Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Transmission In Neutral When Continue From A Stop Sign
Feb 24, 2016
I have a 99 f350 V10 gas dually dumper. Today while driving I stopped at a stop sign. When I went to continue the transmission seemed to be in neutral, then it caught and I drove through the intersection. It 2-3 seconds later disengaged again. I pulled over. When I attempted to put it in park it grinded. (Bad enough I just turned off the key). I checked the fluid. It was close to full and red. While in park I restarted. Truck started fine. I shifted into drive and nothing. It was like it was in neutral still. I attempted to put in park again and more grinding. Also while in park it does not hold the truck from rolling. After getting towed home I checked the tranny fluid again and it was still looking ok. I drained the transfer case also. The fluid in there was near black an appeared to have a metallic look. Does this problem seem to be just my tc or tranny issues also?
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I have a 2002 F350 with the 7.3 diesel. I have had this truck since it had 30K miles on it and it now had 90K miles. It has been trouble free minus new pads and batteries. I recently changed the fuel filter and used a Donaldson filter. In the last week while driving the truck just mysteriously shuts off when I slow down for a stop sign. The only lights on the dash is the red battery light, and it fires right back up. I believe it has the original CPS in it as I have never changed it. Do you think this is the CPS going out or something else? I was wondering if the Donaldson fuel filter has anything to do with it?
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2012 f250 SC xl 6.2 - Is it normal to hear a single clunk sound on occasion when accelerating from a stop sign? Doesn't happen all the time mind you and I don't ever remember hearing it in the past.
Now just today, while backing up my driveway, as soon as I started the reverse motion, I heard the same clunk. Sounds like metal to metal and comes from the rear of the truck.
Only 7000 miles on her and I treat her like a baby...anything I should be concerned with?
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I need to solve tranny problem, it started out a while back, would not shift back into drive after stopping at stop sign (after driving fine for about 20 miles) thought maybe dirty filter so did fluid and filter change seemed to work for a while then started again noticed it was mostly after using cruise control, but u joints were very bad, so replaced 2 of the 3 and worked fine for about a thousand highway miles, then got really bad. Now when I check the tranny fluid cold and /or hot it is way up on the dipstick. Took to ford dealer in ladoga, lied and said no speed sensor codes, but list on the paper he gave me had all kinds of abs and a p500 code.
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I was driving on the highway last night when it was like somebody dropped my transmission into neutral. I was cruising at 50mph slight hill. There was no noise or any thing. Now I have nothing.
It's a 2005 f350 4x4 automatic
I can only assume I'll be needing a new transmission but I am hopeful of a small problem...
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06 F550 w/5r110w. Truck and trans runs great then trans acts like it was shifted into neutral, rpm's flare up and if you don't get your foot out of it the trans will re engage aggressively. Changed the speed sensor on the rear axle, there are no codes, had a trans shop change the filters and fluids then change out all of the solenoids. They tell me its not a trans problem.
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I own a 2002 Acura TL- car has 100K, i am the original owner- always maintained etc.. I am having problems with the transmission- car was in accident back in 2005, and tranny was replaced..Anyways, when i back car out and then hit it in drive, car goes to neutral. also when i drive, approach stop sign, and then accelerate, car goes to netural- dealer says need new tranny- cost is 2400 plus tax.... so i was thinking of doing that but now they say there is a leak with the oil pump- i said i dont see oil leaking they say its hitting the pan, could go in a month or in a year- cost 1200 to fix.. then he said the brake lines will need to be changed evenually- again 1000 or more.....ball joints- they quoated me 625...
So they say they will give me 500 bucks for a trade in- this car is in really good conditiion except for the supposed problems they found..If they car wouldnt have these problems i would get the tranny fixed- but i dont know what to do- ball joints dont have to be replaced- they hvae a little play.. the oil leak? I mean i have a 2000 accord that the dealer says is leaking- my private mechanic says all accords leak.
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I have a 2000 ford f350 7.3l with a auto transmission(4r100) and I have had problems with it . It started a while back when the transmission is cold like in the morning when I put it in drive it acts like when you don't push the cluch in on a standard when coming to a stop kind like it's bucking and this only happens when it's cold when it's nice and warmed it's fine so I changed the whole transmission and put a billet torque converter and I'm still having the same problem can it be a sensor or something electrical ?
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97 f350 5.8L E4OD Transmission. This truck will not downshift when you come to a stop. You must manually shift it all the way through and then it does fine. What is causing this issue? It will kick down into passing gear. What is wrong?
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Was driving my 2000 Ford F-350 stopped transmission would not move no more there was no noises no nothing just stopped pulling no gears nothing only Park works...
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I have a 2000 ford f350 7.3l with a auto transmission(4r100) and I have had problems with it . It started a while back when the transmission is cold like in the morning when I put it in drive it acts like when you don't push the cluch in on a standard when coming to a stop kind like it's bucking and this only happens when it's cold when it's nice and warmed it's fine so I changed the whole transmission and put a billet torque converter and I'm still having the same problem can it be a sensor or something electrical ?
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2016 F250 6.7L 4x4
I getting some tranny noise when towing on incline from a complete stop. When I slowly press the gas pedal I hear grinding noise. If i press the gas more my truck starts to move and the noise goes away. It doesnt happen all the time. This started right after my 1000 miles recommended break in before towing per ford manual.
