Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Traction Control Off / Power Loss On Slightest Turn
Jan 10, 2015
2014 F250 6.2. I turn traction control off while plowing or any winter driving. With it off I can spin rear tires,but as soon as there is the slightest turn in the front wheels its like something takes over. Lose of power and sounds like anti lock brakes kick in. Is this normal. I like to throw in 2wd and spin around while plowing. Also the kid in me has never left and I like to drift in turns. It takes all the fun out of winter driving.
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I have a 2009 f250 with 70,000 miles on it and for the last 6 months I have been experiencing some power loss. It happens every time there is the slightest incline on the road, it has to down shift to 3rd gear just to maintain that speed. If I don't push on the pedal until it down shifts to 3rd I slow down to 40mph no matter what the speed was before I hit the incline/hill. I also went from 14 mpg to 10.5mpg. I have heard so many theories and am curious if the fact I upgraded to 35 inch tires and never updated the trucks computer.
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2014 f250 6.2........today on my way home from work I noticed my traction control symbol was on. It didn't say off under it like it does when you turn it off. About five miles down the road it was gone. What might of caused this?
Another thing I've been wondering is whats up with the carpeted inner fender wells. How long has ford been doing that and how well do they hold up?
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I have a 2012 f250 been in the shop 4 times for the traction control light just coming on randomly and staying on. they have flashed it changed something in the steering column forgot name of that and changed some sensors out. still does it. I think its a bad connection or bare wire is what I keep saying to them cause it only does it on rough roads and when its wet.
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I have an early 1999 f250 diesel. I originally googled having the airbag light on and loss of cruise control and came up with it more than likely being a bad clock spring. So I replaced the clock spring, and it was definitely blown. I have a horn now, not sure if I did before or not, but still the light is on and no cruise control. The airbag light is flashing code 27 which I believe means the passenger airbag has issues.
So I tried turning the key in the switch for the passenger airbag to deactivate it, but it only lets me turn it 45 degrees and no light comes on. It looks like the key should turn 90 degrees but maybe I'm just an idiot. I see a lot of people with the bulbs dying and running into issues but that wouldn't explain the inability to turn the key 90 degrees. Also would the airbag light being on deactivate the cruise or is that just some other issue? For what its worth, I plugged in a code reader and no codes came up, just the flashing airbag light.
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So, all of a sudden, my cruise control won't turn on.
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One of my work trucks is a 99 F-250 5.4L. Up until recently it's been running strong. Then one day it's like someone flipped a switch, and now it runs like it's losing power.
Symptoms: a quick short stumble when you first hit the accelerator. While driving, it takes the entire pedal to accelerate. Even with the pedal to the floor, it won't keep up with traffic. Driving uphill, it will barely maintain 40 mph.
I've checked everything I can think of. Fluids and filters are all good. Battery and alternator are good. There are no trouble codes. I have Autoenginuity with the Ford Bundle, and the truck passes every diagnostic test I throw at it.
There's no smoke. It still idles pretty smooth, although there is a slight and very quick random shudder in the idle that has started at the same time it started losing power.
Transmission is good. The last thing I tried was to change the fuel filter, but that made zero difference. Quick question, does the tank on the 5.4L trucks have a pickup screen like the diesels? If so, I might try blowing some compressed air through the fuel line and see if it dislodges anything.
So that's where I'm at. It has no power, yet I can't find a single thing wrong with it.
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I have a 99 F-250SD with 5.4 automatic that just all of a sudden started running unevenly at random times, but frequently. There is a pending code P0300 Random/multiple cylinder misfire. I have had the truck for 12 years and it has run perfectly for the last 10+ years and just started this problem, it did not come on slowly but all of a sudden. I have seen on here that some people say that 90% of the time a PO300 is a bad cop. I replaced the plugs 60k miles ago when I had a bad coil on plug 10 years ago that did not set any codes, but this seems very different that more than one cylinder seems affected, like maybe 2 or more cylinders are not firing momentarily.
There is a big power loss momentarily while it happens, but doesn't happen for long. The fuel pressure stays pretty constant (30 psi at rail) even while it happens, and it can affect the idle as well as while accelerating or cruising at speed. I cant imagine more than one coil on plug would be skipping at the same times or fail at the exact same time, but maybe having only one bad cop could cause this much hesitation? Does the code that indicates random/multiple cylinder misfire rule out only one bad cop? It just seems like running on 7 cylinders wouldn't be so noticeable. Could a sticking egr valve cause unevenness at idle and higher rpms and set a P0300 code? Would checking manifold vacuum be they way to see if egr valve is not working correctly.
