Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Trans Cooler Lines In Radiator
Jul 17, 2016
I have Russell fittings and hose coming to hook up my new 6.0 cooler into my 5.4 powered truck. Have a question on the fittings on the bottom of the radiator for the cooler lines, first what is the 3/8" line called? Is it a double flare or what? And second question the female end that's into the plastic tank with the hex head does that unscrew or is it made into the tank? Trying to figure this out so I can overnight two adapters so I can get rid of the fugly hard line completely and use Russell braided line throughout my install
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I have read that the torqshift 5 speed in my 08 f350 he a thermostat in it that opens around 165-170. Is this thermostat to limit/stop the flow to the trans cooler? Does the trans fluid still move freely in the trans (pan, torque converter, valve body, ect), or does the thermostat restrict fluid movement inside the trans?
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I have a 2001 Ford F250 V10 crew cab, I am getting trans fluid in radiator. i have had radiator replaced. it was good for about 3 months.
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I have manual hubs on my truck. Can I pull those vacuum lines and plug the holes?
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How to replace the 2 "drop down" rubber brake lines on a '13 250. They appear to be secured to the bracket that looks like is the bracket that's holding the DEF tank on. And by the quick look without much digging in appears as though I have to take the DEF tank out or significantly loosen it to get at them. I'm no neophyte when it comes to this stuff and will take the DEF tank out of necessity, was just wondering.
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Truck has been neglected for a while so this upgrade/repair I installed Powerstop brake rotor, caliper, bracket and pads. New Timkin wheel bearing, Moog U-Joints, and new inner/outer axle seals. Also replaced all the brake hoses and the remaining original rusty brake lines. About a month before I replaced the failed Auto/Manual vacuum operated locking hubs with Mile Marker units, which do not need the vacuum line, the drivers side was missing. and was letting water into the wheel bearing. So I decided to plug them and remove the vacuum lines from under the hood as well.
If there is interest I can get pictures of the vacuum lines, and what I changed under the hood. That was pretty self explanatory.
Could not find a google search for the thread size of the vacuum nipple in the knuckle. It is a 3/8"-24 fine thread.
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I don't have any leaks at the moment, but after inspecting my vacuum lines they're starting to look brittle and I want to replace them proactively. Is there a kit to do this or should I just cut a section off and take it in to an auto parts store to match the size, and buy it by the foot?
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Out of nowhere my radio started to display a bunch of horizontal thin red lines across the screen on my 15' 250 xlt. Picture is just to show the type of radio I have.
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I plan on replacing the brake lines on our 1999 Ford F-250 Super Duty. The rear line blew out right by the hose, on the framerail. All five lines, all five hoses. What size lines? Looks like front two are 3/16", rear two over the axle are 3/16", and the rear line in the frame is 1/4".
We are removing the bed (2013 bed) to make things easier. I am thinking fuel lines and parking brake cable while the bed is off. I have stainless steel hoses from KLM performance and I am also planning on replacing the rear rubber hoses. Obviously I'm using nickel copper line. There shouldn't even be an option for other brake line.
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2002 4.6 SC with towing package... Transmission cooling lines to radiator leaking. Replacing them? How long does it take, can it be done while working on the ground? Any tricks or problems to look out for?
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My 2006 F350 is starting to heat up on me while at lights and parked while idling. I am going to do a reverse flush with Restore and Restore Plus as per Nylyons guide.
I also plan to switch out the oil cooler and upgrade the EGR.
Engine Oil Cooler Upgraded EGR Cooler Kit Ford 6 0L OHV V8 Diesel Turbo ....
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I have a 08 f250, my abs is giving me nothing but problems, always have, have any of you's ever ran new brake line and by passed the abs?
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I've got a thick layer of black soot-like buildup on the lower passenger side of my intercooler. Just bought the truck (2008 F250, 6.4L, CC, SWB, 4x4, 150K miles).
What would cause a buildup like this on the intercooler?
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My EGR cooler started to leak last week . Right now I have it , the oil cooler and HPOP out for the updated STC fitting. [9-05 Trk. build date with 2 piece fitting]
Yesterday I pulled the turbo apart to check the vanes .Was throwing a 0299 code for some time . It took half the day to separate the Unison ring from the housing,. Cleaned and freed it up. Unison ring shows no wear .but the mating surface of the turbo housing is corroded and not smooth. Shaft end play is fine.Would not put it back on if I were not selling this truck. Truck has 77,000 miles and in great shape.
How critical is having a smooth surface for the unison ring to mate to?
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Recently had an oil cooler EGR cooler replaced. On my first big tow broke down on a major highway. Got it towed to the dealership and diagnosed as a blown out IPR screen. Replace the entire IPR and had no problems the entire trip. A few week later I am sensing the same problems again that i had before the major blowout. Randomly while driving down the highway the truck will stall for a half second or so and then kick back in and continue fine. Seems like the truck loses fuel for a second and then regains itself.
And it's not always at speed either...sometimes just coming to a stop I can feel it. Now this has only happened three times in the past 10 days or so but seems like it needs to get addressed. These symptoms are similar to what I experienced before my major IPR blowout. After it was replaced I didn't have any of the stalling problems but its now happening again. Could I possibly have some gunk in the IPR again that's causing this intermittent problem? Or something else altogether?
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When on my 2-post lift my front brake lines on my '11 4x4 are pulled TIGHT, like stupid tight. It's also dumb that the soft line points UP 'cause it gets tugged down to a brutally tight 180.
I've got the front lift pads under the control arms, too, but near the very rear of the control arms so the axle isn't even dropped out all the way I don't think.
There's a bracket down near the bottom of the coil springs that could just be sectioned/lengthened, which I think would alleviate my issue. I'll be working on this soon.
What manufacturer builds a vehicle that yanks on the brake lines under full suspension droop? Shouldn't this be on an engineer's final checklist before the vehicle is released? Oh wait, they gave that task to Team TTB and Engineering Group TFI Or maybe they gave it to the same Audi team that designed the Allroad with airbags that can be damaged if you don't "lock" them out before lifting the vehicle......
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I have a leak from the oil pan gasket and oil coolant lines. From the research I have done, it looks like I have to lift the motor to change the oil pan gasket. Any way to get this done without lifting the motor??? 2000 f250 5.4 2wd....
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I decided to install a trans cooler since I was servicing the trans and got the pan dropped anyway. But when I cracked open the trans cooler connector(which is totally unnecessary and should be avoided completed), I noticed that I broke the trans cooler connector fitting to the radiator and now the coolant leaks badly from around the fitting. What are my options other than replacing the radiator? Would some liquid metal treatment do the magic? Or is there a way to remove and replace the fitting(I am not sure this would be possible since it looked like the fitting was welded to the radiator)?
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Having problem with oil cooler pump throwing the wrench light? Dealer says it cools the oil and mine could be clogged a bit.. cost of total job around 8-10 k. And take cab off.
It seems when engine gets hot wrench light comes on cause not cooling oil down properly... it overheated. Gauges were very high.. Once when I was in full boost towing a ranger up a hill. First time it ever happened.. pulled over for 5 mins than started temp went back normal and finished tow no problem after that cause I kept boost lower!
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2010 F350 in my shop today. so, before dismantling the entire top of the motor for this inbred oil cooler job, is there anything else responsible for the P012 engine oil temp issue? it throws the wrench icon and cuts power and i pulled the P012F code.
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What's an acceptable GVW value when one is looking to replace the air to oil cooler for this transmission?
2001 F250 CC SB PSD 7.3 Edge
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