need to know where the sensor is at so I can have a starting point.
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Got the truck 2 months ago and it only happened 3 times; always on a cold engine.
2 times were on my street at low speed just out of my driveway. It's like the engine shuts down for a while and maybe downshifts too. Feels like someone is stepping on the brakes for a second and then all is back to normal.
Last time I was getting out of a restaurant and accelerating hard to get up to speed on a 70km/h road. The downshift happened while I was going almost 70 but still in low speed so the braking effect was severe enough to throw me forward. Once again everything was fine the next second.
I'm not sure if it's the transmission downshifting or the engine cutting; maybe even the ABS kicking in for some reason. It happens too fast and too rarely to be sure. My feeling from what I remember is that the truck is downshifting and I'm feeling the braking effects from compression. 6.2 engine.
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2014 F250 automatic- 35k miles... just started having an issue. Noticed when the transmission is cold, the shift from 2nd to 3rd is almost delayed. It's enough of a pause you can feel it then it shifts. Weird thing is it only does for the first 3 stop signs leaving my house. Once the trans starts getting some temperature to it, it shifts perfect. I checked the fluid while hot and it showed a little low. I drove it after adding fluid but will have to wait till it's cold to see if it's any better... Think it was the fluid? But why just 2nd to 3rd gear only?
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I have a 14 f350, 6.2... Takes a few seconds to go into gear when cold, trans is fine otherwise, and I don't want to waste the dealers time if this is the way these things are:
When its warm and I put it in drive it goes right in .. .
When cold and only sometimes, it takes up to three seconds to go in gear .. .
It has 7000 miles on it .. .
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So I just replace my Cat. Converter with all new sensors in them. I just replaced my spark plugs. (I'm knocking out these check engine light problems) and I think I'm getting close to the root as to why these other parts went bad. Why my o2 sensor would be stuck on "lean" ....
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My Bank 2 Sensor 2 oxygen sensor is faulty and I need to replace it. The guys at the parts store were pretty certain it is downstream driver's side, but I just want to make sure before I PB Blasted and removed it. 2008 F250 SD v10 ....
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I've got a 99 F-250 6.8L V10 manual 4WD with no speedometer or odometer. The ABS and MIL lights are on. Code is P0500 - VSS malfunction.
This started when the previous owner hooked up some large LED backup lights to the factory wiring. Something smoked under the dash. He then moved them to a relay-switched +12V feed. He reported that the backup light fuse did not blow.
Ive tested the backup light fuse and the recently replaced VSS. Fuse is good and the VSS tests ok for Ohms and gives AC voltage when the tone ring turns. I pulled the fuse panel, GEM, and PCM. There's no visible damage anywhere there. I'm stumped. Tomorrow, I'll dig for any melted wiring under the dash....
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On my 2006 F-250 truck, the speedometer is acting funky. It's like it stuck on the deceleration and now at a complete stop or idle it shows a speed of anywhere from 40-60 mph. It does change and go up and down, as I drive but it's now just off by 30-60 mph. Is this an electronic setting/calibration that one can do?
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Purchased my 2012 6.7 about 3 weeks ago. Driving yesterday the CEL light came on. I took and had the code read and it was determined that EGT sensor # 4 was bad. Also how far can it be driven before it leaves you stranded since the closest dealer is 35 miles away.
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I can't seem to get the engine temp to middle range on the marker, but yet my heater blows "to me" hot air. Even while sitting in idle for extended amounts of time I cannot get it to "operating" temperature. I would think if my thermostat was stuck open my heater would blow either cold or slightly warm air. I have the 5.4L engine with knn air filter and no cats.
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I have a 2009 F 250 5.4L, couple days ago it acted as if the alternator had gone out and killed the battery. I swapped batteries with a coworker to get the truck home and when I hooked the battery back up, the battery and the alternator both tested fine. I've put the voltmeter on periodically and everything seems to be fine and all electronics are working except for the radio. I did a light test on the fuse and it showed a bad fuse so I tested the fuse and it tested fine and I put a new fuse in and tried the light test again and it failed. What the problem could be?
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So I had an ABS light going on and off on my 05 250, finally got it read, and the computer said right front speed sensor. I changed it and the light stayed on all the time then. I had someone plug it in and drive it and the left front sensor was reading nice and flat on the graph, while the right front was spiking all over the place. I then assumed I got a bad sensor. I changed it one more time and now the light still won't go off. Now what?!
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Any way to disable the reverse sensors by maybe adding a switch to turn off power so it does not constantly go off while plowing and the sensors are snow covered? i thought maybe by just unplugging the switch would do it, but that did not work. truck is an 02 diesel with auto trans.
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I have been trying to find a new sensor after my truck popped a P2285 code. I can't find ICP sensor at any auto parts store. I found this but it was labeled as a fuel pressure sensor on RockAuto: More Information for Standard Motor Products ICP103... Is this the same thing?
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My engine light came on a friend of mine did a scan and came up with o2s12 showing low voltage.we need to know which side and location of sensor..the truck is a 2005 ford f250 super duty 5.4l.
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I was driving my truck and my power windows quite working I figured it was a fuse so I wasn't to excited about it I stopped and unloaded some scrap metal and then when I started my truck back up I couldn't shift it out of park unless I unplugged the brake pedal sensor or turned the key just out of the off position then shifted to neutral then started then I could put it in gear and go so I got home and started looking checked all my fuses all good then I realize the windshield wipers are not working either and the door beeper, if you have your keys in the ignition also isn't working the horn, isn't working the lights on the window and lock switches isn't working either so I'm kinda lost now gonna barrow a relay tester in the am but I'm kinda thinking maybe the computer ?? For all this to happen at one to,e doesn't make any sense to me that's a lot to all go in one shot it makes more sense to me
No horn
No power windows
No accessory lights on the window and lock switches
No wipers
No buzzer/beeper (like when you open the door and leave the keys in the ignition
Won't shift out of park without doing it with the engine off or the brake pedal position sensor unplugged
I've gone thru with a test light and got power to the fuses for everything but still nothing
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