Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Transmission Temperature Sender Test Port Leaking
Aug 28, 2013
So I had an issue with the trans temp sender leaking out of the test port where it's installed. My first clue was a smell of ATF, then a high trans temp, and finally many, many spots on the driveway. Anyway, I discovered that either I lost the o-ring for the sender or it didn't come with one. Regardless, I got an o-ring and its sealed for the most part. There is still a drop or two under the truck after it has been running. How can I fully get rid of this issue? Would some RTV thread sealer do the trick?
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With the colder temperature, I noticed the temperature for the transmission is not getting up to normal as quickly as before. Yesterday I switched to gauge mode and it showed 145 degrees after 20 miles of driving at an outside temperature of 42 degrees. What the minimum temperature should be? It's not showing a check engine light and shifts good.
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My truck has a bit of an interesting trait. Unless it's just about freezing, my transmission is just about always at operating temperature. If it's 50*F outside and I start the truck, the Trans temp is smack dab in the middle. If it's 30*F outside it starts just a little above cold then is "warmed up" when I drive it down my short street block, which ain't right.
All the rest of the time, it's always reading middle of the bar temperature. My old 5.4L never did this. My 7.3L does. Best I can tell is it's a fault in the temperature sensor for the transmission. I don't have a scan gauge yet to get the readings but will be getting one. Just need to know where the sensor is at so I can have a starting point.
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I am not positive where it could be but I have a good bit of oil on the transmission (i think) i was trying to replace the strarter and noticed it. Where the possible leak could be from? No oil on the ground under the truck.
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I have a jump seat in my 08 f350 and am looking for a center console. My interior is black and tan and the jump seat is all black.
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My transmission cooling line is leaking. It leaks where it connects to the radiator. Im not sure how I go about removing the connection from the radiator. It is tough to tell from the rust on the connection weather or not I can use a wrench on it. I have read here that there are cooling lines in this part of the radiator for the transmission. Is it serviceable or do I need a new radiator. I dont want to touch it until I know what I'm looking at.
05 F250 5.4L 4x4
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I have been trying to hunt down the issue with my 4wd. I have thus far done the following:
- Check and clean all fuses under dash
- Checked the underhood relays
- Check for proper operation at switch
- Opened relays under how and manually switch them, transfer case motor and lights on dash work as they should.
So my though is that I have power going everywhere. Something is not sending the signal to the relays. I would narrow this down to the 4wd control module behind the glove box. Is there any way to test this for sure? I'm about ready to just buy on and slap it in. Spending way too much time on this issue.
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I posted this in the 6.0 section, but I thought maybe it should have been here since it's not really about the engine.
I bought a Kiwi2 BT OBD adapter and the Torque Pro app. Adapter does not power up when connected, key on or off.
Checked fuse #12 visually, looked good.
Verified power to booth the lighter plug and 12v accessory outlet.
Verified that the fuse I was pulling killed to lighter plug when I removed it.
I have not actually put a meter on the OBD pin because I am at work and have no meter. I did, however, connect the adapter to a co-worker's Tacoma and it powered up and I was able to pair it with my phone.
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So this is my major problem, leaving for a camping trip tomorrow afternoon. It's just 15 miles away, easy flat drive. What has happened is the trans line coming out of the bottom of radiator is leaking next to the fitting about an 1/8 ' out, So I can't cut off and splice in hose for the trip. I worked on it for about an hour, rusted on, tried some heat and now have some PB Blast on it and all I am doing is starting to round off the head of fitting. Is there any way to bypass this just to get the camper to campground and then get to a shop while we are gone Don't care if I have to splice and cut, will get new lines later.
2004 f250SD 5.4 83000miles
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So my 2000 f350 is leaking transmission fluid from the cooler line. It goes to the rear of the transmission, but where does it go to from there?
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As luck would have it I'm leaving out in the morn for 600 miles , Noticed a nail in my L/F tire yesterday went too Goodyear they pilled the tire patched it inside.. Then this morn went to fuel up my ABS light stayed on .. Did this last yr. went off after a few days but since the tire was pulled maybe its a bad connection ??? ..Jut want to be sure and scan codes
I want to scan it now to check and reset any codes But looked under the Drivers side dash can not find the OBD connection port looked on Passenger side nothing there either.. Looked under hood around fuse box did not see anything that kind of looked like a port with a cap I'd assume they cap them if under the hood .. Its a 05 S/D 6.0 locate this OBD11 port
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New to me truck has 80k on it, it's leaking at the bell housing. Pulled the inspection plate and it's definitely red stinky automatic transmission fluid. Back of the torque converter is clean.
Ford warranty has run out, however I do have an aftermarket warranty on the truck. Trans temp isn't above normal or running hot.
I'm a very mechanically inclined engineer, I do not work on cars for a living, but I have replaced an input shaft seal on a 4wd transmission before. That's my best guess as to what's leaking. Is this a common issue?