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So I'm not sure if I bought a lemon, but i picked up a F-350 6.4 Turbo Diesel two days ago and the check engine light came on yesterday. It's giving me a P0088 Code as well as the P0088pd. It's got 131,000 miles on it so no warranty will cover me.
I'm tracking the TSB put out telling the techs to replace the HPFP, but they mention a loss of power. I've only had the truck for two days, but I've driven them for work before and I can't detect any loss of power. Besides the code, everything seems to be running fine.
What can I can try out before running out and changing the HPFP? I'd rather not cut so deep into my savings if I don't have to.
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Last night, I left it running while unloading a trailer and come back to notice it was idling abnormal. I jumped in it and tried to move it and there was a noticeable loss of power. I unhooked the trailer and tried to get it home. I only made it 1/2 mile down the road when it started spitting and sputtering (surging ever now and then) to a level that it died completely. I was able to start it back and get it out of the road but had to be pulled into a drive. It got to a point it wouldn't start back at all.
Today it started up however still had a rough idle and really has no power to speak of. The more I messed with it the less power it seem to have.
I have searched the forums and tried these things:
1) Checked the oil and noticed it was on the low end of the operating range. I put some in it to put it back to normal.
2) Disconnected the ICP
3) Changed the crankshaft position sensor
4) I dumped the fuel bowl after it completely died (in case it had any water in the fuel bowl).
The fuel filter was just changed 2 weeks ago. The fuel pump seems to be operating correctly (or it at least refilled the bowl) and started again with a very rough idle.
It doesn't have a engine light on nor do I have anything to read any codes it may be showing.
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I have a 2004 f250 superduty. I lost all electric to truck. No lights, radio, etc. Turn key and no click or dash lights. I put a charger directly to battery and nothing. Is there a main fuse in power line prior to the fuse box under the dash??
Also, right before this happened, I went to start my truck and my batteries were low, the truck turned over a few times, started dying, so I turned the key off, and the truck kept turning over on its own, as if the circuit remained closed for ignition due to low battery, and it turned over by itself until the battery was completely dead. But putting my battery charger on it now gives me no electric at all.
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Got a 2001 7.3 crew cab long bed over the winter and over the last week I have some electrical issues.
Leaving work I had a dead battery(s) or so I though. first though the batteries are going or the alternator going. Its a manual so i had a friend pull me to bump start it and everything was as it should. The volt gauge came right up and checked the alternator and it was OK.
Later on while driving the radio turned off and I could not get it to turn back on. At the time I didn't notice if the other cabin accessories were working
(didn't think to take notice). So, turned around a drove straight home. Once in my drive way I shut the truck off and right away turned it back on and the radio came back. I didn't know what to make of it so I just let it be.
The next morning I went to start the truck, Wait to start light went out and when I turned the key. Just a click. and the instrument panel goes dead along with all the other cabin power. when i open the door the turn signal starts clicking. So I took the batteries out (thinking that something is staying on inside the cabin and draining the batteries). I charged them at work came to find that they are holding a charge.
My issue was most definitely the GEM. So i took that out sent it to Florida and got it serviced. When got it back today and ........Same thing. I am at a loss here. Am in looking at the right things? What should I be looking for?
[URL].....
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Truck is an 02 F250 Automatic 4X4, 7.3 PSD.
Cruise control will turn on, will sometimes set speed and sometimes will not. If it does set and work it may kick off at any second or it may run fine. I have noticed it seems to kick off mainly after going over a slight bump in the highway or it may just kick off for the hell of it. Truck has 50,000 miles on it, I bought it new. Also having trouble with the throttle position sensor, it seems to have a "dead spot" at about 58 mph that shows up when I romp down on the pedal to pass on 2 lane roads. Can these two symptoms be related? Both are very aggravating. FWIW it does have the power adjust pedals. Truck is 100% stock, no power chips or other upgrades.
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Truck sat for 1 1/2 years. Changed filter and put in 15 gallons of fuel. Had maybe 1/2 gallon old fuel in tank. MAYBE. Fixed fuel line because it wasnt getting fuel and it fired right up and idles great.
Truck has no acceleration over 2500 (or so) RPMs but idles fine. This is depending on how hard you push the pedal of course.
If you drive the truck normally like a grandmother it seems to be ok. As long as you dont need a passing gear or need to accelerate more than 1/4 pedal
If you try to push the pedal to get the next higher gear it will sometimes hit the gear fine. IF you floor the truck it will totally lose acceleration. Then the truck will run like crap even slow for a good while. But then it will clear up for the low end. Then you can drive it normally. Then when I think I can test the upper end I get the same thing again.
