Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Trans Filter 4R100 - Safety Clip Used To Hold Filter Up?
May 25, 2017
On my previous 1992 F-350, when I serviced the E40D 2WD trans I replaced the filter during a trans service. I read about some filters falling down inside pan causing shifting issues. There is an aftermarket clip sold that holds the filter in the up position and prevents it from falling into pan.
Is the clip also used on the 2WD 4R100? is it the same issue of potentially falling down in pan as was the case with the E40D? Preparing to service my 2003 F-350 2WD 4R100 and install a new filter and want to be sure I have all parts/supplies ready to go.
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So there I was doing a simple oil change and when I took the filter out I noticed the little spring on top, in the center of the big spring (oil filter adapter) cocked to the side with the little plastic piece broken.
does anybody know if I can replace just the oil filter adapter (spring thingy that goes in the middle of the filter when installed) or do I have to replace the whole filter bowl assembly? And if so where would be a good place to get this part?
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Changing tranny fluid/filter today, all has been going great until I went to take the filter o-ring out that didn't come with the filter. It will not come out! made a hook tool out of an old tooth brush like someone on here did, o-ring wont budge. Tried a hook pick, it wont dudge (actually bent the tip on the pick and started to tear the o-ring). Everything is ready to go back together and get filled, but this stupid o-ring will not come out!
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2008 f250 auto
is the trans filter change possible?
i didnt see this in the tech folder and no videos for a 2008
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I used to own a fleet of school buses and I had remote trans filter on all of them. I'd change the filter about every 10K and felt like it really extended my trans life on Allisons. I wanted to put on my SD, so, I had a spare filter block with a 20psi bypass valve, and I used it. Worked out real well mounted to the radiator support, up front--easy access. uses a NAPA 1268 filter. In the picture it looks like the hoses are real close to the AC condenser, but in real life, the are three inches from it.
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After replacing fuel filter, pump relay, and air filter for good measure my 2002 f250 v10 gas engine still wont start. What to do?
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I have an isspro sensor that I need to install on my 4r100. I have it all installed except for the actual sending unit. My question is where is the best place to put it?
I've watched multiple YouTube videos and it seems a lot of people use the test port on the driver side above the linkage. I found out the hard way that it is a very poor choice of location. A lot of people say that the best way is to drop the pan drill a hole and weld in the bung? I was wondering would it be possible to put it on the "out" line on the transmission oil headed to the cooler? 01 f-350 7.3
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Whenever I manually pull my gear selector into first gear it blows one of the 10a fuses (not sure which number). I lose all gauges and accelerator pedal. It's about the fourth fuse from the right on the bottom row.
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My 6.0 powerstroke will not start at all. I changed the rail fuel filter and the oil and oil filter. All oem for caps and filters. But the fuel filter in the engine bay is stuck. I didn't change the filter and I don't think I put diesel on the o ring to lube it. Could this be why it's not starting. I tried using starting fluid aswell no good
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Do my 2012 F250 6.7 liter Powerstroke diesel has a cabin air filter? I have looked everywhere I could think of and am unable to find one. Does this mean it doesn't have one?
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How often in miles (mostly highway and city) would you change the following:
1.Baldwin spin on fuel filter added with hutch mod
2. Napa diy 6637 air filter mod with no sleeve over it, just the paper element
3. Stock fuel bowl filter after having added a pre-filter (previously mentioned in #1)
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Just had my 2005 F250 a few weeks and the 'check air filter' warning came on
Checked the filter, it looks fine, hasn't come off...it's the cylindrical one.
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Is this the same thing as the regen? Got it for the first time yesterday at 775 miles. Just curious. On a related note, I've tried to run around town some with 5th and 6th locked out (speeds of around 55-60 on a regular basis, running about 2300-2500 rpms) to try to run this process...am I doing it wrong?
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Here within the next couple weeks, i am wanting to do some routine maintenance. right now on my list is just an oil change along with the fuel filter.
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First 11,000 miles on this 2015 F-350 6.7 diesel was a love affair last 2,000 miles I hate the damn thing it has been in the shop three times in the last month. Exhaust filter over loaded drive to clean. Will not clean while towing a load gets to limp mode. What do I do leave trailer on side of road in order to regen and then go back to pick it up?
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We have been having near zero temps for several days and it occurred to me that there may be some amount of water in the water separator in the rail mounted fuel filter (not enough to send a message, but maybe some amount). I only have 3,000 miles on the truck. So, just wondering if a small amount of water is going to hurt anything in the filter or filter housing if it freezes? Should I drain the filter in freezing weather even though enough water hasn't collected enough to activate a message?
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I have a 6.0 and the air filter light keeps coming on and going off periodically, it seems like the engine is missing bad at times, runs better when tow/haul is on. I am not picking up and codes when I put it on the scanner. I'm possibly thinking injectors.. a friend of mine said something about checking out the "PCM"?
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time to change the tranny fluid and filters on my 2010 F250. nothing in my owners manual about this.
All the parts look up places say I need 2 filters, the internal (FT-180) and an external (FT-145).
Problem is that I cannot seem to find the location of the external filter.
Doing some research, it looks like mid-08 the external was eliminated. So, do I have just the internal or do I have the 2?
Regarding the fluid. If I use the Maxlife dex/merc that says meets the LV spec, will that be ok to mix with whatever is in there now? (assuming LV, but I bought used with 145k on it, no idea if its been serviced before and if so, with what).
Going to check with dealer about the hot flush machine, but I really doubt they have one, and I'm kinda concerned about doing a flush at 150K not knowing the history of it.
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Was going to change my transmission fluid and filter today but when I got under the truck to see what tools I needed, I was not sure I could drop the pan enough to get it off.
I have a 2009 V10 4X4 and the exhaust pipe catalytic are running down each side right under where the transmission pan is. It looks like I can get to all the bolts, but because of the catalytic are right under the flange of the pan on each side, the pan will not be able to drop straight down. It looks like it may drop about 3 inches before it hits the catalytic.
Will that be enough to slide the pan forward or maybe tilt it to get it out? Has anyone dropped the pan on their 4X4 with the 5RW100? Just looking to have someone say I can get it out before I try it.
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Any luck changing the external transmission fluid filter, without breaking it or its piping?
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I got ready to change oil in our '09 5.4 SD and I ran across a passage in the owners manual that stated that if you use a non-Motorcraft oil filter it may cause engine knocking upon start up.
Our truck knocks for a second or so when it starts. Kinda' reminds me of the piston slap that occurred at start up with the old Ford 300 inline 6 cylinder engines of the past after they got some miles on them. Sounds somewhat similar. This engine has 35,000 actual miles so I wouldn't thing excessive wear would be the culprit.
I'm using a Bosch Premium oil filter now after having heard and read how they are superior in their filtering ability.
Just wondered if any of you guys have run into a similar situation and if the Motorcraft filter in fact makes a difference in reference to start up knock
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