My truck now has 2800 miles and the grinding noise occurs intermediately regular driving. Mostly on steep incline or decline. I haven't taken it to the dealer yet because I cant recreate the issue all the time.
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How do I remove the neutral safety switch? I bought a replacement and am having trouble removing it.
After shifting into neutral, I disconnected the connector, then unbolted the two screws. Now I can't get the little white ring that connects the lever coming from the transmission to the actual switch. I have tried prying it off with a screwdriver, spraying a little PB Blaster to lubricate it a little. Nothing will get it off it seems.
I'm leaving to go back up to school tomorrow afternoon, and I need to have this fixed before I leave.
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I have a 2005 ford f250 6.0 I was driving back home from a interview and my truck died at a stop light it would crank but no start I tried replacing the stc fitting didn't work so the I replaced the ipr still didn't work bought a new hpop still didn't work I'm lost at this point I have low pressure oil pump is working new icp, what is going on?
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i have an 04 f250 5.4 4x4 250k miles+ ...the truck has been acting weird lately. I has 0 power...i went to pass an 18 wheeler today at about 15 mph and gave it about half throttle...well it held first gear till about 5 grand then slammed into 2nd...It just has 0 umph ... it wont even consistanly pick up speed at half throttle or over..the rpms will stop ...then pick up...then stop...it always accelerated smoothly....it is bogging really bad...it was downshifting into 3rd today on little overpass hills that it NEVER does that on...something is telling me torque converter BTW no codes and no flashing overdrive light
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My 05 f250 v10 runs rough at points and sometimes quits when driving. I find it too that I can't rev it in park or neutral and sometimes when it is cold I can. I was wondering if it was a tps or something with the intake...
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I just bought a 2014 F350 from copart and its about to arrive in florida on a transporter. There is no key and no power (flood damaged) and wheels are turned sideways. I am having the transported meet me at a ford dealer so I can get the key made to remove steering column lock. Once I have this, any way to manually select neutral to take it out of park and roll it off the truck.
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2006 F250 5.4l 4x4, long box, quad cab
Current issue: No overdrive / slipping into neutral / rough going into reverse
Codes: I don't have exact code but will get (p0755)... but shows shifting solenoid B malfunction ( this is the OD/Reverse one) check engine light on and tow light blinking
So whats been done: shifting solenoid B (OD/Reverse) was replaced (used part) inspected valve body and o rings... all good... worked for a week... then exact same issue. Transmission showed no signs of gear damage, oil looks good
Next: Replaced shifting solenoid B again (new one) and transmission wiring harness. Still no change, same codes. Seems to be having a communication issue between transmission and PCM? However continuity of wires and connectors seems ok.
One more piece of interesting info. Every-time before the truck slips I hear clicking coming from the fuse/relay panel under dash drivers side. No clicking no slipping... however never goes into OD at any time.
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I have a 2013 F250 with a 6.2 L. While driving the vehicle the exhaust sounds nice and throaty. When I put the truck in neutral and rev it, it's quiet, you can barely hear it. Is this normal?
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My '05 (134k, rwd, V10) has had an occasional issue with stalling when going into neutral. The normal idle speed in park or neutral is 700. In drive or reverse it dips down to 350 or so and then evens out at 500. The stalling is not all the time, perhaps 2 out of 10 shifts. It is slightly worse with the A/C running. Every time it stalls, it records a P0506 error which I then clear out with my ScanGauge II.
I have done some research and have replaced the air filter (super dirty), fuel filter (not sure on how old) and cleaned the MAF tonight. For the MAF, I pulled it from the air tube and gave it a bunch of squirts of MAF cleaner. I did this 3 times letting it dry in between cleanings. I have run a bottle of SeaFoam through it, as well. The idle seems to be very smooth and it pulls my 7k travel trailer without issue. That did get a little better with the new air filter and fuel filter.
I went for a ride tonight and the problem persists. I'm taking it in to have the A/C recharged next week and will have the shop diagnose it. I came across this post which details my issue exactly. The steps are to reprogram the PCM and TCM, and possibly replace the throttle body. Is the reprogram something an independent shop can/should do?
P0506 idle lower than expected on 05 ford f350 v10
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So I've worked on this A/C for 3 years, I don't drive this truck very much or often, partly because the A/C doesn't blow cold. Its a 99 f250 7.3 ... Here's what I've done, first it was low on Freon so I added some and it got cold, take off driving and it gets hot. After some research I check the clutch air gap and pull a washer. This changes nothing, I put a valve on the heater core, so I could manually shut it off just in case.
This year I replace the compressor because the clutch isn't staying engaged when I revved it up in neutral. I went ahead and replaced the drier and Orifice Tube, the orifice tube was clogged up. So I start recharging the system, and I get 2 3/4 cans in and its blowing cold, low 50's high 40's its 75 degrees outside. The gauges read 35 low and 300 high, I'm a little confused cause it was suppose to hold 41oz from what I looked up but ok.
I rev the motor just to check everything out, the low side heads down for a second then starts going up, the high side starts going up and doesn't stop. The high side goes all the way till it hit the high pressure switch 450 wow. I'm thinking its over charged, I let it idle and the compressor kicks on and the low is around 50 and the high is at 350. So I rev it up again 1800 rpms or so, and the low side drops down and so does the high side. Except this time the low side drops down to 15 " I had the low pressure switch unhooked and looped" and the high side around 225.
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