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I have a 2004 F250 Super duty that had a battery die (I left the keys in the ignition switched on overnight) and after jumping the battery off the vehicle started up but now I have no power door lock or window functions. Any reason a dead battery issue might affect the power locks and windows?
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I bought 08 6.4 113000 on it 4x4 lariet drove 300 miles home. No problem 2 days later runs fine for 45 minutes than loses power and sputters up hills starts no problem every morning every time wait awhile sometimes runs fine was on e when test drove canged both fuel filters oil and drained 8 quarts tranny fluid and replaced it. When problematic rpms wont go over 2 turbo psi seems high seems in sync with rpms dropped...
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2003 F350 6.0L ... 171,000 miles ... 5,100 since oil change 15W-30 at the shop ...
I was driving on the interstate (50 miles of driving) struggling to maintain 70-75 mph at 2,200RPMs. I would accelerate and RPMs would go up to 3,000 but no speed. Before I could pull off speed slowed to 50 before dying. Sat on the side of the road 30 minutes before I could get it started. Had to give it gas. No misfires just quietly started. Couldn't go over 30 mph. Towed it to my destination 135 miles.
Volts on 7Pin FICM read fine.
Checked the fuel fulters. Air Filter. Tank for debris. Nothing.
My coolant reservoir was lose and I noticed a lot of coolant in the driverside front wheel well and down the left side of the undertruck. Reattached after checking FICM. Hope that was all it was cause I couldn't find any leaks.
I had Planned to have the oil changed before the return trip before this all happened. New to Diesel engines but I like a challenge. Where do I go next?
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I am trying to diagnose a problem with a friends 2002 f350 7.3L truck. the engine has approx. 140,000 miles and is all stock, no programming or aftermarket parts. Anyhow, he said driving down the road the other day the engine all of a sudden lost power and the truck wouldn't go any faster than 45mph. he said taking off from a stop sign, the truck has no power and takes forever to get up to 45mph. after this issue began, he has changed the fuel filter & screen, air filter and fuel pump. The check engine light if OFF, no active fault codes.
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On the highway doing 100 mph. during af take over, my Ford F-250 6,4 Super Duty 2008, lost nearly all power. (now it is like driving my old hummer h1)
Engine and car runs/starts great, only 10 minutes uptil 60 mph. now.
My mechanic has given up. He checked following:
EGR = OK
HOSES = OK
ERROR CODES = NONE
INTER COOLER = OK
PARTICLE FILTER CLEAN = OK
TEST WITHOUT EXHAUST = NO DIFFERENCE
FLUIDS = OK
Hopefully something I can fix with my hammer. The car has 85.000 miles on the clock.
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I have an early 03 f350 with a 7.3 liter 298,000 miles on it
Replaced fuel filter
New oil change and filter replacement, New icp sensor .
Deleted the baffle and installed a cone air filter with the air sensor installed in the neck .
I Was driving home one day and the truck just slumped into this huge power loss . Couldn't get over 2200 rpms and barely made it over 30-40 mph.
Truck in park - idles like crap and still won't go over 2200 rpms when holding the pedal to the floor . And it has what sounds like a miss at a struggling "full throttle" (22-2500) rpms - thought it could be my icp sensor - replaced it -- no change
Checked driver side wiring harness -- no damage chafing found -- did a fuel can to pump test no difference - and today after I reinstalled the fuel line right after I ran my can to pump test I let the system prime . Started the truck and it ran for about 40 seconds and died and wound not fire back up and would just miss and spit and sputter -- lots of gray smoke though- but it fired up a few hours later after I let the batteries sit on charger .
Now before all this happened - I noticed the truck had a bit of a gutlessness to it as I would be piddling around around town and it would have this hesitation in power kind of like a slight jerking feeling , now this truck was so gutless since the day I got it ,I couldn't even burn out on a gravel road without the throttle going limp and the check engine.
Light kicking in so I figured I'd give it a bit of hotshots secret and see if It would maybe flush the injectors but it really made no difference...
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I have a 1999 f350 7.3 diesel. If I apply the brakes when I am not moving it is almost impossible to move the steering wheel. I have flushed power steering system. This problem has gotten worse over the corse of owning the truck for the last 10 years. Ball joints and u joints are good. Had to change power steering cooler a few years back, rusted out line, really got gradually from there.
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