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I just changed transfer case fluid on my father's F-350 for the first time in 13 years. (over 230k). Removed fill plug first and fluid gushed out of the fill hole unexpectedly. Did not have catch pan ready, so made a mess. I thought it was just over filled form the factory, but too much was coming out to be simple overfill. Almost 2 qt came out of the fill plug.
Did some google search and found many Ford trucks have failed transmission output shaft seal and transmission fluid leaks out to transfer case, causing transfer case to overfill. I am yet to check transmission fluid level, but considering how much came out of it that probably is the case.
Now, how bad of the problem this really is? Will overfilled transfer case cause some serious problem? 4x4 is rarely used (once or twice a year in winter) on this truck and from what I understand transfer case doesn't really do anything in 2WD other than just passing output from transmission through.
There are no fluid leaking outside and repairing the seal would be a too much of work for me.
Also changed rear differential fluid for the first time and I was surprised how clean the fluid was. There were thin layer of black sticky residue (sludge?) covering everything, but the fluid itself looked clean and no visible metal shavings. I guess that is why Ford said it does not require change under normal condition.
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So I just bought a 2003 f250 v10 and I've plugged in my code reader and it couldn't get any info, so I took it to auto zone and they got an error code. I took a test lite to each little connection on the port with the ignition on and only got power to some of the metal connections on the port. So I'm wondering if all the little connections should have power? If so where should I start to look to find the problem?
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Am i correct in starting to look into why I can't hook a scanner or Torque Pro bluetooth up to my truck and starting with blown Cig lighter fuse? (Cig lighter doesnt work, power port does)
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I have a 03 F-250, 5,4L / AT trans, FX4 4X4 with power Windows/Locks/ Mirrors. I recently had a problem with my windows and radio wouldn't work. When I would start the truck the windows wouldn't move and the radio wouldn't work. (Noticed the clock wouldn't even light up indicating no power). I was reading on here about the battery saver relay could be the problem and found out it was, so that is fixed. However, before I found this website I went to hook up my truck to my code reader/ diagnostic computer and it gave me the error code of no power from the OBD-II port. I made sure everything was fine on the code readers side by using on a different vehicle. I recently installed a trailer brake controller but that uses a cable/plug under the center of the dash.
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Wife took truck out and turned around after going less then a mile, saying it was running very bad. We got this truck about two months ago at a state vehicle auction. It was a state used truck, 145,000 miles, 05 Ford F350, ext cab and 8' bed. Anyway at first I thought it was valve tap until research said an exhaust manifold. With a fog machine in rear exhaust pipe we confirmed it was leaking and replaced the exhaust manifold. Figured it was probably a good time to replace spark plugs too. Took truck for a ride and she still buck and farted.
Got a code machine and got P0171 and P0174. Couldn't find a vacuum leak, but your could hear the air being sucked in. went to local parts store, guys couldn't find leak, but they said truck sounded like a steam machine. today I made a homemade smoke machine and smoke came from air intake, figured the gaskets were bad. The pictures show what I saw when I took the gaskets off. The port that has melted is the same port were the exhaust manifold was leaking from. Am in deep "doo-doo". What caused this?
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I finally got around to installing a transmission temp sensor in our '06 F250, and I have noticed today that it seems to be at 180 degrees regularly driving around town unloaded. It has been around 80-85 degrees outside today. We just got this truck about a month ago, so I'm still getting used to its little quirks. On our old 7.3 with a 4R100, it wasn't at all unusual to see 180 on a day like today around town. Is this normal on a TorqShift?
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My 2000 f250 7.3 4x4 with a 4r100 tranny. I was towing my boat home and noticed the temperature rising from roughly 140 all the way to 160 over a short distance. As soon as I pulled up to the house I noticed I was dumping my transmission fluid. Went to a mechanic and he fixed the leaking on the transmission by replacing some seals and changed out my rear main seal while the tranny was out.
I also went ahead and replaced the torque converter so I would not have to do it in the future. went to pick up my truck and noticed that on the way home the temperature was still rising. On a normal day here in Texas my tranny temperature was about 125 While towing it would creep up to about 143. Now, just getting home it got up to 180. What could be causing the temp to run this high and keep climbing?
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Chasing a problem for sometime now with my early 99 F350 auto 7.3 w/ 134K. This problem seems to only happen when the temperature outside is lower than 20 degrees.
When approaching a hill the truck will lose top end power (2000 RPM and greater) and shudder. Basically, start at 65 and you reach the top and 45. My gauges are all normal, no codes are present, no leaks or other abnormal sounds.
Fuel pressure is good (even under load), passed buzz test, passed CCT test. Is this possibly just the nature of the beast (being cold)? Seems to go away after 30 minutes or more of driving. In the last month, we have:
-changed all fluids and filters, except in tank filters
-sensors replaced: map, ebpv (and tube), IAT, and intake spyder sensor
-boost leak checked
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My truck is a 2000 7.3 doesn't smoke on start up but once it gets to temperature it does. I'm not going through any antifreeze, just oil and it's coming out the exhaust. The truck still runs great starts right up every morning without being plugged in. Any opinions?
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